the grand canyon of arizona-第27节

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The　Havasupais。　The　Havasupais　are　of　still　another　stock。　They　belong　to　the　Yuman　family；　and　are　kin　to　the　Wallapais；　the　Mohaves；　Yumas　and　Cocopahs　of　the　Colorado　River。

Comparison　of　Three　Races。　In　appearance；　the　Hopi　and　Havasupai　are　more　alike　than　either　are　like　to　the　Navaho。　As　a　rule；　the　Hopi　is　well　built　and　stalwart；　with　the　unmistakable　Indian　face；　but　with　less　coarse　and　sensual　lips；　higher　and　more　intellectual　brow；　more　alert　and　kindly　eye；　and　stronger　chin　than　the　Havasupai。　The　lobes　of　the　nostril　are　wide　and　flexible；　showing　the　wonderful　lung　power　of　this　great　running　people。

The　Navaho　shows；　in　the　build　of　his　flexible　body；　that　he　is　a　horseman；　a　rider。　His　face　is　one　of　the　strongest　of　Indian　types；　and　is　distinctive　and　easily　recognizable；　as　a　rule。　With　high　cheek　bones；　strong　square　jaws；　flexible；　thin　lips；　large；　limpid　eyes　and　expansive　brows；　the　tribe　shows　a　high　order　of　intelligence；　and　while　at　rest；　their　faces　are　kindly　and　inviting。　There　is　a　flash　in　the　eye　when　aroused　that　denotes　great　pride；　absolute　fearlessness　and　hatred　of　control。　It　is　a　race　of　warriors；　a　race　that　for　two　centuries　harried　the　Spaniards　as　well　as　the　gentle　Hopi；　whom　they　regarded　as　their　legitimate　prey。

Costumes　of　Hopi　Men。　In　dress；　these　three　peoples　are　distinctive；　though　in　these　days　of　part　civilization　and　close　contact　with　the　whites；　the　true　Indian　costume　is　being　discarded　for　the　conventional　dress　of　the　latter。　The　Hopi　men　generally　wear　the　true　pueblo　costume。　In　olden　days；　it　was　the　buckskin　shirt　and　trousers；　with　a　blanket　over　all。　Now；　the　trousers　are　generally　of　white　calico；　with　a　slit　on　the　sides　from　the　knee　down。　A　calico　shirt　is　worn。　The　stockings　are　of　blue　wool；　without　feet。　Moccasins；　with　a　sole　of　thick　rawhide　and　uppers　of　dressed　buckskin；　are　worn。　The　invariable　silk　handkerchief；　or　red　bandana　〃bands〃　surrounds　the　hair；　which　is　cut　long；　generally　long　enough　barely　to　reach　the　shoulders。

Costumes　of　Hopi　Women。　The　women's　native　dress　is　most　picturesque；　and　far　more　adhered　to　than　that　of　the　men。　The　main　dress　is　a　welt…woven　blanket　of　deep　blue；　sometimes　with　slight　red　decoration；　which　is　fastened　over　the　left　shoulder　and　down　the　left　side。　The　right　shoulder　is　left　bare；　unless；　as　invariably　is　the　case　with　the　Indians　who　associate　much　with　the　whites；　a　light　calico　shirt　is　worn　under　the　dress。　It　reaches　to　below　the　knees；　and　is　encircled　around　the　waist　by　a　broad　home…woven　sash；　which　is　wrapped　two　or　three　times　around　the　body；　and　has　the　end　carelessly　tucked　in。　The　feet　are　covered　with　moccasins；　to　which　are　attached　swathings　of　buckskin；　which　are　wrapped　around　and　around　the　legs；　until　they　are　as　large　as　ordinary　sized　stovepipes。　The　hair　is　worn　in　peculiar　fashion；　that　symbolizes　the　social　condition　of　the　wearer。　At　puberty　a　maiden　is　required　by　the　inflexible　rule　of　the　tribe　to　dress　her　hair　in　two　great　whorlsone　over　each　earcalled　〃nashmi。〃　These　are　in　imitation　of　the　squash　blossom；　which　is　the　Hopi　symbol　of　maidenhood　and　purity。　When　she　marries；　she　must　change　the　fashion　of　dressing　the　hair　into　two　pendant　rolls；　in　imitation　of　the　fruit　of　the　squash；　which　is　their　emblem　or　symbol　for　matronhood　and　chastity。

