the grand canyon of arizona-第3节
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ached the spot they put forth their hands and found〃an absolute end。 We clutched vainly at black space。 To fathom this space we thrust over a big stone。 No sound came back。 The pit was bottomlessthe grave of the world。 The mystery fascinated； the void beckoned。 We scarcely knew why we did not obey the summonswhy we did not abandon the present； and； by following the big stone； escape to the future。〃 And yet he had no urgent creditors bothering him。 His financial position was secure and unquestioned。 His family relations were all that could be desired。 Wonderful； indeed； that a mere feature of natural scenery could have led him to wonder why he didn't leave all the luxuries and certainties of life； and leap into the unknown future！ Yet that is just the way the Canyon affected a sober business man of steady judgment。
A well…known writer declares： 〃It is a paradox of chaos and repose； of gloom and radiance； of immeasurable desolation and enthralling beauty。 It is a despair and a joy； a woe and an ecstasy； a requiem and a hallelujah； a world…ruin and a world…gloryeverything in antithesis of such titanic sort。〃 I agree with him； and regard his expressions as indicative of my own sensations。
Yet； when a reverend gentleman calls it a 〃delirium of nature；〃 I cannot agree with him。 The delirium might be in his own mind； but there is no delirium here。 Neither does it seem to me that a certain university president expresses things with any more wisdom or effectiveness； when he says that it 〃impressed him with its infinite laziness。〃 Lazy？ When once； in the far…distant past； after rising from the primeval sea； it sank back again and deposited twelve thousand feet of strata； then lifted them out into the sunshine； carved eleven thousand feet of them away； and sent them dashing down the river to fill up the Gulf of California and make the Mohave and Colorado Deserts？ Lazy？ When； after that was done； it sank again； and allowed a thousand feet of Cambrian to be deposited； then two thousand feet of Carboniferous； then Permian； Triassic； Jurassic and Cretaceous； until the three thousand feet were increased to two miles of deposits。 Then it began to lift itself up again。 Lazy？ When lifting up two miles' thickness of strata for the clouds and their children to carve away？ And it lifted and lifted； until it destroyed a vast Eocene lake； which covered as large an area as perhaps half a dozen Eastern States； and at the same time carried away about twelve thousand feet of strata。 Lazy？ When you consider that from north to south； for a hundred or more miles； the whole region has been heaving and tossing； curving and buckling； arching and crumpling its strata； faulting by rising； faulting by sinking； until the geologist who would study the faults finds； in the area of one half…mile； near the mouth of Shinumo Creek； his work for a lifetime cut out for him。
No！ No！ Mr。 College President！ You must look more fully。 You must guess again！ The Canyon is not lazy。 It is merely a gigantic natural representation of yourself。 You are the embodiment of energy of body； mind and soul； yet you are never seen hurried or disturbed。 You have the serenity of genius。 So with the Canyon。 It has done and is doing great things。 It has been a persistent worker during the millions of years of its existence； but it has the calm serenity of consciousness of strength。 What you took to be laziness is the restfulness of divine power。
When First Seen。 These are some of the effects the Canyon has upon men。 I once walked up to the rim with a lawyer； who to…day is one of the foremost figures of the San Francisco bar； a man of lion…like courage and almost reckless bravery。 At the first glimpse he fell on his knees； clasped me around mine； and begged me to take him away； declaring that a gift of all Arizona would not lead him to take another glimpse into its awesome depths。
I know of one lady who； for weeks afterwards； would wake up almost every night； and feel herself falling into the fathomless gorge。
Yet the next day the lawyer went with me down to the river； and to this day declares it was the 〃most memorable trip of his life；〃 while the timid lady； to my own knowledge； has made over five trips to the Canyon。
