the grand canyon of arizona-第36节
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g the last dozen years； I can say without hesitation that there are no more startling trails to be found in our Southwest。
Trip from El Tovar。 One of the most enjoyable of the more arduous trips taken by visitors to El Tovar is this trip to Havasu （Cataract） Canyon。 Only those who enjoy a strenuous outing should arrange for this trip； and then plenty of time should be allowed to do it without too great rushing。 The first portion； to the head of the Topocobya Trail； is generally done in a buckboard。 The distance is thirty…five to forty miles； over a varying road；good in places； fair in others； and wretchedly poor now and again。 Arrived at the 〃hill…top；〃 as the Indians call this point； the conveyance must be abandoned； and all the outfit for sleeping； cooking； and eating is transferred to the backs of pack animals； which have been sent on ahead。 The visitors take saddle animals。 There are those who make this drive； and then ride to the village； fifteen miles further down the trail； in one day。 A better plan is either to make 〃dry camp〃 at the head of the Topocobya Trail； or； if time permits； descend to the Topocobya Spring； which flows out of the base of the immense cliff down which one fork of the trail descends。 For there are now two ways of descending at Topocobya；to the right or the left of a mountain which overlooks the Canyon。 The trail by which I first entered Havasu Canyon is the one to the left； looking into the Canyon。
Topocobya Spring。 Arrived at the spring； the stock can be watered； packs removed； beds unrolled； and camp made for the night。 The water； however； is not of the best for drinking purposes； though the Indians habitually use it。
Pictographs。 The following morning an early start may be made； and the winding course of Topocobya Canyon followed to its entrance into the main Havasu Canyon。 Here a number of interesting pictographs may be seen on the wall to the left； reminding one somewhat of those found in Mallery Grotto at El Tovar。
Havasupai Gardens。* Except in the rainy season； the upper portions of the main Havasu Canyon and all its tributaries are dry and sandy。 Just before one reaches the village； however； the barrenness disappears。 A thousand springs appear； and unite to form a stream which； in less than a hundred yards； will measure from four to six feet deep and fully eight feet across。 It is this stream that renders life possible for the Indians。 For the distance of about two miles； the bed of the Canyon； which is here filled with sandy earth； is irrigated from this rapidly flowing stream。 The result is that with comparatively little labor the Havasupais are able to produce excellent crops of corn； beans； chillis； onions； melons； squash and other vegetables。 After the advent of the Spaniards； they obtained peach trees； and they now grow far more peaches than they can eat； drying large quantities； some of which they sell to ranchers； miners and other outsiders。 They also have fine figs。
* Since this chapter was put into type； the Havasupai village has been swept nearly out of existence by a flood。 The winter of agog…igto saw a large fall of snow on the plateau； which； melting suddenly during a hot spell in January； rushed down the Canyon in a body； destroyed the school； agent's house； and took away nearly all the hawas； fields； and orchards of the Indians。 This catastrophe has several times occurred to them （according to their traditions）； so there is little doubt but that they will ere long replant their cornfields and reestablish their homes in the spot they love so well。
The Havasupai 〃Hawa。〃 The house of a Havasupai is called a 〃hawa。〃 It is a primitive structure； generally built of cottonwood poles； willows and earth。 Occasionally one of the leading men will put up a more pretentious home； whose sides will be of matted willows； plastered inside and out with mud； and with a mud…covered roof which will turn the rain。
A Basket…maker's Paradise。 There are about thirty basket…makers among the Havasupais； and specimens of their work may be found in the Hopi House。 As Havasu Creek is lined with willows that are admirably adapted for basket…making； and as an abundant supply of martynia； or cat's…claw； is found on the plateaus above； this Canyon is a veritable basket…makers' paradise。 Their best work is done in the coiled stitch。 The esuwas； or water…bottles； are made out of the twined weave； and then covered with pinion gum。