Navaho　Men's　Costumes。　The　old　time　Navaho　men　wear　the　white　calico　trousers；　slit　up　the　side；　and　a　shirt；　either　of　colored　calico　or　of　some　kind　of　velvet　cloth。　On　the　feet　are　moccasins；　and　the　stockings　are　the　same　footless　kind　as　worn　by　the　Hopi；　fastened　below　the　knee　with　a　wide　garter。　This　is　made　in　the　same　style　as　the　sashes　which　the　Hopi　and　Navaho　women　wear　around　their　waists；　but　is　neither　so　broad　nor　so　long。　The　hair　is　either　allowed　to　flow　loosely　over　the　shoulders；　or　is　arranged　in　a　kind　of　square　knot　at　the　back　of　the　head。　As　a　basis　for　this　knot；　a　hairpin　made　of　bone；　from　three　to　five　inches　long；　smoothed　almost　flat；　with　beveled　or　rounded　edges；　and　often　rudely　carved；　is　used。　Around　this　knot　a　sash　similar　to　a　garter　is　generally　wrapped　to　secure　it。　The　universal　bands　is　worn　around　the　head　to　help　bind　the　hair；　and　keep　it　away　from　the　forehead。

Navaho　Women's　Costume。　The　women　wear　a　brown；　green；　or　red　velvet　shirt；　with　a　〃squaw　dress〃　beautifully　woven　of　deep　blue　cotton；　with　a　conventionally　designed　red　border。　Around　the　waist　the　wide　sash；　before　described；　is　wound。　This　dress　is　both　skirt　and　waist；　but　of　late　years　those　women　who　live　in　or　near　our　civilization　discard　their　native　dress；　and　wear　a　skirt　of　calico；　with　the　velvet　shirt。

The　Havasupai　Dress。　The　Havasupai　men　and　women　now　wear　as　near　the　conventional　dress　of　our　race　as　their　means　will　allow。　When　I　first　knew　them；　the　men　seldom　wore　more　than　a　pair　of　moccasins　and　a　breechcloth　in　summer；　with　buckskin　shirt　and　trousers；　and　a　Navaho　blanket　over　the　shoulders　in　winter。　The　conventional　dress　of　the　women　at　that　time　was　a　skirt　made　of　shredded　cedar　bark；　which　was　suspended　from　the　waist　to　below　the　knees；　without　shirt　or　shirt…waist。　In　winter；　a　Navaho　blanket　was　worn　over　the　shoulders。　Both　men　and　women　still　wear　the　inevitable　moccasins；　though　the　〃civilized〃　members　of　the　tribe　buy　their　shoes　at　the　white　man's　store　in　Williams；　Ash　Fork　or　Seligman。　The　women　generally　bang　their　hair　across；　about　the　center　of　the　forehead；　and　then　allow　the　rest　of　the　hair　to　hang　loose。　It　is　a　great　insult　to　a　Havasupai　woman　to　ask　her　to　throw　back　her　hair　from　her　cheeks；　and　to　do　it　oneself　is　a　serious　offense。

Language。　In　language；　these　people　are　as　different　one　from　another　as　are　the　Turks；　the　Esquimaux　and　the　French。　Even　in　the　simplest　words　these　differences　are　marked。　Take　a　few　comparisons。　For　good　the　Hopi　says　lolomai；　the　Navaho　yatehay　and　the　Havasupai　harnegie。　Bad　in　Hopi　is　ka…lolomai　（not　good）；　Navaho　da　shonda　（of　the　evil　one）；　Havasupai　han…a…to…opo…gi。



