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CHAPTER X … THE HURRICANE

MARCH 1889







THE so…called harbour of Apia is formed in part by a recess of the 

coast…line at Matautu; in part by the slim peninsula of Mulinuu; 

and in part by the fresh waters of the Mulivai and Vaisingano。  The 

barrier reef … that singular breakwater that makes so much of the 

circuit of Pacific islands … is carried far to sea at Matautu and 

Mulinuu; inside of these two horns it runs sharply landward; and 

between them it is burst or dissolved by the fresh water。  The 

shape of the enclosed anchorage may be compared to a high…

shouldered jar or bottle with a funnel mouth。  Its sides are almost 

everywhere of coral; for the reef not only bounds it to seaward and 

forms the neck and mouth; but skirting about the beach; it forms 

the bottom also。  As in the bottle of commerce; the bottom is re…

entrant; and the shore…reef runs prominently forth into the basin 

and makes a dangerous cape opposite the fairway of the entrance。  

Danger is; therefore; on all hands。  The entrance gapes three 

cables wide at the narrowest; and the formidable surf of the 

Pacific thunders both outside and in。  There are days when speech 

is difficult in the chambers of shore…side houses; days when no 

boat can land; and when men are broken by stroke of sea against the 

wharves。  As I write these words; three miles in the mountains; and 

with the land…breeze still blowing from the island summit; the 

sound of that vexed harbour hums in my ears。  Such a creek in my 

native coast of Scotland would scarce be dignified with the mark of 

an anchor in the chart; but in the favoured climate of Samoa; and 

with the mechanical regularity of the winds in the Pacific; it 

forms; for ten or eleven months out of the twelve; a safe if hardly 

a commodious port。  The ill…found island traders ride there with 

their insufficient moorings the year through; and discharge; and 

are loaded; without apprehension。  Of danger; when it comes; the 

glass gives timely warning; and that any modern warship; furnished 

with the power of steam; should have been lost in Apia; belongs not 

so much to nautical as to political history。



The weather throughout all that winter (the turbulent summer of the 

islands) was unusually fine; and the circumstance had been 

commented on as providential; when so many Samoans were lying on 

their weapons in the bush。  By February it began to break in 

occasional gales。  On February 10th a German brigantine was driven 

ashore。  On the 14th the same misfortune befell an American 

brigantine and a schooner。  On both these days; and again on the 

7th March; the men…of…war must steam to their anchors。  And it was 

in this last month; the most dangerous of the twelve; that man's 

animosities crowded that indentation of the reef with costly; 

populous; and vulnerable ships。



I have shown; perhaps already at too great a length; how violently 

passion ran upon the spot; how high this series of blunders and 

mishaps had heated the resentment of the Germans against all other 

nationalities and of all other nationalities against the Germans。  

But there was one country beyond the borders of Samoa where the 

question had aroused a scarce less angry sentiment。  The breach of 

the Washington Congress; the evidence of Sewall before a sub…

committee on foreign relations; the proposal to try Klein before a 

military court; and the rags of Captain Hamilton's flag; had 

combined to stir the people of the States to an unwonted fervour。  

Germany was for the time the abhorred of nations。  Germans in 

America publicly disowned the country of their birth。  In Honolulu; 

so near the scene of action; German and American young men fell to 

blows in the street。  In the same city; from no traceable source; 

and upon no possible authority; there arose a rumour of tragic news 

to arrive by the next occasion; that the NIPSIC had opened fire on 

the ADLER; and the ADLER had sunk her on the first reply。  

Punctually on the day appointed; the news came; and the two 

nations; instead of being plunged into war; could only mingle tears 

over the loss of heroes。



By the second week in March three American ships were in Apia bay; 

