cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第40节

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substance　in　the　immediate　neighbourhood　of　Kyrenia。

There　was　a　peculiarity　in　the　walls　and　towers　of　the　fortress　of　St。
Hilarion：　the　stones　were　of　such　small　dimensions　that　few　exceeded
forty　or　fifty　pounds　in　weight；　except　those　which　formed　the　principal
halls　or　other　buildings　upon　the　secure　plateaux　within　the　outer
works。　The　masons　had　apparently　depended　upon　the　extreme　tenacity　and
hardness　of　their　cement；　which　bound　the　mass　into　a　solid　block。　Upon
a　close　examination　I　discovered　the　reason。　As　the　towers　and　many　of
the　walls　were　built　upon　the　extreme　edge　of　various　precipices；　it
would　have　been　impossible　to　have　erected　a　scaffolding　on　the　outside；
in　the　absence　of　which　it　would　have　been　difficult　to　have　raised
heavy　weights；　the　builders　were　therefore　obliged　to　limit　the　size　of
stones　to　the　power　of　individuals；　who　would　be　obliged　to　supply　the
material　by　the　simple　handing　of　single　stones　as　the　work　proceeded。
By　this　crude　system　the　mason　would　stand　upon　his　own　wall　and　receive
the　stones　as　his　work　grew　in　height。

The　origin　and　date　of　this　interesting　fortress　are　uncertain；　but　it
is　known　that；　like　other　eagle…nests　upon　this　craggy　range；　it　formed
a　place　of　refuge　to　some　of　the　Latin　kings　of　Cyprus。　As　in　ancient
times　the　port　of　Kyrenia　had　been　an　object　of　frequent　attacks；　the
lofty　fortresses　of　St。　Hilarion　and　Buffavento　offered　immediate
asylums　in　the　event　of　a　retreat　from　the　invaded　harbour。　In　close
proximity　to　the　sea　these　elevated　posts　commanded　an　extended　view；
and　the　approach　of　an　enemy　could　be　discerned　at　a　distance　that　would
afford　ample　warning　for　preparing　a　defence。　Both　St。　Hilarion　and
other　mountain　strongholds　upon　this　range　were　dismantled　by　the
Venetian　Admiral　Prioli　about　A。D。　1490；　shortly　after　the　annexation　of
the　island　by　Venice。

The　return　ride　down　the　mountain　side　was；　if　possible；　more　beautiful
than　the　ascent；　as　the　lights　and　shadows　were　rendered　acute　by　dark
but　quickly　passing　clouds；　occasional　light　mists　curled　round　the
highest　peaks　like　veils　of　gauze　and　then　dissolved　in　the　clear　air。
These　atmospherical　changes　intensified　the　colouring　and　brought　out
the　varying　tints　of　grey　and　purple　rocks　into　a　strange　prominence；
while　every　wild　flower　appeared　to　thrust　itself　suddenly　into
observation：　the　purple　cistus　seemed　magnified　to　the　size　of　roses；
and　a　bright　gleam　of　gold　from　the　masses　of　prickly　bloom　now　in
fullest　blaze　mingled　with　the　general　green　surface　of　mastic　and
arbutus。　As　we　neared　the　base　of　the　mountains　the　dark　green　rounded
tops　of　a　forest　of　caroub…trees　were　occasionally　broken　by　the　white
bloom　of　sweet…scented　hawthorns；　and　to　the　delight　of　my　ear；　the
first　notes　of　the　cuckoo　that　I　had　heard　in　Cyprus　recalled　the　spring
of　England！　It　is　a　curious　arrangement　of　our　nervous　system；　that　a
sound　so　simple　in　itself　should　invest　the　scene　with　a　tenfold
pleasure；　and　should　conjure　up　uncalled…for　recollections　of　places；
friends；　and　a　life　of　years　long　past：　but　so　it　was；　and　for　the
moment　I　longed　to　be　at　home。　。　。　。

The　mules　and　camels　were　ready　to　start　on　the　10th　April。　I　had
engaged　a　well…known　fine…looking　muleteer　named　Katarjii　Iiani；　who　had
contracted；　for　twenty…nine　shillings　a　day；　to　supply　the　riding　mules
and　baggage　animals　sufficient　for　our　party　from　Kyrenia　to　any　portion
of　the　island　I　might　wish　to　visit。　My　plan　was　arranged；　to　include　a
circuit　of　the　north　and　west　to　Baffo；　thence　to　Limasol；　by　which　time
the　hot　weather　would　be　drawing　near；　and　we　should　seek　a　settlement
as　near　the　clouds　as　possible　upon　Troodos；　the　snow　was　still　deep
upon　the　northern　summit　of　this　mountain；　which　formed　the　prominent
object　in　the　range。

