letters-第74节

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ed　me　　for　a　copy。　　I　sold　several　within　the　walls　of　the　custom…house。　　　The　object；　however；　of　most　attention　was　the　Gypsy　Gospel；　which　　was　minutely　examined　amidst　smiles　and　exclamations　of　surprise；　　some　individual　every　now　and　then　crying　'COSAS　DE　LOS　INGLESES。'　　　A　bystander　asked　me　whether　I　could　speak　the　Gitano　language。　　I　　replied　that　I　could　not　only　speak　it　but　write　it；　and　instantly　　made　a　speech　of　about　five　minutes　in　the　Gypsy　tongue；　which　I　　had　no　sooner　concluded　than　all　clapped　their　hands；　and　　simultaneously　shouted；　'COSAS　DE　LOS　INGLESES！　　COSAS　DE　LOS　　INGLESES！'　　I　disposed　of　several　Gypsy　Gospels　likewise；　and　　having　now　settled　the　business　which　brought　me　to　the　custom…　house；　I　saluted　my　new　friends　and　departed　with　my　books。

'I　strolled　from　the　inn　to　view　the　town。　　It　was　past　noon；　and　　the　heat　was　exceedingly　fierce　。　。　。　I　became　tired　of　gazing；　and　　was　retracing　my　steps；　when　I　was　accosted　by　two　Gypsies；　men　who　　by　some　means　had　heard　of　my　arrival。　　We　exchanged　some　words　in　　Gitano；　but　they　appeared　to　be　very　ignorant　of　the　language；　and　　utterly　unable　to　maintain　a　conversation　in　it。　　They　were　　clamorous　for　a　GABICOTE；　or　book；　in　Gypsy。　　I　refused　it　them；　　saying　that　they　could　turn　it　to　no　profitable　account；　and　　learning　that　they　could　read；　promised　them　each　a　Testament　in　　Spanish。　　This　offer；　however；　they　refused　with　disdain；　saying　　that　they　cared　for　nothing　written　in　the　language　of　the　BUSNE　or　　Gentiles。　　They　then　persisted　in　their　demand；　to　which　I　at　last　　yielded；　being　unable　to　resist　their　importunity；　whereupon　they　　accompanied　me　to　the　inn；　and　received　what　they　so　ardently　　desired。'

I　arrived　at　Cadiz　on　the　second　day　of　August；　when　I　waited　upon　　Mr。　Brackenbury；　the　British　consul…general。　　His　house；　which　is　　the　corner　one　at　the　entrance　of　the　ALAMEDA　or　public　walk；　　enjoys　a　noble　prospect　of　the　bay；　and　is　very　large　and　　magnificent。　　I　had　of　course　long　been　acquainted　with　Mr。　B。　by　　reputation。　　I　knew　that　for　many　years　he　bad　filled　with　　advantage　to　his　native　country　and　with　honour　to　himself　the　　distinguished　and　highly　responsible　situation　which　he　holds　in　　Spain。　　I　knew　likewise　that　he　was　a　good　and　pious　Christian；　and　　moreover　the　firm　and　enlightened　friend　of　the　Bible　Society。　　Of　　all　this　I　was　aware；　but　I　had　never　enjoyed　the　advantage　of　　being　personally　acquainted　with　him。　　I　saw　him　now　indeed　for　the　　first　time。　　I　was　much　struck　with　his　appearance；　there　is　much　　dignity　in　his　countenance；　which　is；　however；　softened　by　an　　expression　of　good　humour　truly　captivating　and　engaging。　　His　　manner　is　frank　and　affable　in　the　extreme。　　I　am　not　going　to　　enter　into　minute　details　of　our　interview；　which　was　a　very　　interesting　one　to　myself。　　He　knew　already　the　leading　parts　of　my　　history　since　my　arrival　in　Spain；　and　made　several　comments　　thereon　which　displayed　his　intimate　knowledge　of　the　situation　of　　Spain；　as　regards　ecclesiastical　matters；　and　the　state　of　opinion　　respecting　religious　innovation。　　I　was　flattered　to　find　that　his　　ideas　in　many　points　accorded　with　my　own；　and　we　were　both　　decidedly　of　opinion　that；　notwithstanding　the　great　persecution　　and　outcry　which　had　lately　been　raised　against　the　Gospel；　the　　battle　was　by　no　means　lost　in　Spain；　and　that　we　might　yet　hope　to　　see　the　holy　cause　triumph。

