the memoirs of marie antoinette-第21节
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en was desirous to afford herself one very innocent gratification； she had never seen the day break； and having now no other consent than that of the King to seek； she intimated her wish to him。 He agreed that she should go； at three o'clock in the morning； to the eminences of the gardens of Marly； and； unfortunately； little disposed to partake in her amusements； he himself went to bed。 Foreseeing some inconveniences possible in this nocturnal party； the Queen determined on having a number of people with her； and even ordered her waiting women to accompany her。 All precautions were ineffectual to prevent the effects of calumny； which thenceforward sought to diminish the general attachment that she had inspired。 A few days afterwards； the most wicked libel that appeared during the earlier years of her reign was circulated in Paris。 The blackest colours were employed to paint an enjoyment so harmless that there is scarcely a young woman living in the country who has not endeavoured to procure it for herself。 The verses which appeared on this occasion were entitled 〃Sunrise。〃
The Duc d'Orleans； then Duc de Chartres； was among those who accompanied the young Queen in her nocturnal ramble： he appeared very attentive to her at this epoch； but it was the only moment of his life in which there was any advance towards intimacy between the Queen and himself。 The King disliked the character of the Duc de Chartres； and the Queen always excluded him from her private society。 It is therefore without the slightest foundation that some writers have attributed to feelings of jealousy or wounded self…love the hatred which he displayed towards the Queen during the latter years of their existence。
It was on this first journey to Marly that Boehmer； the jeweller； appeared at Court；a man whose stupidity and avarice afterwards fatally affected the happiness and reputation of Marie Antoinette。 This person had； at great expense； collected six pear…formed diamonds of a prodigious size； they were perfectly matched and of the finest water。 The earrings which they composed had； before the death of Louis XV。； been destined for the Comtesse du Barry。
Boehmer； by the recommendation of several persons about the Court； came to offer these jewels to the Queen。 He asked four hundred thousand francs for them。 The young Princess could not withstand her wish to purchase them； and the King having just raised the Queen's income； which； under the former reign； had been but two hundred thousand livres； to one hundred thousand crowns a year； she wished to make the purchase out of her own purse； and not burthen the royal treasury with the payment。 She proposed to Boehmer to take off the two buttons which formed the tops of the clusters； as they could be replaced by two of her own diamonds。 He consented； and then reduced the price of the earrings to three hundred and sixty thousand francs； the payment for which was to be made by instalments； and was discharged in the course of four or five years by the Queen's first femme de chambre； deputed to manage the funds of her privy purse。 I have omitted no details as to the manner in which the Queen first became possessed of these jewels； deeming them very needful to place in its true light the too famous circumstance of the necklace； which happened near the end of her reign。
It was also on this first journey to Marly that the Duchesse de Chartres； afterwards Duchesse d'Orleans； introduced into the Queen's household Mademoiselle Bertin； a milliner who became celebrated at that time for the total change she effected in the dress of the French ladies。
It may be said that the mere admission of a milliner into the house of the Queen was followed by evil consequences to her Majesty。 The skill of the milliner； who was received into the household； in spite of the custom which kept persons of her description out of it； afforded her the opportunity of introducing some new fashion every day。 Up to this time the Queen had shown very plain taste in dress； she now began to make it a principal occupation； and she was of course imitated by other women。
All wished instantly to have the same dress as the Queen； and to wear the feathers and flowers to which her beauty； then in its brilliancy； lent an indescribable charm。 The expenditure of the younger ladies was necessarily much increased； mothers and husbands murmured at it； some few giddy women contracted debts； unpleasant domestic scenes occurred； in many families coldness or quarrels arose； and the general report was；that the Queen would be the ruin of all the French ladies。
Fashion continued its fluctuating progress； and head…dresses； with their superstructures of gauze； flowers； and feathers； became so lofty that the women could not find carriages high enough to admit them； and they were often seen either stooping； or holding their heads out of the windows。 Others knelt down in order to manage these elevated objects of ridicule with less danger。
＇If the use of these extravagant feathers and head…dresses had continued； say the memoirs of that period very seriously； it would have effected a revolution in architecture。 It would have been found necessary to raise the doors and ceilings of the boxes at the theatre； and particularly the bodies of carriages。 It was not without mortification that the King observed the Queen's adoption of this style of dress： she was never so lovely in his eyes as when unadorned by art。 One day Carlin； performing at Court as harlequin； stuck in his hat； instead of the rabbit's tail； its prescribed ornament； a peacock's feather of excessive length。 This new appendage； which repeatedly got entangled among the scenery； gave him an opportunity for a great deal of buffoonery。 There was some inclination to punish him； but it was presumed that he had not assumed the feather without authority。…NOTE BY THE EDITOR。＇
Innumerable caricatures； exhibited in all directions； and some of which artfully gave the features of the Queen； attacked the extravagance of fashion； but with very little effect。 It changed only； as is always the case； through the influence of inconstancy and time。
The Queen's toilet was a masterpiece of etiquette； everything was done in a prescribed form。 Both the dame d'honneur and the dame d'atours usually attended and officiated； assisted by the first femme de chambre and two ordinary women。 The dame d'atours put on the petticoat； and handed the gown to the Queen。 The dame d'honneur poured out the water for her hands and put on her linen。 When a princess of the royal family happened to be present while the Queen was dressing； the dame d'honneur yielded to her the latter act of office； but still did not yield it directly to the Princesses of the blood； in such a case the dame d'honneur was accustomed to present the linen to the first femme de chambre； who； in her turn； handed it to the Princess of the blood。 Each of these ladies observed these rules scrupulously as affecting her rights。 One winter's day it happened that the Queen； who was entirely undressed； was just going to put on her shift； I held it ready unfolded for her； the dame d'honneur came in； slipped off her gloves； and took it。 A scratching was heard at the door； it was opened； and in came the Duchesse d'Orleans： her gloves were taken off； and she came forward to take the garment； but as it would have been wrong in the dame d'honneur to hand it to her she gave it to me； and I handed it to the Princess。 More scratching it was Madame la Comtesse de Provence； the Duchesse d'Orl4ans handed her the linen。 All this while the Queen kept her arms crossed upon her bosom； and appeared to feel cold； Madame observed her uncomfortable situation； and； merely laying down her handkerchief without taking off her gloves； she put on the linen； and in doing so knocked the Queen's cap off。 The Queen laughed to conceal her impatience； but not until she had muttered several times； 〃How disagreeable！ how tiresome！〃
All this etiquette； however inconvenient； was suitable to the royal dignity； which expects to find servants in all classes of persons； beginning even with the brothers and sisters of the monarch。
Speaking here of etiquette； I do not allude to majestic state； appointed for days of ceremony in all Courts。 I mean those minute ceremonies that were pursued towards our Kings in their inmost privacies； in their hours of pleasure； in those of pain； and even during the most revolting of human infirmities。
These servile rules were drawn up into a kind of code； they offered to a Richelieu； a La Rochefoucauld and a Duras； in the exercise of their domestic functions； opportunities of intimacy useful to their interests； and their vanity was flattered by customs which converted the right to give a glass of water； to put on a dress； and to remove a basin； into honourable prerogatives。
Princes thus accustomed to be treated as divinities naturally ended by believing that they were of a distinct nature； of a purer essence than the rest of mankind。
This sort of etiquette； which led our Princes to be treated in private as idols； made them in public martyrs to decorum。 Marie Antoinette found in t
