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Grand Tour;〃 and in time for the Carrousel。 〃His Lordship's reception at Court here; one regretted to hear; was nothing distinguished; quite indifferent; indeed; had not the Queen…Mother stept in with amendments。 The Courts are not well together; pity for it。 My Lord and his Tutor did me the honor to return my visit; the rather as we all quartered in the same Inn。 Amiable young Nobleman;〃so distinguished since; for having had unconsciously an Edmund Burke; and such torrents of Parliamentary Eloquence; in his breeches…pocket (BREECHES…POCKET literally; how unknown to Hanway!)〃Amiable young Nobleman; is not it one's duty to salute; in passing such a one? Though I would by no means have it over…done; and am a calmly independent man。

〃Sir Jonas also saw the Carrousel 'of which presently'; and admired the great men of Berlin。 Great men; all obsolete now; though then admired to infinitude; some of them: 'You may abuse me;' said the King to some stranger arrived in Berlin; 'you may abuse me; and perhaps here and there get praise by doing it: but I advise you not to doubt of Lieberkuhn 'the fashionable Doctor' in any company in Berlin;'〃 'Hanway; ii。 190; 202; &c。'How fashionable are men!

One Collini; a young Italian; quite new in Berlin; chanced also to be at the Carrousel; or at the latter half of it;though by no means in quest of such objects just at present; poor young fellow! As he came afterwards to be Secretary or Amanuensis of Voltaire; and will turn up in that capacity; let us read this Note upon him:

〃Signor Como Alessandro Collini; a young Venetian gentleman of some family and education; but of no employment or resource; had in late years been asking zealously all round among his home circle; What am I to do with myself? mere echo answering; What;till a Signora Sister of Barberina the Dancer's answered: 'Try Berlin; and King FRIDERICO IL GRANDE there? I could give you a letter to my Sister!' At which Collini grasps; gets under way for Berlin;through wild Alpine sceneries; foreign guttural populations; and with what thoughts; poor young fellow。 It is a common course to take; and sometimes answers; sometimes not。 The cynosure of vague creatures; with a sense of faculty without direction。 What clouds of winged migratory people gathering in to Berlin; all through this Reign。 Not since Noah's Ark a stranger menagerie of creatures; mostly wild。 Of whom Voltaire alone is; in our time; worth mention。

〃Collini gazed upon the Alpine chasms; and shaggy ice…palaces; with tender memory of the Adriatic; courageously steered his way through the inoffensive guttural populations; had got to Berlin; just in this time; been had to dinner daily by the hospitable Barberinas; young Cocceji always his fellow…guest;'Privately; my poor Signorina's Husband!' whispered old Mamma。 Both the Barberinas were very kind to Collini; cheering him with good auguries; and offers of help。 Collini does not date with any punctuality; but the German Books will do it for him。 August 25th…27th was Carrousel; and Collini had arrived few days before。〃 'Collini;  Mon Sejour aupres de Voltaire  (Paris; 1807); pp。 1…21。'

And now it is time we were at the Carrousel ourselves;in a brief transient way。 


                          Chapter VI。

          BERLIN CARROUSEL; AND VOLTAIRE VISIBLE THERE。

Readers have heard of the PLACE DU CARROUSEL at Paris; and know probably that Louis XIV。 held world…famous Carrousel there (A。D。 1662); and; in general; that Carrousel has something to do with Tourneying; or the Shadow of Tourneying。 It is; in fact; a kind of superb be…tailored running at the ring; instead of be…blacksmithed running at one another。 A Second milder Edition of those Tournament sports; and dangerous trials of strength and dexterity; which were so grand a business in the Old iron Ages。 Of which; in the form of Carrousel or otherwise; down almost to the present day; there have been examples; among puissant Lords;though now it is felt to have become extremely hollow; perhaps incapable of fully entertaining anybody; except children and their nurses on a high occasion。