During　my　stay　at　Cadiz　I　experienced　every　kind　of　hospitality　　from　Mr。　B。　and　his　charming　family。　　Upon　my　departure　he　supplied　　me　with　a　letter　of　introduction　to　Mr。　Hay；　the　British　consul　at　　Tangiers；　which　I　have　since　learned　was　most　flattering　to　myself　　and　worded　in　the　most　energetic　manner。　　I　quitted　Cadiz　on　the　　morning　of　Sunday；　the　4th　August；　in　the　steamer　BALEAR；　arriving　　at　Gibraltar　on　the　evening　of　the　same　day。　　Nothing　particular　　occurred　to　me　during　my　stay　at　Gibraltar；　where　I　engaged　my　　passage　on　board　a　small　trading　vessel　for　Tangiers。　　We　were　　detained　by　various　causes　until　Thursday　the　8th；　when　we　sailed　　about　noon；　and　assisted　by　a　strong　and　favourable　wind　we　reached　　the　harbour　of　Tangiers　before　sunset。　　I　was　not　permitted　to　go　　on　shore　that　night；　my　passport　and　bill　of　health　having　first　to　　be　examined　by　the　authorities。　　Early　however　on　the　following　　morning；　Mr。　Hay；　who　had　received　Mr。　Brackenbury's　letters　of　　introduction；　sent　a　Moorish　soldier　and　his　own　servant　to　conduct　　me　to　his　house；　where　he　received　me　in　the　kindest　manner。　　He　　bad　already　procured　me　a　comfortable　lodging　in　the　house　of　a　　Christian　woman　where　I　have　remained　ever　since　my　arrival　at　　Tangiers；　constantly　receiving　every　species　of　attention　and　　civility　from　Ir。　Hay。

Tangiers　stands　on　the　side　of　a　rather　steep　hill　which　rises　　above　the　sea。　　It　is　a　walled　town；　and　towards　the　water　is　　defended　with　batteries　mounted　with　heavy　cannon。　　The　streets　are　　very　numerous　and　intersect　each　other　in　all　directions；　they　are　　narrow　and　precipitous；　and　the　houses　low；　small　and　mean。　　The　　principal　mosque；　or　JAMMA　＇DJMAH＇　is　rather　a　handsome　edifice；　　and　its　tower；　or　SUMAH；　which　is　built　of　bricks　of　various　　colours；　presents　a　picturesque　appearance　when　viewed　from　the　　sea：　　of　its　interior　I　can　of　course　say　little；　as　any　Christian　　who　should　venture　to　intrude　would　be　instantly　cast　forth　and　　probably　killed　by　the　populace。　　About　half　way　up　the　hill　within　　the　town　there　is　a　small　market…place　called　in　the　language　of　　the　country　SOC。　　It　is　surrounded　with　little　shops　or　booths；　in　　which　all　kinds　of　dry　fruits；　such　as　dates；　raisins；　almonds；　and　　walnuts　are　exposed　for　sale；　and　also　honey；　soap；　sugar；　and　such　　other　articles　of　grocery。　　These　little　shops　are　not　in　general　　kept　by　Moors；　but　by　people　from　the　country　of　Suz；　who　speak　a　　different　language　from　the　Moors；　and　are　of　a　different　race；　　being　a　branch　of　the　Berber　stem；　they　are　the　grocers　of　Barbary　　and　are；　in　comparison　with　the　Moors；　an　honest；　peaceable；　and　　industrious　people。　　The　castle　of　the　Governor　stands　at　the　　northern　extremity　of　Tangiers；　on　the　top　of　a　high　eminence　which　　towers　above　the　town；　its　outer　walls　embrace　a　very　large　portion　　of　ground；　which　is　principally　occupied　by　large　edifices　in　the　　greatest　dilapidation　and　decay。　　The　castle　itself　when　I　visited　　it　was　undergoing　repair；　during　the　absence　of　the　pasha　who　has　　since　returned。　　All　its　inlets　and　outlets　and　also　the　greatest　　part　of　the　apartments　were　choked　up　with　ruins；　rubbish；　and　　mortar。　　The　courtyard　however　is　very　fine；　and　is　adorned　with　a　　fountain　distilling　limpid　water；　which　is　a　rare　spectacle　in　　Tangiers　where　water　is　not　in　abundance。　　At　each　end　of　this　　court　there　is　a　hall　of　audience；　highly　magnificent　in　its　way；　　with　a　roof　of　rich　fretted　work　in　the　old　Moorish　taste；　such　as　　I　have　seen　in　the　Alhambra　of　Granada；　and　in　that　truly　fairy　　palace　the　Alcazar　of　Seville。

