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cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-µÚ57½Ú

С˵£º cyprus, as i saw it in 1879 ×ÖÊý£º ÿҳ4000×Ö

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jars£»¡¡loss¡¡by¡¡accidents¡¡of¡¡seasons£»¡¡when¡¡the¡¡wine¡¡turns¡¡sour£»¡¡neither¡¡is
any¡¡margin¡¡allowed¡¡for¡¡extraneous¡¡casualties¡£

At¡¡first¡¡sight¡¡the¡¡position¡¡appears¡¡impossible£»¡¡as¡¡a¡¡stranger¡¡would¡¡ask
the¡¡pertinent¡¡question£»¡¡¡¨Why£»¡¡if¡¡vineyards¡¡do¡¡not¡¡pay£»¡¡does¡¡the¡¡owner
continue¡¡the¡¡occupation£¿¡¡Why¡¡does¡¡he¡¡not¡¡substitute¡¡some¡¡other¡¡form¡¡of
cultivation£¿¡¨¡¡The¡¡answer¡¡is¡¡simple¡£¡¡Wherever¡¡the¡¡conditions¡¡of¡¡the
locality¡¡permitted£»¡¡they¡¡have¡¡already¡¡done¡¡so£»¡¡but¡¡vineyards¡¡are
cultivated¡¡where¡¡no¡¡other¡¡crops¡¡could¡¡grow£»¡¡upon¡¡the¡¡sides¡¡of¡¡inclines
so¡¡steep¡¡that¡¡it¡¡is¡¡even¡¡difficult¡¡to¡¡stand£»¡¡and¡¡these¡¡positions£»
although¡¡peculiarly¡¡adapted¡¡for¡¡the¡¡cultivation¡¡of¡¡the¡¡vine¡¡by¡¡reason¡¡of
the¡¡soil£»¡¡would¡¡be¡¡absolutely¡¡worthless¡¡for¡¡other¡¡uses¡£¡¡The¡¡vine
requires¡¡little¡¡water¡¡after¡¡the¡¡young¡¡grapes¡¡have¡¡formed£»¡¡and¡¡the
burning¡¡sun¡­light¡¡which¡¡is¡¡favourable¡¡for¡¡their¡¡development¡¡would
destroy¡¡all¡¡cereals¡¡upon¡¡those¡¡steep¡¡inclinations£»¡¡where¡¡a¡¡casual
shower£»¡¡instead¡¡of¡¡soaking¡¡into¡¡the¡¡earth¡¡and¡¡nourishing¡¡the¡¡crops£»
rushes¡¡quickly¡¡over¡¡the¡¡surface¡¡and¡¡drains¡¡superficially¡¡into¡¡the¡¡deep
vale¡¡below¡£¡¡The¡¡land¡¡of¡¡the¡¡vineyards¡¡is¡¡WINE¡¡land£»¡¡and¡¡adapted
specially¡¡by¡¡the¡¡quality¡¡of¡¡the¡¡soil¡¡and¡¡the¡¡peculiarity¡¡of¡¡climate¡¡for
the¡¡production¡¡of¡¡grapes¡£¡¡In¡¡addition¡¡to¡¡the¡¡impossibility¡¡of¡¡converting
this¡¡land¡¡to¡¡other¡¡purposes¡¡of¡¡cultivation¡¡would¡¡be¡¡the¡¡loss¡¡to¡¡the
proprietor¡¡of¡¡all¡¡his¡¡plant£»¡¡buildings£»¡¡jars£»¡¡&c¡££»¡¡&c¡££»¡¡which¡¡would
become¡¡valueless¡£

This¡¡is£»¡¡as¡¡well¡¡as¡¡I¡¡can¡¡describe¡¡the¡¡grievances£»¡¡the¡¡real¡¡position¡¡of
the¡¡vine¡­grower¡£¡¡Although¡¡since¡¡the¡¡British¡¡occupation¡¡he¡¡has¡¡escaped
the¡¡extra¡¡extortion¡¡of¡¡the¡¡tax¡­farmer£»¡¡he¡¡is¡¡still¡¡the¡¡slave¡¡of¡¡petty
vexations¡¡and¡¡delays£»¡¡which¡¡strangle¡¡him¡¡in¡¡red¡­tape¡¡and¡¡render¡¡his
avocation¡¡a¡¡misery£»¡¡without¡¡profit£»¡¡leaving¡¡only¡¡a¡¡bare¡¡subsistence¡£
What¡¡is¡¡to¡¡be¡¡done£¿

