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manufacture¡¡of¡¡their¡¡celebrated¡¡bronze¡£

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ancient¡¡Chittim£©£»¡¡was¡¡probably¡¡a¡¡species¡¡of¡¡cypress¡¡at¡¡that¡¡time
composing¡¡the¡¡forests¡¡which¡¡ornamented¡¡a¡¡considerable¡¡portion¡¡of¡¡the
surface¡£¡¡There¡¡are¡¡two¡¡varieties¡¡of¡¡cypress¡¡in¡¡the¡¡island£º¡¡that¡¡which
would¡¡have¡¡been¡¡celebrated¡¡grows¡¡upon¡¡the¡¡high¡¡mountains£»¡¡and¡¡attains¡¡a
girth¡¡of¡¡from¡¡seven¡¡to¡¡nine¡¡feet£»¡¡the¡¡wood¡¡being¡¡highly¡¡aromatic£»
emitting¡¡a¡¡perfume¡¡resembling¡¡a¡¡mixture¡¡of¡¡sandal¡­wood¡¡and¡¡cedar£»¡¡the
other¡¡cypress¡¡is¡¡a¡¡dwarf¡¡variety¡¡that¡¡seldom¡¡exceeds¡¡twenty¡¡feet¡¡in
height£»¡¡with¡¡a¡¡maximum¡¡circumference¡¡of¡¡two¡¡feet£»¡¡this¡¡is¡¡a¡¡totally
different¡¡wood£»¡¡and¡¡is¡¡intensely¡¡hard£»¡¡while¡¡the¡¡former¡¡is¡¡easily
worked£»¡¡but¡¡durable¡£¡¡The¡¡derivation¡¡of¡¡the¡¡name¡¡Cyprus¡¡has¡¡been¡¡sought
for¡¡from¡¡many¡¡sources£»¡¡and¡¡the¡¡opinions¡¡of¡¡the¡¡authorities¡¡differ¡£
English¡¡people¡¡may¡¡reflect¡¡that¡¡they¡¡alone¡¡spell¡¡and¡¡pronounce¡¡the¡¡word
as¡¡¡¨Cyprus¡£¡¨¡¡The¡¡name¡¡of¡¡the¡¡cypress¡­tree£»¡¡which¡¡at¡¡one¡¡time¡¡clothed¡¡the
mountains¡¡of¡¡this¡¡formerly¡¡verdant¡¡island£»¡¡is¡¡pronounced¡¡by¡¡the
inhabitants¡¡¡¨Kypresses£»¡¨¡¡which¡¡approximates¡¡closely¡¡to¡¡the¡¡various
appellations¡¡of¡¡Cyprus¡¡in¡¡different¡¡languages¡£¡¡The¡¡Greek¡¡name¡¡is¡¡Kypros£»
and¡¡it¡¡is¡¡probable¡¡that¡¡as¡¡in¡¡ancient¡¡days¡¡the¡¡¡¨chittim¡­wood¡¨¡¡was¡¡so
called¡¡from¡¡the¡¡fact¡¡of¡¡its¡¡export¡¡from¡¡Chittim£»¡¡the¡¡same¡¡link¡¡may
remain¡¡unbroken¡¡between¡¡Kypros¡¡and¡¡the¡¡tree¡¡Kypresses¡£

The¡¡geographical¡¡advantages¡¡which¡¡I¡¡have¡¡enumerated¡¡are¡¡sufficient¡¡to
explain¡¡the¡¡series¡¡of¡¡struggles¡¡for¡¡possession¡¡to¡¡which¡¡the¡¡island¡¡has
been¡¡exposed¡¡throughout¡¡its¡¡history£»¡¡the¡¡tombs¡¡that¡¡have¡¡been¡¡examined£»
have¡¡revealed¡¡the¡¡secrets¡¡of¡¡the¡¡dead£»¡¡and¡¡in¡¡the¡¡relics¡¡of¡¡Phoenicians£»
Persians£»¡¡Assyrians£»¡¡Egyptians£»¡¡and¡¡the¡¡long¡¡list¡¡of¡¡foreign¡¡victors£»¡¡we
discover¡¡proofs¡¡of¡¡the¡¡important¡¡past£»¡¡until¡¡we¡¡at¡¡length¡¡tread¡¡upon
pre¡­historical¡¡vestiges£»¡¡and¡¡become¡¡lost¡¡in¡¡a¡¡labyrinth¡¡of¡¡legends¡£¡¡From
the¡¡researches¡¡of¡¡undoubted¡¡authorities£»¡¡we¡¡know¡¡that¡¡Cyprus¡¡possessed¡¡a
written¡¡character¡¡peculiarly¡¡original£»¡¡and¡¡that¡¡it¡¡was¡¡occupied¡¡by¡¡a
people¡¡highly¡¡civilised¡¡according¡¡to¡¡the¡¡standard¡¡of¡¡the¡¡early¡¡world¡¡at
so¡¡primitive¡¡an¡¡era£»¡¡that¡¡all¡¡records¡¡have¡¡disappeared£»¡¡and¡¡we¡¡are¡¡left
in¡¡the¡¡darkness¡¡of¡¡conjecture¡£

