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cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-µÚ29½Ú

С˵£º cyprus, as i saw it in 1879 ×ÖÊý£º ÿҳ4000×Ö

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passed¡¡through£»¡¡they¡¡came¡¡on¡¡to¡¡join¡¡us£»¡¡but¡¡only¡¡arrived¡¡some¡¡hours
later£»¡¡at¡¡nightfall¡£¡¡I¡¡discharged¡¡my¡¡camels¡¡that¡¡evening£»¡¡as¡¡the¡¡carts
would¡¡begin¡¡their¡¡new¡¡contract¡¡on¡¡the¡¡following¡¡morning¡£

I¡¡rose¡¡early¡¡on¡¡the¡¡next¡¡day£»¡¡as¡¡we¡¡had¡¡a¡¡long¡¡march¡¡of¡¡twenty¡­two¡¡miles
before¡¡us¡¡to¡¡Trichomo£»¡¡but¡¡as¡¡the¡¡oxen¡¡had¡¡been¡¡resting¡¡for¡¡many¡¡days£»
and¡¡I¡¡had¡¡been¡¡paying¡¡highly¡¡for¡¡their¡¡food¡¡while¡¡they¡¡had¡¡been¡¡doing
nothing£»¡¡I¡¡knew¡¡they¡¡must¡¡be¡¡in¡¡first¡­rate¡¡condition£»¡¡and¡¡in¡¡spite¡¡of
bad¡¡roads¡¡they¡¡would¡¡accomplish¡¡the¡¡distance¡£¡¡There¡¡was¡¡always¡¡a
difficulty¡¡in¡¡inducing¡¡the¡¡carters¡¡to¡¡start¡¡early£»¡¡but¡¡this¡¡morning
there¡¡was¡¡a¡¡greater¡¡delay¡¡than¡¡usual£»¡¡and¡¡I¡¡myself¡¡went¡¡to¡¡superintend
the¡¡loading¡¡of¡¡the¡¡carts¡£¡¡I¡¡could¡¡hardly¡¡believe¡¡my¡¡eyes£¡¡¡In¡¡Georgi's
cart¡¡the¡¡oxen¡¡had¡¡been¡¡yoked¡£¡¡There¡¡was¡¡a¡¡black¡¡creature¡¡about¡¡half¡¡a
foot¡¡shorter¡¡than¡¡its¡¡fellow£»¡¡and¡¡composed¡¡of¡¡skin¡¡and¡¡bones¡£¡¡The¡¡horns
of¡¡this¡¡animal¡¡were¡¡antiquities£º¡¡a¡¡drawn¡¡appearance¡¡about¡¡the¡¡head¡¡and
face£»¡¡and¡¡deeply¡¡sunken¡¡eyes£»¡¡denoted¡¡extreme¡¡age¡£¡¡The¡¡fellow¡¡ox¡¡I
recognised¡¡after¡¡some¡¡time¡¡as¡¡our¡¡old¡¡friend¡¡in¡¡reduced¡¡circumstances£»
it¡¡had¡¡been¡¡going¡¡through¡¡a¡¡course¡¡of¡¡wild¡¡artichokes¡¡and¡¡prickly
thistles¡¡since¡¡I¡¡had¡¡seen¡¡it¡¡last£»¡¡which¡¡had¡¡brought¡¡it¡¡into¡¡racing
condition¡¡by¡¡the¡¡loss¡¡of¡¡at¡¡least¡¡a¡¡hundredweight¡¡of¡¡flesh£»¡¡the¡¡poor
beast¡¡looked¡¡starved¡£¡¡Georgi¡¡had¡¡accordingly¡¡saved¡¡the¡¡whole¡¡of¡¡the
allowance¡¡I¡¡had¡¡paid¡¡for¡¡food¡¡of¡¡the¡¡best¡¡quality£»¡¡which¡¡he¡¡had¡¡pocketed
while¡¡his¡¡animal¡¡was¡¡turned¡¡out¡¡to¡¡graze¡£¡¡¡¨Where¡¡are¡¡my¡¡oxen£¿¡¨¡¡I
inquired¡¡of¡¡the¡¡conscious¡¡Georgi£»¡¡who¡¡wisely¡¡remained¡¡silent¡£¡¡I¡¡now
turned¡¡to¡¡Theodori's¡¡team£»¡¡and¡¡I¡¡at¡¡once¡¡perceived¡¡that¡¡he¡¡also¡¡had
exchanged¡¡one¡¡of¡¡the¡¡superb¡¡oxen¡¡which¡¡I¡¡had¡¡hired£»¡¡and¡¡upon¡¡which¡¡I¡¡had
depended¡¡for¡¡drawing¡¡the¡¡gipsy¡­van£»¡¡but¡¡the¡¡new¡¡purchase¡¡was¡¡a¡¡very
beautiful¡¡animal£»¡¡although¡¡inferior¡¡in¡¡height¡¡to¡¡its¡¡companion£»¡¡which
had¡¡much¡¡fallen¡¡off¡¡in¡¡condition£»¡¡having¡¡been¡¡fed¡¡upon¡¡the¡¡same
unnutritious¡¡food¡£¡¡I¡¡had¡¡been¡¡regularly¡¡done£»¡¡as¡¡the¡¡animals¡¡for¡¡which¡¡I
had¡¡paid¡¡highly¡¡had¡¡not¡¡only¡¡been¡¡neglected£»¡¡but¡¡had¡¡been¡¡exchanged¡£

