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st　found　　one；　dark；　dirty；　and　exceedingly　expensive；　without　attendance。　　I　　shall　not　trouble　you　with　a　description　of　Lisbon；　for　as　I　have　　much　that　is　important　to　communicate　I　must　not　waste　paper　with　　uninteresting　details。　　I　will　merely　observe　that　it　is　a　noble　　town；　situated　on　seven　hills　on　the　left　bank　of　the　Tagus；　the　　houses　are　very　lofty；　like　castles；　the　streets　are　in　general　　precipitously　steep；　and　no　animals　of　burden　but　mules；　asses；　and　　oxen　can　traverse　them　with　safety。　　I　found　the　streets　by　no　　means　so　dirty　as　they　have　been　represented；　and　at　night　they　are　　tolerably　well　lighted；　but　between　the　hours　of　nine　and　twelve　　they　swarm　with　robbers　and　assassins。

I　should　have　written　to　you　before；　but　I　wished　to　transmit　in　my　　first　letter　a　stock　of　information　which　would　enable　you　at　once　　to　form　some　idea　as　to　the　state　of　this　country；　and　in　order　to　　acquire　such　I　have　visited　every　part　of　Lisbon；　entered　into　　discourse　with　the　people　on　all　occasions；　and　have　made　a　journey　　of　nearly　one　hundred　miles　about　the　country；　during　which　I　　visited　Cintra　and　Mafra；　at　the　former　of　which　places　I　remained　　four　days；　making　excursions　in　the　meanwhile　on　foot　or　on　a　mule　　amongst　the　mountains；　and　visiting　whatever　villages　are　contained　　within　its　beautiful　and　picturesque　neighbourhood。

In　Lisbon　carelessness　for　religion　of　any　kind　seems　to　prevail。　　　The　people　appear　in　general　to　have　shaken　off　the　old　　superstition　and　to　feel　no　inclination　to　bend　their　necks　to　　another　yoke。　　Many　of　them　have　told　me　that　the　priests　are　the　　veriest　knaves　in　the　world；　and　that　they　have　for　many　years　　subsisted　by　imposing　upon　them；　and　that　they　wished　the　whole　　body　was　destroyed　from　the　face　of　the　earth。　　I　have　enquired　of　　many　of　the　lower　orders　whether　they　ever　confessed　themselves；　　whereupon　they　laughed　in　my　face　and　said　that　they　had　not　done　　so　for　years；　demanding　what　good　would　result　to　them　for　so　　doing；　and　whether　I　was　fool　enough　to　suppose　that　a　priest　could　　forgive　sins　for　a　sum　of　money。　　One　day　whilst　speaking　to　a　　muleteer　I　pointed　to　a　cross　over　the　gate　of　a　chapel　opposite　to　　us；　and　asked　him　if　he　reverenced　it；　he　instantly　flew　into　a　　rage；　stamped　violently；　and　spitting　on　the　ground　said　it　was　a　　piece　of　stone；　and　that　he　should　have　no　more　objection　to　spit　　upon　it　than　the　stones　on　which　he　trod：　　'I　believe　that　there　is　　a　God；'　he　added；　'but　as　for　the　nonsense　which　the　priests　tell　　us　I　believe　no　part　of　it。'　　It　has　not　yet　been　my　fortune　during　　my　researches　in　Lisbon　to　meet　one　individual　of　the　populace　　amongst　the　many　I　have　addressed　who　had　read　the　Scripture　or　　knew　anything　of　its　contents；　though　many　of　them　have　assured　me　　that　they　could　read；　which　in　many　instances　I　have　found　to　be　　the　fact；　having　repeatedly　taken　from　my　pocket　the　New　Testament　　in　Portuguese　which　I　constantly　carry　with　me；　and　requested　them　　to　read　a　few　verses；　which　they　were　able　to　do。　　Some　of　these　　individuals　had　read　much　in　their　own　language；　which　indeed　　contains　a　store　of　amusing　and　instructive　literature　…　for　　example；　the　chronicles　of　the　various　kings　of　Portugal　and　of　the　　heroes　who　distinguished　themselves　in　the　various　wars　of　India；　　after　Vasco　da　Gama　had　opened　the　way　into　the　vast　regions　of　the　　East　by　doubling　the　Cape。

Amongst　the　many　public　places　which　I　have　visited　at　Lisbon　is　　the　Convent　of　San　Geronymo；　the　church　of　which　is　the　most　　beautiful　specimen　of　Gothic　architecture　in　the　Peninsula；　and　is　　furnished　with　the　richest　shrines。　　Since　the　expulsion　of　the　　monks　from　the　various　religious　houses　in　Portugal；　this　edifice　　has　served　as　an　asylum　for　orphans；　and　at　present　enjoys　the　　particular　patronage　of　the　young　＇Queen＇。　　In　this　establishment　　upwards　of　five　hundred　children；　some　of　them　female；　are　educated　　upon　the　Lancastrian　system；　and　when　they　have　obtained　a　　sufficient　age　are　put　out　to　the　various　trades　and　professions　　for　which　they　are　deemed　most　suited；　the　tallest　and　finest　of　　the　lads　being　drafted　into　the　army。　　One　of　the　boys　of　his　own　　accord　became　my　guide　and　introduced　me　to　the　various　classes；　　where　I　found　the　children　clean　and　neat　and　actively　employed　　upon　their　tasks。　　I　asked　him　if　the　Holy　Scripture　（SANTA　　ESCRITURA）　was　placed　in　the　hands　of　the　scholars。　　He　answered　in　　the　affirmative；　but　I　much　doubt　the　correctness　of　his　answer；　　for　upon　my　requesting　him　to　show　me　a　copy　of　the　Holy　Scripture；　　he　did　not　appear　to　know　what　I　meant　by　it。　　When　he　said　that　　the　scholars　read　the　Holy　Scripture　he　probably　meant　the　vile　　papistical　book　called　'Christian　Doctrine；'　in　which　the　office　of　　the　mass　is　expounded；　which　indeed　I　saw　in　the　hands　of　the　　junior　boys；　and　which；　from　what　I　have　since　seen；　I　believe　to　　be　a　standard　school…book　in　Portugal。　　I　spent　nearly　two　hours　in　　examining　the　various　parts　of　this　institution；　and　it　is　my　　intention　to　revisit　it　in　a　short　time；　when　I　hope　to　obtain　far　　better　information　as　to　the　moral　and　religious　education　of　its　　inmates。

