a footnote to history-第32节
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CHAPTER X … THE HURRICANE
MARCH 1889
THE so…called harbour of Apia is formed in part by a recess of the
coast…line at Matautu; in part by the slim peninsula of Mulinuu;
and in part by the fresh waters of the Mulivai and Vaisingano。 The
barrier reef … that singular breakwater that makes so much of the
circuit of Pacific islands … is carried far to sea at Matautu and
Mulinuu; inside of these two horns it runs sharply landward; and
between them it is burst or dissolved by the fresh water。 The
shape of the enclosed anchorage may be compared to a high…
shouldered jar or bottle with a funnel mouth。 Its sides are almost
everywhere of coral; for the reef not only bounds it to seaward and
forms the neck and mouth; but skirting about the beach; it forms
the bottom also。 As in the bottle of commerce; the bottom is re…
entrant; and the shore…reef runs prominently forth into the basin
and makes a dangerous cape opposite the fairway of the entrance。
Danger is; therefore; on all hands。 The entrance gapes three
cables wide at the narrowest; and the formidable surf of the
Pacific thunders both outside and in。 There are days when speech
is difficult in the chambers of shore…side houses; days when no
boat can land; and when men are broken by stroke of sea against the
wharves。 As I write these words; three miles in the mountains; and
with the land…breeze still blowing from the island summit; the
sound of that vexed harbour hums in my ears。 Such a creek in my
native coast of Scotland would scarce be dignified with the mark of
an anchor in the chart; but in the favoured climate of Samoa; and
with the mechanical regularity of the winds in the Pacific; it
forms; for ten or eleven months out of the twelve; a safe if hardly
a commodious port。 The ill…found island traders ride there with
their insufficient moorings the year through; and discharge; and
are loaded; without apprehension。 Of danger; when it comes; the
glass gives timely warning; and that any modern warship; furnished
with the power of steam; should have been lost in Apia; belongs not
so much to nautical as to political history。
The weather throughout all that winter (the turbulent summer of the
islands) was unusually fine; and the circumstance had been
commented on as providential; when so many Samoans were lying on
their weapons in the bush。 By February it began to break in
occasional gales。 On February 10th a German brigantine was driven
ashore。 On the 14th the same misfortune befell an American
brigantine and a schooner。 On both these days; and again on the
7th March; the men…of…war must steam to their anchors。 And it was
in this last month; the most dangerous of the twelve; that man's
animosities crowded that indentation of the reef with costly;
populous; and vulnerable ships。
I have shown; perhaps already at too great a length; how violently
passion ran upon the spot; how high this series of blunders and
mishaps had heated the resentment of the Germans against all other
nationalities and of all other nationalities against the Germans。
But there was one country beyond the borders of Samoa where the
question had aroused a scarce less angry sentiment。 The breach of
the Washington Congress; the evidence of Sewall before a sub…
committee on foreign relations; the proposal to try Klein before a
military court; and the rags of Captain Hamilton's flag; had
combined to stir the people of the States to an unwonted fervour。
Germany was for the time the abhorred of nations。 Germans in
America publicly disowned the country of their birth。 In Honolulu;
so near the scene of action; German and American young men fell to
blows in the street。 In the same city; from no traceable source;
and upon no possible authority; there arose a rumour of tragic news
to arrive by the next occasion; that the NIPSIC had opened fire on
the ADLER; and the ADLER had sunk her on the first reply。
Punctually on the day appointed; the news came; and the two
nations; instead of being plunged into war; could only mingle tears
over the loss of heroes。
By the second week in March three American ships were in Apia bay;
… the NIPSIC; the VANDALIA; and the TRENTON; carrying the flag of
Rear…Admiral Kimberley; three German; … the ADLER; the EBER; and
the OLGA; and one British; … the CALLIOPE; Captain Kane。 Six
merchant…men; ranging from twenty…five up to five hundred tons; and
a number of small craft; further encumbered the anchorage。 Its
capacity is estimated by Captain Kane at four large ships; and the
latest arrivals; the VANDALIA and TRENTON; were in consequence
excluded; and lay without in the passage。 Of the seven war…ships;
the seaworthiness of two was questionable: the TRENTON'S; from an
original defect in her construction; often reported; never remedied
… her hawse…pipes leading in on the berth…deck; the EBER'S; from an
injury to her screw in the blow of February 14th。 In this
overcrowding of ships in an open entry of the reef; even the eye of
the landsman could spy danger; and Captain…Lieutenant Wallis of the
EBER openly blamed and lamented; not many hours before the
catastrophe; their helpless posture。 Temper once more triumphed。
The army of Mataafa still hung imminent behind the town; the German
quarter was still daily garrisoned with fifty sailors from the
squadron; what was yet more influential; Germany and the States; at
least in Apia bay; were on the brink of war; viewed each other with
looks of hatred; and scarce observed the letter of civility。 On
the day of the admiral's arrival; Knappe failed to call on him; and
on the morrow called on him while he was on shore。 The slight was
remarked and resented; and the two squadrons clung more obstinately
to their dangerous station。
On the 15th the barometer fell to 29。11 in。 by 2 P。M。 This was the
moment when every sail in port should have escaped。 Kimberley; who
flew the only broad pennant; should certainly have led the way: he
clung; instead; to his moorings; and the Germans doggedly followed
his example: semi…belligerents; daring each other and the violence
of heaven。 Kane; less immediately involved; was led in error by
the report of residents and a fallacious rise in the glass; he
stayed with the others; a misjudgment that was like to cost him
dear。 All were moored; as is the custom in Apia; with two anchors
practically east and west; clear hawse to the north; and a kedge
astern。 Topmasts were struck; and the ships made snug。 The night
closed black; with sheets of rain。 By midnight it blew a gale; and
by the morning watch; a tempest。 Through what remained of
darkness; the captains impatiently expected day; doubtful if they
were dragging; steaming gingerly to their moorings; and afraid to
steam too much。
Day came about six; and presented to those on shore a seizing and
terrific spectacle。 In the pressure of the squalls the bay was
obscured as if by midnight; but between them a great part of it was
clearly if darkly visible amid driving mist and rain。 The wind
blew into the harbour mouth。 Naval authorities describe it as of
hurricane force。 It had; however; few or none of the effects on
shore suggested by that ominous word; and was successfully
withstood by trees and buildings。 The agitation of the sea; on the
other hand; surpassed experience and description。 Seas that might
have awakened surprise and terror in the midst of the Atlantic
ranged bodily and (it seemed to observers) almost without
diminution into the belly of that flask…shaped harbour; and the
war…ships were alternately buried from view in the trough; or seen
standing on end against the breast of billows。
The TRENTON at daylight still maintained her position in the neck
of the bottle。 But five of the remaining ships tossed; already
close to the bottom; in a perilous and helpless crowd; threatening
ruin to each other as they tossed; threatened with a common and
imminent destruction on the reefs。 Three had been already in
collision: the OLGA was injured in the quarter; the ADLER had lost
her bowsprit; the NIPSIC had lost her smoke…stack; and was making
steam with difficulty; maintaining her fire with barrels of pork;
and the smoke and sparks pouring along the level of the deck。 For
the seventh war…ship the day had come too late; the EBER had
finished her last cruise; she was to be seen no more save by the
eyes of divers。 A coral reef is not only an instrument of
destruction; but a place of sepulchre; the submarine cliff is
profoundly undercut; and presents the mouth of a huge antre in
which the bodies of men and the hulls of ships are alike hurled
down and buried。 The EBER had dragged anchors with the rest; her
injured screw disabled her from steaming vigorously up; and a
little before day sh