The¡¡first¡¡necessary¡¡change¡¡is¡¡a¡¡system¡¡of¡¡roads£»¡¡only¡¡sufficiently¡¡wide
to¡¡admit¡¡of¡¡the¡¡native¡¡two¡­wheeled¡¡carts£»¡¡with¡¡sidings¡¡every¡¡half¡¡mile
to¡¡enable¡¡them¡¡to¡¡pass¡¡when¡¡meeting¡£¡¡Our¡¡usual¡¡English¡¡mistake¡¡has¡¡been
made£»¡¡in¡¡the¡¡only¡¡two¡¡metalled¡¡highways¡¡that¡¡the¡¡engineers¡¡have
constructed¡¡in¡¡Cyprus£»¡¡¡¨that¡¡everything¡¡must¡¡be¡¡English£»¡¨¡¡thus¡¡we¡¡have
two¡¡costly¡¡roads¡¡of¡¡great¡¡width¡¡from¡¡Larnaca¡¡to¡¡Lefkosia£»¡¡and¡¡from
Limasol¡¡to¡¡Platraes£»¡¡which¡¡are¡¡entirely¡¡unsuitable¡¡to¡¡the¡¡requirements
of¡¡the¡¡country£»¡¡and¡¡as¡¡there¡¡are¡¡no¡¡branch¡¡roads¡¡in¡¡communication£»¡¡the
people¡¡are¡¡hardly¡¡benefited£»¡¡as¡¡they¡¡cannot¡¡reach¡¡the¡¡main¡¡artery¡¡with
wheeled¡¡conveyances¡£¡¡The¡¡military¡¡road¡¡from¡¡Limasol¡¡might¡¡as¡¡well¡¡be¡¡a
railway¡¡without¡¡any¡¡branch¡¡traffic£»¡¡as¡¡it¡¡is¡¡entirely¡¡independent¡¡of
other¡¡roads£º¡¡thus£»¡¡should¡¡carts¡¡be¡¡established¡¡to¡¡convey¡¡the¡¡wine¡¡of¡¡the
district¡¡to¡¡Limasol£»¡¡they¡¡must¡¡be¡¡loaded¡¡by¡¡mules¡¡that¡¡will¡¡bring¡¡the
produce¡¡from¡¡the¡¡roadless¡¡vineyards¡¡in¡¡the¡¡usual¡¡manner¡¡by¡¡goat¡­skins£»
and¡¡the¡¡wine¡¡will¡¡be¡¡tainted¡¡as¡¡before¡£¡¡A¡¡network¡¡of¡¡cheap¡¡useful
cart¡­tracks¡¡can¡¡be¡¡easily¡¡made¡¡throughout¡¡the¡¡wine¡¡districts£»¡¡and¡¡they
MUST¡¡be¡¡made¡¡before¡¡any¡¡improvement¡¡in¡¡the¡¡quality¡¡of¡¡the¡¡wines¡¡can¡¡take
place¡£¡¡The¡¡goat¡­skins¡¡and¡¡the¡¡tarred¡¡jars¡¡must¡¡be¡¡thrown¡¡aside¡¡before
any¡¡change¡¡can¡¡be¡¡expected£º¡¡these¡¡cannot¡¡become¡¡obsolete¡¡until¡¡the
necessary¡¡roads¡¡for¡¡the¡¡conveyance¡¡of¡¡casks¡¡shall¡¡be¡¡completed¡£

If¡¡we¡¡regard¡¡the¡¡present¡¡position¡¡of¡¡the¡¡vine¡­grower£»¡¡we¡¡must¡¡advise
him¡¡thus£º¡¨The¡¡first¡¡necessity¡¡is¡¡to¡¡improve¡¡your¡¡QUALITY£»¡¡and¡¡thus
ensure¡¡a¡¡higher¡¡price¡£¡¡It¡¡costs¡¡no¡¡more¡¡either¡¡in¡¡labour¡¡or¡¡in¡¡plant¡¡to
produce¡¡a¡¡good¡¡wine¡¡than¡¡to¡¡continue¡¡your¡¡present¡¡rude¡¡method¡¡of
production¡£¡¡You¡¡may¡¡double¡¡the¡¡value¡¡of¡¡your¡¡wine¡¡by¡¡an¡¡improved¡¡system£»
without¡¡adding¡¡materially¡¡to¡¡your¡¡expenses£»¡¡you¡¡will¡¡then¡¡have¡¡a¡¡large
margin¡¡for¡¡profit£»¡¡which¡¡will¡¡increase¡¡in¡¡the¡¡same¡¡ratio¡¡as¡¡the¡¡quality
of¡¡your¡¡wine¡£¡¨

