a little tour in france-第12节
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be ranked according to charm。 For beauty of detail it comes after Blois and Chenon… ceaux； but it comes before Amboise and Chambord。 On the other hand； of course； it is inferior in majesty to either of these vast structures。 Like Chenonceaux； it is a watery place； though it is more meagrely moated than the little chateau on the Cher。 It consists of a large square _corps de logis_； with a round tower at each angle； rising out of a somewhat too slumberous pond。 The water … the water of the Indre … sur… rounds it； but it is only on one side that it bathes its feet in the moat。 On one of the others there is a little terrace； treated as a garden； and in front there is a wide court； formed by a wing which； on the right； comes forward。 This front； covered with sculptures； is of the richest； stateliest effect。 The court is ap… proachcd by a bridge over the pond； and the house would reflect itself in this wealth of water if the water were a trifle less opaque。 But there is a certain stagnation … it affects more senses than one … about the picturesque pools of Azay。 On the hither side of the bridge is a garden； overshadowed by fine old sycamores； … a garden shut in by greenhouses and by a fine last…century gateway； flanked with twin lodges。 Beyond the chateau and the standing waters behind it is a so…called _parc_； which； however； it must be con… fessed； has little of park…like beauty。 The old houses （many of them； that is） remain in France； but the old timber does not remain； and the denuded aspect of the few acres that surround the chateaux of Touraine is pitiful to the traveller who has learned to take the measure of such things from the manors and castles of England。 The domain of the lordly Chaumont is that of an English suburban villa； and in that and in other places there is little suggestion； in the untended aspect of walk and lawns； of the vigilant British gardener。 The manor of Azay； as seen to…day； dates from the early part of the sixteenth century； and the industrious Abbe Chevalier； in his very entertaining though slightly rose…colored book on Touraine；* （* Promenades pittoresque en Touraine。 Tours： 1869。） speaks of it as； 〃perhaps the purest expres… sion of the _belle Renaissance francaise_。〃 〃Its height；〃 he goes on； 〃is divided between two stories； terminat… ing under the roof in a projecting entablature which imitates a row of machicolations。 Carven chimneys and tall dormer windows； covered with imagery； rise from the roofs； turrets on brackets； of elegant shape； hang with the greatest lightness from the angles of the building。 The soberness of the main lines； the harmony of the empty spaces and those that are filled out； the prominence of the crowning parts； the delicacy of all the details； constitute an enchanting whole。〃 And then the Abbe speaks of the admirable staircase which adorns the north front； and which； with its extention； inside； constitutes the principal treasure of Azay。 The staircase passes beneath one of the richest of porticos； … a portico over which a monumental salamander indulges in the most deco… rative contortions。 The sculptured vaults of stone which cover the windings of the staircase within； the fruits； flowers； ciphers； heraldic signs； are of the noblest effect。 The interior of the chateau is rich； comfortable； extremely modern； but it makes no picture that compares with its external face； about which； with its charming proportions； its profuse yet not extravagant sculpture； there is something very tranquil and pure。 I took particular fancy to the roof； high； steep； old； with its slope of bluish slate； and the way the weather…worn chimneys seemed to grow out of it； like living things out of a deep soil。 The only defect of the house is the blankness and bareness of its walls； which have none of those delicate parasites attached to them that one likes to see on the surface of old dwellings。 It is true that this bareness results in a kind of silvery whiteness of complexion； which carries out the tone of the quiet pools and even that of the scanty and shadeless park。
IX。
