cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第59节

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articles　being　fixed　at　a　common　standard！　According　to　this　absurd　rule
inferior　mutton　would　fetch　an　equal　price　with　the　best　quality：　the
natural　consequence　ensued；　that　only　inferior　meat　was　introduced；　to
the　exclusion　of　all　other。　The　supply　of　fish　was　extremely　irregular；
and　they　were　generally　small　and　dear。　Upon　some　occasions　we　purchased
good　red　mullet；　also　a　larger　fish　of　the　bass　species；　but　there　were
only　a　few　fishermen；　who　required　an　opposition　to　induce　activity　and
moderate　prices。　Their　nets　were　made　of　exceedingly　fine　twine；　and　the
smallness　of　the　mesh　denoted　a　scarcity　of　the　larger　species　of　fish。

A　number　of　Maltese　settlers　were　arriving；　to　whom　lands　had　been
granted　by　the　government　in　the　neighbourhood　of　Limasol；　this
excellent　arrangement　will　have　the　effect　of　infusing　a　new　spirit
among　the　people　by　the　introduction　of　fresh　blood；　and　the　well…known
fishermen　of　Malta　will　of　themselves　be　a　boon　to　the　large　towns；
where　a　regular　demand　may　be　depended　upon　at　a　reasonable　price。

There　was　nothing　to　induce　a　longer　stay　at　Limasol；　and　I　resolved
upon　Trooditissa　monastery　as　the　position　for　a　mountain　residence
during　the　summer　months。　Upon　Kiepert's　map；　which　is　the　best　I　have
seen　of　Cyprus；　this　point　was　placed　among　the　angles　in　the　various
crests　and　ridges　of　the　Troodos　mountain；　and　was　marked　by　measurement
as　4340　feet　above　the　sea…level。　The　new　government　road　extended　from
Limasol　to　Platraes；　from　which　a　good　mule…path　led　to　the　camp
prepared　for　the　20th　Regiment　and　the　Royal　Engineers　at　an　altitude　of
5740　feet。　It　appeared　to　me　that　in　north　latitude　35　degrees　this　was
an　unnecessary　elevation。　My　old　residence　at　Newera　Ellia　in　Ceylon　was
6210　feet　above　the　sea　in　north　latitude　6　degrees　30'；　and　in　that　low
latitude　we　had　sharp　frosts　at　night。　Any　heights　approaching　6000　feet
in　north　latitude　35　degrees　would；　I　imagined；　become　disagreeably
chilly　in　the　morning　and　evening；　at　seasons　when　in　the　low　country
the　heat　would　still　be　too　oppressive　for　a　return　from　the　mountain
sanatorium。

The　mean　temperature　at　Limasol　from　1st　May　to　18th　had　been　at　7　A。M。
65　degrees；　at　3　P。M。　78。6　degrees；　during　which　interval　there　had　been
sudden　variations　of　temperature；　ranging　from　a　minimum　of　56　degrees
to　84　degrees。　On　the　11th　May；　having　engaged　twenty…three　mules　for
our　tents；　baggage；　and　party；　we　started　from　Limasol　for　Trooditissa。
The　dog　Merry；　that　had　been　bitten　by　the　snake；　had　lain　for　days　in　a
state　of　stupor；　black　and　swollen；　I　had　poured　quantities　of　olive…oil
down　his　throat；　as　he　could　not　eat；　and　at　length　I　gave　him　a　dose　of
two　grains　of　calomel；　with　three　grains　of　emetic　tartar。　After　this　he
slowly　recovered；　the　ear　that　was　bitten　mortified；　and　was　cut　off；
but　the　dog　was　sufficiently　restored　to　accompany　us　upon　the　march；
together　with　his　companion　Wise。　We　were　now　about　to　enter　the　great
vine…growing　district　of　Cyprus；　which　produces　the　large　exportations
that　form　the　chief　industry　of　Limasol。