A century ago; before the volcanic explosion of so many things which it has since become wearisome to think of in this earnest world; the Tournament; emblem of an Age of Chivalry; which was gone: but had not yet declared itself to be quite gone; and even to be turned topsy…turvy; had still substance as a mummery;not enough; I should say; to spend much money upon。 Not much real money: except; indeed; the money were offered you gratis; from other parties interested? Sir Jonas kindly informs us; by insinuation; that this was; to a good degree; Friedrich's case in the now Carrousel: 〃a thing got up by the private efforts of different great Lords and Princes of the blood;〃 each party tailoring; harnessing and furbishing himself and followers; Friedrich contributing little but the arena and general outfit。 I know not whether even the 40;000 lamps (for it took place by night) were of his purchase; though that is likely; and know only that the Suppers and interior Palace Entertainments would be his。 〃Did not cost the King much money;〃 says Sir Jonas; which is satisfactory to know。 For of the Carrousel kind; or of the Royal… Mummery kind in general; there has been; for graceful arrangement; for magnificence regardless of expense;inviting your amiable Lord Malton; and the idlers of all Countries; and awakening the rapture of Gazetteers;nothing like it since Louis the Grand's time。 Nothing;except perhaps that Camp of Muhlberg or Radowitz; where we once were。 Done; this one; not at the King's expense alone; but at other people's chiefly: that is an unexpected feature; welcome if true; and; except for Sir Jonas; would not have helped to explain the puzzle for us; as it did in the then Berlin circles。 Muhlberg; in my humble judgment; was worth two of this as a Mummery;but the meritorious feature of Friedrich's is; that it cost him very little。

It was; say all Gazetteers and idle eye…witnesses; a highly splendid spectacle。 By much the most effulgent exhibition Friedrich ever made of himself in the Expensive…Mummery department: and I could give in extreme detail the phenomena of it; but; in mercy to poor readers; will not。 Fancy the assiduous hammering and sawing on the Schloss…Platz; amid crowds of gay loungers; giving cheerful note of preparation; in those latter days of August; 1750。 And; on WEDNESDAY NIGHT; 25th AUGUST; look and see;for the due moments only; and vaguely enough (as in the following Excerpt):

PALACE…ESPLANADE OF BERLIN; 25th AUGUST; 1750 (dusk sinking into dark): 〃Under a windy nocturnal sky; a spacious Parallelogram; enclosed for jousting as at Aspramont or Trebisond。 Wide enough arena in the centre; vast amphitheatre of wooden seats and passages; firm carpentry and fitted for its business; rising all round; Audience; select though multitudinous; sitting decorous and garrulous; say since half…past eight。 There is royal box on the ground…tier; and the King in it; King; with Princess Amelia for the prizes: opposite to this is entrance for the Chevaliers;four separate entrances; I think。 Who come;lo; at last!with breathings and big swells of music; as Resuscitations from the buried Ages。

〃They are in four 'Quadrilles;' so termed: Romans; Persians; Carthaginians; Greeks。 Four Jousting Parties; headed each by a Prince of the Blood:with such a splendor of equipment for jewels; silver helmets; sashings; housings; as eye never saw。 Prancing on their glorious battle…steeds (sham…battle; steeds not sham; but champing their bits as real quadrupeds with fire in their interior):how many in all; I forgot to count。 Perhaps; on the average; sixty in each Quadrille; fifteen of them practical Ritters; the rest mythologic winged standard…bearers; blackamoors; lictors; trumpeters and shining melodious phantasms as escort;of this latter kind say in round numbers Two Hundred altogether; and of actual Ritters threescore。 'Blumenthal;  Life of De Ziethen  (Ziethen was in it; and gained a prize); i。 257…263 et seq。; Voltaire's LETTERS to Niece Denis  ( OEuvres;  lxxiv。 174; 179; 198);and two contemporary 4tos on the subject; with Drawings &c。; which may well continue unknown to every reader。' Who run at rings; at Turks' heads; and at other objects with death…doing lance; and prance and flash and career along: glorious to see and hear。 Under proud flourishings of drums and trumpets; under bursts and breathings of wind…music; under the shine of Forty Thousand Lamps; for one item。 All Berlin and the nocturnal firmament looking on;night rather gusty; 'which blew out many of the lamps;' insinuates Hanway。

〃About midnight; Beauty in the form of Princess Amelia distributes the prizes; Music filling the air; and human 'EUGE'S;' and the surviving lamps; doing their best。 After which the Principalities and Ritters withdraw to their Palace; to their Balls and their Supper of the gods; and all the world and his wife goes home again; amid various commentary from high and low。 'JAMAIS; Never;' murmured one high Gentleman; of the Impromptu kind; at the Palace Supper…table:

   'Jamais dans Athene et dans Rome       On n'eut de plus beaux jours; ni

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