cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第37节

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gale；　but　this　portion　is　now　silted　up；　and　it　should　be　cleared　by
dredging。　The　houses　rise　above　the　harbour　from　the　water's　edge　to　the
cliffs；　forming　a　horseshoe　shape。　Mr。　Holbeach　had　just　completed　a
small　quay　of　masonry；　and　a　very　moderate　outlay　would　restore　the
ancient　mole　and　render　Kyrenia　an　important　port　for　the　trading
vessels　of　Syria　and　Asia　Minor。　When　a　good　carriage…road　shall　be
completed　to　the　capital；　Lefkosia；　only　sixteen　miles　distant；　the
value　of　Kyrenia　as　a　commercial　harbour　will　be　much　enhanced。　There
are　also　important　towns　with　a　considerable　population　within　eight　or
nine　miles　of　Kyrenia　on　the　west：　Carava　and　Lapithas　would　offer
markets　for　a　great　extension　of　trade；　and　Morphu　would　be　brought
within　the　same　commercial　circle。　There　is　a　peculiar　advantage
throughout　the　ports　of　Cyprus　in　the　presence　of　stone　quarries　upon
the　spot　where　the　material　is　required；　this　is　specially　marked　at
Kyrenia；　where　the　solid　rock；　with　its　tombs；　cave…dwellings；　and
ancient　quarries；　is　on　the　actual　borders　of　the　sea；　within　a　few
yards　of　the　existing　harbour。　There　would　be　no　great　difficulty　in
converting　these　quarries　into　a　dock；　should　a　demand　for　stone　be
sufficient　to　repay　the　outlay　for　cutting　the　supply；　according　to　the
example　already　exhibited　and　left　to　us　by　the　ancients。

The　quarries　of　Kyrenia　form　the　chief　curiosity　of　the　locality。　The
rock　is　the　sedimentary　limestone　mixed　with　a　proportion　of　sand　that
is　the　characteristic　geological　feature　around　the　coast　of　Cyprus；　but
in　these　quarries　the　stone　is　perfectly　solid　and　free　from　fissures；
which　enables　the　mason　to　obtain　blocks　of　any　size。　From　prehistoric
times　the　rock　of　Kyrenia；　which　rises　about　forty　feet　above　the
sea…level；　has　been　worked　out　upon　the　most　careful　method；　every　block
has　been　cut　from　the　parent　mass　by　measurement；　and　no　broken　edges
have　been　permitted　to　destroy　the　symmetry　of　the　adjoining　stone。　The
work　was　commenced　from　the　top；　or　surface　of　the　rock；　and　a　smooth
cliff　face　has　been　produced　as　the　first　operation；　upon　completion　the
surface　has　been　lined　out　parallel　with　the　perpendicular　face；　and　the
blocks　have　been　carefully　chiselled　and　removed　by　wedges　driven
horizontally　from　beneath。　In　this　manner　the　rock　has　been　worked　until
it　resembled　a　flight　of　steps；　which　remain　in　many　places　perfect　to
the　present　hour。　The　entire　fortress　and　town　have　been　constructed
from　these　quarries；　and　there　can　be　no　doubt　that　when　Kyrenia　was
originally　founded　by　the　Dorian　colonists　under　Cepheus　and　Praxander
the　stones　were　obtained　from　the　existing　site。　There　is　a　considerable
difference　in　the　quality　of　the　rock；　which　has　been　remarked　by　the
original　builders；　as　a　passage　has　been　cut　through　the　first　cliff
face　nearest　to　the　town；　and　the　desired　level　for　wheeled　conveyances
having　been　obtained；　the　workmen　have　discovered　a　superior　stone　as
they　proceeded　into　the　bowels　of　the　quarry。　They　have　accordingly
neglected　much　of　the　nearer　portion；　and　have　excavated　a　large　square；
always　pushing　forward　towards　the　west；　which　is　now　terminated　by　a
worked　perpendicular　face　and　a　series　of　steps　incomplete；　precisely　as
it　remained　when　the　last　chisel　relinquished　the　labour。

This　quality　of　rock　in　all　parts　of　Cyprus　is　cavernous；　and　the
natural　caves　have　suggested　to　the　ancients　an　artificial　extension
both　for　dwellings　and　for　cemeteries。　The　rock　is　easily　worked　by　the
mason's　pick；　and　near　the　town　I　observed　an　old　fort…ditch　which　had
been　originally　excavated　for　the　double　object　of　quarrying　building
stone　at　the　same　time　that　it　served　the　purpose　of　defence。　There
would　be　no　great　difficulty　in　connecting　the　ancient　quarry　with　the
harbour　by　cutting　a　canal　through　the　soft　rock　and　extending　the　depth
of　the　ancient　excavations。　It　is　well　known　to　all　quarrymen　that　the
stone　should　be　placed　in　a　building　according　to　the　position　in　which
it　lay　when　forming　the　original　rock。　Within　the　fortress　of　Kyrenia
there　are　many　examples　of　neglect；　where　the　masons　have　either
inverted　or　placed　the　stones　sideways；　in　which　case　the　action　of　the
weather　has　completely　honey…combed　and　reduced　the　material　to　an
appearance　of　decayed　coral。　I　observed　instances　of　similar　neglect
with　the　same　results　in　portions　of　the　fortress　of　Famagousta。

The　tombs　are　easily　distinguished　from　the　cave…dwellings　with　which
the　rocks　are　perforated；　as　they　are　merely　chambers　of　a　few　feet
square　sufficient　for　the　reception　of　a　limited　number　of　bodies；　the
dwellings　have　been　carefully　chiselled；　and　arranged　with　a　bench　cut
from　the　solid　rock　around　the　apartment。