CHAPTER　XVII。　The　Navaho　And　Hopi　Blanket　Weavers

What　a　marvelous　art　is　that　of　weaving；　and　how　much　the　human　race　of　today　owes　to　the　patient　endeavors　of　the　〃little　brown　woman〃　of　the　past　for　the　perfection　to　which　she　brought　this；one　of　the　most　primitive　of　the　arts。

Blanketry　was　a　necessary　outcome　of　basketry。　The　use　of　flexible　twigs　for　baskets　readily　suggested　the　use　of　pliable　fibres　for　textiles；　and　there　is　little　question　that　almost　simultaneously　with　the　first　rude　baskets　the　first　textile　fabrics　made　their　appearance。

Whence　the　art　had　its　origin　we　do　not　know。　But　it　is　a　matter　of　record　that　in　this　country；　three　hundred　and　fifty　years　ago；　when　the　Spanish　first　came　into　what　is　now　United　States　territory；　they　found　the　art　of　weaving　in　a　well　advanced　stage　among　the　domestic　and　sedentary　Pueblo　Indians；　and　the　wild　and　nomadic　Navahos。　Scientists　who　have　given　the　question　careful　study；　hold　that　the　cotton　of　these　blankets　was　grown　by　these　Arizona　Indians　from　time　immemorial；　and　they　also　used　the　tough　fibres　of　the　yucca　and　agave　leaves　and　the　hairs　of　various　wild　animals；　either　separately　or　with　the　cotton。　Their　processes　of　weaving　were　exactly　the　same　then　as　they　are　today；　there　being　but　slight　difference　between　the　methods　followed　before　the　advent　of　the　whites　and　afterward。　Hence；　in　a　study　of　the　Indian　blanket；　as　it　is　made　today；　we　are　approximately　nearly　to　the　pure　aboriginal　method　of　pre…Columbian　times。

Archeologists　and　ethnologists　generally　assume　that　the　art　of　weaving　on　the　loom　was　learned　by　the　Navahos　from　their　Pueblo　neighbors。　All　the　facts　in　the　case　seem　to　bear　out　this　supposition。　Yet；　as　is　well　known；　the　Navahos　are　a　part　of　the　great　Athabascan　family；　which　has　scattered；　by　separate　migrations；　from　Alaska　into　California；　Arizona　and　New　Mexico。　Many　of　the　Alaskans　are　good　weavers；　and　according　to　Navaho　traditions；　their　ancestors；　when　they　came　into　the　country；　wore　blankets　that　were　made　of　cedar　bark　and　yucca　fibre。　Even　in　the　Alaska　（Thlinket）　blankets；　made　today　of　the　wool　of　the　white　mountain　goat；　cedar　bark　is　twisted　in　with　the　wool　of　the　warp。　Why；　then；　should　not　the　Navaho　woman　have　brought　the　art　of　weaving；　possibly　in　a　very　primitive　stage；　from　her　original　Alaskan　home？　That　her　art；　however；　has　been　improved　by　her　contact　with　the　Pueblo　and　other　Indians；　there　can　be　no　question；　and；　if　she　had　a　crude　loom；　it　was　speedily　replaced　by　the　one　so　long　used　by　the　Pueblo。　Where　the　Pueblo　weaver　gained　her　loom　we　do　not　know；　whether　from　the　tribes　of　the　South　or　by　her　own　invention。　But　in　all　practical　ways　the　primitive　loom　was　as　complete　and　perfect　at　the　time　of　the　Spanish　conquest　as　it　is　today。

Any　loom；　to　be　complete；　must　possess　certain　qualifications。　As　Dr。　Mason　has　well　said：　〃In　any　style　of　mechanical　weaving；　however　simple　or　complex；　even　in　darning；　the　following　operations　are　performed：　First；　raising　and　lowering　alternately　different　sets　of　warp　filaments　to　form　the　'sheds'；　second；　throwing　the　shuttle；　or　performing　some　operation　that　a