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But it does not appear he was at all expected to give with a good 

grace。  The dictionary is well stocked with expressions standing 

ready; like missiles; to be discharged upon the locusts … 〃troop of 

shamefaced ones;〃 〃you draw in your head like a tern;〃 〃you make 

your voice small like a whistle…pipe;〃 〃you beg like one 

delirious〃; and the verb PONGITAI; 〃to look cross;〃 is equipped 

with the pregnant rider; 〃as at the sight of beggars。〃



This insolence of beggars and the weakness of proprietors can only 

be illustrated by examples。  We have a girl in our service to whom 

we had given some finery; that she might wait at table; and (at her 

own request) some warm clothing against the cold mornings of the 

bush。  She went on a visit to her family; and returned in an old 

tablecloth; her whole wardrobe having been divided out among 

relatives in the course of twenty…four hours。  A pastor in the 

province of Atua; being a handy; busy man; bought a boat for a 

hundred dollars; fifty of which he paid down。  Presently after; 

relatives came to him upon a visit and took a fancy to his new 

possession。  〃We have long been wanting a boat;〃 said they。  〃Give 

us this one。〃  So; when the visit was done; they departed in the 

boat。  The pastor; meanwhile; travelled into Savaii the best way he 

could; sold a parcel of land; and begged mats among his other 

relatives; to pay the remainder of the price of the boat which was 

no longer his。  You might think this was enough; but some months 

later; the harpies; having broken a thwart; brought back the boat 

to be repaired and repainted by the original owner。



Such customs; it might be argued; being double…edged; will 

ultimately right themselves。  But it is otherwise in practice。  

Such folk as the pastor's harpy relatives will generally have a 

boat; and will never have paid for it; such men as the pastor may 

have sometimes paid for a boat; but they will never have one。  It 

is there as it is with us at home:  the measure of the abuse of 

either system is the blackness of the individual heart。  The same 

man; who would drive his poor relatives from his own door in 

England; would besiege in Samoa the doors of the rich; and the 

essence of the dishonesty in either case is to pursue one's own 

advantage and to be indifferent to the losses of one's neighbour。  

But the particular drawback of the Polynesian system is to depress 

and stagger industry。  To work more is there only to be more 

pillaged; to save is impossible。  The family has then made a good 

day of it when all are filled and nothing remains over for the crew 

of free…booters; and the injustice of the system begins to be 

recognised even in Samoa。  One native is said to have amassed a 

certain fortune; two clever lads have individually expressed to us 

their discontent with a system which taxes industry to pamper 

idleness; and I hear that in one village of Savaii a law has been 

passed forbidding gifts under the penalty of a sharp fine。



Under this economic regimen; the unpopularity of taxes; which 

strike all at the same time; which expose the industrious to a 

perfect siege of mendicancy; and the lazy to be actually condemned 

to a day's labour; may be imagined without words。  It is more 

important to note the concurrent relaxation of all sense of 

property。  From applying for help to kinsmen who are scarce 

permitted to refuse; it is but a step to taking from them (in the 

dictionary phrase) 〃without permission〃; from that to theft at 

large is but a hair's…breadth。







CHAPTER II … THE ELEMENTS OF DISCORD: FOREIGN







THE huge majority of Samoans; like other God…fearing folk in other 

countries; are perfectly content with their own manners。  And upon 

one condition; it is plain they might enjoy themselves far beyond 

the average of man。  Seated in islands very rich in food; the 

idleness of the many idle would scarce matter; and the provinces 

might continue to bestow their names among rival pretenders; and 

fall into war and enjoy that a while; and drop into peace and enjoy 

that; in a manner highly to be envied。  But the condition … that 

they should be let alone … is now no longer possible。  More than a 

hundred years ago; and following closely on the heels of Cook; an 

irregular invasion of adventurers began to swarm about the isles of 

the Pacific。  The seven sleepers of Polynesia stand; still but half 

aroused; in the midst of the century of competition。  And the 

