the memoirs of marie antoinette-第23节

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　　Every　pattern　was　marked；　to　show　to　which　sort　it　belonged。　　The　first　femme　de　chambre　presented　this　book　to　the　Queen　on　her　awaking；　with　a　pincushion；　her　Majesty　stuck　pins　in　those　articles　which　she　chose　for　the　day；　…one　for　the　dress；　one　for　the　afternoon…undress；　and　one　for　the　full　evening　dress　for　card　or　supper　parties　in　the　private　apartments。　　The　book　was　then　taken　back　to　the　wardrobe；　and　all　that　was　wanted　for　the　day　was　soon　after　brought　in　in　large　taffety　wrappers。　　The　wardrobe　woman；　who　had　the　care　of　the　linen；　in　her　turn　brought　in　a　covered　basket　containing　two　or　three　chemises　and　handkerchiefs。　　The　morning　basket　was　called　pret　du　jour。　　In　the　evening　she　brought　in　one　containing　the　nightgown　and　nightcap；　and　the　stockings　for　the　next　morning；　this　basket　was　called　pret　de　la　nuit。　　They　were　in　the　department　of　the　lady　of　honour；　the　tirewoman　having　nothing　to　do　with　the　linen。　　Nothing　was　put　in　order　or　taken　care　of　by　the　Queen's　women。　　As　soon　as　the　toilet　was　over；　the　valets　and　porter　belonging　to　the　wardrobe　were　called　in；　and　they　carried　all　away　in　a　heap；　in　the　taffety　wrappers；　to　the　tirewoman's　wardrobe；　where　all　were　folded　up　again；　hung　up；　examined；　and　cleaned　with　so　much　regularity　and　care　that　even　the　cast…off　clothes　scarcely　looked　as　if　they　had　been　worn。　　The　tirewoman's　wardrobe　consisted　of　three　large　rooms　surrounded　with　closets；　some　furnished　with　drawers　and　others　with　shelves；　there　were　also　large　tables　in　each　of　these　rooms；　on　which　the　gowns　and　dresses　were　spread　out　and　folded　up。

For　the　winter　the　Queen　had　generally　twelve　full　dresses；　twelve　undresses　called　fancy　dresses；　and　twelve　rich　hoop　petticoats　for　the　card　and　supper　parties　in　the　smaller　apartments。

She　had　as　many　for　the　summer；　those　for　the　spring　served　likewise　for　the　autumn。　　All　these　dresses　were　discarded　at　the　end　of　each　season；　unless；　indeed；　she　retained　some　that　she　particularly　liked。　　I　am　not　speaking　of　muslin　or　cambric　gowns；　or　others　of　the　same　kindthey　were　lately　introduced；　but　such　as　these　were　not　renewed　at　each　returning　season；　they　were　kept　several　years。　　The　chief　women　were　charged　with　the　care　and　examination　of　the　diamonds；　this　important　duty　was　formerly　confided　to　the　tirewoman；　but　for　many　years　had　been　included　in　the　business　of　the　first　femmes　de　chambre。

The　public　toilet　took　place　at　noon。　　The　toilet…table　was　drawn　forward　into　the　middle　of　the　room。　　This　piece　of　furniture　was　generally　the　richest　and　most　ornamented　of　all　in　the　apartment　of　the　Princesses。　The　Queen　used　it　in　the　same　manner　and　place　for　undressing　herself　in　the　evening。　　She　went　to　bed　in　corsets　trimmed　with　ribbon；　and　sleeves　trimmed　with　lace；　and　wore　a　large　neck　handkerchief。　　The　Queen's　combing　cloth　was　presented　by　her　first　woman　if　she　was　alone　at　the　commencement　of　the　toilet；　or；　as　well　as　the　other　articles；　by　the　ladies　of　honour　if　they　were　come。　　At　noon　the　women　who　had　been　in　attendance　four　and　twenty　hours　were　relieved　by　two　women　in　full　dress；　the　first　woman　went　also　to　dress　herself。　　The　grandee　entrees　were　admitted　during　the　toilet；　sofas　were　placed　in　circles　for　the　superintendent；　the　ladies　of　honour；　and　tirewomen；　and　the　governess　of　the　children　of　France　when　she　came　there；　the　duties　of　the　ladies　of　the　bedchamber；　having　nothing　to　do　with　any　kind　of　domestic　or　private　functions；　did　not　begin　until　the　hour　of　going　out　to　mass；　they　waited　in　the　great　closet；　and　entered　when　the　toilet　was　over。　　The　Princes　of　the　blood；　captains　of　the　Guards；　and　all　great　officers　having　the　entry　paid　their　court　at　the　hour　of　the　toilet。　　The　Queen　saluted　by　nodding　her　head　or　bending　her　body；　or　leaning　upon　her　toilet…table　as　if　moving　to　rise；　the　last　mode　of　salutation　was　for　the　Princes　of　the　blood。　　The　King's　brothers　also　came　very　generally　to　pay　their　respects　to　her　Majesty　while　her　hair　was　being　dressed。　　In　the　earlier　years　of　the　reign　the　first　part　of　the　dressing　was　performed　in　the　bedchamber　and　according　to　the　laws　of　etiquette；　that　is　to　say；　the　lady　of　honour　put　on　the　chemise　and　poured　out　the　water　for　the　hands；　the　tirewoman　put　on　the　skirt　of　the　gown　or　full　dress；　adjusted　the　handkerchief；　and　tied　on　the　necklace。　　But　when　the　young　Queen　became　more　seriously　devoted　to　fashion；　and　the　head…dress　attained　so　extravagant　a　height　that　it　became　necessary　to　put　on　the　chemise　from　below；when；　in　short；　she　determined　to　have　her　milliner；　Mademoiselle　Benin；　with　her　whilst　she　was　dressing；　whom　the　ladies　would　have　refused　to　admit　to　any　share　in　the　honour　of　attending　on　the　Queen；　the　dressing　in　the　bedchamber　was　discontinued；　and　the　Queen；　leaving　her　toilet；　withdrew　into　her　closet　to　dress。

