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Now¡¡the¡¡journey¡¡to¡¡the¡¡mountain¡¡was¡¡in¡¡the¡¡time¡¡of¡¡the¡¡east¡¡wind¡¡when¡¡no¡¡rain¡¡falls¡¡in¡¡Lombock¡£¡¡And¡¡soon¡¡after¡¡the¡¡krisses¡¡were¡¡made¡¡it¡¡was¡¡the¡¡time¡¡of¡¡the¡¡rice¡¡harvest£»¡¡and¡¡the¡¡chiefs¡¡of¡¡districts¡¡and¡¡of¡¡villages¡¡brought¡¡their¡¡tax¡¡to¡¡the¡¡Rajah¡¡according¡¡to¡¡the¡¡number¡¡heads¡¡in¡¡their¡¡villages¡£¡¡And¡¡to¡¡those¡¡that¡¡wanted¡¡but¡¡little¡¡of¡¡the¡¡full¡¡amount£»¡¡the¡¡Rajah¡¡said¡¡nothing£»¡¡but¡¡when¡¡those¡¡came¡¡who¡¡brought¡¡only¡¡half¡¡or¡¡a¡¡fourth¡¡part¡¡of¡¡what¡¡was¡¡strictly¡¡due£»¡¡he¡¡said¡¡to¡¡them¡¡mildly£»¡¡¡¨The¡¡needles¡¡which¡¡you¡¡sent¡¡from¡¡your¡¡village¡¡were¡¡many¡¡more¡¡than¡¡came¡¡from¡¡such¡­a¡­one's¡¡village£»¡¡yet¡¡your¡¡tribute¡¡is¡¡less¡¡than¡¡his£»¡¡go¡¡back¡¡and¡¡see¡¡who¡¡it¡¡is¡¡that¡¡has¡¡not¡¡paid¡¡the¡¡tax¡£¡¨¡¡And¡¡the¡¡next¡¡year¡¡the¡¡produce¡¡of¡¡the¡¡tax¡¡increased¡¡greatly£»¡¡for¡¡they¡¡feared¡¡that¡¡the¡¡Rajah¡¡might¡¡justly¡¡kill¡¡those¡¡who¡¡a¡¡second¡¡time¡¡kept¡¡back¡¡the¡¡right¡¡tribute¡£¡¡And¡¡so¡¡the¡¡Rajah¡¡became¡¡very¡¡rich£»¡¡and¡¡increased¡¡the¡¡number¡¡of¡¡his¡¡soldiers£»¡¡and¡¡gave¡¡golden¡¡jewels¡¡to¡¡his¡¡wives£»¡¡and¡¡bought¡¡fine¡¡black¡¡horses¡¡from¡¡the¡¡white¡­skinned¡¡Hollanders£»¡¡and¡¡made¡¡great¡¡feasts¡¡when¡¡his¡¡children¡¡were¡¡born¡¡or¡¡were¡¡married£»¡¡and¡¡none¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Rajahs¡¡or¡¡Sultans¡¡among¡¡the¡¡Malays¡¡were¡¡so¡¡great¡¡or¡¡powerful¡¡as¡¡the¡¡Rajah¡¡of¡¡Lombock¡£

