the grand canyon of arizona-第41节

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Place　Described　by　Cardenas　Unknown。　There　has　been　some　attempt　on　the　part　of　students　who　are　familiar　with　the　country　to　locate　the　spot　where　Cardenas　and　his　men　gazed　down　into　the　depths　of　the　Canyon　of　the　Colorado　River。　The　long　distance　travelled；　according　to　Castaneda's　narrative；　was　totally　unnecessary　to　bring　the　Spaniards　to　the　banks　of　the　river。　Twenty　days'　journey；　through　a　desert　region；　away　from　Tusayan　in　the　direction　of　the　Colorado　River；　would　have　brought　them　as　far　down　as　Yuma　or　Mohave。　But　at　these　points　there　is　no　canyon。　It　is　well　known　that　the　Canyon　system　terminates　near　the　Great　Bend；　some　miles　beyond　the　Grand　Wash；　hence　this　could　not　have　been　the　objective　point　of　the　guides　of　Cardenas。

Dellenbaugh's　Opinion。　Dellenbaugh；　in　his　〃Romance　of　the　Colorado　River；〃　argues　that　the　Tusayan　of　Castaneda　could　not　have　been　the　land　of　the　Hopis；　for；　as　he　truthfully　remarks；　〃an　able…bodied　man　can　easily　walk　to　the　brink　of　the　Marble　Canyon　from　there　in　three　or　four　days。〃　He　also　says　that　it　has　usually　been　stated；　without　definite　reason；　that　Cardenas　reached　the　Grand　Canyon　about　opposite　Bright　Angel　River；　or　near　the　spot　where　El　Tovar　Hotel　now　stands。　I　have　never　heard　this　statement　made　by　any　one　who　has　any　knowledge　either　of　Castaneda's　narrative；　or　of　the　relative　locations　of　the　Hopi　towns　and　the　Grand　Canyon。

Evidently　a　Hopi　Stratagem。　The　Hopis　of　to…day；　with　whom　I　have　talked；　insist　upon　it　that　Cardenas　was　taken　to　the　barren　and　desolate　point　near　the　junction　of　Marble　Canyon；　the　Little　Colorado　Canyon　and　the　Grand　Canyon。　Here；　the　river　may　be　said　to　come　from　the　northeast　and　turn　toward　the　south…southwest；　and　the　conditions　are　not　at　all　like　those　described　by　the　historian。　But　if　one　accepts　this　modern　statement　of　the　Hopis；　he　is　met　with　the　questions：　Why　make　Cardenas　travel　fifty　leagues　to　see　an　inaccessible　river　that　could　be　reached　in　three　or　four　days？　Did　Cardenas　really　travel　fifty　leagues？　I　do　not　know；　but　I　hazard　the　conjecture　that　the　Hopis　gave　Cardenas　as　much　wandering　about　as　they　could；　took　him　to　this　terribly　bleak　and　barren　spot　where　even　to…day　one　can　scarcely　prevail　upon　a　Hopi　or　Navaho　to　guide　him；　in　order　that　he　might　be　discouraged　from　making　further　explorations　in　the　neighborhood。　The　Hopis　had　no　use　for　explorers　or　strangers。　They　had　suffered　too　much　from　foes；　for　too　many　decades；　to　welcome　any　one　who　seemed　eager　to　possess　anything　of　theirs；　and；　in　my　judgment；　their　treatment　of　Cardenas　was　a　deliberate　ruse　to　get　rid　of　him。　They　had　a　trail　over　which　they　habitually　traveled；　that　brought　them　to　Huetha…wa…li；　the　White　Rock　Mountain；opposite　Bass　Camp；and　on　to　the　Havasupai　villages。　Several　times　a　year　they　went　to　and　fro　over　this　trail。　It　crosses　the　Little　Colorado　where　it　would　have　been　easy　to　show　the　Spaniards　the　Salt　Spring；　to　which　Castaneda　later　refers。　There　is　another　point　on　the　river；　some　miles　beyond　Bass　Camp；　where　the　Hopis　used　to　visit　the　Havasupais；　and　that　is　just　beyond　the　Great　Curve；　where　the　river　may　be　said　to　flow　from　the　northeast　to　the　southsouthwest。　But　both　at　Bass　Camp　and　at　this　point；　the　Havasupais　had　made　trails　down　to　the　river；　of　the　existence　of　which　the　Hopis　may；　or　may　not；　have　known。　So　I　freely　confess　that；　as　yet；　I　have　not　settled　in　my　own　mind　at　what　point　Cardenas　and　the　Spaniards　gazed　into　the　depths　of　the　Great　Canyon。