… the NIPSIC; the VANDALIA; and the TRENTON; carrying the flag of 

Rear…Admiral Kimberley; three German; … the ADLER; the EBER; and 

the OLGA; and one British; … the CALLIOPE; Captain Kane。  Six 

merchant…men; ranging from twenty…five up to five hundred tons; and 

a number of small craft; further encumbered the anchorage。  Its 

capacity is estimated by Captain Kane at four large ships; and the 

latest arrivals; the VANDALIA and TRENTON; were in consequence 

excluded; and lay without in the passage。  Of the seven war…ships; 

the seaworthiness of two was questionable:  the TRENTON'S; from an 

original defect in her construction; often reported; never remedied 

… her hawse…pipes leading in on the berth…deck; the EBER'S; from an 

injury to her screw in the blow of February 14th。  In this 

overcrowding of ships in an open entry of the reef; even the eye of 

the landsman could spy danger; and Captain…Lieutenant Wallis of the 

EBER openly blamed and lamented; not many hours before the 

catastrophe; their helpless posture。  Temper once more triumphed。  

The army of Mataafa still hung imminent behind the town; the German 

quarter was still daily garrisoned with fifty sailors from the 

squadron; what was yet more influential; Germany and the States; at 

least in Apia bay; were on the brink of war; viewed each other with 

looks of hatred; and scarce observed the letter of civility。  On 

the day of the admiral's arrival; Knappe failed to call on him; and 

on the morrow called on him while he was on shore。  The slight was 

remarked and resented; and the two squadrons clung more obstinately 

to their dangerous station。



On the 15th the barometer fell to 29。11 in。 by 2 P。M。  This was the 

moment when every sail in port should have escaped。  Kimberley; who 

flew the only broad pennant; should certainly have led the way:  he 

clung; instead; to his moorings; and the Germans doggedly followed 

his example:  semi…belligerents; daring each other and the violence 

of heaven。  Kane; less immediately involved; was led in error by 

the report of residents and a fallacious rise in the glass; he 

stayed with the others; a misjudgment that was like to cost him 

dear。  All were moored; as is the custom in Apia; with two anchors 

practically east and west; clear hawse to the north; and a kedge 

astern。  Topmasts were struck; and the ships made snug。  The night 

closed black; with sheets of rain。  By midnight it blew a gale; and 

by the morning watch; a tempest。  Through what remained of 

darkness; the captains impatiently expected day; doubtful if they 

were dragging; steaming gingerly to their moorings; and afraid to 

steam too much。



Day came about six; and presented to those on shore a seizing and 

terrific spectacle。  In the pressure of the squalls the bay was 

obscured as if by midnight; but between them a great part of it was 

clearly if darkly visible amid driving mist and rain。  The wind 

blew into the harbour mouth。  Naval authorities describe it as of 

hurricane force。  It had; however; few or none of the effects on 

shore suggested by that ominous word; and was successfully 

withstood by trees and buildings。  The agitation of the sea; on the 

other hand; surpassed experience and description。  Seas that might 

have awakened surprise and terror in the midst of the Atlantic 

ranged bodily and (it seemed to observers) almost without 

diminution into the belly of that flask…shaped harbour; and the 

war…ships were alternately buried from view in the trough; or seen 

standing on end against the breast of billows。



The TRENTON at daylight still maintained her position in the neck 

of the bottle。  But five of the remaining ships tossed; already 

close to the bottom; in a perilous and helpless crowd; threatening 

ruin to each other as they tossed; threatened with a common and 

imminent destruction on the reefs。  Three had been already in 

collision:  the OLGA was injured in the quarter; the ADLER had lost 

her bowsprit; the NIPSIC had lost her smoke…stack; and was making 

steam with difficulty; maintaining her fire with barrels of pork; 

and the smoke and sparks pouring along the level of the deck。  For 

the seventh war…ship the day had come too late; the EBER had 

finished her last cruise; she was to be seen no more save by the 

eyes of divers。  A coral reef is not only an instrument of 

destruction; but a place of sepulchre; the submarine cliff is 

profoundly undercut; and presents the mouth of a huge antre in 

which the bodies of men and the hulls of ships are alike hurled 

down and buried。  The EBER had dragged anchors with the rest; her 

injured screw disabled her from steaming vigorously up; and a 

little before day sh

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