Beautiful Waterfalls。 Havasu Canyon is interesting； not only on account of its Indians； but because of its narrow walls reaching up to the very heavens and shutting out the sun except for the midday hours； and the beautiful blue water flowing in its willow…fringed bed； which finally dashes in successive leaps into the lower depths； making several cataracts； one of which I regard as the most exquisite waterfall in the world。 As a consequence； it is becoming a great attraction for travelers。
Bridal Veil Falls。 There are five falls in all； occurring in the following order： Havasupai； Navaho； Bridal Veil； Mooney and Beaver。 The last three are the most important。 Bridal Veil is about one hundred and seventy feet high； and five hundred feet broad； but this space is not entirely covered with water。 The edge is so broken that the water dashes over the precipice in a large number of stream and falling upon several different ledges； is again broken into a dashing spray； which； light and feathery； again leaps into the air。 The general effect is indescribably beautiful。
The visitor should not fail to cross the Creek either above or below the Bridal Veil Falls； for on the further side are a number of water concretions well worth seeing。
Mooney Falls。 Mooney Falls； one mile farther down； is a much higher cataract； but the water falls in an undivided stream。 It gets its name from an unfortunate miner； who； in trying to descend a rope ladder to the bottom of the falls； fell； and was dashed to pieces。
Beaver Falls。 Beaver Falls are about four miles farther down the Canyon； and receive their name from the large number of beavers that used to be at work in the stream close by。
By recent survey of this region； it has been found that these falls are not included in the Havasupai reservation。 It is to be hoped； however； that； before it is too late； this Canyon； its waterfalls and surroundings； will be made into a National Park； forever and inalienably to belong to the people。
CHAPTER XXIII。 The First Discoverers And Inhabitants Of The Grand Canyon
A Barren Waste of Rock。 While the Grand Canyon； its vast system of tributaries； and its plateau were being uplifted from the primeval ocean； it consisted of nothing but a wild； barren waste of rock。 Not a tree； not a shrub； not a flower； not a blade of grass relieved the monotony of the wilderness of rocks which emerged from the great Eocene sea。 Not a lizard； horned toad； centipede； tarantula； chuckwalla； campamouche；* frog； tree…toad； turtle or snake was to be found on the long stretching areas of its lifeless shores。 Not a chipmunk； prairie…dog； coyote； rat； mouse； porcupine； fox； bear； mountain…lion； badger； deer； antelope or other four…footed creature ran over its new…born surfaces。 The sun shone unhindered； the rain beat with pitiless fury； the winds swept unhampered； the snows piled up undeterred over the whole plateau and canyon country。 It was plateau and canyon； canyon and plateau； red rock； gray rock； creamy rock； yellow； pink； blue； chocolate； carmine； crimson rock； soft rock； hard rock； sunshine； shadow； wind and quietude； winter； summer； autumn； spring…and that was all！ A lifeless world； as yet unprepared for insect； reptile； beast； man； flower or tree。 Perhaps a solitary sea…bird with strong pinion flew over it； and gazed into its lifeless depths with wonder； or a dove flew from some earlier and habitable land over this wonderful mass of rock； and returned to its nest and its mate。 But no olive or other leaf was in its bill。
*An insect that looks like a tiny dried wisp of hay； well…known in Arizona。
And so the land was born； and rested； while silence； sunshine and solitude brooded over it。
Creation of Soil and Verdure。 But in the course of ages； soil was created by the disintegration of the rocks by the weather and the atmosphere； seeds were blown in from regions where flowers and plants bloomed； or were carried in by birds； and later distributed by the four…footed creatures。 Then verdure sprang into life； the gentle grasses and flowers began to cover the slopes and level places where soil had gathered； and the trees came to sway and swing in the breezes； and sing their songs of coming life to the hitherto barren rocks。
Fossils of Sea Creatures。 Yet they had not been altogether lifeless。 Many of the rocks had known life； but it was not insect； reptile； bird； beast or man life； neither did they known anything of grass； flower； shrub or tree life。 In the far…away ages； when they were being deposited deep under the surface of the Eocene sea； they saw vast monsters floating in the salty deep； and later； fishes of all sizes； and even great beds of waving sea…moss and ferns floated back and forth； as the tides ebbed and flowed。 And fishes and ferns； monsters and moss were occasionally caught in the flow
