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XCVII

THE¡¡WALK¡¡TO¡¡BOSTON

The¡¡new¡¡home¡¡became¡¡more¡¡beautiful¡¡to¡¡them¡¡as¡¡things¡¡found¡¡their¡¡places£»
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wrote£º

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¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡soft¡¡and¡¡beautiful¡¡than¡¡usual¡£¡¡¡¡Mr¡£¡¡Twichell¡¡came¡¡for¡¡Mr¡£¡¡Clemens¡¡to
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡go¡¡walking¡¡with¡¡him£»¡¡they¡¡returned¡¡at¡¡dinner¡­time£»¡¡heavily¡¡laden
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡with¡¡autumn¡¡leaves¡£

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¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡Twichell¡¡came¡¡up¡¡here¡¡with¡¡me¡¡to¡¡luncheon¡¡after¡¡services£»¡¡and¡¡I¡¡went
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡back¡¡home¡¡with¡¡him¡¡and¡¡took¡¡Susy¡¡along¡¡in¡¡her¡¡little¡¡carriage¡£¡¡¡¡We
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡have¡¡just¡¡got¡¡home¡¡again£»¡¡middle¡¡of¡¡afternoon£»¡¡and¡¡Livy¡¡has¡¡gone¡¡to
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¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡which¡¡began¡¡with¡¡perfection£»¡¡and¡¡has¡¡momently¡¡surpassed¡¡it¡¡ever
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡since£»¡¡until¡¡at¡¡last¡¡it¡¡is¡¡almost¡¡unendurably¡¡beautiful¡£¡£¡£¡£

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¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡manifold¡¡as¡¡those¡¡in¡¡an¡¡opal¡¡and¡¡as¡¡delicate¡¡as¡¡the¡¡tintings¡¡of¡¡a
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¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡his¡¡shoulders¡£

¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡The¡¡customary¡¡Sunday¡¡assemblage¡¡of¡¡strangers¡¡is¡¡gathered¡¡together¡¡in
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡the¡¡grounds¡¡discussing¡¡the¡¡house¡£

Twichell¡¡and¡¡Clemens¡¡took¡¡a¡¡good¡¡many¡¡walks¡¡these¡¡days£»¡¡long¡¡walks£»¡¡for
Twichell¡¡was¡¡an¡¡athlete¡¡and¡¡Clemens¡¡had¡¡not¡¡then¡¡outgrown¡¡the¡¡Nevada
habit¡¡of¡¡pedestrian¡¡wandering¡£¡¡¡¡Talcott's¡¡Tower£»¡¡a¡¡wooden¡¡structure¡¡about
five¡¡miles¡¡from¡¡Hartford£»¡¡was¡¡one¡¡of¡¡their¡¡favorite¡¡objective¡¡points£»¡¡and
often¡¡they¡¡walked¡¡out¡¡and¡¡back£»¡¡talking¡¡so¡¡continuously£»¡¡and¡¡so¡¡absorbed
in¡¡the¡¡themes¡¡of¡¡their¡¡discussions£»¡¡that¡¡time¡¡and¡¡distance¡¡slipped¡¡away
almost¡¡unnoticed¡£¡¡¡¡How¡¡many¡¡things¡¡they¡¡talked¡¡of¡¡in¡¡those¡¡long¡¡walks£¡
They¡¡discussed¡¡philosophies¡¡and¡¡religions¡¡and¡¡creeds£»¡¡and¡¡all¡¡the¡¡range
of¡¡human¡¡possibility¡¡and¡¡shortcoming£»¡¡and¡¡all¡¡the¡¡phases¡¡of¡¡literature
and¡¡history¡¡and¡¡politics¡£¡¡¡¡Unorthodox¡¡discussions¡¡they¡¡were£»
illuminating£»¡¡marvelously¡¡enchanting£»¡¡and¡¡vanished¡¡now¡¡forever¡£
Sometimes¡¡they¡¡took¡¡the¡¡train¡¡as¡¡far¡¡as¡¡Bloomfield£»¡¡a¡¡little¡¡station¡¡on
the¡¡way£»¡¡and¡¡walked¡¡the¡¡rest¡¡of¡¡the¡¡distance£»¡¡or¡¡they¡¡took¡¡the¡¡train¡¡from
Bloomfield¡¡home¡£¡¡¡¡It¡¡seems¡¡a¡¡strange¡¡association£»¡¡perhaps£»¡¡the¡¡fellowship
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creed£»¡¡but¡¡the¡¡root¡¡of¡¡their¡¡friendship¡¡lay¡¡in¡¡the¡¡frankness¡¡with¡¡which
each¡¡man¡¡delivered¡¡his¡¡dogmas¡¡and¡¡respected¡¡those¡¡of¡¡his¡¡companion¡£