And¡¡the¡¡twelve¡¡sacred¡¡krisses¡¡had¡¡great¡¡virtue¡£¡¡And£»¡¡when¡¡any¡¡sickness¡¡appeared¡¡in¡¡a¡¡village¡¡one¡¡of¡¡them¡¡was¡¡sent¡¡for£»¡¡and¡¡sometimes¡¡the¡¡sickness¡¡went¡¡away£»¡¡and¡¡then¡¡the¡¡sacred¡¡kris¡¡was¡¡taken¡¡back¡¡again¡¡with¡¡great¡¡Honour£»¡¡and¡¡the¡¡head¡¡men¡¡of¡¡the¡¡village¡¡came¡¡to¡¡tell¡¡the¡¡Rajah¡¡of¡¡its¡¡miraculous¡¡power£»¡¡and¡¡to¡¡thank¡¡him¡£¡¡And¡¡sometimes¡¡the¡¡sickness¡¡would¡¡not¡¡go¡¡away£»¡¡and¡¡then¡¡everybody¡¡was¡¡convinced¡¡that¡¡there¡¡had¡¡been¡¡a¡¡mistake¡¡in¡¡the¡¡number¡¡of¡¡needles¡¡sent¡¡from¡¡that¡¡village£»¡¡and¡¡therefore¡¡the¡¡sacred¡¡kris¡¡had¡¡no¡¡effect£»¡¡and¡¡had¡¡to¡¡be¡¡taken¡¡back¡¡again¡¡by¡¡the¡¡head¡¡men¡¡with¡¡heavy¡¡hearts£»¡¡but¡¡still£»¡¡with¡¡all¡¡honourfor¡¡was¡¡not¡¡the¡¡fault¡¡their¡¡own£¿

CHAPTER¡¡XIII¡£

TIMOR¡£

£¨COUPANG£»¡¡1857¡­1869¡£¡¡DELLI£»¡¡1861¡££©

THE¡¡island¡¡of¡¡Timor¡¡is¡¡about¡¡three¡¡hundred¡¡miles¡¡long¡¡and¡¡sixty¡¡wide£»¡¡and¡¡seems¡¡to¡¡form¡¡the¡¡termination¡¡of¡¡the¡¡great¡¡range¡¡of¡¡volcanic¡¡islands¡¡which¡¡begins¡¡with¡¡Sumatra¡¡more¡¡than¡¡two¡¡thousand¡¡miles¡¡to¡¡the¡¡west¡£¡¡It¡¡differs¡¡however¡¡very¡¡remarkably¡¡from¡¡all¡¡the¡¡other¡¡islands¡¡of¡¡the¡¡chain¡¡in¡¡not¡¡possessing¡¡any¡¡active¡¡volcanoes£»¡¡with¡¡the¡¡one¡¡exception¡¡of¡¡Timor¡¡Peak¡¡near¡¡the¡¡centre¡¡of¡¡the¡¡island£»¡¡which¡¡was¡¡formerly¡¡active£»¡¡but¡¡was¡¡blown¡¡up¡¡during¡¡an¡¡eruption¡¡in¡¡1638¡¡and¡¡has¡¡since¡¡been¡¡quiescent¡£¡¡In¡¡no¡¡other¡¡part¡¡of¡¡Timor¡¡do¡¡there¡¡appear¡¡to¡¡be¡¡any¡¡recent¡¡igneous¡¡rocks£»¡¡so¡¡that¡¡it¡¡can¡¡hardly¡¡be¡¡classed¡¡as¡¡a¡¡volcanic¡¡island¡£¡¡Indeed¡¡its¡¡position¡¡is¡¡just¡¡outside¡¡of¡¡the¡¡great¡¡volcanic¡¡belt£»¡¡which¡¡extends¡¡from¡¡Flores¡¡through¡¡Ombay¡¡and¡¡Wetter¡¡to¡¡Banda¡£

I¡¡first¡¡visited¡¡Timor¡¡in¡¡1857£»¡¡staying¡¡a¡¡day¡¡at¡¡Coupang£»¡¡the¡¡chief¡¡Dutch¡¡town¡¡at¡¡the¡¡west¡¡end¡¡of¡¡the¡¡island£»¡¡and¡¡again¡¡in¡¡May¡¡1859£»¡¡when¡¡I¡¡stayed¡¡a¡¡fortnight¡¡in¡¡the¡¡same¡¡neighbourhood¡£¡¡In¡¡the¡¡spring¡¡of¡¡1861¡¡I¡¡spent¡¡four¡¡months¡¡at¡¡Delli£»¡¡the¡¡capital¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Portuguese¡¡possessions¡¡in¡¡the¡¡eastern¡¡part¡¡of¡¡the¡¡island¡£