On　my　arrival　at　Lisbon　I　was　disappointed　in　my　expectation　of　　finding　Mr。　Wilby；　who　was　in　the　country　and　was　not　expected　for　　a　week。　　I　therefore　had　at　first　no　person　to　whom　I　could　apply　　for　counsel　as　to　the　best　means　of　proceeding；　but　unwilling　to　　remain　idle　till　the　period　of　his　arrival；　I　at　once　commenced　　operations　at　Lisbon　as　I　have　narrated。　　At　the　end　of　four　or　　five　days　I　started　for　Cintra；　distant　about　four　leagues　from　　Lisbon；　situate　on　a　ledge　of　the　northern　declivity　of　a　wild　and　　picturesque　mountain。　　Cintra　contains　about　eight　hundred　　inhabitants；　and　in　its　environs　are　many　magnificent　QUINTAS　or　　country　seats　of　some　of　the　first　families　in　Portugal；　it　is　　likewise　a　royal　residence；　for　at　its　north…eastern　side　stands　an　　ancient　palace；　which　though　unfurnished　is　preserved　in　＇good　　repair＇；　and　which　was　the　favourite　residence　of　the　ancient　　kings。　　On　one　of　the　ridges　of　＇this＇　mountain　are　seen　the　ruins　　of　an　immense　castle；　which　for　centuries　was　the　stronghold　of　the　　Moors　in　this　part　of　the　Peninsula。　　The　morning　after　my　arrival　　I　was　about　to　ascend　the　mountain　to　examine　it；　when　I　observed　a　　person；　advanced　in　years；　whom；　by　his　dress；　I　judged　to　be　an　　ecclesiastic；　upon　enquiry　I　found　in　effect　that　he　was　one　of　the　　three　priests　of　the　place。　　I　instantly　accosted　him；　and　had　no　　reason　to　repent　for　so　doing；　for　I　found　him　affable　and　　communicative。　　After　praising　the　beauty　of　the　scenery；　I　made　　some　enquiry　as　to　the　state　of　education　amongst　the　people　　beneath　his　care。　　He　told　me　that　he　was　sorry　to　＇say　that＇　they　　were　in　a　state　of　great　ignorance；　that　very　few　of　them　could　　either　write　or　＇read＇；　that　there　was　no　school　in　the　place　but　　one　at　which　a　few　children　were　taught　the　alphabet；　but　which　was　　not　then　open；　that　there　was　a　school　at　Colhares；　about　a　league　　＇distant＇。　　He　said　that　nothing　so　surprised　him　as　to　see　　English；　the　most　learned　and　intelligent　people　in　the　world；　　visiting　a　place　like　Cintra；　where　there　was　no　literature　and　　nothing　of　utility　（AONDE　NO　HA　NEM　LEITURA；　NEM　SCIENCIA；　NEM　　ALGUMA　COUSA　QUE　PRESTA）。　　You　may　easily　guess　that　I　was　in　no　　slight　degree　surprised　to　hear　a　priest　of　Portugal　lament　the　　ignorance　of　the　populace；　and　began　to　entertain　hopes　that　I　　should　not　find　the　priests　in　general　so　indisposed　to　the　mental　　improvement　of　the　people　as　I　at　first　imagined。

That　same　day　I　visited　Colhares；　a　romantic　village　lower　down　the　　mountain　to　the　west；　near　the　sea。　　Seeing　some　peasants　collected　　round　the　smithy　I　enquired　about　the　school；　and　one　instantly　　offered　to　be　my　guide　thither。　　I　went　upstairs　into　a　small　　apartment　where　I　found　the　master　with　about　a　dozen　pupils　　standing　in　a　row；　for　there　was　but　one　chair；　or　rather　stool；　to　　which；　after　having　embraced　me；　he　conducted　me　with　great　　civility。　　After　some　discourse　he　shewed　me　the　books　which　he　　used　for　the　instruction　of　his　pupils；　they　were　spelling…books　　like　those　used　in　our　village　schools　and　the　before…mentioned　　'Christian　Doctrine。'　　Upon　my　enquiring　whether　it　was　his　custom　　to　use　the　Scripture　in　his　school；　he　told　me　that　long　before　the　　children　had　acquired　sufficient　intelligence　to　understand　the　　Scriptures　their　parents　took　them　from　school　in　order　that　they　　might　assist　them　in　the　labours　of　the　field；　and　that　in　general　　they　were　by　no　means　solicitous　that　their　children　should　learn　　anything；　as　they　considered　the　time　occupied　in　acquiring　　learning　as　squandered　away。　　He　added　that　all　the　village　schools　　in　Portugal　were　supported　by　the　Government；　but　that　many　of　them　　had　lately　been　discontinued；　as　the　schoolmasters　experienced　the　　greatest　difficulty　in　obtaining　their　salaries；　but　that　he　had　　heard　that　it　was　the　intention　of　the　Government　to　establish　　schools　in　all　parts　of　the　country　on　the　Lancastrian　system　…　　which　since　my　return　to　Lisbon　I　have　discovered　to　be　a