Alarcon's　Discovery　of　Colorado　River。　While　the　main　portion　of　Coronado's　army　had　been　advancing　eastward；　a　sea　force　sent　out　to　cooperate　with　Coronado；　under　Alarcon；　had　sailed　up　the　Gulf　of　California；　and　had　entered　the　Colorado　River；　thus　solving　the　problem　of　its　exit　into　the　Gulf。　To　Alarcon；　belongs　the　discovery　of　the　Colorado　River；　which　he　named　the　Buena　Guia。　He　went　up　the　river　twice　in　boats；　the　second　time　ascending　possibly　as　high　as　a　hundred　miles　above　the　mouth　of　the　Gila。　Finally　he　entered　〃between　certain　very　high　mountains；　through　which　this　river　passeth　with　a　straight　channel；　and　the　boats　went　up　against　the　stream　very　hardly　for　want　of　men　to　draw　the　same。〃　He　claims　to　have　passed　above　this　place　undoubtedly　one　of　the　lesser　canyons　of　the　Colorado　found　below　the　Needles；　where　the　Santa　Fe　Railway　crosses　the　riverand　here　magicians　tried　to　destroy　him　and　his　party　by　setting　magic　reeds　in　the　water　on　both　sides。　Of　course　this　failed；　but　Alarcon　decided　to　go　no　further。　Here　he　erected　a　very　high　cross；　on　which　was　carved　a　statement　to　the　effect　that　he　had　reached　this　spot；　so　that　if　Coronado's　men　should　find　it；　they　would　know　he　had　ascended　the　river　thus　far。

Town　of　San　Hieronimo　is　Established。　In　the　mean　time；　a　small　force　of　seventy　or　eighty　of　the　weakest　and　least　reliable　of　the　men　of　Coronado's　army　was　left　in　September；　1540；　at　a　town　which　Cabeza　de　Vaca　had　named　Corazones；　or　hearts；　because　the　people　there　fed　him　on　the　hearts　of　animals。　Coronado's　plan　was　to　establish　a　town　here；　which　he　or　his　lieutenant　in　charge　of　this　portion　of　the　army　called　San　Hieronimo　de　los　Corazones。　These　men　and　the　care　of　the　new　settlement　were　left　to　Melchior　Diaz；　with　orders　to　protect　the　road　between　Cibola　and　New　Spain；　and　also　to　attempt　to　find　some　means　of　communicating　with　the　vessels　under　Alarcon。　Diaz；　with　twenty…five　selected　men；　started　for　the　seacoast；　went　to　the　Gulf；　across　to　the　coast；　back　again　up　the　river；　where　he　found　Alarcon's　cross；　and　eventually　returned　to　San　Hieronimo；　there　to　meet　with　death　by　an　accident。　Owing　to　the　habit　of　the　Indians　at　the　lower　portion　of　the　river　of　warming　themselves　in　cold　weather　with　a　burning　stick；　Diaz　called　the　river　El　Rio　del　Tizon　the　River　of　the　Firebrand。

