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established usage colonels and captains entertain their subordinates

and thus expend 〃much beyond their salaries。〃'71' This is one of the

reasons why regiments are reserved for the sons of the best families;

and companies in them for wealthy gentlemen。  The vast royal tree;

expanding so luxuriantly at Versailles; sends forth its offshoots to

overrun France by thousands; and to bloom everywhere; as at

Versailles; in bouquets of finery and of drawing room sociability。



VII。  PROVINCIAL NOBILITY。



Prelates; seigniors and minor provincial nobles。  … The feudal

aristocracy transformed into a drawing room group。



Following this pattern; and as well through the effect of

temperature; we see; even in remote provinces; all aristocratic

branches having a flourishing social life。  Lacking other employment;

the nobles exchange visits; and the chief function of a prominent

seignior is to do the honors of his house creditably。  This applies as

well to ecclesiastics as to laymen。  The one hundred and thirty…one

bishops and archbishops; the seven hundred abbés…commendatory; are all

men of the world; they behave well; are rich; and are not austere;

while their episcopal palace or abbey is for them a country…house;

which they repair or embellish with a view to the time they pass in

it; and to the company they welcome to it。'72' At Clairvaux; Dom

Rocourt; very affable with men and still more gallant with the ladies;

never drives out except with four horses; and with a mounted groom

ahead; his monks do him the honors of a Monseigneur; and he maintains

a veritable court。  The chartreuse of Val Saint…Pierre is a sumptuous

palace in the center of an immense domain; and the father…procurator;

Dom Effinger; passes his days in entertaining his guests。'73' At the

convent of Origny; near Saint…Quentin;'74' 〃the abbess has her

domestics and her carriage and horses; and receives men on visits; who

dine in her apartments。〃 The princess Christine; abbess of Remiremont;

with her lady canonesses; are almost always traveling; and yet 〃they

enjoy themselves in the abbey;〃 entertaining there a good many people

〃in the private apartments of the princess; and in the strangers'

rooms。〃'75' The twenty…five noble chapters of women; and the nineteen

noble chapters of men; are as many permanent drawing…rooms and

gathering places incessantly resorted to by the fine society which a

slight ecclesiastical barrier scarcely divides from the great world

from which it is recruited。  At the chapter of Alix; near Lyons; the

canonesses wear hoopskirts into the choir; 〃dressed as in the world

outside;〃 except that their black silk robes and their mantles are

lined with ermine。'76' At the chapter of Ottmarsheim in Alsace; 〃our

week was passed in promenading; in visiting the traces of Roman roads;

in laughing a good deal; and even in dancing; for there were many

people visiting the abbey; and especially talking over dresses。〃 Near

Sarrebuis; the canonesses of Loutre dine with the officers and are

anything but prudish。'77' Numbers of convents serve as agreeable and

respectable asylums for widowed ladies; for young women whose husbands

are in the army; and for young ladies of rank; while the superior;

generally some noble damsel; wields; with ease and dexterity; the

scepter of this pretty feminine world。  But nowhere is the pomp of

hospitality or the concourse greater; than in the episcopal palaces。  I

have described the situation of the bishops; with their opulence;

possessors of the like feudal rights; heirs and successors to the

ancient sovereigns of the territory; and besides all this; men of the

world and frequenters of Versailles; why should they not keep a court?

A Cicé; archbishop of Bordeaux; a Dillon; archbishop of Narbonne; a

Brienne; archbishop of Toulouse; a Castellane; bishop of Mende and

seignior…suzerain of the whole of Gévaudan; an archbishop of Cambrai;

duke of Cambray; seignior…suzerain of the whole of Cambrésis; and

president by birth of the provincial States…General; are nearly all

princes ; why not parade themselves like princes? Hence; they build;

hunt and have their clients and guests; a lever; an antechamber;

ushers; officers; a free table; a complete household; equipages; and;

