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represented as if it were the deliberate greed of the British
state。  This certainly contributed very much to fortify Italy's
disinclination to slam the door on the German connection。

I did my best to make it clear to my two friends that so far from
England exploiting Italy; I myself suffered in exactly the same
way as any Italian; through the extraordinary liberties of our
shipping interest。  〃I pay as well as you do;〃 I said; 〃the
shippers' blockade of Great Britain is more effective than the
submarines'。  My food; my coal; my petrol are all restricted in
the sacred name of private property。  You see; capital in England
has hitherto been not an exploitation but a hold…up。  We are
learning differently now。。。。  And anyhow; Mr。 Runciman has been
here and given Italy assurances。。。。〃

In the train to Modane this old story recurred again。  It is
imperative that English readers should understand clearly how
thoroughly these little matters have been /worked/ by the
enemy。

Some slight civilities led to a conversation that revealed the
Italian lady in the corner as an Irishwoman married to an
Italian; and also brought out the latent English of a very
charming elderly lady opposite to her。  She had heard a speech; a
wonderful speech from a railway train; by 〃the Lord Runciman。〃  He
had said the most beautiful things about Italy。

I did my best to echo these beautiful things。

Then the Irishwoman remarked that Mr。 Runciman had not satisfied
everybody。  She and her husband had met a ministerI found
afterwards he was one of the members of the late Giolotti
governmentwho had been talking very loudly and scornfully of
the bargain Italy was making with England。  I assured her that
the desire of England was simply to give Italy all that she
needed。

〃But;〃 said the husband casually; 〃Mr。 Runciman is a shipowner。〃

I explained that he was nothing of the sort。  It was true that he
came of a shipowning familyand perhaps inherited a slight
tendency to see things from a shipowning point of viewbut in
England we did not suspect a man on such a score as that。

〃In Italy I think we should;〃 said the husband of the Irish
lady。


4

This incidental discussion is a necessary part of my impression
of Italy at war。  The two western allies and Great Britain in
particular have to remember Italy's economic needs; and to
prepare to rescue them from the blind exploitation of private
profit。  They have to remember these needs too; because; if they
are left out of the picture; then it becomes impossible to
understand the full measure of the risk Italy has faced in
undertaking this war for an idea。  With a Latin lucidity she has
counted every risk; and with a Latin idealism she has taken her
place by the side of those who fight for a liberal civilisation
against a Byzantine imperialism。

As I came out of the brightly lit Galleria Vittorio Emanuele into
the darkened Piazza del Duomo I stopped under the arcade and
stood looking up at the shadowy darkness of that great pinnacled
barn; that marble bride…cake; which is; I suppose; the last
southward fortress of the Franco…English Gothic。

〃It was here;〃 said my host; 〃that we burnt the German stuff。〃

〃What German stuff?〃

〃Pianos and all sorts of things。  From the shops。  It is
possible; you know; to buy things too cheaplyand to give too
much for the cheapness。〃



THE WESTERN WAR (SEPTEMBER; 1916)


I。 RUINS


1

If I had to present some particular scene as typical of the
peculiar vileness and mischief wrought by this modern warfare
that Germany has elaborated and thrust upon the world; I do not
think I should choose as my instance any of those great
architectural wrecks that seem most to impress contemporary
writers。  I have seen the injuries and ruins of the cathedrals at
Arras and Soissons and the wreckage of the great church at Saint
Eloi; I have visited the Hotel de Ville at Arras and seen
photographs of the present state of the Cloth Hall at Ypresa
building I knew very well indeed in its days of prideand I have
not been very deeply moved。  I suppose that one is a little
accustomed to Gothic ruins; and that there is always something
monumental about old buildings; it is only a question of degree
whether they are more or less tumble…down。  I was far more
desolated by the obliteration of such villages as Fricourt and
Dompierre; and by the horrible state of the fields and gardens
round about them; and my visit to Arras railway station gave me
all the sensations of coming suddenly on a newly murdered body。

