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　of　the　moon　was　occasionally　　visible。　　On　our　enquiring　the　way　to　the　gate；　the　Miguelet　　directed　us　down　a　street　to　the　left；　which　we　followed。　　The　　street　was　steep；　we　could　see　no　gate；　and　our　progress　was　soon　　stopped　by　houses　and　wall。　　We　knocked　at　the　gates　of　two　or　　three　of　these　houses　（in　the　upper　stories　of　which　lights　were　　burning）　for　the　purpose　of　being　set　right；　but　we　were　either　　disregarded　or　not　heard。　　A　horrid　squalling　of　cats　from　the　tops　　of　the　houses　and　dark　corners　saluted　our　ears；　and　I　thought　of　　the　night…arrival　of　Don　Quixote　and　his　squire　at　Tobosa；　and　　their　vain　search　amongst　the　deserted　streets　for　the　palace　of　　Dulcinea。　　At　length　we　saw　light　and　heard　voices　in　a　cottage　at　　the　further　side　of　a　kind　of　ditch。　　Leading　the　horses　over；　we　　called　at　the　door；　which　was　opened　by　an　aged　man；　who　appeared　　by　his　dress　to　be　a　baker；　as　indeed　he　proved；　which　accounted　　for　his　being　up　at　so　late　an　hour。　　On　begging　him　to　show　us　the　　way　into　the　town；　he　led　us　up　a　very　narrow　alley　at　the　end　of　　his　cottage；　saying　that　he　would　likewise　conduct　us　to　the　　POSADA。　　The　alley　led　directly　to　what　appeared　to　be　the　market…　place；　at　a　corner　house　of　which　our　guide　stopped　and　knocked。　　　After　a　long　pause　an　upper　window　was　opened；　and　a　female　voice　　demanded　who　we　were。　　The　old　man　replied　that　two　travellers　had　　arrived　who　were　in　need　of　lodging。　　'I　cannot　be　disturbed　at　　this　time　of　night；'　said　the　woman；　'they　will　be　wanting　supper；　　and　there　is　nothing　in　the　house；　they　must　go　elsewhere。'　　She　　was　going　to　shut　the　window；　but　I　cried　that　we　wanted　no　supper；　　but　merely　a　resting…place　for　ourselves　and　horses；　that　we　had　　come　that　day　from　Astorga；　and　were　dying　with　fatigue。　　'Who　is　　that　speaking？'　cried　the　woman。　　'Surely　that　is　the　voice　of　Gil；　　the　German　clock…maker　from　Pontevedra。　　Welcome；　old　companion；　　you　are　come　at　the　right　time；　for　my　own　is　out　of　order。　　I　am　　sorry　I　kept　you　waiting；　but　I　will　admit　you　in　a　moment。'

The　window　was　slammed　to；　presently　light　shone　through　the　　crevices　if　the　door；　a　key　turned　in　the　lock；　and　we　were　　admitted。



LETTER：　19th　August；　1837



To　the　Rev。　A。　Brandram　（ENDORSED：　recd。　Sept。　11；　1837）　SAINT　JAMES　（SANTIAGO）　OF　COMPOSTELLA；　19TH　AUG。　＇1837＇。

