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lit by the party; the condition of the quarry was discovered to



be distinctly unsatisfactory。  It was not thinon the contrary;



it seemed unhealthily obese; its skin showed bare patches of an



unpleasant character。  However; they had not killed that dog for



the sake of the pelt。  He was large。 。 。He was eaten。 。 。The rest



is silence。 。 。







A silence in which a small boy shudders and says firmly:







〃I could not have eaten that dog。〃







And his grandmother remarks with a smile:







〃Perhaps you don't know what it is to be hungry。〃







I have learned something of it since。  Not that I have been



reduced to eat dog。  I have fed on the emblematical animal;



which; in the language of the volatile Gauls; is called la vache



enragee; I have lived on ancient salt junk; I know the taste of



shark; of trepang; of snake; of nondescript dishes containing



things without a namebut of the Lithuanian village dognever!



I wish it to be distinctly understood that it is not I but my



grand…uncle Nicholas; of the Polish landed gentry; Chevalier de



la Legion d'Honneur; &c。 &c。; who; in his young days; had eaten



the Lithuanian dog。







I wish he had not。  The childish horror of the deed clings



absurdly to the grizzled man。  I am perfectly helpless against



it。  Still if he really had to; let us charitably remember that



he had eaten him on active service; while bearing up bravely



against the greatest military disaster of modern history; and; in



a manner; for the sake of his country。  He had eaten him to



appease his hunger no doubt; but also for the sake of an



unappeasable and patriotic desire; in the glow of a great faith



that lives still; and in the pursuit of a great illusion kindled



like a false beacon by a great man to lead astray the effort of a



brave nation。







Pro patria!







Looked at in that light it appears a sweet and decorous meal。







And looked at in the same light my own diet of la vache enragee



appears a fatuous and extravagant form of self…indulgence; for



why should I; the son of a land which such men as these have



turned up with their ploughshares and bedewed with their blood;



undertake the pursuit of fantastic meals of salt junk and hard



tack upon the wide seas?  On the kindest view it seems an



unanswerable question。  Alas! I have the conviction that there



are men of unstained rectitude who are ready to murmur scornfully



the word desertion。  Thus the taste of innocent adventure may be



made bitter to the palate。  The part of the inexplicable should



be allowed for in appraising the conduct of men in a world where



no explanation is final。  No charge of faithlessness ought to be



lightly uttered。  The appearances of this perishable life are



deceptive like everything that falls under the judgment of our



imperfect senses。  The inner voice may remain true enough in its



secret counsel。  The fidelity to a special tradition may last



through the events of an unrelated existence; following



faithfully too the traced way of an inexplicable impulse。







It would take too long to explain the intimate alliance of



contradictions in human nature which makes love itself wear at



times the desperate shape of betrayal。  And perhaps there is no



possible explanation。  Indulgenceas somebody saidis the most



intelligent of all the virtues。  I venture to think that it is



one of the least common; if not the most uncommon of all。  I



would not imply by this that men are foolishor even most men。



Far from it。  The barber and the priest; backed by the whole



opinion of the village; condemned justly the conduct of the



ingenious hidalgo who; sallying forth from his native place;



broke the head of the muleteer; put to death a flock of



inoffensive sheep; and went through very doleful experiences in a



certain stable。  God forbid that an unworthy churl should escape



merited censure by hanging on to the stirrup…leather of the



sublime caballero。  His was a very noble; a very unselfish



fantasy; fit for nothing except to raise the envy of baser



mortals。  But there is more than one aspect to the charm of that



exalted and dangerous figure。  He; too; had his frailties。  After



reading so many romances he desired naively to escape with his



very body from the intolerable reality of things。  He wished to



meet eye to eye the valorous giant Brandabarbaran; Lord of



Arabia; whose armour is made of the skin of a dragon; and whose



shield; strapped to his arm; is the gate of a fortified city。  O



amiable and natural weakness!  O blessed simplicity of a gentle



heart without guile!  Who would not succumb to such a consoling



temptation?  Nevertheless it was a form of self…indulgence; and



the ingenious hidalgo of La Mancha was not a good citizen。  The



priest and the barber were not unreasonable in their strictures。



Without going so far as the old King Louis…Philippe; who used to



say in his exile; 〃The people are never in fault〃one may admit



that there must be some righteousness in the assent of a whole



village。  Mad!  Mad!  He who kept in pious meditation the ritual



vigil…of…arms by the well of an inn and knelt reverently to be



knighted at daybreak by the fat; sly rogue of a landlord; has



come very near perfection。  He rides forth; his head encircled by



a halothe patron saint of all lives spoiled or saved by the



irresistible grace of imagination。  But he was not a good



citizen。







Perhaps that and nothing else was meant by the well…remembered



exclamation of my tutor。







It was in the jolly year 1873; the very last year in which I have



had a jolly holiday。  There have been idle years afterwards;



jolly enough in a way and not altogether without their lesson;



but this year of which I speak was the year of my last schoolboy



holiday。  There are other reasons why I should remember that



year; but they are too long to state formally in this place。



Moreover they have nothing to do with that holiday。  What has to



do with the holiday is that before the day on which the remark



was made we had seen Vienna; the Upper Danube; Munich; the Falls



of the Rhine; the Lake of Constancein fact it was a memorable



holiday of travel。  Of late we had been tramping slowly up the



Valley of the Reuss。  It was a delightful time。  It was much more



like a stroll than a tramp。  Landing from a Lake of Lucerne



steamer in Fluellen; we found ourselves at the end of the second



day; with the dusk overtaking our leisurely footsteps; a little



way beyond Hospenthal。  This is not the day on which the remark



was made:  in the shadows of the deep valley and with the



habitations of men left some way behind; our thoughts ran not



upon the ethics of conduct but upon the simpler human problem of



shelter and food。  There did not seem anything of the kind in



sight; and we were thinking of turning back when suddenly at a



bend of the road we came upon a building; ghostly in the



twilight。







At that time the work on the St。 Gothard Tunnel was going on; and



that magnificent enterprise of burrowing was directly responsible



for the unexpected building; standing all alone upon the very



roots of the mountains。  It was long though not big at all; it



was low; it was built of boards; without ornamentation; in



barrack…hut style; with the white window…frames quite flush with



the yellow face of its plain front。  And yet it was an hotel; it



had even a name which I have forgotten。  But there was no gold…



laced door…keeper at its humble door。  A plain but vigorous



servant…girl answered our inquiries; then a man and woman who



owned the place appeared。  It was clear that no travellers were



expected; or perhaps even desired; in this strange hostelry;



which in its severe style resembled the house which surmounts the



unseaworthy…looking hulls of the toy Noah's Arks; the universal



possession of European childhood。  However; its roof was not



hinged and it was not full to the brim of slabsided and painted



animals of wood。  Even the live tourist animal was nowhere in



evidence。  We had something to eat in a long; narrow room at one



end of a long; narrow table; which; to my tired perception and to



my sleepy eyes; seemed as if it would tilt up like a see…saw



plank; since there was no one at the other end to balance it



against our two dusty and travel…stained figures。  Then we



hastened upstairs to bed in a room smelling of pine planks; and I



was fast asleep before my head touched the pillow。

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