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he raised a raging wind; and drove before it Pharaoh and his armies 



to that hole; and the abyss received them; and the mountain closed 



upon them; but whosoever goes to that mountain on the night of St。 



John can hear Pharaoh and his armies singing and yelling therein。  



And it came to pass; that when Pharaoh and his armies had 



disappeared; all the kings and the nations which had become subject 



to Egypt revolted against Egypt; which; having lost her king and 



her armies; was left utterly without defence; and they made war 



against her; and prevailed against her; and took her people and 



drove them forth; dispersing them over all the world。'







So that now; say the Chai; 'Our horses drink the water of the 



Guadiana' … (Apilyela gras Chai la panee Lucalee)。











'THE STEEDS OF THE EGYPTIANS DRINK THE WATERS OF THE GUADIANA







'The region of Chal was our dear native soil;



Where in fulness of pleasure we lived without toil;



Till dispersed through all lands; 'twas our fortune to be …



Our steeds; Guadiana; must now drink of thee。







'Once kings came from far to kneel down at our gate;



And princes rejoic'd on our meanest to wait;



But now who so mean but would scorn our degree …



Our steeds; Guadiana; must now drink of thee。







'For the Undebel saw; from his throne in the cloud;



That our deeds they were foolish; our hearts they were proud;



And in anger he bade us his presence to flee …



Our steeds; Guadiana; must now drink of thee。







'Our horses should drink of no river but one;



It sparkles through Chal; 'neath the smile of the sun;



But they taste of all streams save that only; and see …



Apilyela gras Chai la panee Lucalee。'















CHAPTER II















IN Madrid the Gitanos chiefly reside in the neighbourhood of the 



'mercado;' or the place where horses and other animals are sold; … 



in two narrow and dirty lanes; called the Calle de la Comadre and 



the Callejon de Lavapies。  It is said that at the beginning of last 



century Madrid abounded with these people; who; by their lawless 



behaviour and dissolute lives; gave occasion to great scandal; if 



such were the case; their numbers must have considerably diminished 



since that period; as it would be difficult at any time to collect 



fifty throughout Madrid。  These Gitanos seem; for the most part; to 



be either Valencians or of Valencian origin; as they in general 



either speak or understand the dialect of Valencia; and whilst 



speaking their own peculiar jargon; the Rommany; are in the habit 



of making use of many Valencian words and terms。







The manner of life of the Gitanos of Madrid differs in no material 



respect from that of their brethren in other places。  The men; 



every market…day; are to be seen on the skirts of the mercado; 



generally with some miserable animal … for example; a foundered 



mule or galled borrico; by means of which they seldom fail to gain 



a dollar or two; either by sale or exchange。  It must not; however; 



be supposed that they content themselves with such paltry earnings。  



Provided they have any valuable animal; which is not unfrequently 



the case; they invariably keep such at home snug in the stall; 



conducting thither the chapman; should they find any; and 



concluding the bargain with the greatest secrecy。  Their general 



reason for this conduct is an unwillingness to exhibit anything 



calculated to excite the jealousy of the chalans; or jockeys of 



Spanish blood; who on the slightest umbrage are in the habit of 



ejecting them from the fair by force of palos or cudgels; in which 



violence the chalans are to a certain extent countenanced by law; 



for though by the edict of Carlos the Third the Gitanos were in 



other respects placed upon an equality with the rest of the 



Spaniards; they were still forbidden to obtain their livelihood by 



the traffic of markets and fairs。







They have occasionally however another excellent reason for not 



exposing the animal in the public mercado … having obtained him by 



dishonest means。  The stealing; concealing; and receiving animals 



when stolen; are inveterate Gypsy habits; and are perhaps the last 



from which the Gitano will be reclaimed; or will only cease when 



the race has become extinct。  In the prisons of Madrid; either in 



that of the Saladero or De la Corte; there are never less than a 



dozen Gitanos immured for stolen horses or mules being found in 



their possession; which themselves or their connections have 



spirited away from the neighbouring villages; or sometimes from a 



considerable distance。  I say spirited away; for so well do the 



thieves take their measures; and watch their opportunity; that they 



are seldom or never taken in the fact。







The Madrilenian Gypsy women are indefatigable in the pursuit of 



prey; prowling about the town and the suburbs from morning till 



night; entering houses of all descriptions; from the highest to the 



lowest; telling fortunes; or attempting to play off various kinds 



of Gypsy tricks; from which they derive much greater profit; and of 



which we shall presently have occasion to make particular mention。







From Madrid let us proceed to Andalusia; casting a cursory glance 



on the Gitanos of that country。  I found them very numerous at 



Granada; which in the Gitano language is termed Meligrana。  Their 



general condition in this place is truly miserable; far exceeding 



in wretchedness the state of the tribes of Estremadura。  It is 



right to state that Granada itself is the poorest city in Spain; 



the greatest part of the population; which exceeds sixty thousand; 



living in beggary and nakedness; and the Gitanos share in the 



general distress。







Many of them reside in caves scooped in the sides of the ravines 



which lead to the higher regions of the Alpujarras; on a skirt of 



which stands Granada。  A common occupation of the Gitanos of 



Granada is working in iron; and it is not unfrequent to find these 



caves tenanted by Gypsy smiths and their families; who ply the 



hammer and forge in the bowels of the earth。  To one standing at 



the mouth of the cave; especially at night; they afford a 



picturesque spectacle。  Gathered round the forge; their bronzed and 



naked bodies; illuminated by the flame; appear like figures of 



demons; while the cave; with its flinty sides and uneven roof; 



blackened by the charcoal vapours which hover about it in festoons; 



seems to offer no inadequate representation of fabled purgatory。  



Working in iron was an occupation strictly forbidden to the Gitanos 



by the ancient laws; on what account does not exactly appear; 



though; perhaps; the trade of the smith was considered as too much 



akin to that of the chalan to be permitted to them。  The Gypsy 



smith of Granada is still a chalan; even as his brother in England 



is a jockey and tinker alternately。







Whilst speaking of the Gitanos of Granada; we cannot pass by in 



silence a tragedy which occurred in this town amongst them; some 



fifteen years ago; and the details of which are known to every 



Gitano in Spain; from Catalonia to Estremadura。  We allude to the 



murder of Pindamonas by Pepe Conde。  Both these individuals were 



Gitanos; the latter was a celebrated contrabandista; of whom many 



remarkable tales are told。  On one occasion; having committed some 



enormous crime; he fled over to Barbary and turned Moor; and was 



employed by the Moorish emperor in his wars; in company with the 



other renegade Spaniards; whose grand depot or presidio is the town 



of Agurey in the kingdom of Fez。  After the lapse of some years; 



when his crime was nearly forgotten; he returned to Granada; where 



he followed his old occupations of contrabandista and chalan。  



Pindamonas was a Gitano of considerable wealth; and was considered 



as the most respectable of the race at Granada; amongst whom he 



possessed considerable influence。  Between this man and Pepe Conde 



there existed a jealousy; especially on the part of the latter; 



who; being a man of proud untamable spirit; could not well brook a 



superior amongst his own people。  It chanced one day that 



Pindamonas and other Gitanos; amongst whom was Pepe Conde; were in 



a coffee…house。  After they had all partaken of some refreshment; 



they called for the reckoning; the amount of which Pindamonas 



insisted on discharging。  It will be necessary here to observe; 



that on such occasions in Spain it is considered as a species of 



privilege to be allowed to pay; which is an honour generally 



claimed by the principal man of the party。  Pepe Conde did not fail 



to take umbrage at the attempt of Pindamonas; which he considered 



as an undue assumption of supe

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