Those of less susceptible nerves cannot conceive the effect the first sight of the Canyon produces upon such supersensitive natures as these to which I have referred。 I have seen strong men fall upon their knees。 I have seen women； driven up to the rim unexpectedly； lean away from the Canyon； the whole countenance an index of the terror felt within； gasp for breath； and though almost paralyzed by their dread of the indescribable abyss； refuse either to close their eyes or turn them away from it。 Some few remain away for a day or two until their nerves become more steady。 Yet I have never known one of these susceptible observers； these keenly sensitive natures that； on due consideration； has not been thankful for the experience； and in every case has either returned to fully enjoy the Canyon； or has longed to do so。
But； you ask； what is the Canyon for？ The answer is simple； and reveals a very humble task as the main work of this vast and gorgeously…colored abyss。 It merely acts as the home of a great river； that for hundreds of miles does not serve a single useful purpose to man。
Yet purely material uses are of the lowest kind。 The Grand Canyon has a far higher mission than that I have spoken of； and others that are suggested in various chapters of this book。 The Grand Canyon is God's greatest gift of His material handiwork in visible form on our earth。 It is an expression of His divine thought； it is a manifestation of His divine love。 It is a link； a wonderful connecting link； between the human and the Divine； between man and his Great Creator； his Loving Father； Almighty God。
CHAPTER II。 On The Grand Canyon Railway To El Tovar
History of the Grand Canyon Railway。 The Grand Canyon Railway leaves the main line of the Santa Fe at Williams； Arizona。 It is an integral part of the Atchison； Topeka and Santa Fe Railway System； that operates its own lines between Chicago； Los Angeles and San Francisco。
Though surveys had been made years ago from Ash Fork； Williams and Flagstaff； it was left for the Tusayan Development Company of New York； who owned a group of copper mines located twenty miles south of the head of Bright Angel Trail； actually to build the railway part way to the Canyon。 It was later extended to the rim by the Santa Fe； and afterwards practically rebuilt。 The original purpose was to reach the mines referred to and convey the ore to Williams； where the smelter then erected is to be seen on the hillside east of the town。
The promoter of the mines and railway was 〃Bucky〃 O'Neill； a prominent Arizona citizen； at one time mayor of Prescott； who became world…famous by his tragic death during the charge of the Rough Riders at San Juan Hill。
The First Four Miles。 Striking due north； the railway passes over masses of malapais； or lava float； until； four miles out； it crosses Havasu （Cataract） Creek。 If the rains are just over； the rough rocks will be entirely covered and hidden by a gorgeous growth of sunflowers and lupines； the yellows and purples making a carpet that； in the brilliant sunlight； fairly dazzles the eye。 Here and there a band of sheep may be seen； with straggling herds of cattle and horses。 In the winter time it is not unusual to find snow covering the plateau； for it must not be forgotten that it has an elevation of nearly seven thousand feet。 During the early summer； before the rains； it is often barren and desolate。
Yet at all seasons the slopes of Williams Mountain are charming and beautiful。 The tender and vivid tones of the evergreen trees that cover it render it a restful and attractive feature of the landscape。
Havasu Creek。 Havasu Creek flows above ground for several miles； then disappears to make a subterranean stream； which finally emerges in wonderful volume； in a thousand springs； in the heart of Havasu Canyon； just above the village of the Indians of the same name。 Crossing it； four miles from Williams； the railway enters a belt of cedars and junipers； passes Red Lake；a volcanic sink…hole； which； at rare intervals； is filled with water。
Deer and Antelope。 For a dozen miles the road passes through a series of charming parks； where deer and antelope are sometimes seen。 While driving his train through one of these parks； early in December； 1907； S。 O。 Miller； one of the engineers of the Grand Canyon Railway； saw a majestic black…tailed deer running a little ahead of his engine。 Suddenly the beautiful creature turned； tried to cross the track； and was instantly killed。 Stopping the train； Miller got help； and it took four men to lift the dead animal and place it on the engine。 The skin and head were mounted。 The animal is so perfect and royal a specimen that the owner says a thousand dollars could not purchase it from him。
Miller rather enjoys the distinction of being the only known deer hunter of the West who has chased his game and killed it with a locomotive。
Surrounding Mountains。 One should not fail to look back； as the train journeys along； for fine； full views of the Volcanic Mountains；the San Fran
