cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第41节

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for　this　neglect；　〃The　people　have　no　money！〃

We　had　ridden　fast；　and　were　far　ahead　of　the　baggage　animals；　we
accordingly　halted　to　lunch　beneath　a　shady　caroub…tree　near　the　edge　of
the　ravine；　about　fifty　feet　below。　A　French　game…bag；　with　net　and
numerous　pockets；　always　contained　our　meals；　which　consisted　of　a　cold
fowl；　some　eggs　boiled　hard；　and　a　loaf　of　native　brown　bread　or
biscuits。　This　was　luncheon　and　breakfast；　as　we　never　indulged　in　more
than　two　meals　a　day；　merely　taking　a　cup　of　cafe　au　lait；　or　cocoa；　in
the　early　morning；　and　our　lunch　or　breakfast　at　any　hour　that
travelling　made　convenient。　This　depended　upon　the　attraction　of　some
pretty　spot　or　wide…spreading　tree　that　suggested　a　halt。

We　now　remounted　and　rode　to　Lapithus；　a　mile　and　a　half　distant；　and；
avoiding　the　town；　selected　a　camping…place　on　the　flat　ground　within
300　yards　of　the　sea。

There　was　little　difference　between　Lapithus　and　Karava。　A　succession　of
mountain　streams　nourished　the　higher　grounds；　and　having　fertilised　the
gardens　and　plots　of　cereals；　were　subsequently　led　into　the　fields
below。

Lapithus　has　been　celebrated　from　an　ancient　date　in　like　manner　with
Kythrea；　owing　to　the　unfailing　supply　of　water　from　its
mountain…springs；　and；　under　the　Ptolemies；　B。C。　295；　it　became　one　of
the　four　provinces　into　which　Cyprus　was　divided。　Lapithus；　north；
Amathus；　south；　Salamis；　east；　Paphos　（now　Baffo）；　west。

On　the　following　morning　our　muleteer　Iiani；　having　indulged　in
cigarettes　and　sleep；　was　not　ready　to　start　at　the　proper　hour；　neither
were　the　animals　forth…coming。　We　accordingly　started　on　foot　and
threaded　our　way　through　paved　lanes；　which　twisted　and　turned　in
various　directions　according　to　the　positions　of　the　houses　and
innumerable　gardens。　The　people　were　very　civil；　and　directed　us　in　the
right　direction；　although　evidently　surprised　at　our　journeying　on　foot；
which　is　most　unusual　even　among　the　poorer　classes。　We　walked　for　more
than　a　mile　through　the　town：　the　air　was　fresh　and　enjoyable；　the
thermometer　was　53　degrees　at　7　A。M。　Streams　of　clear　water　gushed
through　the　lanes　in　many　places；　which　had　created　the　flourishing
aspect　around。　With　such　a　picture　of　prosperity　before　us；　due　entirely
to　the　presence　of　never…failing　streams；　it　seemed　incredible　that　the
great　central　district　of　Messaria　should　be　left　to　the　chance　of
seasons　when　the　means　of　artificial　irrigation　lie　close　beneath　the
surface。

Upon　quitting　Lapithus　the　country　on　the　west　was　almost　devoid　of
trees；　and　we　walked　for　four　miles　and　a　half　before　we　could　procure　a
shade。　At　this　distance　we　halted　to　await　the　mules　beneath　a　clump　of
three　caroub…trees　close　to　the　road　side。　Beneath　this　group　were
several　masses　of　rock　which　appeared　to　have　rolled　at　some　remote
period　from　the　mountain　side；　as　blocks　of　all　sizes　strewed　the　ground
in　every　direction。　I　was　at　once　struck　with　a　beautiful　block　of　dark
green　marble；　and　upon　examining　the　neighbourhood　I　discovered　many
pieces　of　the　same　material；　all　of　which　had　evidently　fallen　from　the
mountain's　side；　thus　proving　that　the　parent　mass　would　be　found　in
situ　were　the　high　cliffs　investigated。　The　mules　arrived；　and　I
directed　attention　of　Iiani　to　the　fact；　in　order　that　I　might　procure　a
specimen　by　sending　him　to　the　spot　upon　a　future　occasion。　We　now
entered　upon　groves　of　caroub…trees；　and　the　ground　was　covered　with
blocks　of　limestone　and　of　marbles。　As　we　proceeded　the　shore　became
exceedingly　narrow；　as　the　base　of　the　steep　mountain　sprang　from　within
a　short　distance　of　the　sea。　The　quantity　and　varieties　of　marbles
increased；　the　dark　green　was　present　in　large　blocks；　and　several
masses　of　bright　rose…colour　suggested　that　rare　and　valuable　qualities
might　be　profitably　worked　and　exported；　as　great　facilities　existed　in
the　presence　of　snug　little　coves　within　only　a　few　yards；　where　in　the
summer　months　native　vessels　of　twenty　or　thirty　tons　might　anchor　in
security。

The　country　now　became　exceedingly　wild　and　rugged。　The　sea　was　in　many
places　exactly　below　us　as　we　skirted　the　cliffs　and　occasionally
crossed　the　beaches　of　narrow　coves。　The　high　mountain　upon　our
immediate　left　was　the　western　terminus　of　the　Carpas　range；　and
exhibited　peculiar　geological　features；　eruptive　rocks　having　burst　in
some　places　through　the　limestone　and　created　great　disturbance。　The
route　was　exceedingly　interesting　and　beautiful；　rocks　of　every　shade　of
colour　were　mingled　with　bright　green　foliage；　the　sea　was　an　emerald
green　in　the　shallow　coves；　and　dark　blue　within　a　few　hundred　paces　of
the　shore；　while　a　brisk　breeze　curled　the　waves　and　tipped　their　crests
with　a　glistening　white。　The　path　at　length　turned　to　the　left　and　led
through　a　gap　that　rounded　the　mountain　base；　and　formed　the　extreme　end
of　the　Jurassic　limestone；　which　only　exists　in　Cyprus　in　the　peculiar
wall…like　Carpasian　range　running　from　west　to　east　upon　the　northern
coast。

