a little tour in france-第20节
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has （in its nobleness） the rare distinction of being a production of our own time。 On the south side stands the tomb of Francis II。； the last of the Dukes of Brittany； and of his second wife； Margaret of Foix； erected in 1507 by their daughter Anne； whom we have encountered already at the Chateau de Nantes； where she was born； at Langeais； where she married her first husband； at Amboise； where she lost him； at Blois； where she married her second； the 〃good〃 Louis XII。； who divorced an impeccable spouse to make room for her； and where she herself died。 Trans… ferred to the cathedral from a demolished convent； this monument； the masterpiece of Michel Colomb； author of the charming tomb of the children of Charles VIII。 and the aforesaid Anne； which we admired at Saint Gatien of Tours； is one of the most brilliant works of the French Renaissance。 It has a splendid effect； and is in perfect preservation。 A great table of black marble supports the reclining figures of the duke and duchess； who lie there peacefully and majestically； in their robes and crowns； with their heads each on a cushion； the pair of which are supported； from behind； by three； charming little kneeling angels； at the foot of the quiet couple are a lion and a greyhound； with heraldic devices。 At each of the angles of the table is a large figure in white marble of a woman elaborately dressed； with a symbolic meaning； and these figures； with their contemporary faces and clothes； which give them the air of realistic portraits； are truthful and liv… ing； if not remarkably beautiful。 Round the sides of the tomb are small images of the apostles。 There is a kind of masculine completeness in the work； and a certain robustness of taste。
In nothing were the sculptors of the Renaissance more fortunate than in being in advance of us with their tombs： they have left us noting to say in regard to the great final contrast； … the contrast between the immobility of death and the trappings and honors that survive。 They expressed in every way in which it was possible to express it the solemnity； of their conviction that the Marble image was a part of the personal greatness of the defunct； and the protection； the re… demption； of his memory。 A modern tomb； in com… parison； is a sceptical affair； it insists too little on the honors。 I say this in the face of the fact that one has only to step across the cathedral of Nantes to stand in the presence of one of the purest and most touching of modern tombs。 Catholic Brittany has erected in the opposite transept a monument to one of the most devoted of her sons； General de Lamoriciere； the de… fender of the Pope； the vanquished of Castelfidardo。 This noble work； from the hand of Paul Dubois； one of the most interesting of that new generation of sculp… tors who have revived in France an art of which our overdressed century had begun to despair； has every merit but the absence of a certain prime feeling。 It is the echo of an earlier tune； … an echo with a beauti… ful cadence。 Under a Renaissance canopy of white marble； elaborately worked with arabesques and che… rubs； in a relief so low that it gives the work a cer… tain look of being softened and worn by time； lies the body of the Breton soldier； with； a crucifix clasped to his breast and a shroud thrown over his body。 At each of the angles sits a figure in bronze； the two best of which； representing Charity and Military Courage； had given me extraordinary pleasure when they were exhibited （in the clay） in the Salon of 1876。 They are admirably cast； and they have a certain greatness： the one； a serene； robust young mother； beautiful in line and attitude； the other； a lean and vigilant young man； in a helmet that overshadows his serious eyes； resting an outstretched arm； an admirable military member； upon the hilt of a sword。 These figures con… tain abundant assurance that M。 Paul Dubois has been attentive to Michael Angelo； whom we have all heard called a splendid example but a bad model。 The visor…shadowed face of his warrior is more or less a reminiscence of the figure on the tomb of Lorenzo de' Medici at Florence； but it is doubtless none the worse for that。 The interest of the work of Paul Dubois is its peculiar seriousness； a kind of moral good faith which is not the commonest feature of French art； and which； united as it is in this case with exceeding knowledge and a remarkable sense of form； produces an impression； of deep refinement。 The whole monu… ment is a proof of exquisitely careful study； but I am not sure that this impression on the part of the spec… tator is altogether a happy one。 It explains much of its great beauty； and it also explains； perhaps； a little of a certain weakness。 That word； however； is scarcely in place； I only mean that M。 Dubois has made a vi… sible effort； which has been most fruitful。 Simplicity is not always strength； and our complicated modern genius contains treasures of intention。 This fathomless modern element is an immense charm on the part of M。 Paul Dubois。 I am lost in admiration of the deep aesthetic experience； the enlightenment of taste； re… vealed by such work。 After that； I only hope that Giuseppe Garibaldi may have a monument as fair。