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Hartford¡¡to¡¡Boston¡£¡¡¡¡This¡¡was¡¡early¡¡in¡¡November¡£¡¡¡¡They¡¡did¡¡not¡¡delay¡¡the
matter£»¡¡for¡¡the¡¡weather¡¡was¡¡getting¡¡too¡¡uncertain¡£

Clemens¡¡wrote¡¡Redpath£º

DEAR¡¡REDPATH£»¡¡Rev¡£¡¡J¡£¡¡H¡£¡¡Twichell¡¡and¡¡I¡¡expect¡¡to¡¡start¡¡at¡¡8¡¡o'clock
Thursday¡¡morning¡¡to¡¡walk¡¡to¡¡Boston¡¡in¡¡twenty¡¡four¡¡hoursor¡¡more¡£¡¡¡¡We
shall¡¡telegraph¡¡Young's¡¡Hotel¡¡for¡¡rooms¡¡Saturday¡¡night£»¡¡in¡¡order¡¡to¡¡allow
for¡¡a¡¡low¡¡average¡¡of¡¡pedestrianism¡£

It¡¡was¡¡half¡¡past¡¡eight¡¡on¡¡Thursday¡¡morning£»¡¡November¡¡12£»¡¡1874£»¡¡that¡¡they
left¡¡Twichell's¡¡house¡¡in¡¡a¡¡carriage£»¡¡drove¡¡to¡¡the¡¡East¡¡Hartford¡¡bridge£»
and¡¡there¡¡took¡¡to¡¡the¡¡road£»¡¡Twichell¡¡carrying¡¡a¡¡little¡¡bag¡¡and¡¡Clemens¡¡a
basket¡¡of¡¡lunch¡£

The¡¡papers¡¡had¡¡got¡¡hold¡¡of¡¡it¡¡by¡¡this¡¡time£»¡¡and¡¡were¡¡watching¡¡the¡¡result¡£
They¡¡did¡¡well¡¡enough¡¡that¡¡first¡¡day£»¡¡following¡¡the¡¡old¡¡Boston¡¡stage¡¡road£»
arriving¡¡at¡¡Westford¡¡about¡¡seven¡¡o'clock¡¡in¡¡the¡¡evening£»¡¡twenty¡­eight
miles¡¡from¡¡the¡¡starting¡­point¡£¡¡¡¡There¡¡was¡¡no¡¡real¡¡hotel¡¡at¡¡Westford£»¡¡only
a¡¡sort¡¡of¡¡tavern£»¡¡but¡¡it¡¡afforded¡¡the¡¡luxury¡¡of¡¡rest¡£¡¡¡¡¡¨Also£»¡¨¡¡says
Twichell£»¡¡in¡¡a¡¡memoranda¡¡of¡¡the¡¡trip£»¡¡¡¨a¡¡sublimely¡¡profane¡¡hostler¡¡whom
you¡¡couldn't¡¡jostle¡¡with¡¡any¡¡sort¡¡of¡¡mild¡¡remark¡¡without¡¡bringing¡¡down
upon¡¡yourself¡¡a¡¡perfect¡¡avalanche¡¡of¡¡oaths¡£¡¨

