cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第36节

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demoralised；　and　was　withdrawn　from　this　lonely　position　completely
fever…smitten。　I　made　close　inquiries　among　the　natives；　and　all　agreed
that　the　past　year；　having　been　unusually　wet；　had　been　exceptionally
unhealthy；　and　the　inhabitants　had　suffered　almost　to　the　same　degree　as
the　Europeans。　It　was　painfully　clear　that　when　the　rainfall　was
sufficiently　plentiful　to　produce　abundant　harvests　it　at　the　same　time
ensured　a　crop　of　fevers。

We　remained　ten　days　in　our　Kyrenia　camp；　and　we　were　both　sorry　to
leave；　as　the　neighbourhood　is　exceedingly　beautiful　and　full　of
interest；　there　is　certainly　no　portion　of　Cyprus　that　can　equal　it　in
the　picturesque；　or　in　the　extreme　richness　of　genuine　forest…trees　and
foliage。

The　town　is　small　and　most　irregular：　an　old　Turkish　graveyard　forms　a
boundary　upon　the　outskirts　opposite　the　fort；　precisely　similar　in
position　to　that　of　Famagousta。　Within　300　paces　of　this　point　are　the
principal　houses；　mostly　well　built　of　stone　and　surrounded　by
high…walled　gardens　fruitful　in　oranges；　lemons；　almonds；　apricots；
figs；　and　the　fruits　commonly　known　throughout　the　island。　The　houses
are　generally　one　story　above　the　ground…floor；　with　a　wide　balcony　that
forms　an　open　face　to　the　first…floor　of　five　or　six　arches；　which
support　the　roof　upon　that　side。　This　is　a　convenient　plan　for　the
climate；　as　it　admits　fresh　air　to　all　the　rooms　which　open　into　the
balcony；　in　fact　it　is　an　open　landing　to　the　staircase。　A　few
date…palms　ornament　the　gardens；　the　presence　of　these　graceful　trees
being　a　sure　sign　of　the　preponderance　of　Turks　in　the　population。

The　fort　of　Kyrenia　is　a　great　curiosity；　as　it　forms　a　portion　of　the
harbour；　being　situated　like　the　nose　in　a　pair　of　spectacles；　the
basins　being　the　eyes　right　and　left。　The　actual　defences　are　intact；
although　the　inner　accommodation　for　barracks；　magazines；　&c。；　&c。；
require　great　repairs　and　alteration。　The　walls　are　of　solid　squared
masonry；　the　stones　jointed　with　the　usual　imperishable　cement；　and　rise
to　the　great　perpendicular　height　of　upwards　of　seventy　feet　sheer　from
the　bottom　of　the　fosse。　There　is　only　one　entrance；　by　a　narrow　bridge
upon　arches；　across　the　extremely　wide　and　deep　ditch；　terminating　near
the　gateway　by　a　drawbridge；　which　admits　an　entry　in　the　face　of　the
immense　wall；　with　portcullis　and　iron…bound　hinged　gate。　The　ramparts
overlooking　the　town　and　harbour　on　the　west　face　are　147　yards　in
length；　exclusive　of　the　tower；　and　the　embrasures　of　solid　masonry
measured　at　the　angle　are　generally　twenty…four　feet　in　thickness。　The
fort　is　nearly　square；　and　is　flanked　at　each　corner　by　a　circular　tower
which　would　completely　enfilade　the　ditch　by　several　tiers　of　guns。　This
powerful　fortress　is　washed　by　the　sea　upon　two　sides　（the　north　and
east）；　and　the　foundations　upon　the　native　rock　are　protected　from　the
action　of　the　waves　by　reefs　and　huge　fragments　of　natural　detached
masses　which　characterise　this　portion　of　the　coast。　As　I　stood　upon　the
parapet　facing　north　I　obtained　an　admirable　view　of　the　original
harbours　to　my　left　and　right；　and　although　they　could　never　have
admitted　large　vessels；　I　was　struck　by　the　great　importance　of　this
sole　place　of　refuge　upon　the　northern　coast　of　Cyprus；　which　in　former
times　had　suggested　such　a　formidable　arrangement　for　defence。　The　fort
was　constructed　by　the　Venetians；　but　there　are　fallen　masses　of　much
older　works　that　now　lie　at　the　foot　of　the　sea…face；　and　add　to　the
natural　reefs　in　defending　the　foundations　from　the　breaking　water。

The　style　of　this　fortress　suggests　a　date　anterior　to　Famagousta；　as　it
is　devoid　of　cavaliers　and　depends　for　its　defence　upon　the　simple
flanking　fire　of　the　four　towers　and　the　great　height　and　thickness　of
the　walls。　It　is　supplied　with　fresh　water　by　an　aqueduct；　and　is
provided　with　immense　reservoirs　of　masonry　to　contain　a　sufficient
quantity　during　a　prolonged　siege；　when　the　outer　aqueduct　might　be
destroyed　by　the　enemy。　There　are　extensive　subterranean　caves　and
dungeons；　but　these　have　not　yet　been　explored。　Above　this　fine　old
specimen　of　Venetian　fortifications；　upon　the　high　platform　of　the　tower
facing　the　harbour；　was　a　flag…staff；　upon　which　a　small　bundle　of　rags
fluttered　in　the　strong　wind；　as　though　they；　had　been　arranged　to
frighten　the　jackdaws　from　building　within　the　crevices　of　masonry。　It
appeared　that　this　miserable　remnant　of　tattered　bunting　had　once
represented　a　British　Union　Jack！　and　the　colourless；　poverty…stricken
thing　flapped　and　cracked　as　it　tore　itself　into　the　finest　threads　of
misery　in　the　gale；　too　truly　representing　the　result　of　our　ambiguous
position　according　to　the　terms　of　the　Cyprian　occupation。　I　felt
ashamed　that　such　an　exhibition　should　meet　the　eye　of　any　foreign　ship
upon　entering　the　harbour　of　Kyrenia；　and　I　was　informed　〃that　it　was
the　only　flag　that　was　possessed　by　the　authorities。〃　As　all　the　revenue
of　the　island　was　handed　over　to　the　Porte　excepting　a　bagatelle
insufficient　for　the　requirements　of　the　country；　the　really　overworked
and　energetic　servants　of　the　Crown　were　absolutely　obliged　to　practise
a　most　rigid　economy；　commencing　with　their　own　salaries；　equally
vexatious　to　themselves　and　unworthy　of　our　high　position。

