a little tour in france-第4节
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eligible。 At present； indeed； when once you have caught a glimpse of the stout； serious Romanesque tower； … which is not high； but strong； … you feel that the building has something to say； and that you must stop to listen to it。 Within； it has a vast and splendid nave； of immense height； … the nave of a cathedral； … with a shallow choir and transepts； and some admir… able old glass。 I spent half an hour there one morn… ing； listening to what the church had to say； in perfect solitude。 Not a worshipper entered； … not even an old man with a broom。 I have always thought there is a sex in fine buildings； and Saint Julian； with its noble nave； is of the gender of the name of its patron。
It was that same morning； I think； that I went in search of the old houses of Tours； for the town con… tains several goodly specimens of the domestic archi… tecture of the past。 The dwelling to which the average Anglo…Saxon will most promptly direct his steps； and the only one I have space to mention； is the so…called Maison de Tristan l'Hermite； … a gentleman whom the readers of 〃Quentin Durward〃 will not have forgotten； … the hangman…in…ordinary to the great King Louis XI。 Unfortunately the house of Tristan is not the house of Tristan at all； this illusion has been cruelly dispelled。 There are no illusions left； at all； in the good city of Tours； with regard to Louis XI。 His terrible castle of Plessis； the picture of which sends a shiver through the youthful reader of Scott； has been reduced to sub… urban insignificance； and the residence of his _triste compere；_ on the front of which a festooned rope figures as a motive for decoration； is observed to have been erected in the succeeding century。 The Maison de Tristan may be visited for itself； however； if not for Walter Scott； it is an exceedingly picturesque old facade； to which you pick your way through a narrow and tortuous street； … a street terminating； a little be… yond it； in the walk beside the river。 An elegant Gothic doorway is let into the rusty…red brick…work； and strange little beasts crouch at the angles of the windows； which are surmounted by a tall graduated gable； pierced with a small orifice； where the large surface of brick； lifted out of the shadow of the street； looks yellow and faded。 The whole thing is disfigured and decayed； but it is a capital subject for a sketch in colors。 Only I must wish the sketcher better luck … or a better temper … than my own。 If he ring the bell to be admitted to see the court； which I believe is more sketchable still； let him have patience to wait till the bell is answered。 He can do the outside while they are coming。
The Maison de Tristan； I say； may be visited for itself； but I hardly know what the remnants of Plessis… les…Tours may be visited for。 To reach them you wander through crooked suburban lanes； down the course of the Loire； to a rough； undesirable； incon… gruous spot； where a small； crude building of red brick is pointed out to you by your cabman （if you happen to drive） as the romantic abode of a super… stitious king； and where a strong odor of pigsties and other unclean things so prostrates you for the moment that you have no energy to protest against the obvious fiction。 You enter a yard encumbered with rubbish and a defiant dog； and an old woman emerges from a shabby lodge and assures you that you are indeed in an historic place。 The red brick building； which looks like a small factory； rises on the ruins of the favorite residence of the dreadful Louis。 It is now occupied by a company of night…scavengers； whose huge carts are drawn up in a row before it。 I know not whether this be what is called the irony of fate； at any rate； the effect of it is to accentuate strongly the fact （and through the most susceptible of our senses） that there is no honor for the authors of great wrongs。 The dreadful Louis is reduced simply to an offence to the nostrils。 The old woman shows you a few fragments； … several dark； damp； much…encumbered vaults； de… nominated dungeons； and an old tower staircase； in good condition。 There are the outlines of the old moat； there is also the outline of the old guard…room； which is now a stable； and there are other vague out… lines and inconsequent lumps； which I have forgotten。 You need all your imagination； and even then you cannot make out that Plessis was a castle of large ex… tent； though the old woman； as your eye wanders over the neighboring _potagers；_ talks a good deal about the gardens and the park。 The place looks mean and flat； and as you drive away you scarcely know whether to be glad or sorry that all those bristling horrors have been reduced to the commonplace。
A certain flatness of impression awaits you also； I think； at Marmoutier； which is the other indisuensable excursion in the near neighborhood of Tours。 The remains of this famous abbey lie on the other bank of the stream； about a mile and a half from the town。 You follow the edge of the big brown river； of a fine afternoon you will be glad to go further still。 The abbey has gone the way of most abbeys； but the place is a restoration as well as a ruin； inasmuch as the sisters of the Sacred Heart have erected a terribly modern convent here。 A large Gothic doorway； in a high fragment of ancient wall； admits you to a garden… like enclosure； of great extent； from which you are further introduced into an extraordinarily tidy little parlor； where two good nuns sit at work。 One of these came out with me； and showed me over the place； … a very definite little woman； with pointed features； an intensely distinct enunciation； and those pretty man… ners which （for whatever other teachings it may be responsible） the Catholic church so often instils into its functionaries。 I have never seen a woman who had got her lesson better than this little trotting； murmur… ing； edifying nun。 The interest； of Marmoutier to…day is not so much an interest of vision； so to speak； as an interest of reflection； … that is； if you choose to reflect （for instance） upon the wondrous legend of the seven sleepers （you may see where they lie in a row）； who lived together … they were brothers and cousins … in primitive piety； in the sanctuary constructed by the blessed Saint Martin （emulous of his precursor； Saint Gatianus）； in the face of the hillside that overhung the Loire； and who； twenty…five years after his death； yielded up their seven souls at the same moment； and enjoyed the curious privilege of retaining in their faces； in spite of this process； the rosy tints of life。 The abbey of Marmoutier； which sprung from the grottos in the cliff to which Saint Gatianus and Saint Martin re… tired to pray； was therefore the creation of the latter worthy； as the other great abbey； in the town proper； was the monument of his repose。 The cliff is still there； and a winding staircase； in the latest taste； en… ables you conveniently to explore its recesses。 These sacred niches are scooped out of the rock； and will give you an impression if you cannot do without one。 You will feel them to be sufficiently venerable when you learn that the particular pigeon…hole of Saint Gatianus； the first Christian missionary to Gaul； dates from the third century。 They have been dealt with as the Catholic church deals with most of such places to… day； polished and furnished up； labelled and ticketed； … _edited；_ with notes； in short； like an old book。 The process is a mistake； … the early editions had more sanctity。 The modern buildings （of the Sacred Heart）； on which you look down from these points of vantage； are in the vulgar taste which seems doomed to stamp itself on all new Catholic work； but there was never… theless a great sweetness in the scene。 The afternoon was lovely； and it was flushing to a close。 The large garden stretched beneath us； blooming with fruit and wine and succulent vegetables； and beyond it flowed the shining river。 The air was still； the shadows were long； and the place； after all； was full of memories； most of which might pass for virtuous。 It certainly was better than Plessis…les…Tours。
IV。
Your business at Tours is to make excursions； and if you make them all； you will be very well occupied。 Touraine is rich in antiquities； and an hour's drive from the town in almost any direction will bring you to the knowledge of some curious fragment of domestic or ecclesiastical architecture； some turreted manor； some lonely tower； some gabled village； or historic site。 Even； however； if you do everything； … which was not my case； … you cannot hope to relate everything； and； fortunately for you； the excursions divide them… selves into the greater and the less。 You may achieve most of the greater in a week or two； but a summer in Touraine （which； by the way must be a charming thing） would contain none too many days for the others。 If you come down to Tours from Paris； your best economy is to spend a few days at Blois； where a clumsy； but rather attractive little inn； on the edge of the river； will offer you a certain amount of that familiar and intermittent hospitality which a few weeks spent in the French provinces teaches you to regard as the highest attainable form of accommodation。 Such an economy I was unable to practise。 I could only