oftener still; debts; the finishing touch of a grand seignior。  In the

almost regal palace which the Rohans; hereditary bishops of Strasbourg

and cardinals from uncle to nephew; erected for themselves at

Saverne;'78' there are 700 beds; 180 horses; 14 butlers; and 25

valets。  〃The whole province assembles there;〃 the cardinal lodges as

many as two hundred guests at a time; without counting the valets; at

all times there are found under his roof 〃from twenty to thirty ladies

the most agreeable of the province; and this number is often increased

by those of the court and from Paris。  。  。  。  The entire company sup

together at nine o'clock in the evening; which always looks like a

fête;〃 and the cardinal himself is its chief ornament。  Splendidly

dressed; fine…looking; gallant; exquisitely polite; the slightest

smile is a grace。  〃His face; always beaming; inspired confidence; he

had the true physiognomy of a man expressly designed for pompous

display。〃



Such likewise is the attitude and occupation of the principal lay

seigniors; at home; in summer; when a love of the charms of fine

weather brings them back to their estates。  For example; Harcourt in

Normandy and Brienne in Champagne are two chateaux the best

frequented。  〃Persons of distinction resort to it from Paris; eminent

men of letters; while the nobility of the canton pay there an

assiduous court。〃'79' There is no residence where flocks of

fashionable people do not light down permanently to dine; to dance; to

hunt; to gossip; to unravel;'80' (parfiler) to play comedy。  We can

trace these birds from cage to cage; they remain a week; a month;

three months; displaying their plumage and their prattle。  From Paris

to Ile…Adam; to Villers…Cotterets; to Frétoy; to Planchette; to

Soissons; to Rheims; to Grisolles; to Sillery; to Braine; to

Balincourt; to Vaudreuil; the Comte and Comtesse de Genlis thus bear

about their leisure; their wit; their gaiety; at the domiciles of

friends whom; in their turn; they entertain at Genlis。  A glance at the

exteriors of these mansions suffices to show that it was the chief

duty in these days to be hospitable; as it was a prime necessity to be

in society。'81' Their luxury; indeed; differs from ours。  With the

exception of a few princely establishments it is not great in the

matter of country furniture; a display of this description is left to

the financiers。  〃But it is prodigious in all things which can minister

to the enjoyment of others; in horses; carriages; and in an open

table; in accommodations given even to people not belonging to the

house; in boxes at the play which are lent to friends; and lastly; in

servants; much more numerous than nowadays。〃 Through this mutual and

constant attention the most rustic nobles lose the rust still

encrusting their brethren in Germany or in England。  We find in France

few Squire Western and Barons de Thunder…ten…Troenck; an Alsatian

lady; on seeing at Frankfort the grotesque country squires of

Westphalia; is struck with the contrast。'82' Those of France; even in

distant provinces; have frequented the drawing…rooms of the commandant

and intendant; and have encountered on their visits some of the ladies

from Versailles; hence they always show some familiarity with superior

manners and some knowledge of the changes of fashion and dress。〃 The

most barbarous will descend; with his hat in his hand; to the foot of

his steps to escort his guests; thanking them for the honor they have

done him。  The greatest rustic; when in a woman's presence; dives down

into the depths of his memory for some fragment of chivalric

gallantry。  The poorest and most secluded furbishes up his coat of

royal blue and his cross of St。  Louis that he may; when the occasion

offers; tender his respects to his neighbor; the grand seignior; or to

the prince who is passing by。



Thus is the feudal staff wholly transformed; from the lowest to the

highest grades。  Taking in at one glance its 30 or 40;000 palaces;

mansions; manors and abbeys; what a brilliant and engaging scene

France presents! She is one vast drawing…room; and I detect only

drawing room company。  Everywhere the rude chieftains once possessing

authority have become the masters of households administering favors。

Their society is that in which; before fully admiring a great general;

the question is asked; 〃is he amiable?〃 Undoubtedly they still wear

swords; and are brave through pride and tradition; and they know how

to die; especially in duels and according to form。  But worldly traits

have hidden the ancient military groundwork; at the end of the

eighteenth century their genius is to be wellbred and their employment

consists in entertai

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