Tangiers　contains　a　population　of　about　twenty　thousand　souls；　of　　which　at　least　one…third　are　Jews：　　the　Christian　portion　does　not　　amount　to　about　two　hundred　and　fifty　individuals；　including　the　　various　consuls　and　their　families。　　These　latter　gentlemen　enjoy　　considerable　authority　in　the　town；　so　much　so　that　in　all　disputes　　between　Moors　and　Christians　they　alone　are　the　judges；　and　their　　decision　is　law；　they　are　a　very　respectable　body；　being　without　　one　exception　exceedingly　well…bred　gentlemanly　individuals；　and　　several　of　them；　particularly　Mr　Hay；　the　British　consul…general；　　possessed　of　high　literary　attainments。　　They　enjoy　very　large　　salaries　from　their　respective　governments；　varying　from　ten　to　　sixteen　thousand　dollars　per　annum；　so　that；　as　all　the　necessaries　　and　indeed　many　of　the　luxuries　of　life　may　be　obtained　at　a　very　　cheap　price　at　Tangiers；　they　live　in　a　state　of　magnificence　more　　akin　to　that　of　petty　kings　than　consuls　in　general。　　The　most　　perfect　harmony　exists　amongst　them；　and　if；　at　any　time；　any　　little　dispute　occur　between　two　or　three　of　them；　the　rest　　instantly　interfere　and　arrange　matters；　and　they　are　invariably　　united　to　a　man　against　the　slightest　infringement　of　their　　privileges　and　immunities　on　the　part　of　the　Moorish　Government；　　and　a　slight　or　injury　to　one　is　instantly　resented　by　all。　　The　　duties　of　the　greatest　part　of　them　are　far　from　being　onerous；　　more　especially　as　each　is　provided　with　a　vice…consul；　who　is　also　　an　exceedingly　well…bred　and　very　well…paid　gentleman。　　They　pass　　the　greatest　part　of　their　time　in　cultivating　their　delicious　　gardens；　which；　surrounded　by　hedges　of　KSOB；　which　is　a　species　of　　gigantic　reed；　cover　the　hills　in　the　vicinity　of　Tangiers。　　Their　　houses；　which　are　palace…looking　buildings　in　the　European　taste　　and　which　contrast　strangely　with　the　mean　huts　of　the　Moors；　are　　all　surmounted　by　a　flag…staff；　which　on　gala　days　displays　the　　banner　of　its　respective　nation。　　It　is　curious　then　to　gaze　from　　the　castle　hill　on　the　town　below；　twelve　banners　are　streaming　in　　the　wind　of　the　Levant；　which　blows　here　almost　incessantly。　　One　　is　the　bloody　flag