the ways of men(人们的手段)-第37节
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know the greatest happiness that can come into a woman's life； that of
rising at her husband's side； step by step； enjoying his triumphs as she
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shared his poverty。
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CHAPTER 25 … La Comedie
Francaise a Orange
IDLING up through the south of France； in company with a
passionate lover of that fair land； we learned on arriving at Lyons； that the
actors of the Comedie Francaise were to pass through there the next day；
EN ROUTE for Orange； where a series of fetes had been arranged by 〃Les
Felibres。〃 This society； composed of the writers and poets of Provence；
have the preservation of the Roman theatre at Orange （perhaps the most
perfect specimen of classical theatrical architecture in existence）
profoundly at heart； their hope being to restore some of its pristine beauty
to the ruin； and give from time to time performances of the Greek
masterpieces on its disused stage。
The money obtained by these representations will be spent in the
restoration of the theatre； and it is expected in time to make Orange the
centre of classic drama； as Beyreuth is that of Wagnerian music。
At Lyons； the CORTEGE was to leave the Paris train and take boats
down the Rhone； to their destination。 Their programme was so tempting
that the offer of places in one of the craft was enough to lure us away from
our prearranged route。
By eight o'clock the following morning； we were on foot； as was
apparently the entire city。 A cannon fired from Fort Lamothe gave the
signal of our start。 The river； covered with a thousand gayly decorated
craft； glinted and glittered in the morning light。 It world be difficult to
forget that scene； … the banks of the Rhone were lined with the rural
population； who had come miles in every direction to acclaim the passage
of their poets。
Everywhere along our route the houses were gayly decorated and
arches of flowers had been erected。 We float past Vienne； a city once
governed by Pontius Pilate； and Tournon； with its feudal chateau； blue in
the distance； then Saint Peray； on a verdant vine…clad slope。 As we pass
under the bridge at Montelimar； an avalanche of flowers descends on us
from above。
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The rapid current of the river soon brings our flotilla opposite Vivier；
whose Gothic cathedral bathes its feet in the Rhone。 Saint Esprit and its
antique bridge appear next on the horizon。 Tradition asserts that the Holy
Spirit； disguised as a stone mason； directed its construction； there were
thirteen workmen each day； but at sunset； when the men gathered to be
paid； but twelve could be counted。
Here the mayor and the municipal council were to have received us
and delivered an address； but were not on hand。 We could see the tardy
CORTEGE hastening towards the bridge as we shot away down stream。
On nearing Orange； the banks and quays of the river are alive with
people。 The high road； parallel with the stream； is alive with a many…
colored throng。 On all sides one hears the language of Mistral； and
recognizes the music of Mireille sung by these pilgrims to an artistic
Mecca； where a miracle is to be performed … and classic art called forth
from its winding… sheet。
The population of a whole region is astir under the ardent Provencal
sun； to witness a resurrection of the Drama in the historic valley of the
Rhone； through whose channel the civilization and art and culture of the
old world floated up into Europe to the ceaseless cry of the CIGALES。
Chateaurenard！ our water journey is ended。 Through the leafy avenues
that lead to Orange； we see the arch of Marius and the gigantic proscenium
of the theatre； rising above the roofs of the little city。
So few of our compatriots linger in the south of France after the spring
has set in； or wander in the by…ways of that inexhaustible country； that a
word about the representations at Orange may be of interest； and
perchance create a desire to see the masterpieces of classic drama （the
common inheritance of all civilized races） revived with us； and our stage
put to its legitimate use； cultivating and elevating the taste of the people。
One would so gladly see a little of the money that is generously given
for music used to revive in America a love for the classic drama。
We are certainly not inferior to our neighbors in culture or appreciation；
and yet such a performance as I witnessed at Orange （laying aside the
enchantment lent by the surroundings） would not be possible here。 Why？
But to return to my narrative。
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The sun is setting as we toil； ticket in hand； up the Roman stairway to
the upper rows of seats； far below the local GENDARMERIE who mostly
understand their orders backwards are struggling with the throng； whose
entrance they are apparently obstructing by every means in their power。
Once seated； and having a wait of an hour before us； we amused ourselves
watching the crowd filling in every corner of the vast building； like a
rising tide of multi…colored water。
We had purposely chosen places on the highest and most remote
benches； to test the vaunted acoustic qualities of the auditorium； and to
obtain a view of the half…circle of humanity； the gigantic wall back of the
stage； and the surrounding country。
As day softened into twilight； and twilight deepened into a luminous
Southern night； the effect was incomparable。 The belfries and roofs of
mediaeval Orange rose in the clear air； overtopping the half ruined theatre
in many places。 The arch of Marius gleamed white against the surrounding
hills； themselves violet and purple in the sunset； their shadow broken here
and there by the outline of a crumbling chateau or the lights of a village。
Behind us the sentries paced along the wall； wrapped in their dark
cloaks； and over all the scene； one snowtopped peak rose white on the
horizon； like some classic virgin assisting at an Olympian solemnity。
On the stage； partly cleared of the debris of fifteen hundred years； trees
had been left where they had grown； among fallen columns； fragments of
capital and statue； near the front a superb rose…laurel recalled the Attic
shores。 To the right； wild grasses and herbs alternated with thick shrubbery；
among which Orestes hid later； during the lamentations of his sister。 To the
left a gigantic fig…tree； growing again the dark wall； threw its branches far
out over the stage。
It was from behind its foliage that 〃Gaul；〃 〃Provence；〃 and 〃France；〃
personated by three actresses of the 〃Francais；〃 advanced to salute Apollo；
seated on his rustic throne； in the prologue which began the performance。
Since midday the weather had been threatening。 At seven o'clock there
was almost a shower … a moment of terrible anxiety。 What a misfortune if
it should rain； just as the actors were to appear； here； where it had not
rained for nearly four months！ My right…hand neighbor； a citizen of
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Beaucaire； assures me； 〃It will be nothing； only a strong ‘mistral' for to…
morrow。〃 An electrician is putting the finishing touches to his
arrangements。 He tries vainly to concentrate some light on the box where
the committee is to sit； which is screened by a bit of crumbling wall； but
finally gives it up。
Suddenly the bugles sound； the orchestra rings out the Marseillaise； it
is eigh
