the grand canyon of arizona-第12节

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to　the　chat　of　the　miners　and　guide；　hear　them　recount　some　of　their　thrilling　and　exciting　experiences；　enjoy　their　singing　of　old…time　melodies；　with　a　peculiar　western　flavor　to　them；　and　then　roll　over　to　dreamless　sleep。

Copper　Mines。　Half　a　day　can　be　well　spent　on　the　morrow　in　the　mines；　and　one　is　surprised　to　find　here　over　half　a　mile　of　tunnels　and　shafts；　with　workings　on　seven　levels；　and　ore　so　rich　that　under　usual　conditions　it　pays　to　mine；　sort；　pack　on　mules　three　miles　or　a　little　more　to　the　rim；　place　in　wagons；　haul　some　fifteen　or　twenty　miles　to　Apex；　load　on　railway　cars　and　shippaying　full　freight；　of　courseabout　six　hundred　and　eighty　miles　to　El　Paso；　Texas；　where　it　is　〃milled；〃　and　the　copper；　silver　and　gold　extracted。　These　various　processes　are　expensive。　It　costs　to　buy　grain　in　Flagstaff；　or　Phoenix；　and　pay　freight　on　it　to　Apex；　and　then　haul　it　to　the　head　of　the　trail；　and　thence　to　the　stables　on　the　plateau　near　the　mine。　Hay；　too；　has　to　come　just　as　far。　Every　pound　of　the　provisions　used　by　the　men　has　to　be　hauled　in　similar　fashion　over　railroad；　wagon　road　and　canyon　trail。　Every　pick；　shovel；　piece　of　iron　or　woodwork；　every　pound　of　powder；　dynamite　and　fuse；　every　box　of　candles　has　to　pay　toll　in　like　fashion；　before　it　can　be　used　in　the　mine。　So　we　are　not　surprised　to　learn　that　the　ore　is　rich；　the　first　thousand　tons　mined　going　as　high　as　thirty　percent　in　copper；　with　several　ounces　of　silver　to　the　ton；　and　small　but　appreciable　and　valuable　traces　of　gold。　（At　the　time　of　this　writing；　the　mines　are　temporarily　shut　down。）

To　the　Old　Hance　Trail。　The　mouth　of　the　mine　enters　the　face　of　the　cliff　to　the　east；　and　overlooks　the　trail　down　which　we　descend　into　Hance　Creek；　where　the　old　Hance　Trail　to　the　river　used　to　be。　It　is　an　old　friend；　for　we　have　been　down　it　more　times　than　once；　and　can　recall　every　feature。　We　rest　awhile　here；　in　order　to　go　down　to　the　place　where　the　side　canyon　through　which　the　creek　flows　〃narrows　up。〃　We　pass　through；　and　on　the　other　side　stand　before　the　shattered　Tonto　sandstones　that　Thomas　Moran；　years　ago；　named　the　Temple　of　Set；　and　even　further　on；　where　we　used　to　leave　the　horses　and　climb　down　a　boulder；　and　up　the　face　of　the　cliff；　and　down　the　rope　ladder　over　the　archaean　rockshere　a　crystalline　mica　schistand　so　on；　all　the　way　to　the　river。　So　another　day　passes；　and　we　stretch　out　our　blankets；　and　sleep　on　the　very　ledge　on　which　we　bunked　years　and　years　ago；　when　we　made　our　first　descent　and　camp　in　this　canyon。

Red　Canyon　Trail。　The　next　day　we　are　ready　to　continue　on　to　the　west。　We　climb　out　of　Hance　Canyon；　and　cross　the　ridge　into　Mineral　Canyon；　ascend　again；　cross　another　ridge；　and　find　ourselves　in　that　wonderland　of　the　geologist；　the　Red　Canyon　Trail。

What　do　I　mean　by　the　Wonderland　of　the　Geologist？　Ask　of　these　tilted　strata　of　red　rock；　that　give　the　canyon　its　name；　that　the　men　wise　in　rocks　call　the　non…conformable　Algonkian　strata！　Ask　of　the　folds；　or；　flexures；　in　the　strata；　which　the　untrained　eye　can　readily　discern！

