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Sartor Resartus

by Thomas Carlyle




SARTOR RESARTUS:  The Life and Opinions of Herr Teufelsdrockh By Thomas Carlyle。 '1831'




BOOK I。

CHAPTER I。 PRELIMINARY。

Considering our present advanced state of culture; and how the Torch of Science has now been brandished and borne about; with more or less effect; for five thousand years and upwards; how; in these times especially; not only the Torch still burns; and perhaps more fiercely than ever; but innumerable Rushlights; and Sulphur…matches; kindled thereat; are also glancing in every direction; so that not the smallest cranny or dog…hole in Nature or Art can remain unilluminated;it might strike the reflective mind with some surprise that hitherto little or nothing of a fundamental character; whether in the way of Philosophy or History; has been written on the subject of Clothes。

Our Theory of Gravitation is as good as perfect:  Lagrange; it is well known; has proved that the Planetary System; on this scheme; will endure forever; Laplace; still more cunningly; even guesses that it could not have been made on any other scheme。  Whereby; at least; our nautical Logbooks can be better kept; and water…transport of all kinds has grown more commodious。  Of Geology and Geognosy we know enough:  what with the labors of our Werners and Huttons; what with the ardent genius of their disciples; it has come about that now; to many a Royal Society; the Creation of a World is little more mysterious than the cooking of a dumpling; concerning which last; indeed; there have been minds to whom the question; _How the apples were got in_; presented difficulties。  Why mention our disquisitions on the Social Contract; on the Standard of Taste; on the Migrations of the Herring?  Then; have we not a Doctrine of Rent; a Theory of Value; Philosophies of Language; of History; of Pottery; of Apparitions; of Intoxicating Liquors?  Man's whole life and environment have been laid open and elucidated; scarcely a fragment or fibre of his Soul; Body; and Possessions; but has been probed; dissected; distilled; desiccated; and scientifically decomposed:  our spiritual Faculties; of which it appears there are not a few; have their Stewarts; Cousins; Royer Collards:  every cellular; vascular; muscular Tissue glories in its Lawrences; Majendies; Bichats。

How; then; comes it; may the reflective mind repeat; that the grand Tissue of all Tissues; the only real Tissue; should have been quite overlooked by Science;the vestural Tissue; namely; of woollen or other cloth; which Man's Soul wears as its outmost wrappage and overall; wherein his whole other Tissues are included and screened; his whole Faculties work; his whole Self lives; moves; and has its being?  For if; now and then; some straggling broken…winged thinker has cast an owl's glance into this obscure region; the most have soared over it altogether heedless; regarding Clothes as a property; not an accident; as quite natural and spontaneous; like the leaves of trees; like the plumage of birds。  In all speculations they have tacitly figured man as _a Clothed Animal_; whereas he is by nature a _Naked Animal_; and only in certain circumstances; by purpose and device; masks himself in Clothes。  Shakespeare says; we are creatures that look before and after:  the more surprising that we do not look round a little; and see what is passing under our very eyes。

But here; as in so many other cases; Germany; learned; indefatigable; deep…thinking Germany comes to our aid。  It is; after all; a blessing that; in these revolutionary times; there should be one country where abstract Thought can still take shelter; that while the din and frenzy of Catholic Emancipations; and Rotten Boroughs; and Revolts of Paris; deafen every French and every English ear; the German can stand peaceful on his scientific watch…tower; and; to the raging; struggling multitude here and elsewhere; solemnly; from hour to hour; with preparatory blast of cow…horn; emit his _Horet ihr Herren und lasset's Euch sagen_; in other words; tell the Universe; which so often forgets that fact; what o'clock it really is。 Not unfrequently the Germans have been blamed for an unprofitable diligence; as if they struck into devious courses; where nothing was to be had but the toil of a rough journey; as if; forsaking the gold…mines of finance and that political slaughter of fat oxen whereby a man himself grows fat; they were apt to run goose…hunting into regions of bilberries and crowberries; and be swallowed up at last in remote peat…bogs。  Of that unwise science; which; as our Humorist expresses it;