The¡¡changes¡¡in¡¡the¡¡importance¡¡of¡¡certain¡¡geographical¡¡positions£»¡¡owing
to¡¡the¡¡decline¡¡and¡¡fall¡¡of¡¡empires£»¡¡which¡¡at¡¡one¡¡time¡¡governed¡¡the
destinies¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Eastern¡¡world£»¡¡have¡¡been¡¡strikingly¡¡exhibited¡¡on¡¡the
shores¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Mediterranean£»¡¡Tyre£»¡¡Sidon£»¡¡Carthage£»¡¡Cyprus£»¡¡had¡¡lost
their¡¡significance¡¡upon¡¡modern¡¡charts£»¡¡even¡¡before¡¡the¡¡New¡¡Worlds
appeared£»¡¡when¡¡America£»¡¡Australia£»¡¡and¡¡the¡¡Eastern¡¡Archipelago¡¡were
introduced¡¡upon¡¡the¡¡globe¡£¡¡The¡¡progress¡¡of¡¡Western¡¡Europe¡¡eclipsed¡¡the
Oriental¡¡Powers¡¡which¡¡hitherto¡¡represented¡¡the¡¡civilisation¡¡of¡¡mankind£»
and¡¡two¡¡points¡¡alone¡¡remained£»¡¡which£»¡¡shorn¡¡of¡¡their¡¡ancient¡¡glory£»
still¡¡maintained¡¡their¡¡original¡¡importance¡¡as¡¡geographical¡¡centres£»¡¡that
will¡¡renew¡¡those¡¡struggles¡¡for¡¡their¡¡possession¡¡which¡¡fill¡¡the¡¡bloody
pages¡¡of¡¡their¡¡historyEgypt¡¡and¡¡Constantinople¡£

No¡¡country¡¡had¡¡been¡¡more¡¡completely¡¡excluded¡¡from¡¡the¡¡beaten¡¡paths¡¡of
British¡¡travellers¡¡than¡¡the¡¡island¡¡of¡¡Cyprus£»¡¡and¡¡England¡¡was¡¡startled
by¡¡the¡¡sudden¡¡revelation¡¡of¡¡a¡¡mystery¡¡connected¡¡with¡¡the¡¡Treaty¡¡of
Berlin£»¡¡that¡¡it¡¡was¡¡to¡¡become¡¡a¡¡strategical¡¡point¡¡for¡¡a¡¡British¡¡military
occupation£¡

On¡¡the¡¡4th¡¡June£»¡¡1878£»¡¡a¡¡¡¨Convention¡¡of¡¡Defensive¡¡Alliance¡¡between¡¡Great
Britain¡¡and¡¡Turkey¡¨¡¡was¡¡signed£»¡¡which¡¡agreed¡¡upon¡¡the¡¡following
articles£º¡­

¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡ARTICLE¡¡I¡£

¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¨If¡¡Batoum£»¡¡Ardahan£»¡¡Kars£»¡¡or¡¡any¡¡of¡¡them£»¡¡shall¡¡be
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡retained¡¡by¡¡Russia£»¡¡or¡¡if¡¡any¡¡attempt¡¡shall¡¡be¡¡made¡¡at
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡any¡¡future¡¡time¡¡by¡¡Russia¡¡to¡¡take¡¡possession¡¡of¡¡any
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡further¡¡territories¡¡of¡¡His¡¡Imperial¡¡Majesty¡¡the¡¡Sultan
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡in¡¡Asia£»¡¡as¡¡fixed¡¡by¡¡the¡¡definitive¡¡treaty¡¡of¡¡peace£»
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡England¡¡engages¡¡to¡¡join¡¡His¡¡Imperial¡¡Majesty¡¡the¡¡Sultan
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡in¡¡defending¡¡them¡¡by¡¡force¡¡of¡¡Arms¡£

¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¨In¡¡return£»¡¡His¡¡Imperial¡¡Majesty¡¡the¡¡Sultan¡¡promises¡¡to
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡England¡¡to¡¡introduce¡¡necessary¡¡reforms£»¡¡to¡¡be¡¡agreed
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡upon¡¡later¡¡between¡¡the¡¡two¡¡Powers£»¡¡into¡¡the¡¡government£»
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡and¡¡for¡¡the¡¡protection¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Christian¡¡and¡¡other
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡subjects¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Porte¡¡in¡¡those¡¡territories£»¡¡and¡¡in
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡order¡¡to¡¡enable¡¡England¡¡to¡¡make¡¡necessary¡¡provision¡¡for
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡executing¡¡her¡¡engagement£»¡¡His¡¡Imperial¡¡Majesty¡¡the
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡Sultan¡¡further¡¡consents¡¡to¡¡assign¡¡the¡¡island¡¡of¡¡Cyprus
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡to¡¡be¡¡occupied¡¡and¡¡administered¡¡by¡¡England¡£

¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡ARTICLE¡¡II¡£

¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¨The¡¡present¡¡Convention¡¡shall¡¡be¡¡ratified£»¡¡and¡¡the
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡ratifications¡¡thereof¡¡shall¡¡be¡¡exchanged£»¡¡within¡¡the
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡space¡¡of¡¡one¡¡month£»¡¡or¡¡sooner¡¡if¡¡possible¡£

¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¨In¡¡witness¡¡whereof¡¡the¡¡respective¡¡Plenipotentiaries
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡have¡¡signed¡¡the¡¡same£»¡¡and¡¡have¡¡affixed¡¡thereto¡¡the¡¡seal
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡of¡¡their¡¡arms¡£

¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¨Done¡¡at¡¡Constantinople£»¡¡the¡¡fourth¡¡day¡¡of¡¡June£»¡¡in¡¡the
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡year¡¡one¡¡thousand¡¡eight¡¡hundred¡¡and¡¡seventy¡­eight¡£

¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¨A¡£H¡£¡¡LAYARD¡£

¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¨SAFVET¡£¡¨

It¡¡was¡¡eventually¡¡agreed¡¡between¡¡the¡¡contracting¡¡Powers£º¡­

¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¨That¡¡England¡¡will¡¡pay¡¡to¡¡the¡¡Porte¡¡whatever¡¡is¡¡the
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡present¡¡excess¡¡of¡¡revenue¡¡over¡¡expenditure¡¡in¡¡the
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡island£»¡¡this¡¡excess¡¡to¡¡be¡¡calculated¡¡and¡¡determined¡¡by
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡the¡¡average¡¡of¡¡the¡¡last¡¡five¡¡years¡£¡¨

and£º

¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¨That¡¡if¡¡Russia¡¡restores¡¡to¡¡Turkey¡¡Kars¡¡and¡¡the¡¡other
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡conquests¡¡made¡¡by¡¡her¡¡in¡¡Armenia¡¡during¡¡the¡¡last¡¡war£»
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡the¡¡island¡¡of¡¡Cyprus¡¡will¡¡be¡¡evacuated¡¡by¡¡England£»¡¡and
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡the¡¡Convention¡¡of¡¡the¡¡fourth¡¡June£»¡¡1878£»¡¡will¡¡be¡¡at¡¡an
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡end¡£¡¨

