the ways of men(人们的手段)-第17节
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It is； for instance； difficult to conceive of a Paris that ended at the rue
Royale； with only waste land and market gardens beyond the Madeleine；
where to…day so many avenues open their stately perspectives； yet such
was the case！ The few fine residences that existed beyond that point faced
the Faubourg Saint…Honore； with gardens running back to an unkempt
open country called the Champs Elysees； where an unfinished Arc de
Triomphe stood alone in a wilderness that no one ever dreamed of
traversing。
The fashionable ladies of that time drove in the afternoon along the
boulevards from the Madeleine to the Chateau d'Eau； and stopped their
ponderous yellow barouches at Tortoni's； where ices were served to them
in their carriages； while they chatted with immaculate dandies in skin…tight
nankeen unmentionables； blue swallow…tailed coats； and furry ‘beaver〃
hats。
While looking over some books in the company of an old lady who
from time to time opens her store of treasures and recalls her remote youth
at my request； and whose SPIRITUEL and graphic language gives to her
souvenirs the air of being stray chapters from some old…fashioned romance；
I received a vivid impression of how the French capital must have looked
fifty years ago。
Emptying in her company a chest of books that had not seen the light
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for several decades； we came across a 〃Panorama of the Boulevards；〃
dated 1845； which proved when unfolded to be a colored lithograph； a
couple of yards long by five or six inches high； representing the line of
boulevards from the Madeleine to the Place de la Bastille。 Each house；
almost each tree； was faithfully depicted； together with the crowds on the
sidewalks and the carriages in the street。 The whole scene was as different
from the effect made by that thoroughfare to…day as though five hundred
and not fifty years had elapsed since the little book was printed。 The
picture breathed an atmosphere of calm and nameless quaintness that one
finds now only in old provincial cities which have escaped the ravages of
improvement。
My companion sat with the book unfolded before her； in a smiling
trance。 Her mind had turned back to the far…away days when she first trod
those streets a bride； with all the pleasures and few of the cares of life to
think about。
I watched her in silence （it seemed a sacrilege to break in on such a
train of thought）； until gradually her eyes lost their far…away expression；
and； turning to me with a smile； she exclaimed： 〃How we ever had the
courage to appear in the street dressed as we were is a mystery！ Do you
see that carriage？〃 pointing in the print to a high…swung family vehicle
with a powdered coachman on the box； and two sky…blue lackeys standing
behind。 〃I can remember； as if it were yesterday； going to drive with Lady
B…； the British ambassadress； in just such a conveyance。 She drove four
horses with feathers on their heads； when she used to come to Meurice's
for me。 I blush when I think that my frock was so scant that I had to raise
the skirt almost to my knees in order to get into her carriage。
〃Why we didn't all die of pneumonia is another marvel； for we wore
low…necked dresses and the thinnest of slippers in the street； our heads
being about the only part that was completely covered。 I was particularly
proud of a turban surmounted with a bird of paradise； but Lady B… affected
poke bonnets； then just coming into fashion； so large and so deep that
when one looked at her from the side nothing was visible except two curls；
‘as damp and as black as leeches。' In other ways our toilets were absurdly
unsuited for every…day wear； we wore light scarves over our necks； and
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rarely used furlined pelisses。〃
Returning to an examination of the panorama； my companion pointed
out to me that there was no break in the boulevards； where the opera…house；
with its seven radiating avenues； now stands； but a long line of Hotels；
dozing behind high walls； and quaint two…storied buildings that
undoubtedly dated from the razing of the city wall and the opening of the
new thoroughfare under Louis XV。
A little farther on was the world…famous Maison Doree； where one
almost expected to see Alfred de Musset and le docteur Veron dining with
Dumas and Eugene Sue。
〃What in the name of goodness is that？〃 I exclaimed； pointing to a
couple of black and yellow monstrosities on wheels； which looked like
three carriages joined together with a 〃buggy〃 added on in front。
〃That's the diligence just arrived from Calais； it has been two days EN
ROUTE； the passengers sleeping as best they could； side by side； and
escaping from their confinement only when horses were changed or while
stopping for meals。 That high two…wheeled trap with the little ‘tiger'
standing up behind is a tilbury。 We used to see the Count d'Orsay driving
one like that almost every day。 He wore butter…colored gloves； and the
skirts of his coat were pleated full all around； and stood out like a ballet
girl's。 It is a pity they have not included Louis Philippe and his family
jogging off to Neuilly in the court ‘carryall；' … the ‘Citizen King；' with his
blue umbrella between his knees； trying to look like an honest bourgeois；
and failing even in that attempt to please the Parisians。
〃We were in Paris in '48； from my window at Meurice's I saw poor old
JUSTE MILIEU read his abdication from the historic middle balcony of
the Tuileries； and half an hour later we perceived the Duchesse d'Orleans
leave the Tuileries on foot； leading her two sons by the hand； and walk
through the gardens and across the Place de la Concorde to the Corps
Legislatif； in a last attempt to save the crown for her son。 Futile effort！
That evening the ‘Citizen King' was hurried through those same gardens
and into a passing cab； EN ROUTE for a life exile。
〃Our balcony at Meurice's was a fine point of observation from which
to watch a revolution。 With an opera…glass we could see the mob surging
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to the sack of the palace； the priceless furniture and bric…a…brac flung into
the street； court dresses waved on pikes from the tall windows； and finally
the throne brought out； and carried off to be burned。 There was no keeping
the men of our party in after that。 They rushed off to have a nearer glimpse
of the fighting； and we saw no more of them until daybreak the following
morning when； just as we were preparing to send for the police； two
dilapidated； ragged； black…faced mortals appeared； in whom we barely
recognized our husbands。 They had been impressed into service and
passed their night building barricades。 My better half； however； had
succeeded in snatching a handful of the gold fringe from the throne as it
was carried by； an act of prowess that repaid him for all his troubles and
fatigue。
〃I passed the greater part of forty…eight hours on our balcony； watching
the mob marching by； singing LA MARSEILLAISE； and camping at night
in the streets。 It was all I could do to tear myself away from the window
long enough to eat and write in my journal。
〃There was no Avenue de l'Opera then。 The trip from the boulevards to
the Palais…Royal had to be made by a long detour across the Place
Vendome （where； by the bye； a cattle market was held） or through a
labyrinth of narrow； bad…smelling little streets； where strangers easily lost
their way。 Next to the boulevards； the Palais…Royal was the centre of the
elegant and dissipated life in the capital。 It was there we met of an
afternoon to drink chocolate at the ‘Rotonde；' or to dine at ‘Les Trois
Freres Provencaux；' and let our h
