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to take umbrage at the attempt of Pindamonas; which he considered 



as an undue assumption of superiority; and put in his own claim; 



but Pindamonas insisted; and at last flung down the money on the 



table; whereupon Pepe Conde instantly unclasped one of those 



terrible Manchegan knives which are generally carried by the 



contrabandistas; and with a frightful gash opened the abdomen of 



Pindamonas; who presently expired。







After this exploit; Pepe Conde fled; and was not seen for some 



time。  The cave; however; in which he had been in the habit of 



residing was watched; as a belief was entertained that sooner or 



later he would return to it; in the hope of being able to remove 



some of the property contained in it。  This belief was well 



founded。  Early one morning he was observed to enter it; and a band 



of soldiers was instantly despatched to seize him。  This 



circumstance is alluded to in a Gypsy stanza:…











'Fly; Pepe Conde; seek the hill;



To flee's thy only chance;



With bayonets fixed; thy blood to spill;



See soldiers four advance。'











And before the soldiers could arrive at the cave; Pepe Conde had 



discovered their approach and fled; endeavouring to make his escape 



amongst the rocks and barrancos of the Alpujarras。  The soldiers 



instantly pursued; and the chase continued a considerable time。  



The fugitive was repeatedly summoned to surrender himself; but 



refusing; the soldiers at last fired; and four balls entered the 



heart of the Gypsy contrabandista and murderer。







Once at Madrid I received a letter from the sister's son of 



Pindamonas; dated from the prison of the Saladero。  In this letter 



the writer; who it appears was in durance for stealing a pair of 



mules; craved my charitable assistance and advice; and possibly in 



the hope of securing my favour; forwarded some uncouth lines 



commemorative of the death of his relation; and commencing thus:…











'The death of Pindamonas fill'd all the world with pain;



At the coffee…house's portal; by Pepe he was slain。'











The faubourg of Triana; in Seville; has from time immemorial been 



noted as a favourite residence of the Gitanos; and here; at the 



present day; they are to be found in greater number than in any 



other town in Spain。  This faubourg is indeed chiefly inhabited by 



desperate characters; as; besides the Gitanos; the principal part 



of the robber population of Seville is here congregated。  Perhaps 



there is no part even of Naples where crime so much abounds; and 



the law is so little respected; as at Triana; the character of 



whose inmates was so graphically delineated two centuries and a 



half back by Cervantes; in one of the most amusing of his tales。 



(44)







In the vilest lanes of this suburb; amidst dilapidated walls and 



ruined convents; exists the grand colony of Spanish Gitanos。  Here 



they may be seen wielding the hammer; here they may be seen 



trimming the fetlocks of horses; or shearing the backs of mules and 



borricos with their cachas; and from hence they emerge to ply the 



same trade in the town; or to officiate as terceros; or to buy; 



sell; or exchange animals in the mercado; and the women to tell the 



bahi through the streets; even as in other parts of Spain; 



generally attended by one or two tawny bantlings in their arms or 



by their sides; whilst others; with baskets and chafing…pans; 



proceed to the delightful banks of the Len Baro; (45) by the Golden 



Tower; where; squatting on the ground and kindling their charcoal; 



they roast the chestnuts which; when well prepared; are the 



favourite bonne bouche of the Sevillians; whilst not a few; in 



league with the contrabandistas; go from door to door offering for 



sale prohibited goods brought from the English at Gibraltar。  Such 



is Gitano life at Seville; such it is in the capital of Andalusia。







It is the common belief of the Gitanos of other provinces that in 



Andalusia the language; customs; habits; and practices peculiar to 



their race are best preserved。  This opinion; which probably 



originated from the fact of their being found in greater numbers in 



this province than in any other; may hold good in some instances; 



but certainly not in all。  In various parts of Spain I have found 



the Gitanos retaining their primitive language and customs better 



than in Seville; where they most abound:  indeed; it is not plain 



that their number has operated at all favourably in this respect。  



At Cordova; a town at the distance of twenty leagues from Seville; 



which scarcely contains a dozen Gitano families; I found them 



living in much more brotherly amity; and cherishing in a greater 



degree the observances of their forefathers。







I shall long remember these Cordovese Gitanos; by whom I was very 



well received; but always on the supposition that I was one of 



their own race。  They said that they never admitted strangers to 



their houses save at their marriage festivals; when they flung 



their doors open to all; and save occasionally people of influence 



and distinction; who wished to hear their songs and converse with 



their women; but they assured me; at the same time; that these they 



invariably deceived; and merely made use of as instruments to serve 



their own purposes。  As for myself; I was admitted without scruple 



to their private meetings; and was made a participator of their 



most secret thoughts。  During our intercourse some remarkable 



scenes occurred。  One night more than twenty of us; men and women; 



were assembled in a long low room on the ground floor; in a dark 



alley or court in the old gloomy town of Cordova。  After the 



Gitanos had discussed several jockey plans; and settled some 



private bargains amongst themselves; we all gathered round a huge 



brasero of flaming charcoal; and began conversing SOBRE LAS COSAS 



DE EGYPTO; when I proposed that; as we had no better means of 



amusing ourselves; we should endeavour to turn into the Calo 



language some pieces of devotion; that we might see whether this 



language; the gradual decay of which I had frequently heard them 



lament; was capable of expressing any other matters than those 



which related to horses; mules; and Gypsy traffic。  It was in this 



cautious manner that I first endeavoured to divert the attention of 



these singular people to matters of eternal importance。  My 



suggestion was received with acclamations; and we forthwith 



proceeded to the translation of the Apostles' creed。  I first 



recited in Spanish; in the usual manner and without pausing; this 



noble confession; and then repeated it again; sentence by sentence; 



the Gitanos translating as I proceeded。  They exhibited the 



greatest eagerness and interest in their unwonted occupation; and 



frequently broke into loud disputes as to the best rendering … many 



being offered at the same time。  In the meanwhile; I wrote down 



from their dictation; and at the conclusion I read aloud the 



translation; the result of the united wisdom of the assembly; 



whereupon they all raised a shout of exultation; and appeared not a 



little proud of the composition。







The Cordovese Gitanos are celebrated esquiladors。  Connected with 



them and the exercise of the ARTE DE ESQUILAR; in Gypsy monrabar; I 



have a curious anecdote to relate。  In the first place; however; it 



may not be amiss to say something about the art itself; of all 



relating to which it is possible that the reader may be quite 



ignorant。







Nothing is more deserving of remark in Spanish grooming than the 



care exhibited in clipping and trimming various parts of the horse; 



where the growth of hair is considered as prejudicial to the 



perfect health and cleanliness of the animal; particular attention 



being always paid to the pastern; that part of the foot which lies 



between the fetlock and the hoof; to guard against the arestin … 



that cutaneous disorder which is the dread of the Spanish groom; on 



which account the services of a skilful esquilador are continually 



in requisition。







The esquilador; when proceeding to the exercise of his vocation; 



generally carries under his arm a small box containing the 



instruments necessary; and which consist principally of various 



pairs of scissors; and the ACIAL; two short sticks tied together 



with whipcord at the end; by means of which the lower lip of the 



horse; should he prove restive; is twisted; and the animal reduced 



to speedy subjection。  In the girdle of the esquilador are stuck 



the large scissors called in Spanish TIJERAS; and in the Gypsy 



tongue CACHAS; with which he principally works。  He operates upon 



the backs; ears; and tails of mules and bo

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