I¡¡very¡¡quickly¡¡explained¡¡to¡¡the¡¡proprietors¡¡that¡¡they¡¡had¡¡no¡¡right
whatever¡¡to¡¡exchange¡¡the¡¡oxen¡¡which¡¡I¡¡had¡¡engaged£»¡¡and¡¡for¡¡which¡¡I¡¡was
paying¡¡in¡¡my¡¡absence£»¡¡therefore¡¡I¡¡should¡¡refuse¡¡to¡¡accept¡¡them£»¡¡as¡¡the
contract¡¡was¡¡broken£»¡¡and¡¡I¡¡immediately¡¡ordered¡¡the¡¡camels¡¡to¡¡be¡¡loaded
with¡¡the¡¡contents¡¡of¡¡the¡¡carts¡£¡¡Fortunately¡¡the¡¡discharged¡¡animals¡¡were
grazing¡¡within¡¡a¡¡few¡¡yards¡¡of¡¡our¡¡camp¡£

My¡¡servants¡¡now¡¡explained¡¡that¡¡Georgi¡¡the¡¡thick¡­headed¡¡had¡¡been¡¡done¡¡by
his¡¡dear¡¡friend¡¡and¡¡companion¡¡Theodori£»¡¡¡¨the¡¡man¡¡of¡¡ability£»¡¨¡¡who¡¡had
accompanied¡¡me¡¡into¡¡the¡¡Carpas¡¡with¡¡the¡¡sole¡¡intention¡¡of
cattle¡­dealing¡£¡¡It¡¡appeared¡¡that¡¡after¡¡my¡¡departure¡¡from¡¡Gallibornu£»
Theodori¡¡had¡¡suggested¡¡to¡¡his¡¡friend¡¡that¡¡a¡¡saving¡¡might¡¡be¡¡effected¡¡in
the¡¡keep¡¡of¡¡four¡¡animals¡¡by¡¡reducing¡¡them¡¡to¡¡two£»¡¡and¡¡he¡¡advised¡¡that
they¡¡should¡¡at¡¡once¡¡sell¡¡each¡¡one¡¡ox£»¡¡and¡¡arrange¡¡to¡¡purchase¡¡new
animals¡¡by¡¡the¡¡time¡¡that¡¡I¡¡should¡¡return£»¡¡they¡¡would¡¡by¡¡this¡¡method
pocket¡¡half¡¡the¡¡sum¡¡which¡¡I¡¡had¡¡agreed¡¡to¡¡pay¡¡daily¡¡for¡¡four¡¡oxen¡¡during
my¡¡absence¡¡at¡¡Cape¡¡St¡£¡¡Andrea¡£¡¡They¡¡subsequently¡¡came¡¡to¡¡the¡¡conclusion
that¡¡their¡¡remaining¡¡oxen¡¡should¡¡live¡¡upon¡¡their¡¡wits¡¡and¡¡thistles£»
instead¡¡of¡¡causing¡¡an¡¡expense¡¡in¡¡the¡¡purchase¡¡of¡¡cotton¡­seed£»¡¡lentils£»
and¡¡tibbin¡¡£¨broken¡¡barley¡­straw£©¡£¡¡Theodori¡¡informed¡¡Georgi¡¡that¡¡he¡¡knew
of¡¡two¡¡beautiful¡¡animals¡¡that¡¡might¡¡be¡¡obtained¡¡by¡¡the¡¡exchange¡¡of¡¡two
of¡¡their¡¡oxen¡¡with¡¡a¡¡small¡¡sum¡¡of¡¡money¡¡in¡¡addition£»¡¡and¡¡he¡¡would
arrange¡¡the¡¡matter¡¡if¡¡Georgi¡¡would¡¡part¡¡with¡¡the¡¡dark¡¡cream¡­coloured¡¡ox
