cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第39节

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was　the　establishment　of　a　feudal　system；　and　he　endowed　with　portions
of　land；　according　to　rank；　about　300　knights　and　200　esquires；　who
formed　the　nucleus　of　the　nobility　and　privileged　bodies　in　Cyprus。

The　Lusignan　dynasty　thus　commenced　in　1192；　continued　until　1489；　and
terminated　with　Queen　Catherine　Cornaro；　when　Cyprus　was　annexed　by　the
Venetian　Republic。

I　did　not　ascend　to　the　castle　of　Buffavento；　which　towered　above　the
monastery　about　two　miles　distant；　but　I　observed　with　the　telescope
that　every　inch　of　ground　that　could　be　cultivated　was　green　with
barley；　even　to　extreme　heights　which　appeared　inaccessible。　Small
terraces　had　been　arranged　by　heaping　up　stones　among　the　numerous
declivities　to　save　the　soil　from　falling　below；　and　to　catch　the　wash
that　might　be　added　by　some　passing　shower。　This　was　the　result　of
enormous　labour；　far　disproportioned　to　the　value　of　the　crops；　yet　in
the　face　of　this　perilous　industry　there　are　persons　who　declare　that
the　Cypriotes　are　an　idle　race；　and　that　〃land　exists　in　superabundant
acreage　sufficient　for　double　the　amount　of　population。〃　If　this　theory
is　correct　the　Cypriotes；　who　climb　to　these　dizzy　heights　to　build　some
walls　among　the　precipices　that　will　act　as　an　agricultural　trap　to
catch　some　few　square　yards　of　soil；　must　be　simply　madmen；　but　I　have
not　found　them　wanting　either　in　brains　or　industry　when　working
independently　for　their　own　profit；　where　they　are　positively　wanting；
is　in　ready　money。　All　strangers　who　take　an　interest　in　agriculture
must　be　struck　with　the　extraordinary　pains　taken　by　the　natives　to　save
the　soil　from　water…wash；　to　which　I　have　already　alluded；　but　this
peculiarity　is　the　more　striking　when　we　observe　the　dangerous　positions
to　which　they　have　been　driven　by　a　desire　to　increase　their　lands。

In　a　ride　from　our　camp　to　St。　Hilarion　I　carefully　remarked　throughout
the　extremely　rugged　nature　of　the　route　that　no　plot；　however　minute；
had　been　neglected。　In　one　rocky　nook　buried　among　the　cliffs　was　a
little　cottage；　with　hanging　gardens　all　terraced　by　exceedingly　high
walls；　yet　affording　the　smallest　superficial　area　for　cultivation。　This
is　discernible　with　a　powerful　telescope　from　the　base　of　the　mountains；
although　to　the　naked　eye　it　appears　like　a　cluster　of　barren　rocks；
tinged　with　the　green　of　fruit…trees　growing　from　the　clefts。　If　such
labour　had　been　expended　to　produce　a　picturesque　effect　the　object
might　be　appreciated；　but　that　it　should　be　profitable　is　beyond　belief。

The　summit　of　St。　Hilarion　is　3340　feet　above　the　sea；　from　which；　in　a
direct　line；　it　is　not　three　miles　distant。　The　cliffs　are　quite
perpendicular　in　some　places　for　several　hundred　feet；　and　the　greatest
care　has　been　taken　to　perch　the　towers　and　walls　upon　the　extreme
verge。　Although　from　the　base　of　the　mountains　at　Kyrenia　the　castle
appears　to　occupy　an　impregnable　position；　it　can　be　easily　approached
by　one　of　those　rough　paths　in　the　rear　which　can　be　scrambled　over　by
the　Cyprian　mules。　I　am　afraid　that　my　willing　animal　grumbled　somewhat
at　my　weight；　as　it　was　obliged　to　halt　for　breath　seven　or　eight　times
before　we　reached　a　secluded　little　dell　among　the　mountain　tops；　from
which　the　path　ascended　by　steep　zigzags；　directly　through　the　entrance
of　the　old　fortification。　This　narrow　dell；　hidden　among　the　surrounding
crags　about　2800　feet　above　the　sea；　was　entirely　cropped　with　barley；
and　the　people　who　owned　the　plot　resided　in　a　cave　that　had　been
arranged　for　a　habitation　for　themselves　and　animals。

