cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第22节

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Trichomo。　It　was　the　first　and　the　last　venture　upon　native　hospitality
throughout　our　sojourn　in　Cyprus；　and　we　in　future　adhered　either　to　the
tent　or　the　gipsy…van。

On　the　following　morning　we　started　at　8。30。　The　sky　was　overcast；　and
in　any　country　but　this　we　should　have　expected　rain。　We　had　now　fairly
emerged　upon　a　district　entirely　different　from　the　hateful　Messaria；
which　has　given　Cyprus　an　unfortunate　reputation。　We　were　quickly　among
thickets　of　scrub　and　low　brushwood　which　should　have　teemed　with　game。
My　spaniels　delighted　in　the　change；　and　worked　the　bush　thoroughly　as
we　proceeded　along　the　route；　occasionally　flushing　two　or　three
red…legged　partridges。　Passing　over　the　higher　ground　with　the　sea　in
view　upon　our　right；　we　descended　after　a　march　of　about　three　miles　to
the　shore；　where　the　path　skirted　the　sea　along　broken　rocks；　against
which　in　bad　weather　the　waves　would　dash　with　sufficient　violence　to
bar　the　road。　The　white　cliffs　and　hill…tops　to　our　left　were　covered
with　dwarf…cypress；　and　formed　a　lovely　foreground　above　the　sea；
perfectly　calm　beneath。　The　ride　was　apparently　short；　although　we　had
been　in　the　saddle　three　hours；　as　the　eye　had　been　gratified　by　a
constant　change　of　scenery；from　rocks　washed　by　the　blue　water　to
hills　covered　with　a　dense　foliage　of　evergreens；　and　deep　sequestered
valleys；　with　occasional　gaps　in　the　range　of　heights　through　which
glimpses　of　the　sea　in　rocky　coves　burst　suddenly　into　view。　Some　of
these　inlets　were　exceedingly　picturesque；　as　reefs　extended　from　the
shore；　overhanging　cliffs　having　from　time　to　time　fallen　in　huge　crags
and　formed　natural　breakwaters　to　the　beach。　These　narrow　gaps　between
the　hills　were　generally　occupied　by　a　streamlet　in　the　centre；　which
had　cut　its　way　far　below　the　level　of　the　ground；　the　steep　banks　of
which　were　fringed　with　oleanders；　myrtles；　mastic；　and　other
evergreens；　down　to　within　a　few　yards　of　the　breaking　waves。　Nothing
could　be　prettier；　and　upon　arrival　within　sight　of　Volokalida；　about　a
mile　and　a　half　distant　in　the　extreme　end　of　a　narrow　valley；　I
directed　my　wife　to　a　camping…place　near　the　village；　beneath　some　large
and　prominent　caroub…trees；　while　I　dismounted；　and　with　my　delighted
dogs　commenced　a　ramble　over　the　low　woods　which　covered　the　sides　and
hill…tops　to　our　right　and　left。　The　walk　was　enjoyable；　we　had　made
fourteen　miles　from　Trichomo；　and　upon　reaching　the　perfectly　flat
tableland　which　formed　the　summit　of　the　hills　I　had　a　splendid　sea…view
extending　for　many　miles　along　the　coast。　The　first　object　that
attracted　my　attention　was　a　large　steamer　stranded　in　a　cove　about　a
mile　distant。　She　looked　perfectly　snug；　but　as　only　her　lower　masts
were　standing；　and　funnel　gone；　there　could　be　no　doubt　of　her
misadventure。　My　binocular　glass　quickly　showed　that　a　portion　of　her
bulwarks　was　carried　away；　and　as　no　chain　was　visible　to　an　anchor；　she
was　in　fact　a　wreck。　As　I　made　my　way　through　the　thick　bushes　Merry
presently　opened　upon　a　scent；　and　Wise　running　in　among　the　rocks；
flushed　a　fine　francolin　partridge；　which　I　shot。　I　then　got　a　quail　and
a　hare；　and　had　no　other　chances；　although　the　appearance　of　the　country
would　have　suggested　an　abundance　of　game。　Upon　nearing　the　seashore　I
saw　that　extensive　sand…dunes　had　invaded　the　heights　for　many　hundred
yards；　completely　choking　the　vegetation　and　forming　clumps　or　mounds　of
sand；　topped　by　tufts　of　the　shrubs　that　lay　buried　deep　beneath。　I
walked　along　the　fatiguing　ground　until　I　reached　the　shore　exactly
opposite　the　abandoned　wreck；　which　lay　within　a　cove；　into　which　she
had　evidently　been　run　for　security。

My　dogs　found　several　hares　among　the　clumps　upon　the　sand…dunes；　which
gave　them　some　exercise　and　amusement；　but　I　did　not　obtain　a　shot。

Upon　my　arrival　at　the　camping…place　I　found　my　wife　surrounded　by　a
large　crowd　of　women　and　children　beneath　a　shady　tree；　all　of　whom　had
brought　presents　of　eggs　and　bouquets　of　wild　flowers。　It　was　difficult
to　persuade　these　good　simple　people　that　we　did　not　require　presents　as
an　etiquette　of　introduction；　they　would　insist　upon　placing　their
little　offerings　upon　the　ground；　and　leaving　them　if　we　declined　to
accept　them。　The　principal　wild　flowers　were　cyclamen；　narcissus；　and
anemone。　The　cyclamen　completely　covered　the　ground　throughout　all　the
low　woods　and　thickets。　I　could　only　find　two　varieties；　the　snow…white；
with　claret…coloured　centre；　and　the　rose…colour；　but　the　blossoms　were
quite　equal　in　size　to　those　usually　grown　in　our　glass…houses　in
England。　We　had　passed　through　several　hundred　acres　of　open　ground　that
were　as　white　from　the　abundance　of　narcissus　as　an　English　meadow　might
be　yellow　from　the　presence　of　buttercups。

