cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第13节

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would　delay　us　between　Dali　and　the　high　road　from　Larnaca　to　Lefkosia；
which　we　should　intersect　about　half…way　between　the　two　termini。
Instead　of　this；　after　travelling　for　a　couple　of　miles　along　a　good
hardened　track；　we　arrived　at　a　series　of　trenches　which　effectually
stopped　all　progress。　Each　van　had　a　pickaxe　and　shovel；　therefore　we
all　set　to　work　in　rapid　relief　of　each　other　to　level　the　obstructions；
and　by　this　hard　exercise　the　thermometer　appeared　to　rise　quickly　from
the　low　temperature　of　the　morning。　The　oxen　were　good；　and　by　dint　of
our　united　exertions　in　heaving　the　wheels　and　pushing　behind；　we
dragged　the　vans　through　the　soft　ground　that　had　filled　the　ditches；
and　then　slowly　travelled　across　ploughed　fields　and　alternate　plains　of
a　hard　surface　covered　with　abominable　thistles。

We　passed　on　our　left　a　large　farm　that　exhibited　a　wonderful　contrast
to　the　general　barrenness　of　the　country。　The　fields　were　green　with
young　wheat　and　barley；　and　numerous　sakyeeahs　or　cattle…wheels　for
raising　water　supplied　the　means　of　unfailing　irrigation。　I　believe　this
property　belonged　to　Mr。　Mattei；　and　there　could　be　no　stronger　example
of　the　power　that　should　be　developed　throughout　this　island　to　render
it　independent　of　precarious　seasons。　It　is　a　simple　question　of　a　first
outlay　that　is　absolutely　necessary　to　ensure　the　crops。　Throughout　the
barren　plain　of　Messaria　water　exists　in　unfailing　quantity　within　a　few
yards　of　the　parched　surfacethus　at　the　same　time　that　the　crops　are
perishing　from　the　want　of　rain；　the　roots　are　actually　within　a　few
feet　of　the　desired　supply。　The　cattle…wheels　of　Cyprus　are　very
inferior　to　the　sakyeeah　of　Egypt；　but　are　arranged　upon　a　similar
principle；　by　a　chain　of　earthenware　pots　or　jars　upon　a　rope　and　wheel；
which；　revolving　above　a　deep　cistern；　ascend　from　the　depth　below；　and
deliver　the　water　into　a　trough　or　reservoir　upon　the　surface。　From　the
general　reservoir　small　watercourses　conduct　the　stream　to　any　spot
desired。　This　is　the　most　ancient　system　of　artificial　irrigation　by
machinery；　and　it　is　better　adapted　for　the　requirements　of　this　country
than　any　expensive　European　inventions。　As　I　shall　devote　a　chapter
specially　to　the　all…important　question　of　irrigation；　I　shall　postpone
further　remarks　upon　the　cattle…wheel；　but　the　farm　in　question　which
formed　a　solitary　green　oasis　in　the　vast　expanse　of　withered　surface
was　a　sufficient　example　of　the　necessity；　and　of　the　fruitful　result　of
this　simple　and　inexpensive　method。　It　is　a　mere　question　of　outlay；　and
the　government　must　assist　the　cultivators　by　loans　for　the　special
erection　of　water…wheels。　But　of　this　more　hereafter。

At　about　six　miles　from　Dali　we　struck　the　road　between　Larnaca　and
Lefkosia　（or　Nicosia）。　The　newly…established　mail…coach　with　four　horses
passed　us；　with　only　one　passenger。　We　met　it　again　on　the　following
day；　with　a　solitary　unit；　and　it　appeared　that　the　four　horses　on　many
occasions　had　no　other　weight　behind　them　than　the　driver　and　the
letters。　With　this　instance　of　inertia　before　their　eyes；　certain
lunatics　（or　WISE　CONTRACTORS）　suggested　the　necessity　of　a　railway　for
twenty…eight　miles　to　connect　the　two　capitals！　The　mail　had　an
ephemeral　existence；　and　after　running　fruitlessly　to　and　fro　for　a　few
months；　it　withdrew　altogether；　leaving　an　abundant　space　in　Cyprus　for
my　two　vans；　without　the　slightest　chance　of　a　collision　upon　the　new
highway；　as　there　were　no　other　carriages　on　the　roads；　excepting　the
few　native　two…wheeled　carts。

We　halted　five　miles　from　Lefkosia；　where　a　new　stone　bridge　was　in
process　of　construction　and　was　nearly　completed。　We　had　already　passed
a　long　and　extremely　narrow　Turkish　bridge　across　the　river　about　four
miles　in　our　rear。　By　pacing　I　made　the　new　bridge　twenty…nine　feet；　the
same　width　as　the　road；　and　I　could　not　help　thinking　that　a　much　less
expensive　commencement　would　have　been　sufficient　to　meet　the
requirements　of　the　country。　In　Cyprus　the　rainfall　is　generally　slight
and　the　earth　is　tenacious；　and　in　dry　weather　exceedingly　hard；　if　half
the　width　of　the　road　had　been　carefully　metalled　in　the　first　instance；
a　great　expense　would　have　been　saved　at　a　time　when　the　island　was
sadly　in　want　of　money；　the　natural　surface　of　the　firm　soil　would　have
been　preferred　by　all　vehicles　except　during　rain；　when　they　would　have
adopted　the　metalled　parallel　way。　It　is　easy　to　criticise　after　the
event；　and　there　can　be　no　doubt　that　upon　our　first　occupation　of　the
island　a　much　greater　traffic　was　expected；　and　the　road　between　the　two
capitals　was　arranged　accordingly。　We　halted　for　the　night　at　the　new
stone　bridge；　which；　as　usual　in　Cyprus；　spanned　a　channel　perfectly
devoid　of　water。　On　the　following　morning　we　marched　to　Lefkosia；　and
passing　to　the　left　of　the　walled　town；　we　reached　the　newly…erected
Government　House；　about　a　mile　and　a　half　distant；　where　we　received　a
kind　and　hospitable　welcome　from　the　High　Commissioner；　Sir　Garnet；　and
Lady　Wolseley。

