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was fast asleep before my head touched the pillow。







In the morning my tutor (he was a student of the Cracow



University) woke me up early; and as we were dressing remarked:



〃There seems to be a lot of people staying in this hotel。  I have



heard a noise of talking up till 11 o'clock?〃  This statement



surprised me; I had heard no noise whatever; having slept like a



top。







We went downstairs into the long and narrow dining…room with its



long and narrow table。  There were two rows of plates on it。  At



one of the many uncurtained windows stood a tall bony man with a



bald head set off by a bunch of black hair above each ear and



with a long black beard。  He glanced up from the paper he was



reading and seemed genuinely astonished at our intrusion。  By…



and…by more men came in。  Not one of them looked like a tourist。



Not a single woman appeared。  These men seemed to know each other



with some intimacy; but I cannot say they were a very talkative



lot。  The bald…headed man sat down gravely at the head of the



table。  It all had the air of a family party。  By…and…by; from



one of the vigorous servant…girls in national costume; we



discovered that the place was really a boarding…house for some



English engineers engaged at the works of the St。 Gothard Tunnel;



and I could listen my fill to the sounds of the English language;



as far as it is used at a breakfast…table by men who do not



believe in wasting many words on the mere amenities of life。







This was my first contact with British mankind apart from the



tourist kind seen in the hotels of Zurich and Lucernethe kind



which has no real existence in a workaday world。  I know now that



the bald…headed man spoke with a strong Scotch accent。  I have



met many of his kind since; both ashore and afloat。  The second



engineer of the steamer 〃Mavis〃; for instance; ought to have been



his twin brother。  I cannot help thinking that he really was;



though for some reasons of his own he assured me that he never



had a twin brother。  Anyway the deliberate bald…headed Scot with



the coal…black beard appeared to my boyish eyes a very romantic



and mysterious person。







We slipped out unnoticed。  Our mapped…out route led over the



Furca Pass towards the Rhone Glacier; with the further intention



of following down the trend of the Hasli Valley。  The sun was



already declining when we found ourselves on the top of the pass;



and the remark alluded to was presently uttered。







We sat down by the side of the road to continue the argument



begun half a mile or so before。  I am certain it was an argument



because I remember perfectly how my tutor argued and how without



the power of reply I listened with my eyes fixed obstinately on



the ground。  A stir on the road made me look upand then I saw



my unforgettable Englishman。  There are acquaintances of later



years; familiars; shipmates; whom I remember less clearly。  He



marched rapidly towards the east (attended by a hang…dog Swiss



guide) with the mien of an ardent and fearless traveller。  He was



clad in a knickerbocker suit; but as at the same time he wore



short socks under his laced boots; for reasons which whether



hygienic or conscientious were surely imaginative; his calves



exposed to the public gaze and to the tonic air of high



altitudes; dazzled the beholder by the splendour of their marble…



like condition and their rich tone of young ivory。  He was the



leader of a small caravan。  The light of a headlong; exalted



satisfaction with the world of men and the scenery of mountains



illumined his clean…cut; very red face; his short; silver…white



whiskers; his innocently eager and triumphant eyes。  In passing



he cast a glance of kindly curiosity and a friendly gleam of big;



sound; shiny teeth towards the man and the boy sitting like dusty



tramps by the roadside; with a modest knapsack lying at their



feet。  His white calves twinkled sturdily; the uncouth Swiss



guide with a surly mouth stalked like an unwilling bear at his



elbow; a small train of three mules followed in single file the



lead of this inspiring enthusiast。  Two ladies rode past one



behind the other; but from the way they sat I saw only their



calm; uniform backs; and the long ends of blue veils hanging



behind far down over their identical hat…brims。  His two



daughters surely。  An industrious luggage…mule; with unstarched



ears and guarded by a slouching; sallow driver; brought up the



rear。  My tutor; after pausing for a look and a faint smile;



resumed his earnest argument。







I tell you it was a memorable year!  One does not meet such an



Englishman twice in a lifetime。  Was he in the mystic ordering of



common events the ambassador of my future; sent out to turn the



scale at a critical moment on the top of an Alpine pass; with the



peaks of the Bernese Oberland for mute and solemn witnesses?  His



glance; his smile; the unextinguishable and comic ardour of his



striving…forward appearance helped me to pull myself together。



It must be stated that on that day and in the exhilarating



atmosphere of that elevated spot I had been feeling utterly



crushed。  It was the year in which I had first spoken aloud of my



desire to go to sea。  At first like those sounds that; ranging



outside the scale to which men's ears are attuned; remain



inaudible to our sense of hearing; this declaration passed



unperceived。  It was as if it had not been。  Later on; by trying



various tones I managed to arouse here and there a surprised



momentary attentionthe 〃What was that funny noise?〃 sort of



inquiry。  Later on it was〃Did you hear what that boy said?



What an extraordinary outbreak!〃  Presently a wave of scandalised



astonishment (it could not have been greater if I had announced



the intention of entering a Carthusian monastery) ebbing out of



the educational and academical town of Cracow spread itself over



several provinces。  It spread itself shallow but far…reaching。



It stirred up a mass of remonstrance; indignation; pitying



wonder; bitter irony and downright chaff。  I could hardly breathe



under its weight; and certainly had no words for an answer。



People wondered what Mr。 T。B。 would do now with his worrying



nephew and; I dare say; hoped kindly that he would make short



work of my nonsense。







What he did was to come down all the way from Ukraine to have it



out with me and to judge by himself; unprejudiced; impartial and



just; taking his stand on the ground of wisdom and affection。  As



far as is possible for a boy whose power of expression is still



unformed I opened the secret of my thoughts to him and he in



return allowed me a glimpse into his mind and heart; the first



glimpse of an inexhaustible and noble treasure of clear thought



and warm feeling; which through life was to be mine to draw upon



with a never…deceived love and confidence。  Practically; after



several exhaustive conversations; he concluded that he would not



have me later on reproach him for having spoiled my life by an



unconditional opposition。  But I must take time for serious



reflection。  And I must not only think of myself but of others;



weigh the claims of affection and conscience against my own



sincerity of purpose。  〃Think well what it all means in the



larger issues; my boy;〃 he exhorted me finally with special



friendliness。  〃And meantime try to get the best place you can at



the yearly examinations。〃







The scholastic year came to an end。  I took a fairly good place



at the exams。; which for me (for certain reasons) happened to be



a more difficult task than for other boys。  In that respect I



could enter with a good conscience upon that holiday which was



like a long visit pour prendre conge of the mainland of old



Europe I was to see so little of for the next four and twenty



years。  Such; however; was not the avowed purpose of that tour。



It was rather; I suspect; planned in order to distract and occupy



my thoughts in other directions。  Nothing had been said for



months of my going to sea。  But my attachment to my young tutor



and his influence over me were so well known that he must have



received a confidential mission to talk me out of my romantic



folly。  It was an excellently appropriate arrangement; as neither



he nor I had ever had a single glimpse of the sea in our lives。



That was to come by…and…by for both of us in Venice; from the



outer shore of Lido。  Meantime he had taken his mission to heart



so well that I began to feel crus

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