At　a　distance　of　a　mile　from　our　camp　we　entered　the　new　government　road
which　connected　Limasol　with　Platraes；　thirty　miles　distant。　The　country
quickly　assumed　an　agreeable　character；　undulations　and　watercourses
were　more　or　less　covered　with　trees；　and　the　road　scarped　out　of　the
steep　sides　exhibited　the　cretaceous　formation　similar　to　that　between
Larnaca　and　Lefkosia。　Wild　lavender　was　just　blooming　upon　many　portions
of　the　way；　while　along　the　rocky　courses　of　ravines　the　oleanders　were
in　the　richest　blossom。　The　road　was　furnished　with　mile…posts；　and　the
mules　ambled　along　at　a　little　more　than　five　miles　an　hour。　I　found
considerable　fault　in　the　low　gradients　（one　in　thirty）；　which　had
produced　a　road　unnecessary　for　the　vehicles　of　the　country；　at　a
proportionate　outlay；　it　was　altogether　too　good；　and　would　have　been
excellent　trotting…ground　for　a　light　phaeton　and　pair。　As　there　was　no
such　vehicle　in　the　island；　the　beautifully　traced　highway　exhibited　a
model　of　engineering　that　was　scarcely　appreciated　by　the　natives；　who
invariably　took　the　short　and　direct　cuts　to　avoid　the　circuitous
zigzags　in　descending　the　numerous　valleys　and　in　rounding　the　deep
ravines。　After　a　ride　of　twelve　miles　through　a　beautiful　country；　well
wooded；　and　comprising　a　succession　of　wild　hills　and　deep　gorges；　which
formed　torrents　in　the　wet　season；　we　arrived　at　a　river　flowing　in　a
clear　but　extremely　shallow　and　narrow　stream　beneath　cliffs　of
cretaceous　limestone。　The　banks　were　richly　clad　with　rosy　oleanders；
myrtles；　mastic　shrubs；　and　the　shade　of　several　fine　old　plane…trees　in
full　foliage　invited　us　at　once　to　halt　immediately　upon　the　edge　of　the
rippling　stream。　This　spot　was　known　as　Zigu；　where　an　ancient　stone
bridge；　with　pointed　arches；　crossed　the　ravine　about　a　hundred　paces
above　the　new　wooden　bridge　erected　by　the　Royal　Engineers。　This　was　a
most　charming　spot　for　luncheon；　and　the　dense　shade　of　the　planes　was
far　more　agreeable　than　the　shelter　of　a　wooden　military　hut　that　stood
upon　the　height　above　and　by　no　means　improved　the　beauty　of　the　view。
Our　dogs　seemed　to　enjoy　the　change；　and　raced　up　and　down　the　river's
bed；　delighted　with　the　cold　water　from　the　mountains；　fresh　from　the
highest　springs　of　Troodos　Some　cold　roast　pigeons；　young　and　fat；　and
some　hard…boiled　eggs；　formed　our　luncheon；　together　with　bread　and
cheese。　These　were　quickly　despatched　and　the　carpets　being　spread
beneath　the　trees；　an　hour's　nap　was　good　for　man　while　the　mules　rolled
and　then　dozed　in　luxury　upon　the　turf…like　surface　of　the　glen。　I　was
awakened　by　the　clatter　of　horse's　hoofs；　and　Mr。　Allen；　the　chief
officer　of　the　police　of　Limasol；　appeared；　having　most　kindly　ridden
after　us　with　the　post　just　arrived　from　England。　Unfortunately　not　a
crumb　of　luncheon　remained；　the　dogs　having　swallowed　our　leavings。　We
now　saddled；　and　continued　the　journey　upon　the　firm　surface　of　the　new
road。

When　about　fourteen　miles　from　Limasol　we　entered　upon　a　grand　scene；
which　exhibited　the　commencement　of　the　wine…producing　district。　The
road　was　scarped　from　the　mountain　side　several　hundred　feet　above　the
river；　which　murmured　over　its　rocky　bed　in　the　bottom　of　the　gorge。　We
were　skirting　a　deep　valley；　and　upon　either　side　the　mountains　rose　to
a　height　of　about　1400　feet；　completely　covered　with　vineyards　from　the
base　to　the　summit；　this　long　vale　or　chasm　extended　to　the　Troodos
range；　which　towered　to　upwards　of　6000　feet；　at　a　distance　of　about
fourteen　miles　immediately　in　our　front。　The　vines　were　all　green　with
their　early　foliage；　and　the　surface　of　the　hill…sides　was　most
cheering；　contrasting　with　the　yellow　plain　we　had　left　at　Limasol。

The　good　road　rendered　travelling　delightful　after　the　stony　paths　that
we　had　traversed　for　some　months　in　Cyprus；　and　the　time　passed　so
rapidly　that　we　could　hardly　believe　the　distance　marked　upon　the
nineteenth　milestone；　where　it　was　necessary　to　halt　for　the　arrival　of
our　baggage　animals。　After　waiting　till　nearly　dark　we　found　they　had
quitted　the　new　road　and　preferred　a　short　cut　across　country；　which　had
led　them　to　the　village　of　Menagria　down　in　the　glen　nearly　a　mile　below
us。　We　walked　down　the　steep　hill　and　joined　the　party；　pitched　the
tent；　and　made　ready　for　the　night。

On　the　following　morning；　instead　of　adhering　to　the　new　road；　we
descended　to　the　bottom　of　the　gorge　and　crossed　the　river　near　some
water…mills；　as　the　bridge　was　not　yet　completed　in　the　distant　angle　of
the　glen。　We　now　ascended　an　exceedingly　steep　hill　from　the　river's
bed；　which　severely　tried　our　animals；　until；　after　passing　a　succession
of　cereal　crops　and　vineyards；　we　arrived　at　the　summit；　about　1200　feet
above　the　valley。　From　this　point　the　view　was　magnificent。　The
pine…covered　sides　of　Troodos　appeared　close　before　us；　and　a　valley
stretched　away　to　our　right　richly　clothed　with　trees　below　the　steep
vine…covered　sides　of　the　surrounding　mountains。　Keeping　to　our　left　and
passing　through　several　insignificant　villages；　we　commenced　a　most
dangerous　descent；　with　an　occasional　deep　precipice　on　the　right　of　the
extremely　narrow　path；　until　we　reached　a　contracted　but　verdant　glen。
This　was　a　remarkable　change：　we　had　suddenly　entered　one　of　those
picturesque　vales　for　which　Devonshire　is　famous。　The　vegetation　had
changed　to　that　of　Europe；　as　we　were　now　nearly　3000　feet　above　the
sea。　Apple　and　pear　trees　of　large　size　were　present；　not　in　orchards；
but　growing　independently　as　though　wild。　Dog…roses　of　exquisite　colour
were　in　full　bloom；　and　reminded　us　of　English　hedges。　Beautiful
oak…trees　scattered　upon　the　green　surface　gave　a　park…like　appearance
to　the　scene；　and　numerous　streams　of　clear　water　rippled　though　the
myrtle…covered　banks；　over　the　deep　brown　rocks　of　the　plutonic
formation；　which　had　now　succeeded　to　the　cretaceous　limestone。

It　was　a　curious　geological　division；　limited　by　the　glen：　on　the　left；
the　hills　and　mountains　were　the　usual　white　marls　and　cretaceous
limestone；　while