island races; comparable to a shopful of crockery launched upon the 

stream of time; now fall to make their desperate voyage among pots 

of brass and adamant。



Apia; the port and mart; is the seat of the political sickness of 

Samoa。  At the foot of a peaked; woody mountain; the coast makes a 

deep indent; roughly semicircular。  In front the barrier reef is 

broken by the fresh water of the streams; if the swell be from the 

north; it enters almost without diminution; and the war…ships roll 

dizzily at their moorings; and along the fringing coral which 

follows the configuration of the beach; the surf breaks with a 

continuous uproar。  In wild weather; as the world knows; the roads 

are untenable。  Along the whole shore; which is everywhere green 

and level and overlooked by inland mountain…tops; the town lies 

drawn out in strings and clusters。  The western horn is Mulinuu; 

the eastern; Matautu; and from one to the other of these extremes; 

I ask the reader to walk。  He will find more of the history of 

Samoa spread before his eyes in that excursion; than has yet been 

collected in the blue…books or the white…books of the world。  

Mulinuu (where the walk is to begin) is a flat; wind…swept 

promontory; planted with palms; backed against a swamp of 

mangroves; and occupied by a rather miserable village。  The reader 

is informed that this is the proper residence of the Samoan kings; 

he will be the more surprised to observe a board set up; and to 

read that this historic village is the property of the German firm。  

But these boards; which are among the commonest features of the 

landscape; may be rather taken to imply that the claim has been 

disputed。  A little farther east he skirts the stores; offices; and 

barracks of the firm itself。  Thence he will pass through Matafele; 

the one really town…like portion of this long string of villages; 

by German bars and stores and the German consulate; and reach the 

Catholic mission and cathedral standing by the mouth of a small 

river。  The bridge which crosses here (bridge of Mulivai) is a 

frontier; behind is Matafele; beyond; Apia proper; behind; Germans 

are supreme; beyond; with but few exceptions; all is Anglo…Saxon。  

Here the reader will go forward past the stores of Mr。 Moors 

(American) and Messrs。 MacArthur (English); past the English 

mission; the office of the English newspaper; the English church; 

and the old American consulate; till he reaches the mouth of a 

larger river; the Vaisingano。  Beyond; in Matautu; his way takes 

him in the shade of many trees and by scattered dwellings; and 

presently brings him beside a great range of offices; the place and 

the monument of a German who fought the German firm during his 

life。  His house (now he is dead) remains pointed like a discharged 

cannon at the citadel of his old enemies。  Fitly enough; it is at 

present leased and occupied by Englishmen。  A little farther; and 

the reader gains the eastern flanking angle of the bay; where 

stands the pilot…house and signal…post; and whence he can see; on 

the line of the main coast of the island; the British and the new 

American consulates。



The course of his walk will have been enlivened by a considerable 

to and fro of pleasure and business。  He will have encountered many 

varieties of whites; … sailors; merchants; clerks; priests; 

Protestant missionaries in their pith helmets; and the nondescript 

hangers…on of any island beach。  And the sailors are sometimes in 

considerable force; but not the residents。  He will think at times 

there are more signboards than men to own them。  It may chance it 

is a full day in the harbour; he will then have seen all manner of 

ships; from men…of…war and deep…sea packets to the labour vessels 

of the German firm and the cockboat island schooner; and if he be 

of an arithmetical turn; he may calculate that there are more 

whites afloat in Apia bay than whites ashore in the whole 

Archipelago。  On the other hand; he will have encountered all ranks 

of natives; chiefs and pastors in their scrupulous white clothes; 

perhaps the king himself; attended by guards in uniform; smiling 

policemen with their pewter stars; girls; women; crowds of cheerful 

children。  And he will have asked himself with some surprise where 

these reside。  Here and there; in the back yards of European 

establishments; he may have had a glimpse of a native house elbowed 

in a cor

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