cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第55节

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in　the　trade　at　Limasol。　The　old　commanderia　was　sufficiently　sweet　to
occasion　a　roughness　in　the　throat；　and　each　quality　was　far　too
luscious　for　English　taste；　but　might　have　been　agreeable　to　sip　like
Tokay；　by　soaking　a　sponge　biscuit。　The　utterly　rude　method　of　producing
native　wines；　which　can　scarcely　be　dignified　by　the　term　〃manufacture；〃
is　a　sufficient　explanation　of　their　inferior　quality；　but　at　the　same
time　it　is　a　proof　of　the　great　wine…producing　power　of　Cyprus；　where；
in　spite　of　ignorance　and　neglect；　an　extensive　commerce　has　been
established；　which　adds　materially　to　the　revenue　of　the　island。　If
these　badly…made　wines　have　founded　an　important　trade；　there　is　every
reason　to　expect　a　corresponding　extension　when　scientific　principles
shall　have　resulted　in　a　superior　quality。

The　black　wines　receive　even　less　care　than　the　commanderia；　the　grapes
are　trodden；　and　are　thrown　into　receptacles　to　ferment；　together　with
the　skins　and　stalks。　This　bruised　mass；　after　lying　a　certain　time
exposed　to　fermentation；　is　pressed；　and　the　muddy　juice　is　stowed　in
the　large　tarred　jars　to　ripen　for　a　few　months；　which；　according　to
Cyprian　taste；　are　sufficient　to　prepare　it　for　consumption。　The　stalks
and　black　skins；　being　extremely　rich　in　tannin；　have　imparted　to　the
wine　a　powerful　astringency　and　the　exceedingly　dark　colour　which　so
disagreeably　distinguish　this　common　quality。　The　growers　imagine　that
the　extra　amount　of　tannin　is　preservative；　without　which；　their　wine
might　deteriorate　during　the　rough　treatment　to　which　it　is　subjected　by
transport　and　exposure；　and　to　their　specially…educated　palates　this
astringency　is　agreeable；　combined　with　the　strong　flavour　of　tar；　which
completely　excludes　it　from　the　consumption　of　Englishmen。　Neither　the
commanderia　nor　any　other　quality　of　wine　is　subjected　to　the　process　of
〃fining；〃　when　issued　from　the　stores　of　the　merchant；　therefore；　a
really　bright　clear　wine　is　never　met　with。　The　black　wines　could　be
considerably　improved　by　allowing　them　to　settle　in　large　vats；　and　by　a
series　of　rackings　into　other　vessels；　as　they　become　clearer　by
depositing　their　impurities。　I　have　tried　this　experiment　upon　a　small
scale　with　success；　and　there　can　be　no　doubt　that　the　simple　manual
labour　of　drawing　off　the　clear　wine　to　enable　it　to　fine　itself　by
precipitating　the　albuminous　matter　that　has　been　fixed　by　the
superabundant　tannin；　would　render　the　〃mavro；〃　or　black　wine；
drinkable；　always　excepting　the　presence　of　tar；　which　can　at　once　be
avoided　by　the　substitution　of　casks　for　the　earthen　jars　and
goat…skins。

At　the　expiration　of　the　vintage　the　vines　remain　uncared…for　throughout
the　autumn　and　winter；　cattle　and　goats　invade　them　ad　libitum　so　long
as　their　leaves　are　attractive；　and　no　operation　is　performed　until　the
month　of　March。　At　this　time　they　are　pruned　close　to　the　stocks；　which
are　generally　about　one　foot　above　the　ground；　and　two　eyes　are　supposed
to　be　left　upon　each　spur。　But　I　have　watched　the　cultivators　during　the
process；　and　observed　the　usual　neglect；　sometimes　the　spurs　were　shaved
off　completely；　without　a　bud　for　next　year's　shoot；　and　at　others　too
many　buds　were　left；　that　would　weaken　and　disfigure　the　parent　stem。
The　instrument　for　pruning　was　similar　to　a　very　small　reaping…hook；
with　a　handle　about　a　foot　in　length；　and　the　delicate　operation　was
conducted　with　a　rapidity　that　rendered　the　necessary　care　impossible。
After　the　clearing　of　the　refuse　the　land　is　carefully　ploughed　and
cleaned。

I　visited　some　large　wine…stores　in　Larnaca；　where　casks　of　about　300
gallons　each　were　arranged　in　long　parallel　rows；　all　filled　with
commanderia　of　various　ages　and　corresponding　prices。

Having　now　traced　the　liquor　from　the　original　vineyard　into　the
merchant's　store；　it　will　be　interesting　to　examine　the　network　of
obstructions　and　extortions　to　which　the　unfortunate　wine…grower　is
exposed　before　he　can　deliver　his　produce　into　the　hands　of　the
merchant；　either　at　Limasol　or　elsewhere。

Consul　Riddell　reported　officially　in　1875　as　follows：

　　　　〃The　wine　trade　of　Cyprus　was　last　year
　　　　exceptionally　large；　owing　to　the　abundant　produce　of
　　　　the　vineyards　in　1874。　The　outcome　of　grapes　and
　　　　wines　in　1875　did　not　exceed　an　ordinary　average；
　　　　and　growers　still　complain　loudly　that　the　imposts
　　　　upon　wines；　reckoning　from　the　grape　to　the　vat；　are
　　　　so　heavyamounting　to　about　35　or　40　per　cent。and
　　　　their　imposition　and　collection　so　very　arbitrary　and
　　　　unequal；　that　many　vineyards　are　being　abandoned。