The　position　of　the　new　Government　House　was　well　chosen。　The　character
of　the　dreary　plain　of　Messaria　is　the　same　throughout；　flat
table…topped　hills　of　sedimentary　calcareous　limestone；　abounding　with
fossil　shells；　represent　the　ancient　sea…bottom；　which　has　been
upheaved。　The　surface　of　these　table…heights　is　hard　for　a　depth　of
about　six　feet；　forming　an　upper　stratum　of　rock　which　can　be　used　for
building；　beneath　this　are　marls　and　friable　cretaceous　stone；　which
during　rains　are　washed　away。　The　continual　process　of　undermining　by
the　decay　of　the　lower　strata　has　caused　periodical　disruption　of　the
hard　upper　stratum；　which　has　fallen　off　in　huge　blocks　and　rolled　down
the　rough　inclines　that　form　the　sides。　As　the　water　during　heavy　rains
percolates　through　the　crevices　of　the　upper　stratum；　it　dissolves　the
softer　material　beneath；　and　oozing　through　the　steep　inclination；
carries　large　quantities　in　solution　to　the　lower　level　and　deposits
this　fertilising　marl　upon　the　plain　below。　In　this　manner　the　low
ground　of　the　rich　but　dreary　Messaria　has　been　formed　through　the　decay
and　denudation　of　the　higher　levels；　and　the　process　will　continue　until
the　present　table…topped　hills　shall　be　entirely　washed　away。　The　stone
of　the　upper　surface；　which　forms　a　hard　crust　to　the　friable　strata
beneath；　is　in　many　places　merely　the　roof　of　caverns　which　have　been
hollowed　out　by　the　action　of　water　as　described。

The　Government　House　was　erected　upon　one　of　these　flat…topped　hills　in
a　direct　line　about　1900　yards　from　the　nearest　portion　of　Lefkosia。　It
was　a　wooden　construction　forming　three　sides　of　a　quadrangle。　The
quarters　for　the　military　staff　were　wooden　huts；　and　the　line　of
heights　thus　occupied　could　not　fail　to　attract　the　eye　of　a　soldier　as
a　splendid　strategical　position；　completely　commanding　Lefkosia　and　the
surrounding　country。　From　this　point　an　admirable　view　was　presented
upon　all　sides。　The　river　Pedias　（the　largest　in　Cyprus）；　when　it
possessed　water；　would　flow　for　about　270　degrees　of　a　circle　around　the
base　of　the　position；　the　sides　of　the　hill　rising　abruptly　from　the
stream。　The　dry　shingly　bed　was　about　120　yards　in　width；　and　although
destitute　of　water　at　this　point；　sufficient　was　obtained　some　miles
higher　up　the　river　to　irrigate　a　portion　of　the　magnificent　plain　which
bordered　either　side。　Sir　Garnet　Wolseley　was　endeavouring　to　put　a　new
face　on　the　treeless　surface；　and　had　already　planted　several　acres　of
the　Eucalyptus　globulus　and　other　varieties　on　the　lower　ground；　while
date…palms　of　full　growth　had　been　conveyed　bodily　to　the　natural
terrace　around　the　Government　House　and　carefully　transplanted　into
pits。　This　change　was　a　considerable　relief　to　the　eye；　and　the　trees；
if　well　supplied　with　water；　will　in　a　few　years　create　a　grove　where
all　was　barrenness。

The　view　from　each　portion　of　the　terrace　is　exceedingly　interesting；　as
it　commands　a　panorama　for　a　distance　of　nearly　thirty　miles。　On　the
north　is　the　range　of　mountains；　about　twelve　miles　distant；　which　form
the　backbone　of　Cyprus；　and　run　from　east　to　west；　attaining　the　height
of　3400　feet。　This　is　a　peculiar　geological　feature　in　the　island；　as　it
is　the　only　instance　of　compact　（or　jurassic）　limestone。　Through　my
powerful　astronomical　telescope　I　could　plainly　distinguish　every　rock；
and　the　Castle　of　Buffavento　upon　the　summit　of　the　perpendicular　crags
afforded　an　interesting　object；　although　invisible　to　the　naked　eye。　The
south　and　east　presented　a　miserable　aspect　in　the　brown　desert…like
plain　of　Messaria；　broken　by　the　numerous　flat…topped　hills　to　which　I
have　already　alluded。　On　the　west　the　important　mountain…range　which
includes　Troodos　bounded　the　view　by　the　snow…capped　heights　of　the
ancient　Mount　Olympus；　between　which　several　chains　of　lower　hills
formed　a　dark　base　of　plutonic　rocks；　which　contrasted　with　the　painful
glare　of　the　immediate　foreground。　The　highest　points　of　this　range　are
Troodos；　6590　feet；　Adelphe；　5380　feet；　Makhera；　4730　feet。　These　are
the　measurements　as　they　appear　upon　the