cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第82节

按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！


luxury　in　which　none　could　indulge　but　the　rich。　The　fishermen　profited
by　the　reform　and　only　caught　sufficient　for　the　minimum　demand；　but　at
the　same　time　that　they　reduced　their　own　labour　and　consequently　the
supply　of　fish；　they　also　took　advantage　of　the　new　law　of　free　trade；
and　advanced　their　prices　in　extortionate　proportion。　Instead　of　the
self…evident　prosperity　that　would　benefit　all　classes；　the　sudden
liberty　to　which　the　Cypriote　was　unaccustomed　acted　diametrically
against　all　English　expectations；　and　for　the　time　ruined　the　market。
This　was　told　me　by　Colonel　Warren　himself；　and　the　failure　of　the
apparently　wholesome　reform　is　suggestive　of　the　danger　that　may　result
in　the　too　sudden　enfranchisement　of　those　races　which　from　a　long
series　of　oppression　are　unfit　for　perfect　liberty。

At　the　same　time　there　can　be　no　doubt　that　the　vexatious　and　arbitrary
systems　of　taxation　pursued　in　collecting　the　〃dimes〃　has　prevented　the
extension　of　market　gardens；　and　were　this　tax　remitted；　I　cannot
imagine　any　more　lucrative　occupation　than　the　growth　of　vegetables　of
the　best　quality　for　the　FREE　markets　of　the　principal　towns。

Some　encouragement　is　necessary　in　promoting　exhibitions；　or
horticultural　shows；　accompanied　by　substantial　prizes；　in　various
localities；　and　I　should　not　be　dismayed　by　the　failure　of　the　first
well…meant　attempt　at　reform　in　Limasol。

When　I　was　at　Limasol　in　May　the　price　of　cauliflowers　was　2　pence　the
oke　（2。75　lbs）。　Fish　was　dear　at　2　shillings　the　oke；　mutton　8　pence　the
oke。　Beef　is　seldom　eaten　by　the　Cypriotes；　potatoes　are　good；　and　are
usually　1　penny　the　lb。　Flour；　best；　8　pence　the　oke。　If　a　sheep　should
be　purchased　alive；　and　be　killed　for　home　consumption；　the　mutton
should　not　exceed　3　pence　per　lb。　for　the　best　quality；　leaving　the
skin；　head；　&c。；　as　profit。

There　are　two　varieties　of　sheep；　the　fat…tailed　species　supplies　the
best　mutton；　but　the　wool　of　both　is　coarse；　and　is　exported　to　Trieste
and　Marseilles　to　the　amount　of　about　400；000　lbs。　annually。　A　large
trade　in　lamb　skins　is　a　necessary　result　of　the　slaughter　of　a
considerable　proportion　of　lambs　every　winter　and　spring；　owing　to　the
usual　scarcity　of　pasturage；　which　limits　the　increase　of　the　flocks。
The　entire　yield　of　skins　is　absorbed　by　Trieste　and　Marseilles。

A　sheep　in　good　condition　of　the　fat…tailed　species　weighs　when　dressed；
without　the　head；　16　okes；　or　44　lbs。　Fowls　in　the　country　can　generally
be　purchased　for　1　shilling　each；　but　they　are　double　that　price　in　the
market…towns。　Turkeys　fetch　about　4　or　5　shillings　each；　pigeons　6
pence；　fish　is　about　2　shillings　the　oke；　or　8　pence　the　lb。；　milk　about
4　pence　a　quart；　eggs　from　24　to　30　for　one　shilling。

The　grapes　are　the　best　fruit　in　Cyprus；　these　are　really　good；　and　in
some　instances　would　compare　favourably　with　the　hot…house　produce　of
England。　The　best　varieties　can　be　purchased　at　the　vineyards　for　less
than　1　penny　the　lb。　The　above　prices　prove　that　the　expense　of
necessaries　is　moderate；　and　the　actual　cost　of　existence　low；　but　the
want　of　good　servants　is　a　serious　disadvantage。

At　some　future　time　Cyprus　will　become　the　resort　of　delicate　persons　to
escape　the　winter　and　spring　of　England；　as　the　climate　of　the　southern
portion　of　the　island　is　most　enjoyable　during　the　cool　season。　In　the
neighbourhood　of　Limasol　there　are　many　excellent　sites　for　building；　in
picturesque　spots　within　two　or　three　miles　of　the　town。　At　present
there　is　no　adequate　comfort　for　invalids；　and　the　hotels　are　hardly
adapted　for　persons　who　are　accustomed　to　luxury。　The　commencement　is
attended　with　risk；　and　it　would　be　dangerous　under　the　existing
conditions　of　the　island　to　build　and　furnish　an　hotel　with　grounds　and
gardens　sufficiently　attractive　for　English　visitors。　There　is　no　direct
communication　from　England；　which　effectually　debars　Cyprus　from　an
influx　of　travellers。　It　is　necessary　to　land　at　Alexandria　either　from
Marseilles　or　Brindisi；　and　thence　to　re…ship　in　small　and　uncomfortable
steamers；　which　are　by　no　means　suitable　for　ladies　or　invalids。　The
extra　expense；　and　above　all　the　trouble　and　delay　of　landing　in　Egypt
and　again　embarking；　together　with　the　cost　of　hotel　charges　at
Alexandria；　are　quite　sufficient　to　deter　strangers　from　visiting
Cyprus。　The　first　necessary　step　will　be　the　establishment　of　direct
communication　from　Marseilles　and　Brindisi；　or　from　Trieste。　In　that
case；　a　commencement　might　be　made　by　a　small　company　of　friends　who
determine　to　visit　Cyprus　annually；　and　to　arrange　an　hotel　upon　some
favourable　site　near　Limasol；　which　they　will　themselves　occupy；　and
which　can　be　extended　according　to　future　requirements。　English　people
are　somewhat　like　sheep　in　following　each　other；　and　a　quiet　beginning
in　this　simple　but　convenient　form　would　quickly　develop；　and　Cyprus
would　be　linked　with　the　beaten　paths　of　tourists。　The　neighbourhood　of
Kyrenia　is　the　most　beautiful；　but　during　winter　it　is　exposed　to　severe
north　winds　from　the　snowy　mountains。