This¡¡was¡¡a¡¡joy¡¡to¡¡Clemens£»¡¡who¡¡sat¡¡behind¡¡the¡¡stove£»¡¡rubbing¡¡his¡¡lame
knees¡¡and¡¡fairly¡¡reveling¡¡in¡¡Twichell's¡¡discomfiture¡¡in¡¡his¡¡efforts¡¡to
divert¡¡the¡¡hostler's¡¡blasphemy¡£¡¡¡¡There¡¡was¡¡also¡¡a¡¡mellow¡¡inebriate¡¡there
who¡¡recommended¡¡kerosene¡¡for¡¡Clemens's¡¡lameness£»¡¡and¡¡offered¡¡as¡¡testimony
the¡¡fact¡¡that¡¡he¡¡himself¡¡had¡¡frequently¡¡used¡¡it¡¡for¡¡stiffness¡¡in¡¡his
joints¡¡after¡¡lying¡¡out¡¡all¡¡night¡¡in¡¡cold¡¡weather£»¡¡drunk£º¡¡altogether¡¡it
was¡¡a¡¡notable¡¡evening¡£

Westford¡¡was¡¡about¡¡as¡¡far¡¡as¡¡they¡¡continued¡¡the¡¡journey¡¡afoot¡£¡¡¡¡Clemens
was¡¡exceedingly¡¡lame¡¡next¡¡morning£»¡¡and¡¡had¡¡had¡¡a¡¡rather¡¡bad¡¡night£»¡¡but¡¡he
swore¡¡and¡¡limped¡¡along¡¡six¡¡miles¡¡farther£»¡¡to¡¡North¡¡Ashford£»¡¡then¡¡gave¡¡it
up¡£¡¡¡¡They¡¡drove¡¡from¡¡North¡¡Ashford¡¡to¡¡the¡¡railway£»¡¡where¡¡Clemens
telegraphed¡¡Redpath¡¡and¡¡Howells¡¡of¡¡their¡¡approach¡£¡¡¡¡To¡¡Redpath£º

¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡We¡¡have¡¡made¡¡thirty¡­five¡¡miles¡¡in¡¡less¡¡than¡¡five¡¡days¡£¡¡¡¡This
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡demonstrates¡¡that¡¡the¡¡thing¡¡can¡¡be¡¡done¡£¡¡¡¡Shall¡¡now¡¡finish¡¡by¡¡rail¡£
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡Did¡¡you¡¡have¡¡any¡¡bets¡¡on¡¡us£¿

To¡¡Howells£º

¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡Arrive¡¡by¡¡rail¡¡at¡¡seven¡¡o'clock£»¡¡the¡¡first¡¡of¡¡a¡¡series¡¡of¡¡grand
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡annual¡¡pedestrian¡¡tours¡¡from¡¡Hartford¡¡to¡¡Boston¡¡to¡¡be¡¡performed¡¡by
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡us¡£¡¡¡¡The¡¡next¡¡will¡¡take¡¡place¡¡next¡¡year¡£

Redpath¡¡read¡¡his¡¡despatch¡¡to¡¡a¡¡lecture¡¡audience£»¡¡with¡¡effect¡£¡¡¡¡Howells
made¡¡immediate¡¡preparation¡¡for¡¡receiving¡¡two¡¡way¡­worn£»¡¡hungry¡¡men¡£¡¡¡¡He
telegraphed¡¡to¡¡Young's¡¡Hotel£º¡¡¡¨You¡¡and¡¡Twichell¡¡come¡¡right¡¡up¡¡to¡¡37
Concord¡¡Avenue£»¡¡Cambridge£»¡¡near¡¡observatory¡£¡¡¡¡Party¡¡waiting¡¡for¡¡you¡£¡¨

They¡¡got¡¡to¡¡Howells's¡¡about¡¡nine¡¡o'clock£»¡¡and¡¡the¡¡refreshments¡¡were
waiting¡£¡¡¡¡Miss¡¡Longfellow¡¡was¡¡there£»¡¡Rose¡¡Hawthorne£»¡¡John¡¡Fiske£»¡¡Larkin
G¡£¡¡Mead£»¡¡the¡¡sculptor£»¡¡and¡¡others¡¡of¡¡their¡¡kind¡£¡¡¡¡Howells¡¡tells¡¡in¡¡his
book¡¡how¡¡Clemens£»¡¡with¡¡Twichell£»¡¡¡¨suddenly¡¡stormed¡¡in£»¡¨¡¡and¡¡immediately
began¡¡to¡¡eat¡¡and¡¡drink£º

¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡I¡¡can¡¡see¡¡him¡¡now¡¡as¡¡he¡¡stood¡¡up¡¡in¡¡the¡¡midst¡¡of¡¡our¡¡friends£»¡¡with
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡his¡¡head¡¡thrown¡¡back£»¡¡and¡¡in¡¡his¡¡hand¡¡a¡¡dish¡¡of¡¡those¡¡escalloped
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡oysters¡¡without¡¡which¡¡no¡¡party¡¡in¡¡Cambridge¡¡was¡¡really¡¡a¡¡party£»
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡exulting¡¡in¡¡the¡¡tale¡¡of¡¡his¡¡adventure£»¡¡which¡¡had¡¡abounded¡¡in¡¡the
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡most¡¡original¡¡characters¡¡and¡¡amusing¡¡incidents¡¡at¡¡every¡¡mile¡¡of
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡their¡¡progress¡£

Clemens¡¡gave¡¡a¡¡dinner£»¡¡next¡¡night£»¡¡to¡¡Howells£»¡¡Aldrich£»¡¡Osgood£»¡¡and¡¡the
rest¡£¡¡¡¡The¡¡papers¡¡were¡¡full¡¡of¡¡jokes¡¡concerning¡¡the¡¡Boston¡¡expedition£»
some¡¡even¡¡had¡¡illustrations£»¡¡and¡¡it¡¡was¡¡all¡¡amusing¡¡enough¡¡at¡¡the¡¡time¡£

Next¡¡morning£»¡¡sitting¡¡in¡¡the¡¡writing¡­room¡¡of¡¡Young's¡¡Hotel£»¡¡he¡¡wrote¡¡a
curious¡¡letter¡¡to¡¡Mrs¡£¡¡Clemens£»¡¡though¡¡intended¡¡as¡¡much¡¡for¡¡Howells¡¡and
Aldrich¡¡as¡¡for¡¡her¡£¡¡¡¡It¡¡was¡¡dated¡¡sixty¡­one¡¡years¡¡ahead£»¡¡and¡¡was¡¡a¡¡sort
of¡¡Looking¡¡Backwards£»¡¡though¡¡that¡¡notable¡¡book¡¡had¡¡not¡¡yet¡¡been¡¡written¡£
It¡¡presupposed¡¡a¡¡monarchy¡¡in¡¡which¡¡the¡¡name¡¡of¡¡Boston¡¡has¡¡been¡¡changed¡¡to
¡¨Limerick£»¡¨¡¡and¡¡Hartford¡¡to¡¡¡¨Dublin¡£¡¨¡¡¡¡In¡¡it£»¡¡Twichell¡¡has¡¡become¡¡the
¡¨Archbishop¡¡of¡¡Dublin£»¡¨¡¡Howells¡¡¡¨Duke¡¡of¡¡Cambridge£»¡¨¡¡Aldrich¡¡¡¨Marquis¡¡of
Ponkapog£»¡¨¡¡Clemens¡¡the¡¡¡¨Earl¡¡of¡¡Hartford¡£¡¨¡¡¡¡It¡¡was¡¡too¡¡whimsical¡¡and
delightful¡¡a¡¡fancy¡¡to¡¡be¡¡forgotten¡£¡¡£§This¡¡remarkable¡¡and¡¡amusing
document¡¡will¡¡be¡¡found¡¡under¡¡Appendix¡¡M£»¡¡at¡¡the¡¡end¡¡of¡¡last¡¡volume¡££§

A¡¡long¡¡time¡¡afterward£»¡¡thirty¡­four¡¡year£»¡¡he¡¡came¡¡across¡¡this¡¡letter¡£¡¡¡¡He
said£º

¡¨It¡¡seems¡¡curious¡¡now¡¡that¡¡I¡¡should¡¡have¡¡been¡¡dreaming¡¡dreams¡¡of¡¡a¡¡future
monarchy¡¡and¡¡never¡¡suspect¡¡that¡¡the¡¡monarchy¡¡was¡¡already¡¡present¡¡and¡¡the
Republic¡¡a¡¡thing¡¡of¡¡the¡¡past¡£¡¨