On　the　ridge　before　we　descended　into　this　vale　the　view　was
magnificent；　as　two　lofty　crags　formed　a　natural　frame　for　the　picture
within。　Between　these　rugged　peaks　of　silvery　grey　limestone；　tinted　by
ferruginous　rocks　with　various　shades　of　red　and　brown；　we　looked　down　a
precipice　beneath　our　feet　upon　the　blue　sea；　the　snow…capped　mountains
of　Caramania　in　the　distance；　and　the　rich　border　of　our　own　shores
covered　with　green　trees；　gardens；　fields；　and　clustering　villages：　in
the　centre　of　which　was　the　fort　and　harbour　of　Kyrenia。　I　could　just
distinguish　our　white　tents　among　the　caroub…trees　far　beneath。　To
complete　this　superb　landscape　there　should　have　been　a　few　sails　upon
the　sea；　but　all　was　blue　and　barren；　without　signs　of　life。　The　castle
of　St。　Hilarion　stood　before　us　on　the　left　as　we　faced　the　sea；　and　the
towers　occupied　the　peaks　within　less　than　a　quarter　of　a　mile　of　our
position。　Continuing　along　the　narrow　vale；　a　mountain…top　upon　our
left…hand；　which　sloped　to　the　path　upon　which　we　rode；　appeared
slightly　higher　than　the　extreme　summit　of　the　castle　peak；　the　sides　of
this　steep　slope　were　covered　with　dwarf　cypress　and　occasional　young
pines；　and　it　was　clear　that　St。　Hilarion　would　be　commanded　by　a
battery　upon　these　heights；　or　even　by　the　fire　of　modern　rifles。
Ascending　the　zigzag　path　among　blocks　of　fallen　stone；　which　had　rolled
from　the　partially　dismantled　walls；　we　entered　the　gateway；　and　at　once
perceived　the　great　extent　of　the　old　fortress。　The　entire　mountain…top
is　encircled　by　a　high　wall；　flanked　at　intervals　by　towers；　and
crenellated　for　archers　or　cross…bowmen。　Although　the　opposite　mountain
would　by　artillery　fire　completely　command　the　inner　and　lower　portion
of　the　works；　which　we　had　now　entered；　the　distance　would　have　been　far
beyond　the　range　of　catapults　or　arrows　at　the　time　when　the　defences
were　erected。　The　error　appeared　to　have　been　in　the　great　area　of　the
fortifications；　which　would　have　necessitated　a　garrison　of　at　least
4000　men；　entailing　a　large　supply　of　provisions　and　of　water。　There　was
no　trace　of　a　well　throughout　the　works；　but　I　observed　the　remains　of
water…pipes　in　numerous　directions；　which　appeared　to　have　conducted　the
rainfall　into　reservoirs。　The　nearest　water　was　by　the　caves；　occupied
by　the　peasants　in　the　glen；　about　a　quarter　of　a　mile　distant。　Nothing
would　have　been　easier　than　an　investment；　which　would　sooner　or　later
have　reduced　the　garrison　to　starvation；　as　the　precipices　upon　the
north；　west；　and　east；　which　rendered　the　position　impregnable　from
those　directions；　at　the　same　time　prevented　an　exit；　and　effectually
barred　all　egress　either　for　sorties　or　escape。　The　first　court　upon
entering　the　gateway　comprised　several　acres；　but　there　was　no　level
ground；　and　the　natural　slope　of　the　mountain　was　inclosed　by　walls　and
parapets　upon　all　sides；　until　at　convenient　places　the　earth　had　been
scarped　out　for　the　erection　of　buildings；　which　had　either　been
barracks　or　magazines。　These　were　all　of　stone　and　hard　cement；　and　were
now　used　as　stables　for　various　animals　by　the　few　peasants　of　this　wild
neighbourhood。　Passing　through　galleries；　from　which　an　occasional
window　showed　a　deep　chasm　of　many　hundred　feet　beneath；　and　continuing
until　we　entered　a　tower　which　terminated　the　passage　upon　a
perpendicular　peak　that　enfiladed　the　outer　line　of　defence；　and　at　the
same　time　from　its　great　height　commanded　the　main　approach；　we
descended　a　rude　flight　of　steps；　and　presently　entered　a　grand　hall
supported　upon　numerous　arches　which　appeared　to　connect　two　peaks　of
the　mountain。　Descending　from　this　solid　work；　we　entered　upon　a　plot　of
grass　which　sloped　towards　a　precipice　of　rock　that　completely　closed
this　side　of　the　fortress。　Several　cypress…trees　grew　among　the　stones；
which　assisted　us　in　ascending　from　this　steep　and　dangerous　slope；
until　by　a　passage　which　led　into　a　quadrangular　courtyard　of　grass　we
emerged　into　an　imposing　portion　of　the　ruin　which　commanded　the　west
face。　This　was　a　wall　built　upon　the　extreme　edge　of　a　precipice；　which
looked　down　a　giddy　depth；　and　afforded　a　lovely　view　lengthways　of　the
narrow　strip　of　caroub…forest　and　verdure　along　the　mountain　range　to
the　margin　of　the　sea。　The　guide　knew　every　inch　of　these　labyrinth…like
works；　and　upon　my　expressing　a　desire　to　ascend　to　the　earth　on　the
summit；　he　commenced　a　scramble　over　loose　stones；　large　rocks；　and
occasional　slippery　grass；　holding　on　to　the　now　numerous　dwarf…cypress；
until　we　reached　a　narrow　saddle　of　the　peak；　over　which　a　man　could　sit
astride　and　look　down　to　the　right　and　left　into　the　depth　below。　It　was
necessary　to　cross　this　saddle　for　about　ten　or　twelve　feet　to　gain　the
wider　pathway　formed　by　the　natural　rock；　which　was　terminated　after　a
few　yards　by　the　castle　tower。　This；　as　may　be　imagined；　was　built　upon
the　verge；　and　formed　an　artificial　peak　to　the　precipices　upon　all
sides。　The　view　was　superb；　as　it　commanded　a　panorama　of　mountains；
valleys；　the　sea；　precipices；　and　all　that　could　make　a　perfect
landscape。

Sitting　down　to　rest　upon　the　solid　rock　upon　the　left　of　this　castle
entrance；　I　observed　that　it　was　composed　of　white　marble。　The　exterior
had　a　greyish　coating　from　the　action　of　the　weather；　but　this　could　be
scraped　off　with　a　knife；　which　exposed　the　white　marble　beneath。　I
remarked　that　the　cement　of　the　masonry　was　mixed　with　small　fragments
of　the　same　material；　and　subsequently　I　discovered　blocks　of　this
substance　in　the　immediate　neighbourhood　of　Kyrenia。