　　　　〃The　government；　it　is　said；　have　under　consideration
　　　　the　anomalous　state　of　the　wine　trade　in　Cyprus；
　　　　with　a　view　to　relieve　and　redress　the　many　grievances
　　　　of　which　consumers　complain；　and　in　the　meanwhile
　　　　the　collection　of　the　imposts　is　suspended。　Should
　　　　the　result　prove　to　be　the　elaboration　of　a　fair；
　　　　reasonable；　and　consistent　scale　of　duties；　the　revival
　　　　of　the　wine　trade　may　be　reasonably　looked　forward
　　　　to；　and　under　sound　regulations　and　intelligent
　　　　fostering　the　trade　would　undoubtedly　become　a　large
　　　　and　profitable　one　to　this　island。〃

　　　　In　1876；　the　year　following　the　promised　reform；
　　　　Consul　Pierides　reports：

　　　　〃The　quantity　of　all　sorts　of　wine　produced　was
　　　　much　below　that　of　1875。　The　principal　shipments
　　　　were　made　to　Trieste　and　Venice。　The　collection　of
　　　　the　imposts；　which　was　for　a　short　time　suspended；　has
　　　　recommenced；　and　the　manner　in　which　it　is　conducted
　　　　is　still　arbitrary　and　vexatious；　while　remonstrances
　　　　have　hitherto　been　of　no　avail。　It　is　time　for　the
　　　　government　to　put　an　end　to　these　grievances；　which
　　　　indeed　threaten　to　destroy　one　of　the　best　resources
　　　　of　the　island。〃

In　1877　Consul　Watkins　reports：

　　　　〃The　manufacture　of　wine　here　is　greatly　on　the
　　　　decrease；　for；　owing　to　all　sorts　of　unreasonable
　　　　regulations；　and　to　the　vexatious　mode　of　their
　　　　application；　cultivators　now　prefer　making　their　grapes
　　　　into　raisins。〃

Here　we　have　consecutive　official　reports　from　three　different　British
consuls　during　1875…1877。　The　British　occupation　took　place　in　1878I
am　writing　in　1879and　although　the　grievances　of　the　Cyprian
wine…growers　were　sufficiently　aggravated　to　call　for　the　vigorous
reports　and　protests　of　three　different　British　consuls　during　the
Turkish　administration；　no　amelioration　of　their　condition　has　been
effected　during　twelve　months　of　British　rule。

Captain　Savile；　in　his　excellent　digest　of　all　that　concerns　this
island；　writes：

　　　　〃The　grievances　connected　with　the　culture　of　the
　　　　vines　and　the　manufacture　of　wine　which　are　alluded
　　　　to　in　the　consular　reports；　existed　as　long　ago　as　1863；
　　　　and　were　then　mentioned　by　Consul　White；　who　says
　　　　that　the　peasants　were　even　then　beginning　to　find　it
　　　　more　profitable　to　sell　their　grapes；　or　to　make　them
　　　　into　raisins；　rather　than；　by　turning　them　into　wine；　to
　　　　subject　themselves　to　the　duty　lately　imposed　over　and
　　　　above　the　tithe　and　export　duties；　which　were　collected
　　　　in　a　very　harassing　manner。　The　growers　have　had
　　　　to　pay；　under　the　tax　called　‘dimes；'　an　eighth　part　of
　　　　the　produce　of　grapes　to　the　treasury；　but　this　could
　　　　not　be　taken　in　kind；　so　a　money　value　was　fixed　yearly
　　　　by　the　local　medjlis；　or　fixed　tribunal；　but　as　the　assessment
　　　　was　based　on　the　market…price　at　the　chief　town
　　　　of　the　district；　instead　of　the　value　at　the　place　of
　　　　growth；　this　tax；　instead　of　being　about　12。5　per　cent。；
　　　　in　reality　amounted　to　over　20　per　cent。　Then　again
　　　　when　the　wine　was　made；　an　excise　duty　of　10　per
　　　　cent。　was　levied；　and　on　export；　a　tax　of　8　per　cent。
　　　　had　to　be　paid。　The　natural　consequence　of　these
　　　　excessive　impositions　has　been　the　diminution　of　a
　　　　culture　for　which　the　island　is　particularly　adapted。
　　　　Consul　Lang　suggests　that　it　might　be　wise　to　free　this
　　　　production　from　all　tax；　except　a　proper　export　duty。〃

How　easy　it　is　to　be　generous　at　the　expense　of　others！here　are
（including　Consuls　White　and　Lang）　no　less　than　five　British　consuls　who
have　been　protesting　against　this　instance　of　oppression　and　injustice
since　the　year　1862；　and　it　would　naturally　have　been　expected　that　one
of　our　first　acts　upon　assuming　the　government　of　Cyprus　would　have　been
to　abolish　an　abuse　that　had　excited　the　remonstrances　of　our　own
representatives。　The　fact　is　that　we　were　reduced　to　a　financial　ebb　of
the　gravest　character　by　the　absorption　at　Constantinople　of　an　unfair
proportion　of　the　revenue；　and　our　government　was　not　in　a　position　to
risk　a　reduction　of　income　by　such　an　important　change　in　the　system　of
taxation。　The　Cypriotes　have　nevertheless　derived　a　collateral　advantage
from　the　change　of　rulers；　as　the　extreme　grievances　to　which　the
consular　reports　allude　were　aggravated　by　the　farmers　of　taxes；　who　no
longer　exist。　These　people　were　extortioners　of　the　worst　description；
and　the　bribes　and　extra　payments　extracted　from　the　vine…growers　are
represented　in　the　gross　sum　mentioned