REVD。　AND　DEAR　SIR；　…　I　left　Corunna　about　ten　days　since　for　this　　town；　travelling　with　the　courier　or　weekly　post；　who　was　escorted　　by　a　strong　party　of　soldiers　in　consequence　of　the　distracted　　state　of　the　country。　　Nothing　particular　worth　relating　occurred　　during　the　journey；　which　occupied　a　day　and　a　half；　though　the　　distance　is　barely　ten　leagues。　　Santiago；　or　Saint　James；　is；　as　　you　are　aware；　the　capital　of　Galicia；　and　the　residence　of　the　　Metropolitan。　　It　is；　or　was；　the　most　celebrated　resort　for　　pilgrims　in　the　whole　world；　with　the　exception　of　Jerusalem；　as　it　　is　said　to　contain　the　bones　of　Saint　James　the　Elder；　the　Child　of　　the　Thunder；　who　according　to　the　legend　of　the　Roman　Church　first　　preached　the　Gospel　in　Spain。　　The　cathedral；　though　built　at　　various　periods　and　by　no　means　uniform；　is　a　majestic；　venerable　　edifice；　in　every　respect　calculated　to　excite　awe　and　admiration；　　indeed　it　is　almost　impossible　to　walk　its　long　dusky　aisles　and　　hear　the　solemn　music　and　the　noble　chanting　and　inhale　the　incense　　of　the　mighty　censers；　which　are　at　times　swung　so　high　by　　machinery　that　they　smite　the　vaulted　roof；　whilst　gigantic　tapers　　glitter　here　and　there　amongst　the　gloom　from　the　shrine　of　many　a　　saint；　before　which　the　worshippers　are　kneeling；　breathing　forth　　their　prayers　and　petitions　for　help；　love；　and　mercy；　and　　entertain　a　doubt　that　we　are　treading　the　floor　of　a　house　where　　God　delighteth　to　dwell。　　Yet　the　Lord　is　distant　from　that　house。　　　He　heareth　not；　He　seeth　not：　　or；　if　He　hear　and　see；　it　is　with　　anger。　　What　availeth　that　solemn　music；　that　noble　chanting；　that　　incense　of　sweet　savour？　　What　availeth　kneeling　before　that　grand　　altar　of　silver；　surmounted　by　that　figure　with　its　silver　hat　and　　breastplate；　the　emblem　of　one　who；　although　an　Apostle　and　　Confessor；　was　at　best　an　unprofitable　servant？　　What　availeth　　hoping　for　remission　of　sin　by　trusting　in　the　merits　of　him　who　　possessed　none；　or　by　paying　homage　to　others　who　were　born　and　　nurtured　in　sin；　and　who　alone　by　the　exercise　of　a　lively　faith　　granted　from　above　could　hope　to　preserve　themselves　from　the　wrath　　of　the　Almighty？　　Yet　such　acts　and　formalities　constitute　what　is　　termed　religion　at　Compostella；　where；　perhaps；　God　and　His　will　　are　less　known　and　respected　than　at　Pekin　or　amid　the　wildernesses　　where　graze　the　coursers　of　the　Mongol　and　the　Mandchou。　　Perhaps　　there　is　no　part　of　Spain　where　the　Romish　religion　is　so　cherished　　as　throughout　Galicia。　　In　no　part　of　Spain　are　the　precepts　and　　ordinances　of　that　Church；　especially　fasting　and　confession；　so　　strictly　observed；　and　its　ministers　regarded　with　so　much　respect　　and　deference。　　The　natural　conclusion　therefore　would　be　that；　if　　the　religion　of　Rome　be　the　same　as　that　founded　by　Christ；　the　　example　of　the　Saviour　is　more　closely　followed；　and　the　savage　and　　furious　passions　more　bridled；　bloodshed　and　rapine　less　frequent；　　unchastity　and　intemperance　less　apparent；　and　the　minds　of　the　　people　more　enlightened　and　free　from　the　mists　of　superstition　in　　Galicia　than　in　other　provinces。

What　is　the　fact？　　Almost　every　road　is　teeming　with　banditti；　who　　under　the　name　of　Carlists　plunder　friend　and　foe；　and　to　robbery　　join　cruelty　so　atrociously　horrible　that　indignation　at　the　crime　　is　frequently　lost　in　wonder；　for　the　Galician　robbers　are　seldom　　satisfied　with　booty；　and　unlike　their　brethren　in　other　parts　　generally　mutilate　or　assassinate　those　who　are　so　unfortunate　as　　to　fall　in　their　hands；　prostitution　is　carried　on　to　an　enormous　　extent；　and　although　loathsome　concustant　＇sic＇　diseases　stare　the　　stranger　in　the　face　in　the　street；　in　the　market…place；　in　the　　church；　and　at　the　fountain；　'Drunken　as　a　Galician'　is　a　proverb；　　and　superstitions　forgotten；　abandoned　in　the　rest　of　Spain；　are　　clung　to　here　with　surprising　pertinacity；　the　clergy　exerting　　themselves　to　uphold　them　by　carrying　on　a　very　extensive　sale　in　　charms；　verifying　the　old　saying；　'Witches　are　found　where　friars　　abound。'

