the book of tea(茶书)-第2节
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absurd cry of the Yellow Peril； fails to realise that Asia may also awaken to
the cruel sense of the White Disaster。 You may laugh at us for having
〃too much tea；〃 but may we not suspect that you of the West have 〃no tea〃
in your constitution？
Let us stop the continents from hurling epigrams at each other； and
be sadder if not wiser by the mutual gain of half a hemisphere。 We have
developed along different lines； but there is no reason why one should
not supplement the other。 You have gained expansion at the cost of
restlessness； we have created a harmony which is weak against aggression。
Will you believe it？the East is better off in some respects than the West！
Strangely enough humanity has so far met in the tea…cup。 It is the only
Asiatic ceremonial which commands universal esteem。 The white man
has scoffed at our religion and our morals； but has accepted the brown
beverage without hesitation。 The afternoon tea is now an important
function in Western society。 In the delicate clatter of trays and saucers；
in the soft rustle of feminine hospitality； in the common catechism about
cream and sugar； we know that the Worship of Tea is established beyond
question。 The philosophic resignation of the guest to the fate awaiting
him in the dubious decoction proclaims that in this single instance the
Oriental spirit reigns supreme。
The earliest record of tea in European writing is said to be found in the
statement of an Arabian traveller； that after the year 879 the main sources
of revenue in Canton were the duties on salt and tea。 Marco Polo records
the deposition of a Chinese minister of finance in 1285 for his arbitrary
augmentation of the tea…taxes。 It was at the period of the great
discoveries that the European people began to know more about the
extreme Orient。 At the end of the sixteenth century the Hollanders
brought the news that a pleasant drink was made in the East from the
leaves of a bush。 The travellers Giovanni Batista Ramusio （1559）； L。
Almeida （1576）； Maffeno （1588）； Tareira （1610）； also mentioned tea。 In
the last…named year ships of the Dutch East India Company brought the
first tea into Europe。 It was known in France in 1636； and reached
Russia in 1638。 England welcomed it in 1650 and spoke of it as 〃That
excellent and by all physicians approved China drink； called by the
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Chineans Tcha； and by other nations Tay； alias Tee。〃
Like all good things of the world； the propaganda of Tea met with
opposition。 Heretics like Henry Saville （1678） denounced drinking it as
a filthy custom。 Jonas Hanway （Essay on Tea； 1756） said that men
seemed to lose their stature and comeliness； women their beauty through
the use of tea。 Its cost at the start （about fifteen or sixteen shillings a
pound） forbade popular consumption； and made it 〃regalia for high
treatments and entertainments； presents being made thereof to princes and
grandees。〃 Yet in spite of such drawbacks tea…drinking spread with
marvellous rapidity。 The coffee…houses of London in the early half of the
eighteenth century became； in fact； tea…houses； the resort of wits like
Addison and Steele； who beguiled themselves over their 〃dish of tea。〃
The beverage soon became a necessity of lifea taxable matter。 We are
reminded in this connection what an important part it plays in modern
history。 Colonial America resigned herself to oppression until human
endurance gave way before the heavy duties laid on Tea。 American
independence dates from the throwing of tea…chests into Boston harbour。
There is a subtle charm in the taste of tea which makes it irresistible
and capable of idealisation。 Western humourists were not slow to mingle
the fragrance of their thought with its aroma。 It has not the arrogance
of wine； the self… consciousness of coffee； nor the simpering innocence of
cocoa。 Already in 1711； says the Spectator： 〃I would therefore in a
particular manner recommend these my speculations to all well…regulated
families that set apart an hour every morning for tea； bread and butter； and
would earnestly advise them for their good to order this paper to be
punctually served up and to be looked upon as a part of the tea…
equipage。〃 Samuel Johnson draws his own portrait as 〃a hardened and
shameless tea drinker； who for twenty years diluted his meals with only
the infusion of the fascinating plant； who with tea amused the evening；
with tea solaced the midnight； and with tea welcomed the morning。〃
Charles Lamb； a professed devotee； sounded the true note of Teaism
when he wrote that the greatest pleasure he knew was to do a good
action by stealth； and to have it found out by accident。 For Teaism is the
art of concealing beauty that you may discover it； of suggesting what you
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dare not reveal。 It is the noble secret of laughing at yourself； calmly yet
thoroughly； and is thus humour itself；the smile of philosophy。 All
genuine humourists may in this sense be called tea…philosophers；
Thackeray； for instance； and of course； Shakespeare。 The poets of the
Decadence （when was not the world in decadence？）； in their protests
against materialism； have； to a certain extent； also opened the way to
Teaism。 Perhaps nowadays it is our demure contemplation of the
Imperfect that the West and the East can meet in mutual consolation。
The Taoists relate that at the great beginning of the No…Beginning；
Spirit and Matter met in mortal combat。 At last the Yellow Emperor； the
Sun of Heaven； triumphed over Shuhyung； the demon of darkness and
earth。 The Titan； in his death agony； struck his head against the solar
vault and shivered the blue dome of jade into fragments。 The stars lost
their nests； the moon wandered aimlessly among the wild chasms of the
night。 In despair the Yellow Emperor sought far and wide for the repairer
of the Heavens。 He had not to search in vain。 Out of the Eastern sea
rose a queen； the divine Niuka； horn…crowned and dragon…tailed；
resplendent in her armor of fire。 She welded the five…coloured rainbow
in her magic cauldron and rebuilt the Chinese sky。 But it is told that
Niuka forgot to fill two tiny crevices in the blue firmament。 Thus
began the dualism of lovetwo souls rolling through space and never at
rest until they join together to complete the universe。 Everyone has to
build anew his sky of hope and peace。
The heaven of modern humanity is indeed shattered in the Cyclopean
struggle for wealth and power。 The world is groping in the shadow of
egotism and vulgarity。 Knowledge is bought through a bad conscience；
benevolence practiced for the sake of utility。 The East and the West； like
two dragons tossed in a sea of ferment； in vain strive to regain the jewel of
life。 We need a Niuka again to repair the grand devastation； we await the
great Avatar。 Meanwhile； let us have a sip of tea。 The afternoon glow is
brightening the bamboos； the fountains are bubbling with delight； the
soughing of the pines is heard in our kettle。 Let us dream of evanescence；
and linger in the beautiful foolishness of things。
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II。 The Schools of Tea。
