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talk him out of that resolution。  I used all the arguments about the boys
being his oldest friends; how they all loved him; and how the joke had
been entirely for his own good; I pleaded with him; begged him to
reconsider; I went and got his money and his watch and laid them on the
table; but for a time it seemed hopeless。  And I could imagine those
fellows going behind the bars; and the sensation it would make in
California; and just as I was about to give it up he said:

〃'Well; Joe; I'll let it passthis time; I'll forgive them again; I've
had to do it so many times; but if I should see Denis McCarthy and Steve
Gillis mounting the scaffold to…morrow; and I could save them by turning
over my hand; I wouldn't do it!'

〃He canceled the lecture engagement; however; next morning; and the day
after left on the Pioneer Stage; by the way of Donner Lake; for
California。  The boys came rather sheepishly to see him off; but he would
make no show of relenting。  When they introduced themselves as
Beauregard; Stonewall Jackson; etc。; he merely said:

〃'Yes; and you'll all be behind the bars some day。  There's been a good
deal of robbery around here lately; and it's pretty clear now who did
it。'  They handed him a package containing the masks which the robbers
had worn。  He received it in gloomy silence; but as the stage drove away
he put his head out of the window; and after some pretty vigorous
admonition resumed his old smile; and called out: 'Good…by; friends;
good…by; thieves; I bear you no malice。'  So the heaviest joke was on his
tormentors after all。〃

This is the story of the famous Mark Twain robbery direct from
headquarters。  It has been garbled in so many ways that it seems worth
setting down in full。  Denis McCarthy; who joined him presently in San
Francisco; received a little more punishment there。

〃What kind of a trip did you boys have?〃 a friend asked of them。

Clemens; just recovering from a cold which the exposure on the Divide had
given him; smiled grimly:

〃Oh; pretty good; only Denis here mistook it for a spree。〃

He lectured again in San Francisco; this time telling the story of his
Overland trip in 1861; and he did the daring thing of repeating three
times the worn…out story of Horace Greeley's ride with Hank Monk; as
given later in 'Roughing It'。  People were deadly tired of that story out
there; and when he told it the first time; with great seriousness; they
thought he must be failing mentally。  They did not laughthey only felt
sorry。  He waited a little; as if expecting a laugh; and presently led
around to it and told it again。  The audience was astonished still more;
and pitied him thoroughly。  He seemed to be waiting pathetically in the
dead silence for their applause; then went on with his lecture; but
presently; with labored effort; struggled around to the old story again;
and told it for the third time。  The audience suddenly saw the joke then;
and became vociferous and hysterical in their applause; but it was a
narrow escape。  He would have been hysterical himself if the relief had
not came when it did。

'A side…light on the Horace Greeley story and on Mr。 Greeley's
eccentricities is furnished by Mr。 Goodman:

When I was going East in 1869 I happened to see Hank Monk just before I
started。  〃Mr。 Goodman;〃 he said; 〃you tell Horace Greeley that I want to
come East; and ask him to send me a pass。〃  〃All right; Hank;〃 I said;
〃I will。〃  It happened that when I got to New York City one of the first
men I met was Greeley。  〃Mr。 Greeley;〃 said; 〃I have a message for you
from Hank Monk。〃  Greeley bristled and glared at me。  〃Thatrascal?〃 he
said 〃He has done me more injury than any other man in America。〃'




LVI

BACK TO THE STATES

In the mean time Clemens had completed his plan for sailing; and had
arranged with General McComb; of the Alta California; for letters during
his proposed trip around the world。  However; he meant to visit his
people first; and his old home。  He could go back with means now; and
with the prestige of success。

〃I sail to…morrow per Oppositiontelegraphed you to…day;〃 he wrote on
December 14th; and a day later his note…book entry says:

     Sailed from San Francisco in Opposition (line) steamer America;
     Capt。  Wakeman; at noon; 15th Dec。; 1866。  Pleasant sunny day; hills
     brightly clad with green grass and shrubbery。