The　curious　collection　of　old　cannon　had　all　been　removed　by　the　Turks；
but　one　iron　piece　remained；　which；　being　almost　worthless　as　metal；　had
been　left　behind　when　the　bronze　guns　had　been　shipped　to
Constantinople。　This　was　a　great　curiosity；　as　it　somewhat　resembled　a
hand…bell　about　five　feet　in　length；　the　bell　which　formed　the　mouth　to
receive　the　ball　was　only　two　feet　in　length；　although　the　muzzle　was
sufficiently　wide　to　admit　the　stone　projectile　of　nineteen　inches
diameter。　The　portion　which　resembled　the　handle　of　a　bell　was　the
continuation　which　formed　the　narrow　chamber　for　the　powder；　this　was
about　three　feet　long　and　eight　inches　thick*。　（*These　measurements　are
from　memory；　excepting　the　diameter　of　muzzle；　which　I　took　on　the
spot。）　There　were　no　trunnions　to　this　singular　old　gun；　but　it　may　have
been　lashed　to　some　lever　which　could　be　raised　or　depressed；　and　it　was
evidently　intended　for　firing　into　shipping　from　the　fort　walls；　to
command　the　harbour　at　a　short　range。　It　had　been　cast　with　concentric
rings；　which　I　examined　carefully；　as　at　first　I　imagined　they　had　been
wrought…iron　shrunk　on　to　the　casting：　this　was　not　the　case；　but　the
extra　thickness　of　metal　at　the　rings　added　sufficient　strength。　The
large　stone　shot；　formed　of　a　peculiarly　hard　metamorphous　rock　（a
conglomerate　of　matter　that　had　been　fused　by　heat）；　were　to　be　seen　in
various　positions　within　the　fortress。　A　few　were　on　the　parapet　above
the　drawbridge；　as　though　prepared　for　rolling　over　upon　an　assaulting
party。　I　found　this　quality　of　rock　upon　the　mountains　within　two　miles
of　Kyrenia。

There　were　evidently　two　harbours；　which　included　the　small　bay　upon
either　side　of　the　present　fort；　that　upon　the　west　was　the　most
important；　as　the　depth　of　water　is　greater；　and　it　shows　evident　signs
of　having　received　peculiar　attention。　The　remains　of　the　ancient　moles
still　exist；　and　afford　considerable　protection；　but　the　sea　has　broken
through　in　several　places　and　washed　away　the　upper　tiers　of　stones。
These　moles　were　carefully　constructed　by　laying　the　masonry　upon　a
foundation　of　hydraulic　cement；　which　connected　the　various　natural
rocks；　the　layer　of　cement　still　exists；　while　the　squared　blocks　of　the
original　surface　may　be　seen　at　the　bottom；　where　they　have　been
deposited　by　the　waves。　Like　all　defensive　works　in　historical
countries；　those　of　Kyrenia　have　undergone　continual　changes　and
modifications；　as　from　time　to　time　alterations　may　have　been　suggested
by　successful　attacks。　In　a　ruined　tower　which；　completely　isolated
within　the　sea；　commanded　the　entrance　of　the　harbour　on　the　west；　I
observed　that　an　ancient　column　of　white　marble　from　some　old　building
has　been　used　as　a　key　to　prevent　the　large　squared　stones　from　yielding
to　the　constant　vibration　caused　by　the　breaking　waves。　Each　tier　of
stones　has　been　cut　at　the　central　edge　to　form　a　half…circle　where　the
edges　of　the　adjoining　blocks　were　connected；　those　have　been　similarly
shaped　to　produce　a　complete　circle　when　faced　together。　The　squared
stones　in　the　lower　and　upper　tiers　have　been　perforated　in　a　circle；　so
that　when　several　courses　of　masonry　were　completed；　the　hole
represented　a　shaft　of　about　twelve　inches　diameter；　sunk　from　top　to
bottom；　the　marble　column　has　been　inserted　from　the　top；　and　has　tied
each　course　effectively　together；　the　havoc　occasioned　in　this　tower　of
solid　squared　blocks　is　the　work　of　man；　the　stones　have　until　recently
been　removed　for　the　purposes　of　building。

Kyrenia　could　never　have　been　a　perfectly　safe　harbour　in　all　weathers；
as　the　entrance　is　open　to　the　north。　There　is　a　slight　turn　to　the
east；　which　might　have　protected　a　few　small　vessels　during　a　northerly
gale；　but　this　portion　is　now　silted　up；　and　it　should　be　cleared　by
dredging。　The　houses　rise　above　the　harbour　f