Our　new　muleteer　Iiani　was　about　six　feet　two　inches　high；　and　not　being
sufficiently　tall；　he　added　nearly　three　inches　more　by　enormous　heels
to　a　pair　of　well…fitting　high　boots；　these；　fastened　below　the　knee；
just　showed　sufficient　clean　grey　stocking　to　prove　that　he　possessed
such　hose；　which　are　luxuries　seldom　indulged　in　by　the　peasantry。　The
boots　were　carefully　blackened　and　polished；　and　were　armed　with　long
spurs。　His　trousers　were　the　usual　roomy　pattern；　containing　sufficient
stuff　to　clothe　a　small　family　of　English　children；　above　these
dark…blue　bags　he　wore　a　kind　of　Jersey　frock　of　thick　silk　fitting
tight　to　his　figure；　the　junction　between　this　purple…striped　garment
and　his　waistband　was　concealed　in　the　many　windings　of　a　long　shawl
which　passed　several　times　round　his　centre；　in　this　he　wore　a
German…silver…handled　knife　or　dagger　of　pure　Birmingham　or　Sheffield
origin。　His　figure　was　very　perfect；　and　he　was　as　thoroughly　〃set…up〃
as　though　he　had　been　in　the　hands　of　a　drill…sergeant　from　his　cradle。
He　carried　a　long　stick　like　the　shaft　of　a　lance；　with　which　he　could
poke　a　refractory　mule；　but　which　he　always　used　when　mounting　by
resting　one　end　upon　the　ground；　and　with　the　left　hand　upon　the　saddle
he　ascended　with　the　ease　of　a　spiritualist　〃floating　in　the　air。〃　Iiani
was　very　polite　to　ladies；　and　he　knew　their　ways。　He　seldom　advanced
without　an　offering　of　some　lovely　flower　or　a　small　sprig　of
sweetly…scented　herb；　which　he　invariably　presented　with　a　graceful　bow
and　a　smile　intended　to　represent　a　combination　of　humility；　amiability；
gentility；　and　as　many　other　〃ilitys〃　as　could　be　squeezed　into　his
expressive　features。　It　is　hardly　necessary　after　this　description　to
say　that　Iiani　was　a　very　tall　humbug；　pleasant　in　manner　when　he　had
his　own　way。　He　was　lazy　to　such　a　degree　that　he　invariably　fell　asleep
upon　his　mule　after　smoking　innumerable　cigarettes。　In　these　cases　his
long　body　swayed　to　the　right　and　left；　and　occasionally　nodded　forward
to　an　extent　that　sometimes　awoke　him　with　the　jerk；　after　which
spasmodic　return　of　consciousness　an　immediate　relapse　took　place；　and
he　fell　asleep　again。　As　he　rode　directly　before　me；　as　guide；　this
chronic　somnolency　was　most　annoying；　and　I　had　to　drive　his　mule　into　a
faster　walk　by　poking　its　hind…quarters　with　my　stick。　The　animal　would
then　break　into　a　sudden　trot；　which　would　awaken　the　rider　to　the　fact
that　he　had　been　dreaming；　upon　which　he　burst　into　some　peculiar　song
that　was　intended　to　prove　that　he　was　wide　awake；　but　after　a　few　bars
the　ditty　ceased；　the　head　once　more　nodded　and　swung　from　side　to　side；
the　mule　relaxed　its　pace　。　。　。　Iiani　was　asleep　again！

In　another　sense　he　was　very　wide…awake。　He　had　represented　to　me　that
he　was　the　proprietor　of　the　seven　camels　and　five　mules；　but　I　quickly
discovered　that　he　was　only　the　owner　of　a　completely　worn…out　old　camel
and　four　mules：　he　had　hired　the　other　animals　at　a　considerably　lower
rate　than　I　had　agreed　to　pay　him；　therefore　I　should　have　the
difficulty　of　several　discontented　owners　instead　of　one。　However；　we
had　started　before　this　fact　was　explained　by　my　factotum　Christo。

The　route　lay　along　the　sea…shore　through　a　forest　of　caroub…trees　and
olives；　occasionally　varied　by　patches　of　cereals。　Upon　our　right　to　the
sea…margin　were　tolerable　crops　of　barley；　most　of　which　had　been
irrigated　by　water　conducted　from　the　hills。　At　about　four　miles
distance　from　Kyrenia　the　caroubs　and　olives　of　all　growths　exhibited
the　effects　of　north…easterly　gales；　as　they　inclined　to　south…west；　and
those　nearest　to　the　sea；　which　acted　as　screens；　and　received　the　full
unbroken　force　of　the　wind；　were　seriously　damaged。　As　we　proceeded
towards　Lapithus　the　trees　became　widely　scattered；　the　slopes　were
steeper；　and　the　strip　of　level　ground　to　the　sea…margin　narrowed　to
only　half　a　mile。　The　mountains　rose　rapidly　from　this　base；　and　an
extra　deep　tinge　of　green　showed　the　effect　of　streams；　which　in　this
happy　spot　of　Cyprus　are　perennial。　Many　little　villages　were　dotted
about　the　mountain　sides　with　groves　of　olives　and　other　fruit…trees；
which　appeared　to　be　in　danger　from　the　impending　cliffs；　huge　masses
having　fallen　and　rolled　to　various　distances　at　the　bottom。　The　country
reminded　me　of　the　prettiest　portions　of　South　Italy。

At　eight　miles　from　Kyrenia　we　arrived　at　the　thriving　town　of　Karava；
built　upon　the　mountain　slope　and　watered　by　powerful　streams　diverted
into　artificial　channels　from　the　parent　bed。　The　large　population　of
this　neighbourhood　is　principally　engaged　in　the　production　of　silk；　for
which　the　locality　has　long　been　famous。　Every　garden　that　surrounded
the　houses　was　rich　in　mulberry…trees；　together　with　oranges　and　lemons
and　the　luxuriant　foliage　of　the　almond。　We　rode　along　steep　paved　lanes
within　the　town；　through　which　the　water　was　rushing　in　refreshing
streams；　until　we　at　length　reached　the　precipitous　edge　of　the　ravine；
which　in　the　rainy　season　becomes　an　important　torrent。　Although　some
flour…mills　are　worked；　I　observed　a　terrible　waste　of　water…power；
which　might　be　turned　to　account　for　machinery。　I　heard　the　usual　excuse
for　this　neglect；　〃The　people　have　no　money！〃

We　had　ridden　fast；　and　were　far　ahead　of　the　baggage　animals；　we
accordingl