What¡¡he¡¡meant£»¡¡was¡¡the¡¡political¡¡succession¡¡that¡¡had¡¡fostered¡¡those
commercial¡¡trusts¡¡which£»¡¡in¡¡turn£»¡¡had¡¡established¡¡party¡¡dominion¡£

To¡¡Howells£»¡¡on¡¡his¡¡return£»¡¡Clemens¡¡wrote¡¡his¡¡acknowledgments£»¡¡and¡¡added£º

¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡Mrs¡£¡¡Clemens¡¡gets¡¡upon¡¡the¡¡verge¡¡of¡¡swearing£»¡¡and¡¡goes¡¡tearing
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡around¡¡in¡¡an¡¡unseemly¡¡fury¡¡when¡¡I¡¡enlarge¡¡upon¡¡the¡¡delightful¡¡time
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡we¡¡had¡¡in¡¡Boston£»¡¡and¡¡she¡¡not¡¡there¡¡to¡¡have¡¡her¡¡share¡£¡¡¡¡I¡¡have¡¡tried
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡hard¡¡to¡¡reproduce¡¡Mrs¡£¡¡Howells¡¡to¡¡her£»¡¡and¡¡have¡¡probably¡¡not¡¡made¡¡a
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡shining¡¡success¡¡of¡¡it¡£




XCVIII

¡¨OLD¡¡TIMES¡¡ON¡¡THE¡¡MISSISSIPPI¡¨

Howells¡¡had¡¡been¡¡urging¡¡Clemens¡¡to¡¡do¡¡something¡¡more¡¡for¡¡the¡¡Atlantic£»
specifically¡¡something¡¡for¡¡the¡¡January¡¡number¡£¡¡¡¡Clemens¡¡cudgeled¡¡his
brains£»¡¡but¡¡finally¡¡declared¡¡he¡¡must¡¡give¡¡it¡¡up£º

¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡Mrs¡£¡¡Clemens¡¡has¡¡diligently¡¡persecuted¡¡me¡¡day¡¡by¡¡day¡¡with¡¡urgings¡¡to
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡go¡¡to¡¡work¡¡and¡¡do¡¡that¡¡something£»¡¡but¡¡it's¡¡no¡¡use¡£¡¡¡¡I¡¡find¡¡I¡¡can't¡£
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡We¡¡are¡¡in¡¡such¡¡a¡¡state¡¡of¡¡worry¡¡and¡¡endless¡¡confusion¡¡that¡¡my¡¡head
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡won't¡¡go¡£

Two¡¡hours¡¡later¡¡he¡¡sent¡¡another¡¡hasty¡¡line£º

¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡I¡¡take¡¡back¡¡the¡¡remark¡¡that¡¡I¡¡can't¡¡write¡¡for¡¡the¡¡January¡¡number£»
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡for¡¡Twichell¡¡and¡¡I¡¡have¡¡had¡¡a¡¡long¡¡walk¡¡in¡¡the¡¡woods£»¡¡and¡¡I¡¡got¡¡to
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡telling¡¡him¡¡about¡¡old¡¡Mississippi¡¡days¡¡of¡¡steam¡­boating¡¡glory¡¡and
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡grandeur¡¡as¡¡I¡¡saw¡¡them¡¡£¨during¡¡four¡¡years£©¡¡from¡¡the¡¡pilot¡­house¡£¡¡¡¡He
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡said£»¡¡¡¨What¡¡a¡¡virgin¡¡subject¡¡to¡¡hurl¡¡into¡¡a¡¡magazine£¡¡¨¡¡I¡¡hadn't
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡thought¡¡of¡¡that¡¡before¡£¡¡¡¡Would¡¡you¡¡like¡¡a¡¡series¡¡of¡¡papers¡¡to¡¡run
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡through¡¡three¡¡months¡¡or¡¡six¡¡or¡¡nineor¡¡about¡¡four¡¡months£»¡¡say£¿

Howells¡¡welcomed¡¡this¡¡offer¡¡as¡¡an¡¡echo¡¡of¡¡his¡¡own¡¡thought¡£¡¡¡¡He¡¡had¡¡come
from¡¡a¡¡piloting¡¡family¡¡himself£»¡¡and

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