Disaster　Comes　to　the　Spaniards。　Disappointed　at　what　he　had　found　at　Cibola　and　Tiguex；　Coronado　now　decided　to　go　with　his　whole　army　to　a　place　which　had　been　described　to　him　in　most　glowing　terms　by　an　Indian。　He　told　of　a　place　of　fabulous　wealth　named　Quivera；　and；　says　the　ancient　historian：　〃He　gave　such　a　clear　account　of　what　he　told；　as　if　it　was　true　and　he　had　seen　it；　that　it　seemed　plain　afterward　that　the　devil　was　speaking　in　him。〃　Carried　away　by　these　glowing　visions　of　wealth；　Coronado　sent　Tovar　back　to　San　Hieronimo。　Melchior　Diaz　was　dead；　and　the　little　settlement　was　in　an　excitement；　because　one　of　the　soldiers　had　just　been　killed　by　a　poisoned　arrow；　shot　by　one　of　the　natives。　In　trying　to　punish　this　offence；　owing　to　the　folly　of　the　officer　sent　by　Tovar　in　charge　of　the　primitive　force；　seventeen　more　soldiers　were　killed　by　poisoned　arrows；　so　that　the　ensign　hastily　abandoned　the　place；　and　moved　with　his　sadly　reduced　force　forty　leagues　toward　Cibola；　into　a　valley　called　Suya。　From　this　point；　he　ultimately　collected　the　best　of　his　men；　and　marched　on　to　Tiguex；　to　find　Coronado　already　gone　on　his　heartbreaking　expedition　to　Quivera。

Coronado　Returns　to　New　Spain。　After　long　and　fruitless　search；　Coronado　returned　to　New　Spain；　a　disappointed　man；　disgraced　and　discarded。　Tovar　returned　with　him；　but　doubtless　later　found　congenial　work　in　other　fields。



CHAPTER　XXV。　Fray　Marcos　And　Garces；　And　Their　Connection　With　The　Grand　Canyon

Hotel　and　Stations　Named　for　Spanish　Priests。　At　Williams；　the　gateway　to　the　Canyon；　the　Santa　Fe　Railway　Company　recently　has　erected　a　typical　Mission　style　hotel；　to　which　the　name　of　Fray　Marcos　has　been　given。　Here　Canyon　visitors　who　stop　off　between　trains　find　excellent　accommodations。　At　Needles；　California；　on　the　Colorado　River；　is　another　reinforced　concrete　building；　named　after　another　Franciscan　priest；　Francisco　Garces。　Both　Fray　Marcos　and　El　Garces　are　managed　by　Fred　Harvey；　who　also　has　charge　of　El　Tovar　Hotel。　The　history　of　this　part　of　the　Southwest　for　the　last　thirty　years　cannot　be　written　without　mention　of　this　masterful　man；　who　made　railway　meal　service　a　fine　art。　In　accordance　with　a　policy　established　some　time　ago　by　the　Santa　Fe　Company；　the　architecture　of　their　station　hotels　conforms　to　the　Spanish　Mission　styles；　as　far　as　possible；　and　they　are　given　names　of　those　who　are　inseparably　connected　with　the　romantic　history　of　this　region。

Fray　Marcos　Comes　to　America。　In　the　chapter　〃Tovar　and　the　Discovery　of　the　Grand　Canyon；〃　brief　reference　is　made　to　the　reconnaissance　undertaken　by　Fray　Marcos　de　Niza；　a　Franciscan　friar；　to　determine　the　truth　of　the　reports　brought　into　Culiacan　by　Cabeza　de　Vaca。　This　narrative　of　Fray　Marcos　is　taken；　in　the　main；　from　George　Parker　Winship's　introduction　to　his　translation　of　Castaneda's　narrative；　published　in　the　fourteenth　annual　report　of　the　United　States　Bureau　of　Ethnology。　This　friar　was　born　in　Nice；　then　a　part　of　Savoy；　and　he　came　to　America　about　the　year　1531。　His　contemporaries　called　him　a　Frenchman；　though　there　is　no　evidence　that　he　was　of　French　parentage。　He　was　sent　as　one　of　the　religious　to　accompany　Pizarro　on　his　expedition　to　Peru；　and　was　present　at　the　trial　and　execution　of　the　native　king；　Atahualpa。　From　Peru；　he　returned