Before I visited the recaptured villages in the zone of the
actual fighting; I had an idea that their evacuation was only
temporary; that as soon as the war line moved towards Germany the
people of the devastated villages would return to build their
houses and till their fields again。  But I see now that not only
are homes and villages destroyed almost beyond recognition; but
the very fields are destroyed。  They are wildernesses of shell
craters; the old worked soil is buried and great slabs of crude
earth have been flung up over it。  No ordinary plough will travel
over this frozen sea; let along that everywhere chunks of timber;
horrible tangles of rusting wire; jagged fragments of big shells;
and a great number of unexploded shells are entangled in the
mess。  Often this chaos is stained bright yellow by high
explosives; and across it run the twisting trenches and
communication trenches eight; ten; or twelve feet deep。  These
will become water pits and mud pits into which beasts will fall。
It is incredible that there should be crops from any of this
region of the push for many years to come。  There is no shade
left; the roadside trees are splintered stumps with scarcely the
spirit to put forth a leaf; a few stunted thistles and weeds are
the sole proofs that life may still go on。

The villages of this wide battle region are not ruined; they are
obliterated。  It is just possible to trace the roads in them;
because the roads have been cleared and repaired for the passing
of the guns and ammunition。  Fricourt is a tangle of German dug…
outs。  One dug…out in particular there promises to become a show
place。  It must be the masterpiece of some genius for dug…outs;
it is made as if its makers enjoyed the job; it is like the work
of some horrible badger among the vestiges of what were pleasant
human homes。  You are taken down a timbered staircase into its
warren of rooms and passages; you are shown the places under the
craters of the great British shells; where the wood splintered
but did not come in。  (But the arrival of those shells must have
been a stunning moment。) There are a series of ingenious bolting
shafts set with iron climbing bars。  In this place German
officers and soldiers have lived continually for nearly two
years。  This war is; indeed; a troglodytic propaganda。  You come
up at last at the far end into what was once a cellar of a decent
Frechman's home。

But there are stranger subterranean refuges than that at
Fricourt。  At Dompierre the German trenches skirted the cemetery;
and they turned the dead out of their vaults and made lurking
places of the tombs。  I walked with M。 Joseph Reinach about this
place; picking our way carefully amidst the mud holes and the
wire; and watched the shells bursting away over the receding
battle line to the west。  The wreckage of the graves was
Durereqsue。  And here would be a fragment of marble angle and
here a split stone with an inscription。  Splinters of coffins;
rusty iron crosses and the petals of tin flowers were trampled
into the mud; amidst the universal barbed wire。  A little
distance down the slope is a brand new cemetery; with new metal
wreaths and even a few flowers; it is a disciplined array of
uniform wooden crosses; each with its list of soldiers' names。
Unless I am wholly mistaken in France no Germans will ever get a
chance for ever more to desecrate that second cemetery as they
have done its predecessor。

We walked over the mud heaps and litter that had once been houses
towards the centre of Dompierre village; and tried to picture to
ourselves what the place had been。  Many things are recognisable
in Dompierre that have altogether vanished at Fricourt; for
instance; there are quire large triangular pieces of the church
wall upstanding at Dompierre。  And a mile away perhaps down the
hill on the road towards Amiens; the ruins of the sugar refinery
are very distinct。  A sugar refinery is an affair of big iron
receptacles and great flues and pipes and so forth; and iron does
not go down under gun fire as stone or brick does。  The whole
fabric wars rust; bent and twisted; gaping with shell holes; that
raggedest display of old iron; but it still kept its general
shape; as a smashed; battered; and sunken ironclad might do at
the bottom of the sea。

There wasn't a dog left of the former life of Dompierre。  There
was not even much war traffic that morning on the worn and muddy
road。  The guns muttered some miles away to the west; and a lark
sang。  But a little way farther on up the road was an
intermediate dressing station; rigged up with wood and
tarpaulins; and orderlies were packing two w

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