The　Algonkian。　This　is　one　of　the　spots　that　all　geologistsfrom　every　part　of　the　civilized　worldaim　for。　They　know　it　is　one　of　the　rare　things　of　the　known　world；　and　they　come　here　to　see　it。　So　make　yourself　as　wise　as　you　can　while　you　are　here　and　have　the　chance。　Read　Dr。　Walcott's　monograph　from　the　fourteenth　report　of　the　United　States　Geological　Survey；　Volume　No。　2；　entitled　〃Pre…Cambrian　Igneous　Rocks　of　the　Unkar　Terrane。〃　Then　read　Major　Powell's　luminous　earlier　descriptions　of　these　rocks　in　his　〃Explorations　of　the　Colorado　River　of　the　West。〃　Learn　from　their　own　words　what　these　geological　masters　say　of　these　wonderful　five　hundred　feet　thick　remnants　of　twelve　thousand　feet　of　strata　that　were　once　piled　here　above　the　archaean　rocks。　Imagine　over　two　miles　of　strata　thrust　up　into　the　air；　and　then　pay　strict　attention　as　the　scientists　reason　out　their　conclusions　as　to　the　how；　why；　where；　and　whence　of　the　eleven　thousand　five　hundred　feet　of　washed　away　strata。

Asbestos　Mines。　If　your　guide　knows　how　to　compass　it；　cross　the　river　here　at　the　foot　of　the　Red　Canyon　Trail；　and　visit　the　asbestos　mines　of　the　Hance　Asbestos　Mining　Company　of　New　York。　Try　to　comprehend　what　asbestos　is；　how　it　is　formed。　See　where　it　is　located　in　these　much　burnt　and　much　twisted　strata。

If　possible；　go　up　and　down　the　river；　and　see　where　the　Inner　Gorgethe　granite　or　gneissreally　begins。　It　is　not　so　very　far　away。

Then；　when　you　are　ready；　watch　the　guide　adjust　the　much…lightened　pack；　for　the　supply　of　〃grub〃　is　getting　low；　perhaps　assist　him　swing　the　packs　on　the　packsaddle；　put　on　the　canvas　covering　and　throw　the　〃diamond　hitch；〃　and　then　saddle　your　own　horsefor　by　now　you　will　have　begun　to　feel　some　confidence　and　pride　in　doing　things　that　the　〃tenderfoot〃　generally　leaves　to　the　guideand　soon　you　are　climbing　up　the　trail　on　your　way　to　the　rim。　As　soon　as　you　are　on　〃top；〃　you　〃push　on〃　the　pack　animals　and　〃hit　the　trail　hard〃　by　way　of　Hance's　Ranch；　now　owned　by　Martin　Buggel；　to　Grand　View；　and　over　the　familiar　road　back　to　El　Tovar。

Eastern　Points。　Or；　before　returning；　one　day　or　several　more　days　can　be　spent　in　visiting　the　salient　promontoriesMoran；　Zuni；　Papago；　Pinal　and　Lipan　Pointsand　then　descending　the　most　eastern　trail　of　the　Grand　Canyon；　known　as　the　Tanner…French　Trail。

Imagine　the　gain　after　such　a　trip。　Count　up　the　store　of　knowledge　acquired；　the　health；　vim；　vigor　added　to　one's　store；　the　capacity　for　energetic　life　developed；　the　experiences　accumulated；　the　hardships　laughed　at　and　overcome；　and　then　tell　me　whether　any　similar　outlay　of　cash　elsewhere　can　produce　equal　benefits　in　results。

This　is　but　one　of　many　such　trips　which　I　will　now　briefly　and　succinctly　name；　each　one　of　which　is　different　from　every　other　one。

