a little tour in france-第14节
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purpose of my stay； I thought it vain； while I started for Bourges； to determine to which category that little expedition might belong。 It was not till the third day that I re… turned to Tours； and the distance； traversed for the most part after dark； was even greater than I had sup… posed。 That； however； was partly the fault of a tire… some wait at Vierzon； where I had more than enough time to dine； very badly； at the _buffet_； and to observe the proceedings of a family who had entered my rail… way carriage at Tours and had conversed unreservedly； for my benefit； all the way from that station； … a family whom it entertained me to assign to the class of _petite noblesse de province_。 Their noble origin was confirmed by the way they all made _maigre_ in the refreshment oom （it happened to be a Friday）； as if it had been possible to do anything else。 They ate two or three omelets apiece； and ever so many little cakes； while the positive； talkative mother watched her children as the waiter handed about the roast fowl。 I was destined to share the secrets of this family to the end； for when I had taken place in the empty train that was in waiting to convey us to Bourges； the same vigilant woman pushed them all on top of me into my com… partment； though the carriages on either side con… tained no travellers at all。 It was better； I found； to have dined （even on omelets and little cakes） at the station at Vierzon than at the hotel at Bourges； which； when I reached it at nine o'clock at night； did not strike me as the prince of hotels。 The inns in the smaller provincial towns in France are all； as the term is； commercial； and the _commis…voyageur_ is in triumphant possession。 I saw a great deal of him for several weeks after this； for he was apparently the only traveller in the southern provinces； and it was my daily fate to sit opposite to him at tables d'hote and in railway trains。 He may be known by two infallible signs； … his hands are fat； and he tucks his napkin into his shirt…collar。 In spite of these idiosyncrasies； he seemed to me a reserved and inoffensive person； with singularly little of the demonstrative good…humor that he has been described as possessing。 I saw no one who re… minded me of Balzac's 〃illustre Gaudissart；〃 and in… deed； in the course of a month's journey through a large part of France； I heard so little desultory con… versation that I wondered whether a change had not come over the spirit of the people。 They seemed to me as silent as Americans when Americans have not been 〃introduced；〃 and infinitely less addicted to ex… changing remarks in railway trains and at tables d'hote the colloquial and cursory English； a fact per… haps not worth mentioning were it not at variance with that reputation which the French have long en… joyed of being a pre…eminently sociable nation。 The common report of the character of a people is； how… ever； an indefinable product； and it is； apt to strike the traveller who observes for himself as very wide of the mark。 The English； who have for ages been de… scribed （mainly by the French） as the dumb； stiff； unapproachable race； present to…day a remarkable ap… pearance of good…humor and garrulity； and are dis… tinguished by their facility of intercourse。 On the other hand； any one who has seen half a dozen Frenchmen pass a whole day together in a railway… carriage without breaking silence is forced to believe that the traditional reputation of these gentlemen is simply the survival of some primitive formula。 It was true； doubtless； before the Revolution； but there have been great changes since then。 The question of which is the better taste； to talk to strangers or to hold your tongue； is a matter apart； I incline to believe that the French reserve is the result of a more definite con… ception of social behavior。 I allude to it only be… came it is at variance with the national fame； and at the same time is compatible with a very easy view of life in certain other directions。 On some of these latter points the Boule d'Or at Bourges was full of instruction； boasting； as it did； of a hall of reception in which； amid old boots that had been brought to be cleaned； old linen that was being sorted for the wash； and lamps of evil odor that were awaiting replenish… ment； a strange； familiar； promiscuous household life went forward。 Small scullions in white caps and aprons slept upon greasy benches； the Boots sat staring at you while you fumbled； helpless； in a row of pigeon… holes； for your candlestick or your key； and； amid the coming and going of the _commis…voyageurs_； a little sempstress bent over the under…garments of the hostess； … the latter being a heavy； stem； silent woman； who looked at people very hard。
It was not to be looked at in that manner that one had come all the way from Tours； so that within ten minutes after my arrival I sallied out into the dark… ness to get somehow and somewhere a happier im… pression。 However late in the evening I may arrive at a place； I cannot go to bed without an impression。 The natural place； at Bourges； to look for one seemed to be the cathedral； which； moreover； was the only thing that could account for my presence _dans cette galere_。 I turned out of a small square； in front of the hotel； and walked up a narrow； sloping street； paved with big； rough stones and guiltless of a foot…way。 It was a splendid starlight night； the stillness of a sleeping _ville de province_ was over everything； I had the whole place to myself。 I turned to my right； at the top of the street； where presently a short； vague lane brought me into sight of the cathedral。 I ap… proached it obliquely； from behind； it loomed up in the darkness above me； enormous and sublime。 It stands on the top of the large but not lofty eminence over which Bourges is scattered； … a very good position； as French cathedrals go； for they are not all so nobly situated as Chartres and Laon。 On the side on which I approached it （the south） it is tolerably well ex… posed； though the precinct is shabby； in front； it is rather too much shut in。 These defects； however； it makes up for on the north side and behind； where it presents itself in the most admirable manner to the garden of the Archeveche； which has been arranged as a public walk； with the usual formal alleys of the _jardin francais_。 I must add that I appreciated these points only on the following day。 As I stood there in the light of the stars； many of which had an autumnal sharpness； while others were shooting over the heavens； the huge； rugged vessel of the church overhung me in very much the same way as the black hull of a ship at sea would overhang a solitary swimmer。 It seemed colossal； stupendous； a dark leviathan。
The next morning； which was lovely； I lost no time in going back to it； and found； with satisfaction； that the daylight did it no injury。 The cathedral of Bourges is indeed magnificently huge； and if it is a good deal wanting in lightness and grace it is perhaps only the more imposing。 I read in the excellent hand… book of M。 Joanne that it was projected 〃_des_ 1172；〃 but commenced only in the first years of the thirteenth century。 〃The nave〃 the writer adds； 〃was finished _tant bien que mal； faute de ressources；_ the facade is of the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries in its lower part； and of the fourteenth in its upper。〃 The allusion to the nave means the omission of the transepts。 The west front consists of two vast but imperfect towers； one of which （the south） is immensely buttressed； so that its outline slopes forward； like that of a pyramid； being the taller of the two。 If they had spires； these towers would be prodigious； as it is； given the rest of the church； they are wanting in elevation。 There are five deeply recessed portals； all in a row； each surmounted with a gable； the gable over the central door being exceptionally high。 Above the porches； which give the measure of its width； the front rears itself； piles itself； on a great scale； carried up by gal… leries； arches； windows； sculptures； and supported by the extraordinarily thick buttresses of which I have spoken； and which； though they embellish it with deep shadows thrown sidewise； do not improve its style。 The portals； especially the middle one； are extremely interesting； they are covered with curious early sculp… tures。 The middle one； however； I must describe alone。 It has no less than six rows of figures； … the others have four； … some of which； notably the upper one； are still in their places。 The arch at the top has three tiers of elaborate imagery。 The upper of these is divided by the figure of Christ in judgment； of great size； stiff and terrible； with outstretched arms。 On either side of him are ranged three or four angels； with the instruments of the Passion。 Beneath him； in the second frieze； stands the angel of justice； with his scales； and on either side of him is the vision of the last judgment。 The good prepare； with infinite titilla… tion and complacency； to ascend to the skies； while the bad are dragged； pushed； hurled； stuffed； crammed； into pits and caldrons of fire。 There is a charming detail in this section。 Beside the angel； on； the right； where the wicked are the prey of demons； stands a litt