Our　camp　was　pitched　upon　a　small　level　plateau　of　rock；　in　the　centre
of　which　was　a　well；　cut　completely　through　the　stone　from　top　to
bottom。　It　appeared　to　be　about　twenty…five　feet　deep；　but　was　devoid　of
water　and　contained　a　considerable　amount　of　rubbish。　The　people　assured
me　that　a　dead　Greek　lay　beneath；　as　a　few　years　ago　some　Turks　had
killed　one　of　their　people　and　thrown　him　into　the　well；　they　had
concealed　the　body　by　stones　and　rubbish；　and　no　further　steps　had　been
taken　in　the　matter。　As　a　large　crowd　of　children　of　both　sexes　were
sitting　round　us　doing　nothing　but　stare；　I　set　them　to　work　to　clear
the　surface　ground　from　loose　stones　and　to　sweep　the　plateau　clean　with
boughs　from　the　wild　cypress。　When　this　was　finished　I　gave　them　a
scramble　for　several　handfuls　of　copper　coins　upon　the　cleared　area；　to
impress　them　pleasantly　upon　their　work　of　cleanliness；　this　new　game
became　very　popular；　and　might　be　introduced　by　the　British　government
with　a　certainty　of　gaining　the　admiration　of　the　Cypriotes；　especially
during　the　collection　of　taxes；　the　latter　being　an　Anglo…Turkish　game
which　is　not　yet　sufficiently　appreciated。

The　women　were　of　the　same　type　that　we　had　seen　in　other　districts；　but
they　appeared　sickly；　and　many　of　the　children　were　extremely　delicate。
There　was　the　usual　protuberance　of　the　abdomen　to　which　I　have　before
alluded；　and　I　found　upon　examination　of　the　children　that　an
enlargement　of　the　spleen　was　a　chronic　complaint。　This　is　due　to
repeated　attacks　of　ague。　I　drew　the　attention　of　the　people　to　the　so
general　mistake　in　this　island　of　selecting　a　site　for　their　villages　in
the　most　unhealthy　localities。　We　were　now　camped　upon　a　height　about
eighty　feet　above　the　valley；　which　resembled　a　basin　beneath　our　feet；
the　village　was　on　the　lower　level　of　this　basin；　and　as　near　the　level
of　the　sea　as　possible。　In　heavy　rains　the　valley　became　a　temporary
swamp；　and　it　seemed　unaccountable　that　human　beings　endowed　with　common
sense　should　have　selected　the　low　ground　instead　of　the　immediate
heights。　The　explanation　was　〃that　as　the　village　was　built　of
mud…bricks；　the　houses　had　been　erected　as　near　as　possible　to　the
source　of　the　material；　MUD！〃　to　avoid　the　difficulty　of　carriage　in　the
absence　of　carts。

The　people　were　as　usual　dressed　in　cotton　stuffs　of　home　manufacture；
and　were　ignorant　of　such　a　material　as　flannel；　the　children　were　only
half…clad；　and　shivering；　their　food　was　generally　raw；　comprising
olives；　oil；　onions；　and　wild　vegetables；　such　as　artichokes；　wild
mustard；　and　a　variety　of　trash　that　in　England　would　only　be　regarded
as　〃weeds。〃　There　were　some　pretty　intelligent　little　girls　and　boys；
some　of　these　were　chewing　mastic　gum；　a　white　leathery　substance　which
they　gathered　from　incisions　in　the　bark　of　this　common　shrub。　My　wife
found　fault　with　the　neglect　of　cleanliness；　as　their　teeth；　although
even；　were　totally　uncared　for。　On　the　following　morning　they　all
assembled　and　exhibited　a　show　of　nice　white　teeth；　as　they　had　followed
her　advice　and　cleaned　them　with　wood…ashes　and　their　forefingers；　in
lieu　of　a　toothbrush。　We　saw　these　children　again　a　month　afterwards
upon　our　return；　and　they　ran　across　the　fields　to　meet　us；　at　once
opening　their　mouths　to　show　that　they　had　not　forgotten　the　lesson；　and
that　their　teeth　were　properly　attended　to。　I　pitied　all　these　poor
people：　they　are　downtrodden　and　miserable　in　mind　and　body。　Instead　of
squeezing　them　for　taxes　they　should　be　supported　and　encouraged　by
government　assistance　in　every　manner　possible。　Centuries　of　oppression
and　neglect　in　addition　to　a　deceptive　climate　have　rendered　them　the
mere　slaves　of　circumstances；　but　they　exhibit　a　patience　and　stolid
endurance　which　is　beyond　all　praise；　and　when　Cyprus　shall　belong
absolutely　to　Great　Britain；　so　that　the　Cypriotes　shall　feel　that　they
are　British　subjects；　they　will　become　the　most　amenable　and　contented
people　in　the　Empire。

The　usual　difficulty　exists　in　passing　through　this　island　which　is　felt
by　most　English　travellers　in　wild　countries。　The　sick　invariably
assemble；　believing　that　your　medical　knowledge　will　produce　miraculous
cures；　and　the　lame；　halt；　and　blind　besiege　you　even　cripples　from
their　birth　are　brought　by　their　hopeful　mothers　to　receive　something
from　your　medicine…chest　that