An　unhappy　man；　whilst　collecting　vipers　amongst　the　hills；　which　　he　was　in　the　practice　of　selling　to　the　apothecaries；　was　lately　　met　near　Orense　by　some　of　these　monsters。　　Having　plundered　and　　stripped　him；　they　tied　his　hands　behind　him　and　thrust　his　head　　into　the　sack；　which　contained　several　of　these　horrible　reptiles　　alive！　　They　then　fastened　the　sack　at　the　mouth　round　his　neck；　　and　having　feasted　their　ears　for　a　time　with　his　cries；　they　　abandoned　him　to　his　fate。　　The　poor　wretch；　stung　by　the　vipers　in　　the　face　and　eyes；　presently　became　mad　and　ran　through　several　　villages；　till　he　fell　dead。

I　am　now　in　the　heart　of　this　strange　country　and　people。　　It　has　　pleased　the　Lord　to　bless　my　humble　endeavours　more　than　I　had　　reason　to　expect；　since　my　arrival　Santiago　between　thirty　and　　forty　copies　of　the　New　Testament　have　been　despatched。　　The　　bookseller　of　the　place；　Rey　Romero；　a　venerable　man　of　seventy；　　very　wealthy　and　respected；　has　taken　up　the　cause　with　an　　enthusiasm　which　doubtless　emanates　from　on　high；　losing　no　　opportunity　of　recommending　the　work　to　those　who　enter　his　shop；　　which　is　very　splendid　and　commodious。

In　many　instances；　when　the　peasants　of　the　neighbourhood　have　come　　with　the　intention　of　purchasing　some　of　the　foolish　popular　story…　books　of　Spain；　he　has　persuaded　them　in　lieu　thereof　to　carry　home　　Testaments；　assuring　them　that　it　was　not　only　a　better　and　more　　instructive；　but　even　a　far　more　entertaining　book　than　those　they　　came　in　quest　of。　　He　has　taken　a　great　fancy　to　me；　and　comes　to　　visit　me　every　evening；　when　he　accompanies　me　in　my　walks　about　　the　town　and　environs。　　Every　one　who　is　aware　how　rare　it　is　to　　meet　with　friendship　and　cordiality　in　Spain　will　easily　conceive　　my　joy　at　finding　such　a　coadjutor；　and　I　have　no　doubt　that　when　I　　am　absent　he　will　exert　himself　as　much；　and　I　hope　as　effectually；　　as　now　that　I　am　present。

I　leave　Saint　James　to…morrow　for　Pontevedra　and　Vigo；　carrying　　with　me　some　Testaments　which　I　hope　to　dispose　of；　notwithstanding　　there　are　no　booksellers　in　those　places。　　I　shall　then　return　to　　Corunna；　either　by　Compostella　or　by　some　other　route。　　I　trust　the　　Lord　will　preserve　me　in　this　journey　as　He　has　done　in　others。　　　From　Corunna　I　propose　to　travel　through　the　mountains　to　Oviedo　in　　the　Asturias；　provided　that　town　be　not　speedily　in　the　hands　of　　the　factious。　　By　the　time　these　lines　reach　you；　you　will　　doubtless　have　heard　of　the　irruption　of　a　part　of　the　Pretender's　　hordes　into　Old　Castile；　they　have　carried　everything　before　them；　　and　have　sacked　and　taken　possession　of　the　city　of　Segovia；　　distant　only　one　day's　march　from　Madrid。　　From　the　aspect　of　　things　I　should　say　that　the　miseries　of　this　land；　far　from　having　　reached　their　c