The¡¡grower¡¡will¡¡reply£»¡¡¡¨We¡¡must¡¡have¡¡roads¡¡for¡¡carts¡¡if¡¡we¡¡are¡¡to
substitute¡¡barrels¡¡for¡¡goat¡­skins¡£¡¡So¡¡long¡¡as¡¡the¡¡mule¡­paths¡¡are¡¡our
only¡¡routes¡¡we¡¡must¡¡adhere¡¡to¡¡the¡¡skins£»¡¡which¡¡we¡¡acknowledge¡¡are
destructive¡¡to¡¡the¡¡quality¡¡of¡¡the¡¡wine¡¡and¡¡reduce¡¡our¡¡profits¡£¡¡Give¡¡us
roads¡£¡¨

This¡¡is¡¡a¡¡first¡¡necessity£»¡¡and¡¡it¡¡is¡¡simply¡¡ridiculous¡¡to¡¡preach¡¡reforms
of¡¡quality¡¡to¡¡the¡¡cultivators¡¡so¡¡long¡¡as¡¡the¡¡present¡¡savage¡¡country
remains¡¡roadless¡£¡¡It¡¡is¡¡the¡¡first¡¡duty¡¡of¡¡the¡¡government¡¡to¡¡open¡¡the
entire¡¡wine¡¡district¡¡by¡¡a¡¡carefully¡¡devised¡¡system¡¡of¡¡communication£º¡¡for
which¡¡a¡¡highway¡¡rate¡¡could¡¡be¡¡established¡¡for¡¡repairs¡£

If¡¡this¡¡simple¡¡work¡¡shall¡¡be¡¡accomplished¡¡the¡¡goat¡­skins¡¡will¡¡disappear£»
or¡¡should¡¡some¡¡cultivators¡¡cling¡¡to¡¡the¡¡ancient¡¡nuisance£»¡¡a¡¡tax¡¡could¡¡be
levied¡¡specially¡¡upon¡¡wine¡¡skins£»¡¡which¡¡would¡¡ensure¡¡their¡¡immediate
abolition¡£¡¡A¡¡new¡¡trade¡¡would¡¡at¡¡once¡¡be¡¡introduced¡¡to¡¡Cyprus¡¡in¡¡the
importation¡¡of¡¡staves¡¡for¡¡casks£»¡¡and¡¡the¡¡necessary¡¡coopers¡£¡¡The¡¡huge
jars¡¡that¡¡are¡¡only¡¡suggestive¡¡of¡¡the¡¡¡¨Forty¡¡Thieves¡¨¡¡would¡¡be¡¡used¡¡as
water¡­tanks£»¡¡and¡¡the¡¡wine¡¡would¡¡ripen¡¡in¡¡casks¡¡of¡¡several¡¡hundred
gallons£»¡¡and¡¡be¡¡racked¡¡off¡¡by¡¡taps¡¡at¡¡successive¡¡intervals¡¡when¡¡clear¡£
The¡¡first¡¡deposit¡¡of¡¡tannin¡¡and¡¡fixed¡¡albumen¡¡would¡¡remain¡¡at¡¡the¡¡bottom
of¡¡No¡£¡¡1¡¡vat£»¡¡the¡¡second¡¡deposit¡¡after¡¡racking¡¡in¡¡No¡£¡¡2£»¡¡and¡¡the¡¡wine
which¡¡is¡¡now¡¡an¡¡astringent£»¡¡cloudy£»¡¡and¡¡muddy¡¡mixture¡¡of¡¡impurities£»
would¡¡leave¡¡the¡¡vine¡­grower's¡¡store¡¡bright£»¡¡and¡¡fit¡¡for¡¡the¡¡merchant's
vats¡¡in¡¡Limasol£»¡¡and¡¡command¡¡a¡¡more¡¡than¡¡double¡¡price¡£¡¡This¡¡is¡¡a¡¡matter
of¡¡certainty¡¡and¡¡not¡¡conjecture¡£¡¡Should¡¡the¡¡black¡¡wines¡¡be¡¡carefully
manufactured£»¡¡they¡¡will¡¡be¡¡extensively¡¡used¡¡for¡¡mixing¡¡with¡¡thin¡¡French
wines£»¡¡as¡¡they¡¡generally¡¡possess¡¡strength¡¡and¡¡body¡¡in¡¡large¡¡proportion
to¡¡their¡¡price¡£