with¡¡black¡¡points¡¡£¨his¡¡best£©¡£¡¡Of¡¡course¡¡the¡¡innocent¡­minded£»
broad¡­shouldered£»¡¡herculean¡¡Georgi¡¡knew¡¡that¡¡his¡¡friend¡¡would¡¡protect
his¡¡interests£»¡¡and¡¡he¡¡left¡¡the¡¡matter¡¡in¡¡his¡¡hands¡£¡¡The¡¡unmitigated
rascal¡¡Theodori¡¡knew¡¡that¡¡the¡¡beautiful¡¡fat¡¡red¡¡ox¡¡that¡¡he¡¡wished¡¡to
purchase¡¡was¡¡some¡¡years¡¡younger¡¡than¡¡the¡¡old¡¡well¡­trained¡¡oxen¡¡which
formed¡¡his¡¡pair£»¡¡and¡¡therefore¡¡it¡¡would¡¡be¡¡more¡¡valuable£»¡¡he¡¡accordingly
agreed¡¡to¡¡give¡¡one¡¡of¡¡his¡¡oxen¡¡and¡¡one¡¡of¡¡Georgi's¡¡FOR¡¡A¡¡PAIR¡¡from¡¡the
proprietor¡¡of¡¡the¡¡fat¡¡red¡¡animal£»¡¡who¡¡consented¡¡to¡¡the¡¡exchange£»
receiving¡¡the¡¡two¡¡fine¡¡animals¡¡which¡¡I¡¡had¡¡hired¡¡and£»¡¡giving¡¡the
valuable¡¡young¡¡red¡¡ox¡¡together¡¡with¡¡the¡¡miserable¡¡old¡¡creature¡¡that¡¡I
had¡¡seen¡¡that¡¡morning¡¡in¡¡the¡¡yoke¡£¡¡This¡¡worn¡­out¡¡old¡¡skeleton¡¡was¡¡to¡¡be
Georgi's¡¡share¡¡of¡¡the¡¡bargain£¡¡¡I¡¡told¡¡Georgi¡¡that¡¡my¡¡dogs¡¡would¡¡not¡¡eat
the¡¡animal¡¡if¡¡it¡¡should¡¡die£»¡¡as¡¡it¡¡was¡¡too¡¡thin¡£¡¡My¡¡servants¡¡burst¡¡out
laughing¡¡when¡¡Christo¡¡the¡¡cook¡¡translated¡¡the¡¡account¡¡of¡¡the
transaction¡£¡¡The¡¡shameless¡¡scoundrel¡¡Theodori£»¡¡who¡¡was¡¡present£»¡¡SMILED
at¡¡the¡¡relation¡¡of¡¡his¡¡shrewdness£»¡¡and¡¡the¡¡big¡¡Georgi¡¡burst¡¡out¡¡crying
like¡¡a¡¡child¡¡at¡¡the¡¡loss¡¡of¡¡his¡¡fine¡¡ox£»¡¡the¡¡duplicity¡¡of¡¡his¡¡friend£»
and¡¡the¡¡want¡¡of¡¡sympathy¡¡of¡¡the¡¡bystanders£»¡¡who¡¡made¡¡a¡¡joke¡¡of¡¡his
misfortune¡£¡¡I¡¡was¡¡very¡¡sorry¡¡for¡¡poor¡¡Georgi£»¡¡as¡¡he¡¡was¡¡really¡¡an
excellent¡¡fellow£»¡¡he¡¡had¡¡been¡¡only¡¡foolish¡¡in¡¡trusting¡¡to¡¡the¡¡honour¡¡of
his¡¡friend£»¡¡like¡¡some¡¡good¡¡people¡¡who¡¡apply¡¡for¡¡assistance¡¡to¡¡Lord
Penzance£»¡¡however£»¡¡there¡¡was¡¡no¡¡help¡¡for¡¡it£»¡¡and¡¡he¡¡departed¡¡crying
bitterly¡£