I¡¡knew¡¡nothing¡¡of¡¡Cyprus£»¡¡but¡¡I¡¡felt¡¡sure¡¡that¡¡the¡¡Turks¡¡had¡¡the¡¡best¡¡of
the¡¡bargain£»¡¡as¡¡they¡¡would¡¡receive¡¡the¡¡usual¡¡surplus¡¡revenue¡¡from¡¡our
hands£»¡¡and¡¡be¡¡saved¡¡the¡¡trouble¡¡and¡¡onus¡¡of¡¡the¡¡collection£»¡¡they¡¡would
also¡¡be¡¡certain¡¡of¡¡a¡¡fixed¡¡annual¡¡sum£»¡¡without¡¡any¡¡of¡¡those¡¡risks¡¡of
droughts£»¡¡famine£»¡¡and¡¡locusts£»¡¡to¡¡which¡¡the¡¡island¡¡is¡¡exposed£»¡¡and¡¡which
seriously¡¡affect¡¡the¡¡income¡£

Although¡¡there¡¡would¡¡only¡¡be¡¡a¡¡wildly¡¡remote¡¡chance¡¡of¡¡Russia¡¡ever
relinquishing¡¡her¡¡Asiatic¡¡prey£»¡¡the¡¡bare¡¡mention¡¡of¡¡the¡¡words¡¡¡¨will¡¡be
evacuated¡¡by¡¡England¡¨¡¡was¡¡a¡¡possible¡¡contingency¡¡and¡¡risk£»¡¡that¡¡would
effectually¡¡exclude¡¡all¡¡British¡¡capital¡¡from¡¡investment¡¡in¡¡the¡¡island¡£¡¡I
could¡¡not¡¡discover¡¡any¡¡possible¡¡good¡¡that¡¡could¡¡accrue¡¡to¡¡England¡¡by¡¡the
terms¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Convention¡£¡¡If¡¡Cyprus¡¡had¡¡been¡¡presented¡¡as¡¡a¡¡¡¨bonus¡¨¡¡by
the¡¡Porte¡¡to¡¡counterbalance¡¡the¡¡risk¡¡we¡¡should¡¡incur¡¡in¡¡a¡¡defensive
alliance¡¡for¡¡the¡¡protection¡¡of¡¡Asia¡¡Minor£»¡¡I¡¡could¡¡have¡¡seen¡¡an¡¡addition
to¡¡our¡¡Colonial¡¡Empire¡¡of¡¡a¡¡valuable¡¡island£»¡¡that¡¡would¡¡not¡¡only¡¡have
been¡¡of¡¡strategical¡¡value£»¡¡but¡¡such¡¡that¡¡in¡¡a¡¡few¡¡years£»¡¡money¡¡and
British¡¡settlers¡¡would¡¡have¡¡entirely¡¡changed¡¡its¡¡present¡¡aspect£»¡¡and
have¡¡created¡¡for¡¡it¡¡a¡¡new¡¡era¡¡of¡¡prosperity¡£

If¡¡England¡¡had¡¡purchased¡¡Cyprus£»¡¡I¡¡could¡¡have¡¡understood¡¡the¡¡plain£»
straightforward£»¡¡business¡­like¡¡transaction£»¡¡which¡¡would¡¡have¡¡at¡¡once
established¡¡confidence£»¡¡both¡¡among¡¡the¡¡inhabitants£»¡¡who¡¡would¡¡have
become¡¡British¡¡subjects£»¡¡and¡¡through¡¡the¡¡outer¡¡world£»¡¡that¡¡would¡¡have
acknowledged¡¡the¡¡commencement¡¡of¡¡a¡¡great¡¡future¡£