It¡¡will¡¡be¡¡universally¡¡agreed¡¡that¡¡the¡¡making¡¡of¡¡the¡¡roads¡¡is¡¡the¡¡first
necessity£»¡¡but¡¡if¡¡the¡¡island¡¡is¡¡in¡¡such¡¡financial¡¡misery¡¡that¡¡so
important¡¡a¡¡step¡¡must¡¡be¡¡deferred£»¡¡the¡¡grievances¡¡of¡¡the¡¡vine¡­growers
should¡¡be¡¡immediately¡¡considered¡£¡¡The¡¡first¡¡question¡¡to¡¡the¡¡cultivator
would¡¡be£»¡¡¡¨What¡¡reforms¡¡do¡¡you¡¡yourself¡¡suggest£¿¡¨¡¡He¡¡replies£»¡¡¡¨Fix¡¡an
annual¡¡rate¡¡per¡¡donum£»¡¡and¡¡leave¡¡us¡¡free¡¡to¡¡send¡¡our¡¡wine¡¡wherever¡¡we
choose£»¡¡without¡¡the¡¡abominable¡¡vexations¡¡and¡¡delays¡¡caused¡¡by¡¡the
present¡¡arbitrary¡¡system£»¡¡let¡¡the¡¡tax¡¡per¡¡donum¡¡include¡¡every¡¡charge¡¡for
which¡¡we¡¡shall¡¡be¡¡liable£º¡¡we¡¡shall¡¡then¡¡know¡¡at¡¡once¡¡the¡¡limit¡¡of¡¡our
liability¡£¡¨¡¡I¡¡cannot¡¡see¡¡any¡¡practical¡¡difficulty¡¡in¡¡such¡¡an
arrangement£»¡¡a¡¡highway¡¡rate¡¡might¡¡be¡¡an¡¡extra¡¡when¡¡the¡¡roads¡¡should¡¡be
completed¡£¡¡A¡¡small¡¡export¡¡duty¡¡at¡¡the¡¡various¡¡ports¡¡would¡¡become¡¡a
material¡¡source¡¡of¡¡increase¡¡to¡¡the¡¡revenue¡¡when¡¡the¡¡wine¡¡trade¡¡became
invigorated¡¡and¡¡extended¡¡by¡¡government¡¡encouragement£»¡¡and¡¡although¡¡such
a¡¡duty¡¡would¡¡indirectly¡¡affect¡¡the¡¡grower¡¡in¡¡the¡¡price¡¡which¡¡the
merchant¡¡would¡¡pay¡¡for¡¡the¡¡new¡¡wine£»¡¡it¡¡would¡¡be¡¡a¡¡collateral¡¡tax¡¡that
would¡¡not¡¡be¡¡felt¡¡individually¡£

Unless¡¡the¡¡present¡¡oppressive¡¡system¡¡shall¡¡be¡¡abolished¡¡the¡¡wine¡¡trade
of¡¡Cyprus¡¡will¡¡languish£»¡¡and¡¡an¡¡industry¡¡that¡¡may¡¡be¡¡profitably¡¡extended
to¡¡an¡¡important¡¡degree¡¡will¡¡share¡¡the¡¡fate¡¡of¡¡a¡¡commercial¡¡and
agricultural¡¡depression¡¡which¡¡has¡¡resulted¡¡from¡¡the¡¡vague¡¡conditions¡¡of
the¡¡British¡¡occupation£»¡¡and¡¡from¡¡which¡¡no¡¡recovery¡¡can¡¡be¡¡expected¡¡until
confidence¡¡in¡¡the¡¡future¡¡prospects¡¡of¡¡the¡¡island¡¡shall¡¡be¡¡established¡£



