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and pencil behind his ear; kept one eye aloft upon his riggers and



the other down the hatchway on the stevedores; and watched the



disposition of his ship's cargo; knowing that even before she



started he was already doing his best to secure for her an easy and



quick passage。







The hurry of the times; the loading and discharging organization of



the docks; the use of hoisting machinery which works quickly and



will not wait; the cry for prompt despatch; the very size of his



ship; stand nowadays between the modern seaman and the thorough



knowledge of his craft。







There are profitable ships and unprofitable ships。  The profitable



ship will carry a large load through all the hazards of the



weather; and; when at rest; will stand up in dock and shift from



berth to berth without ballast。  There is a point of perfection in



a ship as a worker when she is spoken of as being able to SAIL



without ballast。  I have never met that sort of paragon myself; but



I have seen these paragons advertised amongst ships for sale。  Such



excess of virtue and good…nature on the part of a ship always



provoked my mistrust。  It is open to any man to say that his ship



will sail without ballast; and he will say it; too; with every mark



of profound conviction; especially if he is not going to sail in



her himself。  The risk of advertising her as able to sail without



ballast is not great; since the statement does not imply a warranty



of her arriving anywhere。  Moreover; it is strictly true that most



ships will sail without ballast for some little time before they



turn turtle upon the crew。







A shipowner loves a profitable ship; the seaman is proud of her; a



doubt of her good looks seldom exists in his mind; but if he can



boast of her more useful qualities it is an added satisfaction for



his self…love。







The loading of ships was once a matter of skill; judgment; and



knowledge。  Thick books have been written about it。  〃Stevens on



Stowage〃 is a portly volume with the renown and weight (in its own



world) of Coke on Littleton。  Stevens is an agreeable writer; and;



as is the case with men of talent; his gifts adorn his sterling



soundness。  He gives you the official teaching on the whole



subject; is precise as to rules; mentions illustrative events;



quotes law cases where verdicts turned upon a point of stowage。  He



is never pedantic; and; for all his close adherence to broad



principles; he is ready to admit that no two ships can be treated



exactly alike。







Stevedoring; which had been a skilled labour; is fast becoming a



labour without the skill。  The modern steamship with her many holds



is not loaded within the sailor…like meaning of the word。  She is



filled up。  Her cargo is not stowed in any sense; it is simply



dumped into her through six hatchways; more or less; by twelve



winches or so; with clatter and hurry and racket and heat; in a



cloud of steam and a mess of coal…dust。  As long as you keep her



propeller under water and take care; say; not to fling down barrels



of oil on top of bales of silk; or deposit an iron bridge…girder of



five ton or so upon a bed of coffee…bags; you have done about all



in the way of duty that the cry for prompt despatch will allow you



to do。















XIV。















The sailing…ship; when I knew her in her days of perfection; was a



sensible creature。  When I say her days of perfection; I mean



perfection of build; gear; seaworthy qualities and case of



handling; not the perfection of speed。  That quality has departed



with the change of building material。  No iron ship of yesterday



ever attained the marvels of speed which the seamanship of men



famous in their time had obtained from their wooden; copper…sheeted



predecessors。  Everything had been done to make the iron ship



perfect; but no wit of man had managed to devise an efficient



coating composition to keep her bottom clean with the smooth



cleanness of yellow metal sheeting。  After a spell of a few weeks



at sea; an iron ship begins to lag as if she had grown tired too



soon。  It is only her bottom that is getting foul。  A very little



affects the speed of an iron ship which is not driven on by a



merciless propeller。  Often it is impossible to tell what



inconsiderate trifle puts her off her stride。  A certain



mysteriousness hangs around the quality of speed as it was



displayed by the old sailing…ships commanded by a competent seaman。



In those days the speed depended upon the seaman; therefore; apart



from the laws; rules; and regulations for the good preservation of



his cargo; he was careful of his loading; … or what is technically



called the trim of his ship。  Some ships sailed fast on an even



keel; others had to be trimmed quite one foot by the stern; and I



have heard of a ship that gave her best speed on a wind when so



loaded as to float a couple of inches by the head。







I call to mind a winter landscape in Amsterdam … a flat foreground



of waste land; with here and there stacks of timber; like the huts



of a camp of some very miserable tribe; the long stretch of the



Handelskade; cold; stone…faced quays; with the snow…sprinkled



ground and the hard; frozen water of the canal; in which were set



ships one behind another with their frosty mooring…ropes hanging



slack and their decks idle and deserted; because; as the master



stevedore (a gentle; pale person; with a few golden hairs on his



chin and a reddened nose) informed me; their cargoes were frozen…in



up…country on barges and schuyts。  In the distance; beyond the



waste ground; and running parallel with the line of ships; a line



of brown; warm…toned houses seemed bowed under snow…laden roofs。



From afar at the end of Tsar Peter Straat; issued in the frosty air



the tinkle of bells of the horse tramcars; appearing and



disappearing in the opening between the buildings; like little toy



carriages harnessed with toy horses and played with by people that



appeared no bigger than children。







I was; as the French say; biting my fists with impatience for that



cargo frozen up…country; with rage at that canal set fast; at the



wintry and deserted aspect of all those ships that seemed to decay



in grim depression for want of the open water。  I was chief mate;



and very much alone。  Directly I had joined I received from my



owners instructions to send all the ship's apprentices away on



leave together; because in such weather there was nothing for



anybody to do; unless to keep up a fire in the cabin stove。  That



was attended to by a snuffy and mop…headed; inconceivably dirty;



and weirdly toothless Dutch ship…keeper; who could hardly speak



three words of English; but who must have had some considerable



knowledge of the language; since he managed invariably to interpret



in the contrary sense everything that was said to him。







Notwithstanding the little iron stove; the ink froze on the swing…



table in the cabin; and I found it more convenient to go ashore



stumbling over the arctic waste…land and shivering in glazed



tramcars in order to write my evening letter to my owners in a



gorgeous cafe in the centre of the town。  It was an immense place;



lofty and gilt; upholstered in red plush; full of electric lights



and so thoroughly warmed that even the marble tables felt tepid to



the touch。  The waiter who brought me my cup of coffee bore; by



comparison with my utter isolation; the dear aspect of an intimate



friend。  There; alone in a noisy crowd; I would write slowly a



letter addressed to Glasgow; of which the gist would be:  There is



no cargo; and no prospect of any coming till late spring



apparently。  And all the time I sat there the necessity of getting



back to the ship bore heavily on my already half…congealed spirits



… the shivering in glazed tramcars; the stumbling over the snow…



sprinkled waste ground; the vision of ships frozen in a row;



appearing vaguely like corpses of black vessels in a white world;



so silent; so lifeless; so soulless they seemed to be。







With precaution I would go up the side of my own particular corpse;



and would feel her as cold as ice itself and as slippery under my



feet。  My cold berth would swallow up like a chilly burial niche my



bodily shivers and my mental excitement。  It was a cruel winter。



The very air seemed as hard and trenchant as steel; but it would



have taken much more than this to extinguish my sacred fire for the



exercise of my craft。  No young man of twenty…four appointed chief



mate for the first time in his life would have let that Dutch



tenacious winter penetrate into his heart。  I think that in those



days I never forgot the fact of my elevation for five consecutive



minutes。  I fancy it kept me warm; even in my slu

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