The¡¡whole¡¡neighbourhood¡¡of¡¡Coupang¡¡appears¡¡to¡¡have¡¡been¡¡elevated¡¡at¡¡a¡¡recent¡¡epoch£»¡¡consisting¡¡of¡¡a¡¡rugged¡¡surface¡¡of¡¡coral¡¡rock£»¡¡which¡¡rises¡¡in¡¡a¡¡vertical¡¡wall¡¡between¡¡the¡¡beach¡¡and¡¡the¡¡town£»¡¡whose¡¡low£»¡¡white£»¡¡red¡­tiled¡¡houses¡¡give¡¡it¡¡an¡¡appearance¡¡very¡¡similar¡¡to¡¡other¡¡Dutch¡¡settlements¡¡in¡¡the¡¡East¡£¡¡The¡¡vegetation¡¡is¡¡everywhere¡¡scanty¡¡and¡¡scrubby¡£¡¡Plants¡¡of¡¡the¡¡families¡¡Apocynaceae¡¡and¡¡Euphorbiacea£»¡¡abound£»¡¡but¡¡there¡¡is¡¡nothing¡¡that¡¡can¡¡be¡¡called¡¡a¡¡forest£»¡¡and¡¡the¡¡whole¡¡country¡¡has¡¡a¡¡parched¡¡and¡¡desolate¡¡appearance£»¡¡contrasting¡¡strongly¡¡with¡¡the¡¡lofty¡¡forest¡¡trees¡¡and¡¡perennial¡¡verdure¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Moluccas¡¡or¡¡of¡¡Singapore¡£¡¡The¡¡most¡¡conspicuous¡¡feature¡¡of¡¡the¡¡vegetation¡¡was¡¡the¡¡abundance¡¡of¡¡fine¡¡fanleaved¡¡palms¡¡£¨Borassus¡¡flabelliformis£©£»¡¡from¡¡the¡¡leaves¡¡of¡¡which¡¡are¡¡constructed¡¡the¡¡strong¡¡and¡¡durable¡¡water¡­buckets¡¡in¡¡general¡¡use£»¡¡and¡¡which¡¡are¡¡much¡¡superior¡¡to¡¡those¡¡formed¡¡from¡¡any¡¡other¡¡species¡¡of¡¡palm¡£¡¡From¡¡the¡¡same¡¡tree£»¡¡palm¡­wine¡¡and¡¡sugar¡¡are¡¡made£»¡¡and¡¡the¡¡common¡¡thatch¡¡for¡¡houses¡¡formed¡¡of¡¡the¡¡leaves¡¡lasts¡¡six¡¡or¡¡seven¡¡years¡¡without¡¡removal¡£¡¡Close¡¡to¡¡the¡¡town¡¡I¡¡noticed¡¡the¡¡foundation¡¡of¡¡a¡¡ruined¡¡house¡¡below¡¡high¡­water¡¡mark£»¡¡indicating¡¡recent¡¡subsidence¡£¡¡Earthquakes¡¡are¡¡not¡¡severe¡¡here£»¡¡and¡¡are¡¡so¡¡infrequent¡¡and¡¡harmless¡¡that¡¡the¡¡chief¡¡houses¡¡are¡¡built¡¡of¡¡stone¡£