XVI。
To go from Nantes to La Rochelle you travel straight southward； across the historic _bocage_ of La Vendee； the home of royalist bush…fighting。 The country； which is exceedingly pretty； bristles with copses； orchards； hedges； and with trees more spread… ing and sturdy than the traveller is apt to deem the feathery foliage of France。 It is true that as I pro… ceeded it flattened out a good deal； so that for an hour there was a vast featureless plain； which offered me little entertainment beyond the general impression that I was approaching the Bay of Biscay （from which； in reality； I was yet far distant）。 As we drew near La Rochelle； however； the prospect brightened con… siderably； and the railway kept its course beside a charming little canal； or canalized river； bordered with trees； and with small； neat； bright…colored； and yet old…fashioned cottages and villas； which stood back on the further side； behind small gardens； hedges； painted palings； patches of turf。 The whole effect was Dutch and delightful； and in being delightful； though not in being Dutch； it prepared me for the charms of La Rochelle； which from the moment I entered it I perceived to be a fascinating little town； a most original mixture of brightness and dulness。 Part of its brightness comes from its being extra… ordinarily clean； … in which； after all； it _is_ Dutch； a virtue not particularly noticeable at Bourges； Le Mans； and Angers。 Whenever I go southward； if it be only twenty miles； I begin to look out for the south； pre… pared as I am to find the careless grace of those lati… tudes even in things of which it may； be said that they may be south of something； but are not southern。 To go from Boston to New York （in this state of mind） is almost as soft a sensation as descending the Italian side； of the Alps； and to go from New York to Philadelphia is to enter a zone of tropical luxuriance and warmth。 Given this absurd disposition； I could not fail to flatter myself； on reaching La Rochelle； that I was already in the Midi； and to perceive in everything； in the language of the country； the _ca… ractere meridional。_ Really； a great many things had a hint of it。 For that matter； it seems to me that to arrive in the south at a bound … to wake up there； as it were … would be a very imperfect pleasure。 The full pleasure is to approach by stages and gradations； to observe the successive shades of difference by which it ceases to be the north。 These shades are exceedingly fine； but your true south…lover has an eye for them all。 If he perceive them at New York and Philadelphia； … we imagine him boldly as liberated from Boston； … how could he fail to perceive them at La Rochelle？ The streets of this dear little city are lined with arcades； … good； big； straddling arcades of stone； such as befit a land of hot summers； and which recalled to me； not to go further； the dusky portions of Bayonne。 It contains； moreover； a great wide _place d'armes_； which looked for all the world like the piazza of some dead Italian town； empty； sunny； grass…grown； with a row of yellow houses overhanging it； an unfrequented cafe； with a striped awning； a tall； cold； florid； uninteresting cathedral of the eighteenth century on one side； and on the other a shady walk； which forms part of an old rampart。 I followed this walk for some time； under the stunted trees； beside the grass…covered bastions； it is very charming； wind… ing and wandering； always with trees。 Beneath the rampart is a tidal river； and on the other side； for a long distance； the mossy walls of the immense garden of a seminary。 Three hundred years ago； La Rochelle was the great French stronghold of Protestantism； but to…day it appears to be a'nursery of Papists。
The walk upon the rampart led me round to one of the gatesi of the town； where I found some small modern； fortifications and sundry red…legged soldiers； and； beyond the fortifications； another shady walk； … a _mail_； as the French say； as well as a _champ de manoeuvre_； … on which latter expanse the