The　remains　of　ancient　fortifications；　including　ruined　towers　and
ditches；　prove　that　in　former　times　Kyrenia　was　of　far　greater　extent
than　would　be　implied　by　its　present　small　proportions。　In　like　manner
with　Famagousta　this　powerful　fort　has　been　considered　as　a　position　to
be　occupied　exclusively　by　Turks。　The　population　of　the　town　is　now
about　600；　but　the　Greek　element　is　increasing　since　the　British
Convention　ensured　their　protection。

Our　camp　was　daily　visited　by　the　women　of　both　Turks　and　Cypriotes；　who
came　to　indulge　their　curiosity；　and　my　wife　had　some　difficulty　in
receiving　the　increasing　circle　of　acquaintance。　The　want　of　a　female
interpreter　was　at　first　acutely　felt；　as　the　conversation　was　much
restricted　when　Georgi　was　the　only　medium。　After　a　few　days　this
shyness　on　the　part　of　the　Turkish　ladies　wore　off；　and　Georgi；　who　was
a　good；　painstaking　young　fellow；　became　a　favourite；　some　of　these
ladies　were　exceedingly　gracious；　and　took　off　their　veils　when　in　the
tent　with　Lady　Baker　and　myself；　and　conversed　upon　various　subjects
with　much　intelligence。　A　few　were　decidedly　pretty；　all　were　studiously
clean　and　well　dressed；　and　they　formed　a　marked　contrast　in　appearance
and　general　style　to　the　Cypriote　women；　the　breed　was　superior；　their
hands　were　delicate　and　well　cared　for；　but　disfigured　by　the　prevalent
habit　of　staining　the　nails　and　palms　with　henna。　This　plant　is　called
shenna　by　all　Turks　and　Cypriotes；　and　it　is　imported　from　Syria　for　the
purpose　of　dyeing　the　hair；　and　also　the　feet　and　hands　of　Turkish
women。　It　is　not　a　production　of　Cyprus；　as　has　been　erroneously　stated
by　some　authors；　I　made　particular　inquiries　in　all　portions　of　the
island；　and　of　all　classes；　upon　this　subject。　The　henna；　or　shenna；　is
only　to　be　met　with　in　some　few　gardens；　where　it　is　cultivated　as　an
ornamental　shrub；　in　the　same　manner　that　the　arbutus　may　be　seen　in　the
shrubberies　of　England。　The　Turkish　women　are　very　particular　in　dyeing
their　hair；　and　use　various　preparations。　The　shenna　produces　a　glossy
red；　which　some　years　ago　was　the　fashionable　tinge　in　England。　There　is
also　a　small　seed　of　a　plant　which　is　prepared　by　roasting　until　burnt；
like　coffee；　and　then　reducing　to　powder；　which　is　formed　into　a　paste
with　oil；　this　is　a　well…known　dye；　which　turns　the　hair　into　a　deep
black。　There　was　a　sudden　rush　for　information　when　the　British
occupation　of　Cyprus　was　announced　to　the　startled　public；　and　books
were　rather　hurriedly　put　together；　compiled　from　various　authorities；
which；　although　yielding　valuable　information　upon　many　points；
unfortunately　perpetuated　errors　by　reproducing　erroneous　statements。
The　asserted　existence　of　henna　as　〃an　indigenous　shrub　which　originated
the　name　of　Cyprus；〃　is　an　instance　of　such　mistakes；　similar　to　the
descriptions　of　〃HEATH…covered　surface；〃　when　no　such　plant　exists　upon
the　island。

The　longer　I　remained　in　the　neighbourhood　of　Kyrenia　the　deeper　was　my
regret　that　the　arrivals　of　strangers　should　take　place　in　the　southern
ports；　instead　of　receiving　their　first　impressions　of　Cyprus　by　an
introduction　to　this　lovely　coast。　I　was　never　afloat　on　the　northern
side；　but　the　view　must　be　strikingly　impressive；　as　the　trees；　ever
green　almost　to　the　water's　edge；　shadow　the　rocky　coves；　and　clothe　the
surface　to　the　base　of　the　mountains；　whilst；　at　a　short　distance　from
the　land　these　must　appear　as　though　rising　abruptly　from　the　sea。　The
castles　upon　the　extreme　summits　form　unmistakable　landmarks；　resembling
sentries　on　either　side　the　fort　and　harbour　of　Kyrenia。

On　6th　April　the　general　rendezvous　was　the　monastery　of　Bellapais；
three　and　a　half　miles　distant　from　Kyrenia；　in　response　to　the
invitation　of　Major　McCalmont；　7th　Hussars；　on　the　staff　of　Sir　Garnet
Wolseley；　who　had　taken　immense　trouble　for　the　gratification　of　his
guests　by　sending　tents；　baggage；　and　sleeping　accommodation　for　two
nights；　in　addition　to　every　kind　of　necessary　refreshments。

The　route　from　Kyrenia　lay　through　a　country　of　the　brightest　shades　of
green；　parallel　with　the　sea；　about　a　mile　and　a　half　distant；　towards
which　a　succession　of　deep　ravines；　which　formed　river…beds　in　the　rainy
season；　drained　from　the　mountains　at　right　angles　with　the　path。　This
side　of　the　Carpas　range　formed　a　strong　contrast　with　the　parched
southern　slopes；　as　every　gar