                   〃By geometric scale      Doth take the size of pots of ale;〃

still more; of that altogether misdirected industry; which is seen vigorously thrashing mere straw; there can nothing defensive be said。  In so far as the Germans are chargeable with such; let them take the consequence。  Nevertheless be it remarked; that even a Russian steppe has tumult and gold ornaments; also many a scene that looks desert and rock…bound from the distance; will unfold itself; when visited; into rare valleys。  Nay; in any case; would Criticism erect not only finger…posts and turnpikes; but spiked gates and impassable barriers; for the mind of man? It is written; 〃Many shall run to and fro; and knowledge shall be increased。〃  Surely the plain rule is; Let each considerate person have his way; and see what it will lead to。  For not this man and that man; but all men make up mankind; and their united tasks the task of mankind。  How often have we seen some such adventurous; and perhaps much…censured wanderer light on some out…lying; neglected; yet vitally momentous province; the hidden treasures of which he first discovered; and kept proclaiming till the general eye and effort were directed thither; and the conquest was completed;thereby; in these his seemingly so aimless rambles; planting new standards; founding new habitable colonies; in the immeasurable circumambient realm of Nothingness and Night!  Wise man was he who counselled that Speculation should have free course; and look fearlessly towards all the thirty…two points of the compass; whithersoever and howsoever it listed。


Perhaps it is proof of the stunted condition in which pure Science; especially pure moral Science; languishes among us English; and how our mercantile greatness; and invaluable Constitution; impressing a political or other immediately practical tendency on all English culture and endeavor; cramps the free flight of Thought;that this; not Philosophy of Clothes; but recognition even that we have no such Philosophy; stands here for the first time published in our language。  What English intellect could have chosen such a topic; or by chance stumbled on it?  But for that same unshackled; and even sequestered condition of the German Learned; which permits and induces them to fish in all manner of waters; with all manner of nets; it seems probable enough; this abtruse Inquiry might; in spite of the results it leads to; have continued dormant for indefinite periods。 The Editor of these sheets; though otherwise boasting himself a man of confirmed speculative habits; and perhaps discursive enough; is free to confess; that never; till these last months; did the above very plain considerations; on our total want of a Philosophy of Clothes; occur to him; and then; by quite foreign suggestion。  By the arrival; namely; of a new Book from Professor Teufelsdrockh of Weissnichtwo; treating expressly of this subject; and in a style which; whether understood or not; could not even by the blindest be overlooked。  In the present Editor's way of thought; this remarkable Treatise; with its Doctrines; whether as judicially acceded to; or judicially denied; has not remained without effect。

〃_Die Kleider; ihr Werden und Wirken_ (Clothes; their Origin and Influence):  _von Diog。 Teufelsdrockh; J。 U。 D。 etc。  Stillschweigen und Cognie。  Weissnichtwo_; 1831。

〃Here;〃 says the _Weissnichtwo'sche Anzeiger_; 〃comes a Volume of that extensive; close…printed; close…meditated sort; which; be it spoken with pride; is seen only in Germany; perhaps only in Weissnichtwo。  Issuing from the hitherto irreproachable Firm of Stillschweigen and Company; with every external furtherance; it is of such internal quality as to set Neglect at defiance。。。。  A work;〃 concludes the well…nigh enthusiastic Reviewer; 〃interesting alike to the antiquary; the historian; and the philosophic thinker; a masterpiece of boldness; lynx…eyed acuteness; and rugged independent Germanism and Philanthropy (_derber Kerndeutschheit und Menschenliebe_); which will not; assuredly; pass current without opposition in high places; but must and will exalt the almost new name of Teufelsdrockh to the first ranks of Philosophy; in our German Temple of Honor。〃

Mindful of old friendship; the distinguished Professor; in this the first blaze of his fame; which however does not dazzle him; sends hither a Presentation…copy of his Book; with compliments and encomiums which modesty forbids the present Editor to rehearse; yet without indicated wish or hope of any kind; except what may be implied in the concluding phrase:  _Mochte es_ (this remarkable Treatise) _auch im Brittischen Boden gedeihen_!


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