CHAPTER¡¡XI¡£

FROM¡¡LIMASOL¡¡TO¡¡THE¡¡MOUNTAINS¡£

The¡¡barley¡¡harvest¡¡was¡¡in¡¡active¡¡operation£»¡¡and¡¡the¡¡fields¡¡around¡¡our
camp¡¡were¡¡crowded¡¡with¡¡men£»¡¡women£»¡¡and¡¡children£»¡¡all¡¡hard¡¡at¡¡work£»¡¡but
producing¡¡small¡¡results¡¡compared¡¡with¡¡an¡¡equal¡¡expenditure¡¡of¡¡European
labour¡£¡¡Their¡¡sickles¡¡were¡¡large¡¡and¡¡good£»¡¡but¡¡a¡¡great¡¡proportion¡¡of¡¡the
crops¡¡were¡¡either¡¡broken¡¡off¡¡by¡¡hand¡¡or¡¡were¡¡dragged¡¡out¡¡by¡¡the¡¡roots£»
and¡¡the¡¡earth¡¡that¡¡adhered¡¡was¡¡carelessly¡¡dusted¡¡off¡¡by¡¡a¡¡blow¡¡against
the¡¡reaper's¡¡boots¡£¡¡In¡¡this¡¡dry¡¡climate¡¡there¡¡was¡¡no¡¡necessity¡¡for
piling¡¡the¡¡sheaves£»¡¡but¡¡the¡¡small¡¡bundles¡¡were¡¡at¡¡once¡¡laden¡¡upon
donkeys¡¡and¡¡also¡¡conveyed¡¡in¡¡the¡¡two¡­wheeled¡¡carts¡¡to¡¡the¡¡threshing¡­
ground£»¡¡upon¡¡which¡¡it¡¡would¡¡remain¡¡until¡¡valued¡¡for¡¡taxation¡¡by¡¡the
government¡¡official¡£¡¡In¡¡the¡¡dry¡¡atmosphere¡¡of¡¡Cyprus£»¡¡Syria£»¡¡Egypt£»¡¡&c¡££»
the¡¡straw¡¡breaks¡¡easily£»¡¡and¡¡beneath¡¡the¡¡sharp¡¡flints¡¡of¡¡the¡¡ancient
threshing¡­harrow¡¡in¡¡present¡¡use¡¡is¡¡quickly¡¡reduced¡¡to¡¡the¡¡coarse¡¡chaff
known¡¡as¡¡¡¨tibbin£»¡¨¡¡which¡¡forms¡¡the¡¡staple¡¡article¡¡of¡¡food¡¡for¡¡horses¡¡and
all¡¡cattle¡£¡¡Taking¡¡advantage¡¡of¡¡the¡¡numbers¡¡of¡¡people¡¡congregated¡¡in¡¡the
fields£»¡¡some¡¡itinerant¡¡gipsies¡¡with¡¡a¡¡monkey¡¡and¡¡performing¡¡bears¡¡were
camped¡¡beneath¡¡the¡¡caroub¡­trees£»¡¡about¡¡half¡¡a¡¡mile¡¡from¡¡our¡¡position¡£
The¡¡bears¡¡were¡¡the¡¡Syrian¡¡variety¡£¡¡Throughout¡¡Cyprus¡¡the¡¡gipsies¡¡are
known¡¡as¡¡tinners¡¡of¡¡pots¡¡and¡¡makers¡¡of¡¡wooden¡¡spoons£»¡¡which¡¡seems¡¡to¡¡be
the¡¡normal¡¡occupation¡¡of¡¡their¡¡tribe¡¡throughout¡¡the¡¡world£»¡¡they¡¡have
also¡¡a¡¡character¡¡for¡¡a¡¡peculiar¡¡attachment¡¡to¡¡fowls¡¡and¡¡any¡¡other¡¡small
matters¡¡that¡¡belong¡¡to¡¡private¡¡individuals¡¡which¡¡may¡¡be¡¡met¡¡with¡¡during
their¡¡wanderings¡£

The¡¡beans¡¡of¡¡the¡¡caroub¡­trees¡¡were¡¡already¡¡large£»¡¡and¡¡promised¡¡a¡¡good
crop¡¡in¡¡spite¡¡of¡¡the¡¡dry¡¡weather¡£¡¡The¡¡roots¡¡of¡¡these¡¡evergreens
penetrate¡¡to¡¡a¡¡great¡¡depth£»¡¡and¡¡obtain¡¡nourishment¡¡from¡¡beneath¡¡when¡¡the
surface¡¡soil¡¡is¡¡perished¡¡by¡¡drought¡£¡¡I¡¡have¡¡never¡¡seen¡¡a¡¡caroub
overthrown¡¡by¡¡the¡¡wind£»¡¡although¡¡the¡¡extremely¡¡large¡¡head¡¡that¡¡is¡¡at¡¡all
seasons¡¡covered¡¡with¡¡leaves¡¡must¡¡offer¡¡a¡¡great¡¡resistance¡£¡¡The¡¡fruit¡¡of
this¡¡tree¡¡£¨Ceratonia¡¡siliqua£©¡¡is¡¡already¡¡an¡¡important¡¡export¡¡from
Cyprus£»¡¡and¡¡if¡¡the¡¡cultivati

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