The¡¡inhabitants¡¡of¡¡Coupang¡¡consist¡¡of¡¡Malays£»¡¡Chinese£»¡¡and¡¡Dutch£»¡¡besides¡¡the¡¡natives£»¡¡so¡¡that¡¡there¡¡are¡¡many¡¡strange¡¡and¡¡complicated¡¡mixtures¡¡among¡¡the¡¡population¡£¡¡There¡¡is¡¡one¡¡resident¡¡English¡¡merchant£»¡¡and¡¡whalers¡¡as¡¡well¡¡as¡¡Australian¡¡ships¡¡often¡¡come¡¡here¡¡for¡¡stores¡¡and¡¡water¡£¡¡The¡¡native¡¡Timorese¡¡preponderate£»¡¡and¡¡a¡¡very¡¡little¡¡examination¡¡serves¡¡to¡¡show¡¡that¡¡they¡¡have¡¡nothing¡¡in¡¡common¡¡with¡¡Malays£»¡¡but¡¡are¡¡much¡¡more¡¡closely¡¡allied¡¡to¡¡the¡¡true¡¡Papuans¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Aru¡¡Islands¡¡and¡¡New¡¡Guinea¡£¡¡They¡¡are¡¡tall£»¡¡have¡¡pronounced¡¡features£»¡¡large¡¡somewhat¡¡aquiline¡¡noses£»¡¡and¡¡frizzly¡¡hair£»¡¡and¡¡are¡¡generally¡¡of¡¡a¡¡dusky¡¡brown¡¡colour¡£¡¡The¡¡way¡¡in¡¡which¡¡the¡¡women¡¡talk¡¡to¡¡each¡¡other¡¡and¡¡to¡¡the¡¡men£»¡¡their¡¡loud¡¡voices¡¡and¡¡laughter£»¡¡and¡¡general¡¡character¡¡of¡¡self¡­¡¡assertion£»¡¡would¡¡enable¡¡an¡¡experienced¡¡observer¡¡to¡¡decide£»¡¡even¡¡without¡¡seeing¡¡them£»¡¡that¡¡they¡¡were¡¡not¡¡Malays¡£

Mr¡£¡¡Arndt£»¡¡a¡¡German¡¡and¡¡the¡¡Government¡¡doctor£»¡¡invited¡¡me¡¡to¡¡stay¡¡at¡¡his¡¡house¡¡while¡¡in¡¡Coupang£»¡¡and¡¡I¡¡gladly¡¡accepted¡¡his¡¡offer£»¡¡as¡¡I¡¡only¡¡intended¡¡making¡¡a¡¡short¡¡visit¡£¡¡We¡¡at¡¡first¡¡began¡¡speaking¡¡French£»¡¡but¡¡he¡¡got¡¡on¡¡so¡¡badly¡¡that¡¡we¡¡soon¡¡passed¡¡insensibly¡¡into¡¡Malay£»¡¡and¡¡we¡¡afterwards¡¡held¡¡long¡¡discussions¡¡on¡¡literary£»¡¡scientific£»¡¡and¡¡philosophical¡¡questions¡¡in¡¡that¡¡semi¡­barbarous¡¡language£»¡¡whose¡¡deficiencies¡¡we¡¡made¡¡up¡¡by¡¡the¡¡free¡¡use¡¡of¡¡French¡¡or¡¡Latin¡¡words¡£