We　crossed　a　stream　of　water　at　the　bottom　of　the　gorge　which　winds
through　the　narrow　glen　that　terminates　the　range；　and　ascending　upon
the　opposite　side；　we　at　once　entered　upon　steep　slopes　composed　of
marls　interspersed　with　an　exceedingly　bright　rose…coloured　marble　in
veins　of　about　two　feet　thickness。　This　would　probably　develop
considerable　blocks　if　quarried　to　a　greater　depth。

Continuing　for　about　two　miles　along　the　glen；　which　was　cultivated　with
barley　in　all　available　localities；　we　several　times　crossed　the　stream
in　its　winding　course；　and　my　dogs　hunted　the　steep　myrtle…covered　banks
in　expectation　of　game；　but　nothing　moved；　and　the　croaking　of　numerous
frogs　was　the　only　sign　of　life。　The　glen　now　widened　to　a　valley　about
a　mile　and　three…quarters　in　diameter；　surrounded　upon　all　sides　by
heights；　and　we　commenced　one　of　the　steepest　ascents　in　Cyprus；　up　the
face　of　the　slope　about　1000　feet　above　the　bottom。　The　zigzags　were
upon　a　surface　of　white　marl；　which　during　wet　weather　would　become　as
slippery　as　soap；　and　be　impassable　for　loaded　animals。　Many　times　our
mules　were　forced　to　halt　and　rest；　but　they　were　good　and　sure…footed
beasts；　that　could　always　be　depended　upon。

At　length　we　gained　the　summit；　which　was　a　total　change　of　scene。
Instead　of　descending　upon　the　other　side；　as　I　had　expected；　we　had
arrived　at　a　plateau　eight　or　nine　miles　in　length　from　north　to　south；
and　an　invisible　distance　from　east　to　west。　The　soil　was　a　rich　reddish
chocolate；　forming　a　grateful　contrast　to　the　glaring　white　marls　that
we　had　just　quitted；　and　which　composed　the　steep　hills　that　surrounded
the　lower　basin。　A　growth　of　young　pines　and　other　evergreen　shrubs
ornamented　the　surface；　and　at　about　a　quarter　of　a　mile　from　the　summit
of　the　pass　by　which　we　had　arrived　we　halted　at　a　well　of　pure　water
among　a　small　grove　of　olive…trees。　Although　we　were　at　least　1000　feet
above　the　valley；　the　water　was　only　ten　feet　from　the　coping…stone　by
measurement。　There　could　be　little　doubt　that　the　perennial　stream　in
the　deep　glen　was　the　result　of　the　drainage　of　this　extensive
table…land；　corresponding　with　similar　heights　upon　the　other　side。

Having　breakfasted　by　the　well　of　deliciously　cold　water；　we　remounted；
and　continued　our　route　along　the　extensive　table…land。　This　was
cultivated　in　many　places；　but　as　we　advanced　for　two　or　three　miles　the
country　became　exceedingly　wild；　and　we　entered　a　wood　of　Pinus
maritima；　composed　of　young　trees　of　several　years'　growth；　and　older
stems　that　had　been　mutilated　in　the　disgraceful　manner　that
characterises　all　Cyprian　forests。　There　was　not　one　perfect　tree　above
eight　years'　growth；　but　every　stem　had　been　cut　off　about　six　feet　from
the　top　for　the　sake　of　the　straight　pole。　Trees　of　fifteen　years　or
more　had　been　mercilessly　hacked　for　the　small　amount　of　turpentine　that
such　trunks　would　produce；　and　the　bark　had　been　ripped　off　for　tanning。
Great　quantities　of　mastic　bushes　covered　the　surface　between　the　pines；
and　even　these　exhibited　the　continual　attacks　of　the　woodcutter's
grubbing…axe；　which　had　torn　up　the　roots；　in　addition　to　the　stems；　for
the　requirements　of　the　lime…burner。　The　red　soil　is　so　propitious　to
the　growth　of　pines　that；　in　spite　of　the　unremitting　destruction；　the
ground　was　covered　with　young　plants；　self…sown　from　the　fallen　cones。
If　these　young　forests　were　protected　for　twelve　or　fourteen　years；　the
surface　would　again　be　restored　to　the　original　woodland　that　once
ornamented　this　portion　of　the　island。　Under　the　present　conditions　of
Cyprus　all　wholesome　laws　and　enactments　are　practically　ridiculed　by
the　inhabitants；　as　there　are　no　foresters　or　keepers　to　enforce　the
orders　of　the　government。　A　governor　may　sit　upon　the　top　of　Olympus　and
issue　wise　decrees　like　Jupiter；　but　unfortunately　he　does　not　possess
the　thunderbolts；　as　the　country　is　so　poor　that　it　cannot　afford　to　pay
the　salaries　necessary　for　the　support　of　foresters　and　the　officers
required　for　this　special　department。　I　myself　met　droves　of　donkeys　and
mules　loaded　with　wood　and　accompanied　by　their　owne