So he was really going home at last!  He had been gone five and a half
yearseventful; adventurous years that had made him over completely; at
least so far as ambitions and equipment were concerned。  He had came
away; in his early manhood; a printer and a pilot; unknown outside of his
class。  He was returning a man of thirty…one; with a fund of hard
experience; three added professionsmining; journalism; and lecturing
also with a new name; already famous on the sunset slopes of its
adoption; and beginning to be heard over the hills and far away。  In some
degree; at least; he resembled the prince of a fairy tale who; starting
out humble and unnoticed; wins his way through a hundred adventures and
returns with gifts and honors。

The homeward voyage was a notable one。  It began with a tempest a little
way out of San Franciscoa storm terrible but brief; that brought the
passengers from their berths to the deck; and for a time set them
praying。  Then there was Captain Ned Wakeman; a big; burly; fearless
sailor; who had visited the edges of all continents and archipelagos; who
had been born at sea; and never had a day's schooling in his life; but
knew the Bible by heart; who was full of human nature and profanity; and
believed he was the only man on the globe who knew the secret of the
Bible miracles。  He became a distinct personality in Mark Twain's work
the memory of him was an unfailing delight。  Captain 〃Ned Blakely;〃 in
'Roughing It'; who with his own hands hanged Bill Noakes; after reading
him promiscuous chapters from the Bible; was Captain Wakeman。  Captain
〃Stormfield;〃 who had the marvelous visit to heaven; was likewise Captain
Wakeman; and he appears in the 〃Idle Excursion〃 and elsewhere。

Another event of the voyage was crossing the Nicaragua Isthmusthe trip
across the lake and down the San Juan Rivera; brand…new experience;
between shores of splendid tropic tangle; gleaming with vivid life。  The
luxuriance got into his note…book。

Dark grottos; fairy festoons; tunnels; temples; columns; pillars; towers;
pilasters; terraces; pyramids; mounds; domes; walls; in endless confusion
of vine…workno shape known to architecture unimitatedand all so
webbed together that short distances within are only gained by glimpses。
Monkeys here and there; birds warbling; gorgeous plumaged birds on the
wing; Paradise itself; the imperial realm of beauty…nothing to wish for
to make it perfect。

But it was beyond the isthmus that the voyage loomed into proportions
somber and terrible。  The vessel they took there; the San Francisco;
sailed from Greytown January 1; 1867; the beginning of a memorable year
in Mark Twain's life。  Next day two cases of Asiatic cholera were
reported in the steerage。  There had been a rumor of it in Nicaragua; but
no one expected it on the ship。

The nature of the disease was not hinted at until evening; when one of
the men died。  Soon after midnight; the other followed。  A minister
making the voyage home; Rev。 J。 G。 Fackler; read the burial service。  The
gaiety of the passengers; who had become well acquainted during the
Pacific voyage; was subdued。  When the word 〃cholera〃 went among them;
faces grew grave and frightened。  On the morning of January 4th Reverend
Fackler's services were again required。  The dead man was put overboard
within half an hour after he had ceased to breathe。

Gloom settled upon the ship。  All steam was made to put into Key West。
Then some of the machinery gave way and the ship lay rolling; helplessly
becalmed in the fierce heat of the Gulf; while repairs were being made。
The work was done at a disadvantage; and the parts did not hold。  Time
and again they were obliged to lie to; in the deadly tropic heat;
listening to the hopeless hammering; wondering who would be the next to
be sewed up hastily in a blanket and slipped over the ship's side。  On
the 5th seven new cases of illness were reported。  One of the crew; a man
called 〃Shape;〃 was said to be dying。  A few hours later he was dead。  By
this time the Reverend Fackler himself had been taken。

〃So they are burying poor 'Shape' without benefit of clergy;〃 says the
note…book。

General consternation now began to prevail。  Then it was learned that the
ship's doctor had run out of medicines。  The passengers became
demoralized。  They believed their vessel was to become a charnel ship。
Strict sanitary orders were issued; and a hospital was improvised。

     Verily the ship is becoming a floating hospital herselfnot an hour
     passes but brings its fresh sensation; its new disaster; its
     melancholy tidings。  When I think of poor 〃Shape〃 and the preacher;
     both so well when I saw them yesterday evening; I realize that I
     myself may be dead to…morrow。

     Since the last two hours all laughter; all levity; has ceased on 

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