So　much　has　been　written　and　spoken　against　the　climate　of　Cyprus　that
an　unprejudiced　account　may　be　acceptable。　There　are　serious
disadvantages　to　those　who　by　their　official　position　are　obliged　to
remain　in　the　low　country　during　the　summer　months；　where　the　extreme
heat　must　always　be　prejudicial　to　the　health　of　Europeans。　From　the
middle　of　October　to　May　the　climate　is　most　agreeable；　but　the　five
intervening　months　should　be　passed　at　higher　altitudes；　which；　as　I
have　already　described；　afford　a　variety　of　climates。

Neither　Lady　Baker　nor　myself　or　servants　had　any　climatic　ailment
throughout　our　journeys　in　every　portion　of　the　island。　A　horsekeeper
had　fever　while　at　Famagousta；　but　he　was　a　native　who　had　suffered
previously；　and　the　fit　was　a　return　of　chronic　ague；　my　own　people
never　required　a　dose　of　medicine　although　we　were　living　in　tents
through　winter　and　summer。

The　water　is　generally　wholesome；　therefore　dysentery　and　bowel
complaints　are　rare；　CONSUMPTION　IS　UNKNOWN；　and　pulmonary　affections
are　uncommon。　Fevers；　including　those　of　a　typhoid　character；　and　ague
from　malaria；　are　the　usual　types；　outbreaks　of　small…pox　have　been
reduced　by　general　vaccination。　The　improvement　in　sanitary　regulations
will　no　doubt　diminish　the　occurrence　of　typhoid　fevers；　which　even　now
are　rare　considering　the　filth　of　the　villages　and　the　generally　dirty
habits　of　the　population。

Hydrophobia　among　dogs　is　very　rare；　and　distemper　among　puppies　is
unknown。　Pigs　are　the　general　scavengers　in　the　Cypriote　villages；　and
the　flesh　of　these　filthy　feeders　is　much　esteemed　by　the　Christian
inhabitants　during　the　winter　months。　In　the　monasteries；　which；　from
their　great　altitude　among　the　mountains；　are　occasionally　snowed　up　and
excluded　from　communication；　a　winter　supply　of　stores　is　laid　up　during
the　autumn。　The　pigs　and　the　fattest　goats　are　killed；　and　salted　in　a
most　peculiar　manner。　Without　removing　a　bone；　the　animal　is　split　from
the　neck　along　the　abdomen　throughout；　and　it　is　laid　completely　open
like　a　smoked　haddock。　Every　joint　is　most　carefully　dislocated；　even　to
the　shoulder…blade　bones；　and　remains　in　its　place。　The　flesh　is　neatly
detached　from　every　bone；　and　in　this　form　the　carcase　is　salted；　and
stretched　out　in　the　sun　to　dry。　When　prepared　it　resembles　a　shield；　as
it　remains　perfectly　flat；　the　back　presenting　a　smooth　surface；　while
the　inside　represents　a　beautiful　specimen　of　comparative　anatomy；　every
joint　dislocated；　but　secured　by　the　original　integument　to　the　socket；
and　every　bone　cleanly　detached；　but　undisturbed　from　its　original
position。　The　dried　body　looks　like　a　surgical　preparation　carefully
arranged　for　an　explanatory　lecture。

The　common　and　low　quality　of　food　of　the　lower　classes；　and　especially
of　the　agricultural　population；　must　induce　a　want　of　stamina　which　is
unable　to　resist　the　fever　in　malarious　districts；　and　this　results　in
chronic　disease　of　the　spleen。　I　have　already　described　the　general
protuberance　of　the　abdomen　among　the　children　throughout　the　Messaria
and　the　Carpas　districts；　all　of　whom　are　more　or　less　affected　by
splenetic　diseases。　On　the　mountains　a　marked　difference　is　observed；　as
throughout　the　numerous　villages　at　high　altitudes　the　children　are　as
healthy　as　those　of　England；　although　poorly　clad　in　the　home…made
cotton…stuffs　of　the　country。

I　have　already　remarked　the　absence　of　flannel　or　other　woollen　material
worn　next　the　skin；　the　natives　prefer　their　own　manufactures　to　those
of　Europe；　and　as　they　grow　the　cotton；　which　is　spun　and　woven　into
cloth　by　their　own　women；　there　is　no　actual　outlay　of　coin。　Some　of　the
native　material　is　very　superior　in　strength　to　the　machine…made　stuffs
of　Manchester；　especially　a　blue　stout　cotton　with　a　thin　red　line　that
is　in　general　request　both　for　men　and　women。　The　only　woollen　stuff
that　is　manufactured　in　Cyprus　is　confined　to　Nicosia；　where　the　dark
brown　and　immensely　thick　capotes　are　made　for　the　winter　wear　of　the
common　people。　A　cart…driver　during　the　halt　in　a　winter　night　s