My¡¡servants¡¡were¡¡fond¡¡of¡¡the¡¡man£»¡¡and¡¡their¡¡hearts¡¡began¡¡to¡¡soften¡¡after
they¡¡had¡¡enjoyed¡¡the¡¡first¡¡hearty¡¡laugh¡¡at¡¡Georgi's¡¡expense£»¡¡and
Christo£»¡¡who¡¡was¡¡always¡¡the¡¡factotum£»¡¡shortly¡¡came¡¡with¡¡a¡¡suggestion£»
that£»¡¡¡¨If¡¡I¡¡would¡¡write¡¡an¡¡order¡¡for¡¡the¡¡immediate¡¡return¡¡of¡¡Georgi's
bullock£»¡¡on¡¡the¡¡plea¡¡that¡¡as¡¡I¡¡had¡¡hired¡¡the¡¡animal¡¡no¡¡one¡¡had¡¡a¡¡right
to¡¡exchange¡¡it¡¡until¡¡the¡¡expiration¡¡of¡¡my¡¡contract£»¡¨¡¡there¡¡would¡¡be¡¡no
difficulty£»¡¡as¡¡¡¨the¡¡purchaser¡¡would¡¡be¡¡afraid¡¡to¡¡retain¡¡the¡¡animal¡¡upon
seeing¡¡Georgi¡¡armed¡¡with¡¡a¡¡written¡¡paper¡£¡¨¡¡¡¨But£»¡¨¡¡I¡¡said£»¡¡¡¨what¡¡is¡¡the
use¡¡of¡¡my¡¡writing¡¡in¡¡English£»¡¡which¡¡no¡¡one¡¡can¡¡understand£¿¡¨¡¡Christo
assured¡¡me¡¡that¡¡it¡¡would¡¡have¡¡a¡¡better¡¡effect¡¡if¡¡nobody¡¡could¡¡read¡¡the
contents£»¡¡as¡¡Georgi¡¡could¡¡then¡¡say¡¡anything¡¡he¡¡pleased¡£¡¡I¡¡wrote¡¡an¡¡order
for¡¡the¡¡return¡¡of¡¡the¡¡ox¡¡as¡¡belonging¡¡temporarily¡¡to¡¡me¡¡by¡¡contract£»¡¡and
Georgi¡¡having¡¡wiped¡¡his¡¡eyes£»¡¡immediately¡¡set¡¡off¡¡on¡¡foot¡¡towards
Gallibornu£»¡¡full¡¡of¡¡confidence¡¡and¡¡hope¡£