I hardly know what to say about the tone of Langeais； which； though I have left it to the end of my sketch； formed the objective point of the first ex… cursion I made from Tours。 Langeais is rather dark and gray； it is perhaps the simplest and most severe of all the castles of the Loire。 I don't know why I should have gone to see it before any other； unless it be because I remembered the Duchesse de Langeais； who figures in several of Balzac's novels； and found this association very potent。 The Duchesse de Lan… geais is a somewhat transparent fiction； but the castle from which Balzac borrowed the title of his heroine is an extremely solid fact。 My doubt just above as to whether I should pronounce it excep… tionally grey came from my having seen it under a sky which made most things look dark。 I have； how… ever； a very kindly memory of that moist and melan… choly afternoon； which was much more autumnal than many of the days that followed it。 Langeais lies down the Loire； near the river； on the opposite side from Tours； and to go to it you will spend half an hour in the train。 You pass on the way the Chateau de Luynes； which； with its round towers catching the afternoon light； looks uncommonly well on a hill at a distance； you pass also the ruins of the castle of Cinq…Mars； the ancestral dwelling of the young favorite of Louis XIII。； the victim； of Richelieu； the hero of Alfred de Vigny's novel； which is usually re… commended to young ladies engaged in the study of French。 Langeais is very imposing and decidedly sombre； it marks the transition from the architecture of defence to that of elegance。 It rises； massive and perpendicular； out of the centre of the village to which it gives its name； and which it entirely domi… nates； so that； as you stand before it； in the crooked and empty street； there is no resource for you but to stare up at its heavy overhanging cornice and at the huge towers surmounted with extinguishers of slate。 If you follow this street to the end； however； you encounter in abundance the usual embellishments of a French village： little ponds or tanks； with women on their knees on the brink； pounding and thumping a lump of saturated linen； brown old crones； the tone of whose facial hide makes their nightcaps （worn by day） look dazzling； little alleys perforating the thick… ness of a row of cottages； and showing you behind； as a glimpse； the vividness of a green garden。 In the rear of the castle rises a hill which must formerly have been occupied by some of its appurtenances； and which indeed is still partly enclosed within its court。 You may walk round this eminence； which； with the small houses of the village at its base； shuts in the castle from behind。 The enclosure is not defiantly guarded； however； for a small； rough path； which you presently reach； leads up to an open gate。 This gate admits you to a vague and rather limited _parc_； which covers the crest of the hill； and through which you may walk into the gardens of castle。 These gardens； of small extent； confront the dark walls with their brilliant parterres； and； covering the gradual slope of the hill； form； as it were； the fourth side of the court。 This is the stateliest view of the chateau； which looks to you sufficiently grim and gray as； after asking leave of a neat young woman who sallies out to learn your errand； you sit there on a garden bench and take the measure of the three tall towers attached to this inner front and forming sever… ally the cage of a staircase。 The huge bracketed cor… nice （one of the features of Langeais） which is merely ornamental； as it is not machicolated； though it looks so； is continued on the inner face as well。 The whole thing has a fine feudal air； though it was erected on the rains of feudalism。
The main event in the history of the castle is the marriage of Anne of Brittany to her first husband； Charles VIII。； which took place in its great hall in 1491。 Into this great hall we were introduced by the neat young woman； … into this great hall and into sundry other halls； winding staircases； galleries； chambers。 The cicerone of Langeais is in too great a hurry； the fact is pointed out in the excellent Guide… Joanne。 This ill…dissimulated vice； however； is to be observed； in the country of the Loire； in every one who carries a key。 It is true that at Langeais there is no great occasion to indulge in the tourist's weak… ness of dawdling； for the apartments； though they contain many curious odds and ends of； antiquity； are not of first…rate interest。 They are cold and musty； indeed； with that touching smell of old furniture； as all apartments should be through which the insatiate American wanders in the rear of a bored domestic； pausing to stare at a faded tapestry or to read the name on the frame of some simpering portrait。
To return to Tours my companion and I had counted on a train which （as is not uncommon in France） existed only in the 〃Indicateur des Chemins de Fer；〃 and instead of waiting for another we engaged a vehicle to take us home。 A sorry _carriole_ or _patache_ it proved to be； with the accessories of a lumbering white mare and a little wizened； ancient peasant； who