After¡¡a¡¡few¡¡walks¡¡in¡¡the¡¡neighbourhood¡¡of¡¡the¡¡town£»¡¡I¡¡found¡¡such¡¡a¡¡poverty¡¡of¡¡insects¡¡and¡¡birds¡¡that¡¡I¡¡determined¡¡to¡¡go¡¡for¡¡a¡¡few¡¡days¡¡to¡¡the¡¡island¡¡of¡¡Semao¡¡at¡¡the¡¡western¡¡extremity¡¡of¡¡Timor£»¡¡where¡¡I¡¡heard¡¡that¡¡there¡¡was¡¡forest¡¡country¡¡with¡¡birds¡¡not¡¡found¡¡at¡¡Coupang¡£¡¡With¡¡some¡¡difficulty¡¡I¡¡obtained¡¡a¡¡large¡¡dugout¡¡boat¡¡with¡¡outriggers£»¡¡to¡¡take¡¡me¡¡over¡¡a¡¡distance¡¡of¡¡about¡¡twenty¡¡miles¡£¡¡I¡¡found¡¡the¡¡country¡¡pretty¡¡well¡¡wooded£»¡¡but¡¡covered¡¡with¡¡shrubs¡¡and¡¡thorny¡¡bushes¡¡rather¡¡than¡¡forest¡¡trees£»¡¡and¡¡everywhere¡¡excessively¡¡parched¡¡and¡¡dried¡¡up¡¡by¡¡the¡¡long¡­continued¡¡dry¡¡season¡£¡¡I¡¡stayed¡¡at¡¡the¡¡village¡¡of¡¡Oeassa£»¡¡remarkable¡¡for¡¡its¡¡soap¡¡springs¡£¡¡One¡¡of¡¡these¡¡is¡¡in¡¡the¡¡middle¡¡of¡¡the¡¡village£»¡¡bubbling¡¡out¡¡from¡¡a¡¡little¡¡cone¡¡of¡¡mud¡¡to¡¡which¡¡the¡¡ground¡¡rises¡¡all¡¡round¡¡like¡¡a¡¡volcano¡¡in¡¡miniature¡£¡¡The¡¡water¡¡has¡¡a¡¡soapy¡¡feel¡¡and¡¡produces¡¡a¡¡strong¡¡lather¡¡when¡¡any¡¡greasy¡¡substance¡¡is¡¡washed¡¡in¡¡it¡£¡¡It¡¡contains¡¡alkali¡¡and¡¡iodine£»¡¡in¡¡such¡¡quantities¡¡as¡¡to¡¡destroy¡¡all¡¡vegetation¡¡for¡¡some¡¡distance¡¡around¡£¡¡Close¡¡by¡¡the¡¡village¡¡is¡¡one¡¡of¡¡the¡¡finest¡¡springs¡¡I¡¡have¡¡ever¡¡seen£»¡¡contained¡¡in¡¡several¡¡rocky¡¡basins¡¡communicating¡¡by¡¡narrow¡¡channels¡£¡¡These¡¡have¡¡been¡¡neatly¡¡walled¡¡where¡¡required¡¡and¡¡partly¡¡levelled£»¡¡and¡¡form¡¡fine¡¡natural¡¡baths¡£¡¡The¡¡water¡¡is¡¡well¡¡tasted¡¡and¡¡clear¡¡as¡¡crystal£»¡¡and¡¡the¡¡basins¡¡are¡¡surrounded¡¡by¡¡a¡¡grove¡¡of¡¡lofty¡¡many¡­stemmed¡¡banyan¡­trees£»¡¡which¡¡keep¡¡them¡¡always¡¡cool¡¡and¡¡shady£»¡¡and¡¡add¡¡greatly¡¡to¡¡the¡¡picturesque¡¡beauty¡¡of¡¡the¡¡scene¡£

The¡¡village¡¡consists¡¡of¡¡curious¡¡little¡¡houses¡¡very¡¡different¡¡from¡¡any¡¡I¡¡have¡¡seen¡¡elsewhere¡£¡¡They¡¡are¡¡of¡¡an¡¡oval¡¡figure£»¡¡and¡¡the¡¡walls¡¡are¡¡made¡¡of¡¡sticks¡¡about¡¡four¡¡feet¡¡high¡¡placed¡¡close¡¡together¡£¡¡From¡¡this¡¡rises¡¡a¡¡high¡¡conical¡¡roof¡¡thatched¡¡with¡¡grass¡£¡¡The¡¡only¡¡opening¡¡is¡¡a¡¡door¡¡about¡¡three¡¡feet¡¡high¡£¡¡The¡¡people¡¡are¡¡like¡¡the¡¡Timorese¡¡with¡¡frizzly¡¡or¡¡wavy¡¡hair¡¡and¡¡of¡¡a¡¡coppery¡¡brown¡¡colour¡£¡¡The¡¡better¡¡class¡¡appear¡¡to¡¡have¡¡a¡¡mixture¡¡of¡¡some¡¡superior¡¡race¡¡which¡¡has¡¡much¡¡improved¡¡their¡¡features¡£¡¡I¡¡saw¡¡in¡¡Coupang¡¡some¡¡chiefs¡¡from¡¡the¡¡island¡¡of¡¡Savu¡¡further¡¡west£»¡¡who¡¡presented¡¡characters¡¡very¡¡distinct¡¡from¡¡either¡¡the¡¡Malay¡¡or¡¡Papuan

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