But£»¡¡if¡¡we¡¡were¡¡actually¡¡bound¡¡in¡¡defensive¡¡alliance¡¡with¡¡Turkey¡¡in¡¡case
of¡¡a¡¡war¡¡with¡¡Russia£»¡¡why¡¡should¡¡we¡¡occupy¡¡Cyprus¡¡upon¡¡such¡¡one¡­sided
and¡¡anomalous¡¡conditions£»¡¡that¡¡would¡¡frustrate¡¡all¡¡hopes¡¡of¡¡commercial
development£»¡¡for¡¡the¡¡sake¡¡of¡¡obtaining¡¡a¡¡strategical¡¡position¡¡that¡¡would
have¡¡been¡¡opened¡¡to¡¡our¡¡occupation¡¡AS¡¡AN¡¡ALLY¡¡at¡¡any¡¡moment£¿¡¡On¡¡the
other¡¡hand£»¡¡if¡¡we¡¡distrusted¡¡Turkey£»¡¡and¡¡feared¡¡that¡¡she¡¡might¡¡coquet
with¡¡Russia¡¡at¡¡some¡¡future¡¡period£»¡¡I¡¡could¡¡see¡¡a¡¡paramount¡¡necessity¡¡for
the¡¡occupation¡¡of¡¡Cyprus£»¡¡and¡¡even¡¡Egypt£»¡¡but¡¡we¡¡were¡¡supposed¡¡to¡¡be£»
and¡¡I¡¡believe¡¡were£»¡¡acting¡¡in¡¡absolute¡¡and¡¡mutual¡¡good¡¡faith¡¡as¡¡the
protector¡¡of¡¡Asiatic¡¡Turkey£»¡¡in¡¡defensive¡¡alliance¡¡with¡¡the¡¡Sultan¡£¡¡In
that¡¡position£»¡¡should¡¡we¡¡have¡¡entered¡¡into¡¡a¡¡war¡¡with¡¡Russia£»¡¡there¡¡was
no¡¡necessity¡¡for¡¡the¡¡occupation¡¡and¡¡responsibility¡¡of¡¡any¡¡new¡¡position£»
as¡¡every¡¡port¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Ottoman¡¡dominions£»¡¡even¡¡to¡¡the¡¡Golden¡¡Horn¡¡of
Constantinople£»¡¡would¡¡have¡¡welcomed¡¡our¡¡troops¡¡and¡¡boats¡¡with
enthusiasm¡£

Turkey¡¡is¡¡a¡¡suspicious¡¡Power£»¡¡and¡¡the¡¡British¡¡government¡¡may¡¡have¡¡had¡¡to
contend¡¡with¡¡difficulties¡¡that¡¡are¡¡unknown¡¡to¡¡the¡¡criticising¡¡public£»¡¡it
may¡¡have¡¡been¡¡impossible¡¡to¡¡have¡¡obtained¡¡her¡¡sanction¡¡for¡¡the
occupation¡¡under¡¡other¡¡conditions¡£¡¡The¡¡possibility¡¡of¡¡future
complications¡¡that¡¡might¡¡terminate¡¡in¡¡a¡¡close¡¡alliance¡¡between¡¡the
conquered¡¡and¡¡the¡¡victor£»¡¡may¡¡have¡¡suggested¡¡the¡¡necessity¡¡for¡¡securing
this¡¡most¡¡important¡¡strategical¡¡position¡¡without¡¡delay£»¡¡upon¡¡first
conditions¡¡that¡¡might¡¡subsequently¡¡receive¡¡modifications¡£¡¡At¡¡first¡¡sight
the¡¡political¡¡situation¡¡appeared¡¡vague£»¡¡but¡¡I¡¡determined¡¡to¡¡examine¡¡the
physical¡¡geography¡¡of¡¡Cyprus£»¡¡and¡¡to¡¡form¡¡my¡¡own¡¡opinion¡¡of¡¡its
capabilities¡£








CYPRUS¡¡AS¡¡I¡¡SAW¡¡IT¡¡IN¡¡1879¡£




CHAPTER¡¡1¡£

ARRIVAL¡¡AT¡¡LARNACA¡£

On¡¡the¡¡morning¡¡of¡¡the¡¡4th¡¡January¡¡we¡¡sighted¡¡Cyprus¡¡at¡¡about¡¡fifty¡¡miles
distance£»¡¡after¡¡a¡¡smooth¡¡voyage¡¡of¡¡twenty¡­six¡¡hours¡¡from¡¡Alexandria¡£¡¡The
day¡¡was¡¡favourable¡¡for¡¡an¡¡arrival£»¡¡as¡¡the¡¡atmospherical¡¡condition
afforded¡¡both¡¡intense¡¡lights¡¡and¡¡shadows¡£¡¡The¡¡sky¡¡was¡¡a¡¡cobalt¡¡blue£»¡¡but
upon¡¡all¡¡points¡¡of¡¡the¡¡compass¡¡local¡¡rain¡­clouds¡¡hovered¡¡in¡¡dark¡¡patches
near¡¡the¡¡surface£»¡¡and¡¡emptied¡¡themselves¡¡in¡¡heavy¡¡showers¡£¡¡The¡¡air¡¡was
extremely¡¡clear£»¡¡and¡¡as¡¡we¡¡steamed

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