To　Havasu　Canyon。　One；　two；　or　three　weeks　（or　more）　can　profitably　be　spent　in　going　westward　（twenty…five　miles）　over　the　Topocobya　Road　to　the　head　of　the　Topocobya　Trail　into　Havasu　（Cataract）　Canyon。　This　is　a　drive　of　forty　miles。　Camp　over　night　there；　and　then　descend　in　the　cool　of　the　morning　down　either　arm　of　this　stupendous　cliff　（see　chapter　on　Havasu　Canyon）　to　Topocobya　Spring；　and　on　down　the　wash　into　Havasu　Canyon；　fifteen　miles　or　so　to　the　Havasupai　village。

Camp　near；　or　in；　one　of　the　fields　of　the　Indians；　where　good　alfalfa　can　be　purchased　for　the　animals　and　fresh　vegetables　and　fruit　（in　season）　for　one's　own　use。　If　you　are　not　too　squeamish　to　see　aboriginal　man　in　his　primitive　dirt；　study　him　in　his　home。　Try　to　learn　to　look　at　things　from　his　standpoint。　If　possible；　witness　one　of　his　dancesa　religious　ceremonyand　arrange　to　enter　his　primitive　toholwoh　or　sweat…house；　where　he　will　give　you　a　most　effective　and　powerful　Russo…Turkish　bath。　Swim　in　Havasu　Creek　to　your　heart's　content；　several　times　a　day。　Climb　to　the　old　fort；　where　the　Havasupais　used　to　retire　to　defend　themselves　when　pressed　too　closely　by　their　hereditary　foes；　the　Apaches。　Listen　to　the　stones；　the　legends；　the　myths　about　the　stone　figures　your　eye　cannot　fail　to　see　soon　after　you　reach　the　village；　which　command　the　widest　part　of　the　Canyon；　where　the　Indians　live；　and　which　are　called　by　them　Hue…puk…eh…eh　and　Hue…gli…i…wa。　Get　one　of　the　storytellers　to　recite　to　you　the　deeds　of　Tochopa；　their　good　god；　and　Hokomata；　their　bad　god；　and　ask　them　for　the　wonderfully　fascinating　legend　of　the　mother　of　their　tribethe　daughter　of　Tochopa；　from　whom　the　whole　human　race　descended。　Ask　one　of　the　old　men　to　tell　you　the　stories　of　some　of　their　conflicts　with　the　Apaches；　and　why　Tochopa　placed　the　Hue…gli…i…wa　in　so　prominent　and　salient　a　position。　If　you　desire　something　of　a　different　nature；　engage　some　of　the　younger　men　to　get　up　a　horse　race。　The　wise　and　judicious　expenditure　of　a　few　dollars　will　generally　produce　the　desired　effect。

Then；　when　you　are　ready　to　travel　again；　get　a　Havasupai　to　guide　youno　one　else　canup　to　the　fascinating　spring　called　Pack…a…tha…true…ye…ba；　or　to　some　of　their　side　canyons　where　cliff…dwellings；　corn…storage　houses　and　pictographs　abound。

Bridal　Veil　Falls。　On　your　return；　descend　to　Bridal　Veil　Falls；　and　see　where　a　capitalist　spent　many　thousands　of　dollars　in　unnecessary　work　because　he　had　been　deluded　into　the　belief　that　platinum　existed　here。　Then　forget　men　and　their　mad　search　for　gold；　and　stand　reverent　before　a　secret　shrine　of　beauty　incomparablethis　exquisite　fall　in　its　majestic　setting。　A　day　or　more　can　be　well　spent　here；　and　yet　not　exhaust　the　delight　of　this　one　fall。　There　are　four　ways　of　approach　to　it　from　the　village　above。　Go　over　them　all；　as　each　has　its　own　peculiar　charm。　Then　strike　off　down　the　Canyon　to　Mooney　Falls；　and　hear　the　story；　as　you　cross　and　recross　Havasu　Creek；　of　the　poor　miner　who　was　killed　here　and　from　whom　the　fall　obtains　its　name。　And　finally；　follow　the　winding　of　the　pellucid　stream　until　it　is　ejected　through　a　narrow　passageway　into　the　turbulent　Colorado。

Cushing's　Story　of　the　Havasupais。　On　returning　from　the　Havasupai　village；　come　out　by　the　Walla