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showers of soot。







To a man who has never seen the extraordinary nobility; strength;



and grace that the devoted generations of ship…builders have



evolved from some pure nooks of their simple souls; the sight that



could be seen five…and…twenty years ago of a large fleet of



clippers moored along the north side of the New South Dock was an



inspiring spectacle。  Then there was a quarter of a mile of them;



from the iron dockyard…gates guarded by policemen; in a long;



forest…like perspective of masts; moored two and two to many stout



wooden jetties。  Their spars dwarfed with their loftiness the



corrugated…iron sheds; their jibbooms extended far over the shore;



their white…and…gold figure…heads; almost dazzling in their purity;



overhung the straight; long quay above the mud and dirt of the



wharfside; with the busy figures of groups and single men moving to



and fro; restless and grimy under their soaring immobility。







At tide…time you would see one of the loaded ships with battened…



down hatches drop out of the ranks and float in the clear space of



the dock; held by lines dark and slender; like the first threads of



a spider's web; extending from her bows and her quarters to the



mooring…posts on shore。  There; graceful and still; like a bird



ready to spread its wings; she waited till; at the opening of the



gates; a tug or two would hurry in noisily; hovering round her with



an air of fuss and solicitude; and take her out into the river;



tending; shepherding her through open bridges; through dam…like



gates between the flat pier…heads; with a bit of green lawn



surrounded by gravel and a white signal…mast with yard and gaff;



flying a couple of dingy blue; red; or white flags。







This New South Dock (it was its official name); round which my



earlier professional memories are centred; belongs to the group of



West India Docks; together with two smaller and much older basins



called Import and Export respectively; both with the greatness of



their trade departed from them already。  Picturesque and clean as



docks go; these twin basins spread side by side the dark lustre of



their glassy water; sparely peopled by a few ships laid up on buoys



or tucked far away from each other at the end of sheds in the



corners of empty quays; where they seemed to slumber quietly



remote; untouched by the bustle of men's affairs … in retreat



rather than in captivity。  They were quaint and sympathetic; those



two homely basins; unfurnished and silent; with no aggressive



display of cranes; no apparatus of hurry and work on their narrow



shores。  No railway…lines cumbered them。  The knots of labourers



trooping in clumsily round the corners of cargo…sheds to eat their



food in peace out of red cotton handkerchiefs had the air of



picnicking by the side of a lonely mountain pool。  They were



restful (and I should say very unprofitable); those basins; where



the chief officer of one of the ships involved in the harassing;



strenuous; noisy activity of the New South Dock only a few yards



away could escape in the dinner…hour to stroll; unhampered by men



and affairs; meditating (if he chose) on the vanity of all things



human。  At one time they must have been full of good old slow West



Indiamen of the square…stern type; that took their captivity; one



imagines; as stolidly as they had faced the buffeting of the waves



with their blunt; honest bows; and disgorged sugar; rum; molasses;



coffee; or logwood sedately with their own winch and tackle。  But



when I knew them; of exports there was never a sign that one could



detect; and all the imports I have ever seen were some rare cargoes



of tropical timber; enormous baulks roughed out of iron trunks



grown in the woods about the Gulf of Mexico。  They lay piled up in



stacks of mighty boles; and it was hard to believe that all this



mass of dead and stripped trees had come out of the flanks of a



slender; innocent…looking little barque with; as likely as not; a



homely woman's name … Ellen this or Annie that … upon her fine



bows。  But this is generally the case with a discharged cargo。



Once spread at large over the quay; it looks the most impossible



bulk to have all come there out of that ship along…side。







They were quiet; serene nooks in the busy world of docks; these



basins where it has never been my good luck to get a berth after



some more or less arduous passage。  But one could see at a glance



that men and ships were never hustled there。  They were so quiet



that; remembering them well; one comes to doubt that they ever



existed … places of repose for tired ships to dream in; places of



meditation rather than work; where wicked ships … the cranky; the



lazy; the wet; the bad sea boats; the wild steerers; the



capricious; the pig…headed; the generally ungovernable … would have



full leisure to take count and repent of their sins; sorrowful and



naked; with their rent garments of sailcloth stripped off them; and



with the dust and ashes of the London atmosphere upon their



mastheads。  For that the worst of ships would repent if she were



ever given time I make no doubt。  I have known too many of them。



No ship is wholly bad; and now that their bodies that had braved so



many tempests have been blown off the face of the sea by a puff of



steam; the evil and the good together into the limbo of things that



have served their time; there can be no harm in affirming that in



these vanished generations of willing servants there never has been



one utterly unredeemable soul。







In the New South Dock there was certainly no time for remorse;



introspection; repentance; or any phenomena of inner life either



for the captive ships or for their officers。  From six in the



morning till six at night the hard labour of the prison…house;



which rewards the valiance of ships that win the harbour went on



steadily; great slings of general cargo swinging over the rail; to



drop plumb into the hatchways at the sign of the gangway…tender's



hand。  The New South Dock was especially a loading dock for the



Colonies in those great (and last) days of smart wool…clippers;



good to look at and … well … exciting to handle。  Some of them were



more fair to see than the others; many were (to put it mildly)



somewhat over…masted; all were expected to make good passages; and



of all that line of ships; whose rigging made a thick; enormous



network against the sky; whose brasses flashed almost as far as the



eye of the policeman at the gates could reach; there was hardly one



that knew of any other port amongst all the ports on the wide earth



but London and Sydney; or London and Melbourne; or London and



Adelaide; perhaps with Hobart Town added for those of smaller



tonnage。  One could almost have believed; as her gray…whiskered



second mate used to say of the old Duke of S…; that they knew the



road to the Antipodes better than their own skippers; who; year in;



year out; took them from London … the place of captivity … to some



Australian port where; twenty…five years ago; though moored well



and tight enough to the wooden wharves; they felt themselves no



captives; but honoured guests。















XXXIV。















These towns of the Antipodes; not so great then as they are now;



took an interest in the shipping; the running links with 〃home;〃



whose numbers confirmed the sense of their growing importance。



They made it part and parcel of their daily interests。  This was



especially the case in Sydney; where; from the heart of the fair



city; down the vista of important streets; could be seen the wool…



clippers lying at the Circular Quay … no walled prison…house of a



dock that; but the integral part of one of the finest; most



beautiful; vast; and safe bays the sun ever shone upon。  Now great



steam…liners lie at these berths; always reserved for the sea



aristocracy … grand and imposing enough ships; but here to…day and



gone next week; whereas the general cargo; emigrant; and passenger



clippers of my time; rigged with heavy spars; and built on fine



lines; used to remain for months together waiting for their load of



wool。  Their names attained the dignity of household words。  On



Sundays and holidays the citizens trooped down; on visiting bent;



and the lonely officer on duty solaced himself by playing the



cicerone … especially to the citizenesses with engaging manners and



a well…developed sense of the fun that may be got out of the



inspection of a ship's cabins and state…rooms。  The tinkle of more



or less untuned cottage pianos floated out of open stern…ports till



the gas…lamps began to twinkle in the streets; and the ship's



night…watchman; coming sleepily on duty after his unsatisfactory



day slumbers; hauled down the flags and fastened a ligh

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