On　returning　into　her　chamber；　the　Queen；　standing　about　the　middle　of　it；　surrounded　by　the　superintendent；　the　ladies　of　honour　and　tirewomen；　her　ladies　of　the　palace；　the　chevalier　d'honneur；　the　chief　equerry；　her　clergy　ready　to　attend　her　to　mass；　and　the　Princesses　of　the　royal　family　who　happened　to　come；　accompanied　by　all　their　chief　attendants　and　ladies；　passed　in　order　into　the　gallery　as　in　going　to　mass。　　The　Queen's　signatures　were　generally　given　at　the　moment　of　entry　into　the　chamber。　　The　secretary　for　orders　presented　the　pen。　　Presentations　of　colonels　on　taking　leave　were　usually　made　at　this　time。　　Those　of　ladies；　and；　such　as　had　a　right　to　the　tabouret；　or　sitting　in　the　royal　presence；　were　made　on　Sunday　evenings　before　card…playing　began；　on　their　coming　in　from　paying　their　respects。　　Ambassadors　were　introduced　to　the　Queen　on　Tuesday　mornings；　accompanied　by　the　introducer　of　ambassadors　on　duty；　and　by　M。　de　Sequeville；　the　secretary　for　the　ambassadors。　　The　introducer　in　waiting　usually　came　to　the　Queen　at　her　toilet　to　apprise　her　of　the　presentations　of　foreigners　which　would　be　made。　　The　usher　of　the　chamber；　stationed　at　the　entrance；　opened　the　folding　doors　to　none　but　the　Princes　and　Princesses　of　the　royal　family；　and　announced　them　aloud。　　Quitting　his　post；　he　came　forward　to　name　to　the　lady　of　honour　the　persons　who　came　to　be　presented；　or　who　came　to　take　leave；　that　lady　again　named　them　to　the　Queen　at　the　moment　they　saluted　her；　if　she　and　the　tirewoman　were　absent；　the　first　woman　took　the　place　and　did　that　duty。　　The　ladies　of　the　bedchamber；　chosen　solely　as　companions　for　the　Queen；　had　no　domestic　duties　to　fulfil；　however　opinion　might　dignify　such　offices。　　The　King's　letter　in　appointing　them；　among　other　instructions　of　etiquette；　ran　thus：　〃having　chosen　you　to　bear　the　Queen　company。〃　　There　were　hardly　any　emoluments　accruing　from　this　place。

The　Queen　heard　mass　with　the　King　in　the　tribune；　facing　the　grand　altar　and　the　choir；　with　the　exception　of　the　days　of　high　ceremony；　when　their　chairs　were　placed　below　upon　velvet　carpets　fringed　with　gold。　These　days　were　marked　by　the　name　of　grand　chapel　day。

The　Queen　named　the　collector　beforehand；　and　informed　her　of　it　through　her　lady　of　honour；　who　was　besides　desired　to　send　the　purse　to　her。　The　collectors　were　almost　always　chosen　from　among　those　who　had　been　recently　presented。　　After　returning　from　mass　the　Queen　dined　every　Sunday　with　the　King　only；　in　public　in　the　cabinet　of　the　nobility；　a　room　leading　to　her　chamber。　　Titled　ladies　having　the　honours　sat　during　the　dinner　upon　folding…chairs　placed　on　each　side　of　the　table。　　Ladies　without　titles　stood　round　the　table；　the　captain　of　the　Guards　and　the　first　gentleman　of　the　chamber　were　behind　the　King's　chair；　behind　that　of　the　Queen　were　her　first　maitre　d'hotel；　her　chevalier　d'honneur；　and　the　chief　equerry。　　The　Queen's　maitre　d'hotel　was　furnished　with　a　large　staff；　six　or　seven　feet　in　length；　ornamented　with　golden　fleurs…de…lis；　and　surmounted　by　fleurs…de…lis　in　the　form　of　a　crown。　　He　entered　the　room　with　this　badge　of　his　office　to　announce　that　the　Queen　was　served。　The　comptroller　put　into　his　hands　the　card　of　the　dinner；　in　the　absence　of　the　maitre　d'hotel　he　presented　it　to　the　Queen　himself；　otherwise　he　only　did　him　the　honours　of　the　service。　　The　maitre　d'hotel　did　not　leave　his　place；　he　merely　gave　the　orders　for　serving　up　and　removing；　the　comptroller　and　gentlemen　serving　placed　the　various　dishes　upon　the　table；　receiving　them　from　the　inferior　servants。

The　Prince　nearest　to　the　crown　presented　water　to　wash　the　King's　hands　at　the　moment　he　placed　himself　at　table；　and　a　princess　did　the　same　service　to　the　Queen。

The　table　service　was　formerly　performed　for　the　Queen　by　the　lady　of　honour　and　four　women　in　full　dress；　this　part　of　the　women's　service　was　transferred　to　them　on　the　suppression　of　the　office　of　maids　of　honour。　The　Queen　put　an　end　to　this　etiquette　in　the　first　year　of　her　reign。　When　the　dinner　was　over　the　Queen　returned　without　the　King　to　her　apartment　with　her　women；　and　took　off　her　hoop　and　train。

This　unfortunate　Princess；　against　whom　the　opinions　of　the　French　people　were　at　length　so　much　excited；　possessed　qualities　which　deserved　to　obtain　th