Theodori¡¡declared¡¡that¡¡it¡¡would¡¡be¡¡impossible¡¡for¡¡his¡¡oxen¡¡to¡¡reach
Trichomo¡¡in¡¡one¡¡day£»¡¡I¡¡therefore¡¡loaded¡¡the¡¡camels£»¡¡and¡¡advised¡¡him¡¡to
await¡¡Georgi's¡¡return£»¡¡should¡¡they¡¡re¡­appear¡¡at¡¡Kuklia£»¡¡where¡¡the¡¡vans
were¡¡lying£»¡¡I¡¡would¡¡re¡­engage¡¡them¡¡as¡¡far¡¡as¡¡Lefkosia£»¡¡and¡¡in¡¡the
meantime¡¡I¡¡would¡¡pay¡¡them¡¡for¡¡the¡¡daily¡¡keep¡¡of¡¡their¡¡animals£»¡¡who¡¡were
to¡¡be¡¡well¡¡fed£»¡¡and¡¡to¡¡discontinue¡¡the¡¡course¡¡of¡¡wild¡¡artichokes¡¡and
thistles¡£

We¡¡took¡¡a¡¡different¡¡route¡¡upon¡¡leaving¡¡Lithrankomi£»¡¡by¡¡keeping¡¡upon¡¡the
high¡¡plateau¡¡instead¡¡of¡¡the¡¡lower¡¡valleys¡¡through¡¡which¡¡we¡¡had¡¡arrived
on¡¡our¡¡way¡¡from¡¡Volokalida¡£¡¡We¡¡accordingly¡¡left¡¡this¡¡village¡¡some¡¡miles
to¡¡the¡¡south£»¡¡but¡¡as¡¡we¡¡were¡¡passing¡¡through¡¡a¡¡broad¡¡cultivated¡¡plain£»¡¡a
portion¡¡of¡¡which¡¡had¡¡recently¡¡been¡¡ploughed£»¡¡we¡¡observed¡¡a¡¡crowd¡¡of
women¡¡and¡¡girls¡¡who¡¡were¡¡engaged¡¡with¡¡baskets¡¡in¡¡collecting¡¡wild
artichokes£»¡¡which¡¡the¡¡plough¡¡had¡¡dislodged¡£¡¡As¡¡we¡¡approached¡¡a¡¡sudden
rush¡¡was¡¡made¡¡in¡¡our¡¡direction£»¡¡the¡¡baskets¡¡were¡¡placed¡¡upon¡¡the¡¡ground£»
and¡¡a¡¡race¡¡took¡¡place¡¡over¡¡the¡¡heavy¡¡soil¡¡to¡¡see¡¡who¡¡would¡¡be¡¡the¡¡first
to¡¡greet¡¡us¡£¡¡We¡¡discovered¡¡that¡¡these¡¡were¡¡our¡¡friends¡¡of¡¡Volokalida£»
who¡¡had¡¡walked¡¡across¡¡the¡¡hills¡¡in¡¡a¡¡large¡¡party¡¡to¡¡collect¡¡wild
vegetables£»¡¡they¡¡seemed¡¡delighted¡¡to¡¡see¡¡us£»¡¡and¡¡insisted¡¡upon¡¡shaking
hands£»¡¡which£»¡¡as¡¡they¡¡had¡¡been¡¡grubbing¡¡in¡¡the¡¡freshly¡­turned¡¡ground£»
was¡¡rather¡¡a¡¡mouldy¡¡operation¡£¡¡We¡¡shook¡¡hands¡¡with¡¡about¡¡thirty¡¡members
of¡¡this¡¡primitive¡¡agricultural¡¡society£»¡¡and¡¡were¡¡glad¡¡to¡¡waive¡¡an¡¡adieu
before¡¡the¡¡arrival¡¡of¡¡the¡¡older¡¡women¡¡in¡¡the¡¡rear£»¡¡who¡¡with¡¡their¡¡heavy
nailed¡¡boots¡¡were¡¡running¡¡towards¡¡us£»¡¡plunging¡¡about¡¡in¡¡the¡¡deep¡¡ground
in¡¡clumsy¡¡attempts¡¡at¡¡juvenile¡¡activity¡£¡¡A¡¡few¡¡of¡¡the¡¡young¡¡women¡¡were
very¡¡pretty£»¡¡but£»¡¡as¡¡usual¡¡in¡¡Cyprus£»¡¡their¡¡figures¡¡were¡¡ungainly£»¡¡and
their¡¡movements£»¡¡hampered¡¡by¡¡baggy¡¡trousers¡¡and¡¡enormous¡¡high¡¡boots£»
were¡¡most¡¡ungraceful¡£

