cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第35节

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upheaval。　Having　passed　through　a　succession　of　ups　and　downs　for　about
three　miles；　sometimes　winding　through　narrow　gorges　where　the　soil　was
covered　with　an　efflorescence　of　salt；　at　other　places　clambering　over
loose　rocks　and　entering　narrow　glens；　we　arrived　in　a　plain　at　the　foot
of　the　bold　and　bluff　range　of　the　Carpas　mountains。　The　path　led　to　a
village　almost　concealed　amongst　dwarf…cypress　and　pines；　at　a　spot
where　the　ascent　commenced　to　a　deep　gorge　forming　a　gap　between　the
heights　upon　either　side；　through　which　the　road　was　being　rendered
accessible　for　wheeled　conveyances　to　Kyrenia。

We　had　quitted　the　Messaria　and　its　misery；　thank　Heaven；　we　once　more
looked　upon　green　trees；　and　magnificent　cliffs　of　compact　grey
limestone　tinted　with　various　colours　according　to　the　presence　of
metallic　substances；　instead　of　wearying　the　eyes　with　the　depressing
brown　of　a　withered　surface。　The　road　was　improving　under　the　hands　of
several　working　parties；　and　the　animals　stepped　along　at　a　cheerful
pace。　On　the　left　hand　were　exceedingly　steep　slopes；　ascending　for
several　hundred　yards　to　the　base　of　cliffs；　which　rose　in　many　places
almost　perpendicular　to　the　height　of　more　than　2000　feet　above　the　sea。
Upon　our　right　we　skirted　a　deep　ravine；　the　bottom　and　sides　of　which
were　completely　covered　with　mastic　shrubs；　and　myrtles。　Above　this
gorge　the　cliffs　rose　in　imposing　grandeur　to　about　3000　feet；　the
clefts　being　filled　with　evergreens；　and　in　some　unapproachable　heights
which　man　had　not　invaded　the　Pinus　maritima　ornamented　the　grey　crags
with　its　foliage　of　pale　green。

We　should　have　turned　off　to　the　left　towards　St。　Hilarion；　but；　without
a　guide；　we　overshot　the　path；　and　having　ridden　about　three　miles
through　the　gorge；　always　ascending；　we　suddenly　burst　upon　the
magnificent　view　of　the　northern　side。　At　this　moment　a　few　heavy　drops
of　rain　fell　from　inky　clouds　which　had　been　gathering　among　the
mountains；　and　I　thought　it　advisable　to　forego　the　excursion　to　St。
Hilarion；　and　to　push　on　towards　Kyrenia；　three　miles　distant；　though
apparently　almost　at　our　feet。

The　dark　clouds　above　us　added　to　the　beauty　of　the　scenery。　We　looked
down　upon　the　blue　sea；　and　the　snow…covered　mountains　of　Caramania　in
the　northern　distance；　with　the　beautiful　foreground　of　perpendicular
green　cliffs　upon　our　right；　up　to　nearly　3000　feet；　and　the　abrupt
mountain　sides　upon　the　left；　which　formed　the　entrance　to　the　gorge。
The　narrow　strip　of　three　miles　between　the　sea　margin　and　the　point
upon　which　we　stood　was　a　green　forest　of　caroub…trees；　almost　to　the
water's　edge。　The　town；　and　its　striking　feature　the　Venetian　fort；
stood　out　in　clear　relief　against　the　background　of　the　sea。　To　the
right　and　left；　farther　than　the　eye　could　reach；　were　trees　of　caroubs；
varied　by　almonds；　mulberries；　and　occasional　date…palms；　interspersed
with　highly　irrigated　fields　of　emerald　green。　The　beautiful　old
monastery　of　Bellapais；　erected　by　the　Templars；　although　in　reality
half　ruined；　appeared　from　this　distance　like　some　noble　ancestral
mansion；　surrounded　by　all　that　could　make　a　landscape　perfect：　trees；
water；　mountains；　precipices；　above　which　towered　the　castle　of
Buffavento　upon　the　craggy　sky…line；　while　to　the　left；　cutting　with
keen　edges　the　dark　cloud　that　hovered　over　it；　were　the　walls　and
towers　of　St。　Hilarion；　where　by　this　time　we　should　have　been　eating
luncheon　with　a　charming　party。　Pit…pat　came　the　heavy　drops；　and　still
drinking　in　the　magnificent　view；　we　descended　the　stony　and　steep　path
towards　Kyrenia。　When　we　arrived　near　the　base；　after　a　descent　of　about
a　mile　and　three…quarters；　a　perfectly　straight　road　of　a　good　width　led
direct　to　Kyrenia；　through　a　forest　of　the　shady　and　ever　green
caroub…trees。　By　this　time　the　shower　had　cleared　away；　and　only　a　few
light　clouds　hovered　over　the　high　point　of　St。　Hilarion；　and　having　had
nothing　to　eat；　we　began　to　wish　for　balloons　to　make　a　direct　ascent　to
the　well…provided　party　on　the　heights　above　us；　who　were　enjoying　the
hospitality　of　Colonel　Greaves。　We　comforted　ourselves　with　the　idea
that　we　had　at　all　events　been　wise　in　foregoing　pleasure　when　upon　the
march；　as　the　camels　had　been　ordered　to　start　from　Lefkosia；　and　it
would　be　advisable　that　the　camp　should　be　arranged　without　delay。　We
accordingly　dismounted　about　half　a　mile　from　Kyrenia；　and　having　tied
the　animals　beneath　a　wide…spreading　caroub；　we　selected　another　tree；
beneath　which　we　sat　to　await　the　arrival　of　the　camels　and　servants；　in
the　meantime　I　sent　the　muleteer　into　the　town　to　buy　us　something　to
eat。　After　about　an　hour　he　returned；　with　a　bottle　of　Commandoria　wine；
a　bunch　of　raw　onions；　a　small　goat's…milk　cheese；　a　loaf　of　brown
native　bread；　and　a　few　cigarettes；　which　the　good；　thoughtful　fellow
had　made　himself　for　my　own　private　enjoyment。　Many　years　of　my　life
have　been　passed　in　picnicking；　and　when　really　hungry；　it　is
astonishing　how　vulgar　diet　is　appreciated；　we　regretted　the　loss　of　our
friends；　but　we　nevertheless　enjoyed　the　simple　fare；　and　having　looked
at　our　watches；　we　speculated　upon　the　probable　arrival　of　the　camels
and　luggage；　and　waited　patiently　beneath　the　tree。