On¡¡arrival¡¡at¡¡Trichomo¡¡we¡¡pitched¡¡our¡¡tent¡¡at¡¡some¡¡distance¡¡from¡¡the
dwelling¡¡in¡¡which¡¡we¡¡had¡¡fed¡¡some¡¡thousand¡¡fleas¡¡upon¡¡our¡¡former¡¡visit£»
and¡¡on¡¡the¡¡following¡¡morning¡¡I¡¡determined¡¡to¡¡go¡¡straight¡¡Famagousta£»
about¡¡twelve¡¡miles¡¡distant¡£

The¡¡route¡¡from¡¡Trichomo¡¡is¡¡for¡¡the¡¡most¡¡part¡¡along¡¡the¡¡seashore£»¡¡but
occasionally¡¡cutting¡¡off¡¡the¡¡bends¡¡by¡¡a¡¡direct¡¡line¡£¡¡The¡¡plain¡¡is¡¡a¡¡dead
level£»¡¡as¡¡it¡¡has¡¡been¡¡entirely¡¡deposited¡¡by¡¡the¡¡floods¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Pedias
river¡£¡¡We¡¡rode¡¡tolerably¡¡fast£»¡¡the¡¡sun¡¡being¡¡hot¡¡and¡¡the¡¡country¡¡most
uninteresting£»¡¡we¡¡had¡¡left¡¡the¡¡shrub¡­covered¡¡surface¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Carpas¡¡with
its¡¡romantic¡¡cliffs¡¡and¡¡deep¡¡valleys¡¡rich¡¡in¡¡verdure£»¡¡and¡¡once¡¡more¡¡we
were¡¡upon¡¡the¡¡hateful¡¡treeless¡¡plain¡¡of¡¡Messaria¡£¡¡During¡¡our¡¡sojourn¡¡in
the¡¡Carpas¡¡district¡¡the¡¡rainfall¡¡by¡¡our¡¡gauge¡¡had¡¡been¡¡1¡£28¡¡inches£»¡¡but
in¡¡this¡¡unattractive¡¡region¡¡there¡¡had¡¡only¡¡been¡¡one¡¡or¡¡two¡¡faint
showers£»¡¡hardly¡¡sufficient¡¡to¡¡lay¡¡the¡¡dust¡£¡¡The¡¡crops¡¡about¡¡five¡¡inches
above¡¡the¡¡ground¡¡were¡¡almost¡¡dead£»¡¡and¡¡the¡¡young¡¡wheat¡¡and¡¡barley¡¡were
completely¡¡withered¡£

About¡¡four¡¡or¡¡five¡¡miles¡¡from¡¡Famagousta¡¡we¡¡arrived¡¡at¡¡the¡¡ruins¡¡of
ancient¡¡Salamis¡£¡¡The¡¡stringent¡¡prohibition¡¡of¡¡the¡¡British¡¡authorities
against¡¡a¡¡search¡¡for¡¡antiquities¡¡in¡¡Cyprus¡¡had¡¡destroyed¡¡the¡¡interest
which¡¡would¡¡oth

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