There　is　a　limit　to　all　endurance；　and　when　5　P。M。　arrived　without　a
sign　of　camels；　we　came　to　the　conclusion　that　something　had　gone　wrong。
It　was　in　vain　that　I　had　searched　the　pass　with　my　binocular；　only　the
white　thread　between　the　green　shrubs　appeared；　that　denoted　the　path；
and　this　was　desolate。

At　length　I　observed　something　moving　on　the　crest　of　the　pass：　mules　or
horses！　then　a　parasol！　somebody　was　coming；　most　likely　returning　to
Kyrenia　from　the　picnic？　Presently　a　mule；　saddled　but　without　a　rider；
came　galloping　down　the　road。　This　we　stopped；　and　secured；　it　looked
like　a　practical　result　of　a　good　luncheon　and　champagne　cup。　Shortly
after　this　first　appearance　a　dismounted　English　servant　came　walking
down　the　road　after　his　mule；　which　he　was　happy　to　recover　from　our
hands。　He　had　neither　seen　nor　heard　anything　of　our　camels　or　people；
but　his　master；　the　chief　commissioner　of　Kyrenia　（Dr。　Holbeach；　60th
Rifles）；　was　approaching；　together　with　Mr。　and　Mrs。　Stevenson；　all　of
whom　were　returning　from　St。　Hilarion。　At　length　the　distant　parasol
drew　nearer；　and　by　degrees　we　could　distinguish　the　party　as　they
emerged　from　the　pass　upon　the　broad　straight　road。

As　there　are　no　highwaymen　in　Cyprus；　I　had　no　hesitation　in　walking
suddenly　out　of　the　green　wood　upon　the　road…side　and　intercepting　them
as　they　arrived　in　front　of　our　position；　I　explained　that　we　were
〃waifs　and　strays〃　upon　the　wide　world　of　Cyprus　without　baggage　or
servants；　or；　in　fact；　what　Shakespeare　calls　〃sans　everything。〃　Mr。
Holbeach　with　much　kindness　and　hospitality　captured　us　as　vagrants；　and
insisted　upon　escorting　us　to　his　house。　Mrs。　Stevenson　was　good　enough
to　supply　Lady　Baker　with　a　few　little　necessaries　for　the　night；　and
Mr。　Holbeach；　having　thoughtfully　made　up　an　impromptu　little
dinner…party　of　all　named；　we　passed　a　most　pleasant　evening；　although　I
fear　that　our　sudden　invasion　of　his　bachelor's　quarters　must　have
caused　him　some　inconvenience。

On　the　following　morning；　we　enjoyed　the　splendid　view　from　the　covered
balcony　at　the　back　of　Mr。　Holbeach's　house；　which　showed　the　richest
foreground　in　Cyprus　in　the　dark　green　of　caroub…forest　and　gardens　of
fruit…trees　intermingled　with　plots　of　barley　already　in　the　ear。　This
rich　front　was　backed　by　the　wall　of　dark　limestone　cliffs　two　miles
distant；　3000　feet　elevation；　with　the　castles　of　Buffavento　and　St。
Hilarion　perched　left　and　right　on　the　giddy　summits　of　the　highest
crags；　which　in　the　clear　atmosphere　apparently　overhung　our　position。
We　then　breakfasted；　took　leave　of　our　hospitable　host；　and　rode　back　to
Lefkosia　to　inquire　into　the　cause　of　the　delay。

On　arrival　we　found　a　string　of　mules　just　starting；　as　the　camels　that
had　been　engaged　yesterday　had　never　appeared。　I　sent　off　the　servants
and　animals；　with　orders　to　pitch　the　tent　upon　the　site　of　the　old　camp
of　the　42nd　Highlanders；　within　a　mile　of　Kyrenia；　we　then　once　more
encroached　upon　the　kindness　of　Sir　Garnet　and　Lady　Wolseley　for　the
night。　On　the　following　morning　we　rode　to　Kyrenia；　sixteen　miles；　and
found　tents　pitched　in　a　delightful　situation；　and　the　camp　swept　and
arranged　in　perfect　order。　There　could　not　have　been　a　better　site　for　a
military　camp；　as　the　ground　was　firm　and　sloped　gradually　towards　the
sea；　above　which　the　elevation　may　have　been　about　120　feet。　The
beautiful　caroub…trees　afforded　a　dense　shade　for　individual　tents　and
for　unlimited　numbers　of　men。　The　ground　had　been　well　drained；　and
every　care　had　been　taken　to　ensure　the　health　of　the　troops；　but　in
spite　of　all　sanitary　arrangements　they　had　suffered　severely　from
fever；　by　which；　although　only　four　had　actually　succumbed；　and　now　lay
in　the　lonely　little　cemetery　close　to　our　tents；　the　regiment　had　been
demoralised；　and　was　withdrawn　from　this　lonely　position　completely
fever…smitten。　I　made　close　inquiries　among