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We were now to leave the Hebrides; where we had spent some weeks
with sufficient amusement; and where we had amplified our thoughts
with new scenes of nature; and new modes of life。  More time would
have given us a more distinct view; but it was necessary that Mr。
Boswell should return before the courts of justice were opened; and
it was not proper to live too long upon hospitality; however
liberally imparted。

Of these Islands it must be confessed; that they have not many
allurements; but to the mere lover of naked nature。  The
inhabitants are thin; provisions are scarce; and desolation and
penury give little pleasure。

The people collectively considered are not few; though their
numbers are small in proportion to the space which they occupy。
Mull is said to contain six thousand; and Sky fifteen thousand。  Of
the computation respecting Mull; I can give no account; but when I
doubted the truth of the numbers attributed to Sky; one of the
Ministers exhibited such facts as conquered my incredulity。

Of the proportion; which the product of any region bears to the
people; an estimate is commonly made according to the pecuniary
price of the necessaries of life; a principle of judgment which is
never certain; because it supposes what is far from truth; that the
value of money is always the same; and so measures an unknown
quantity by an uncertain standard。  It is competent enough when the
markets of the same country; at different times; and those times
not too distant; are to be compared; but of very little use for the
purpose of making one nation acquainted with the state of another。
Provisions; though plentiful; are sold in places of great pecuniary
opulence for nominal prices; to which; however scarce; where gold
and silver are yet scarcer; they can never be raised。

In the Western Islands there is so little internal commerce; that
hardly any thing has a known or settled rate。  The price of things
brought in; or carried out; is to be considered as that of a
foreign market; and even this there is some difficulty in
discovering; because their denominations of quantity are different
from ours; and when there is ignorance on both sides; no appeal can
be made to a common measure。

This; however; is not the only impediment。  The Scots; with a
vigilance of jealousy which never goes to sleep; always suspect
that an Englishman despises them for their poverty; and to convince
him that they are not less rich than their neighbours; are sure to
tell him a price higher than the true。  When Lesley; two hundred
years ago; related so punctiliously; that a hundred hen eggs; new
laid; were sold in the Islands for a peny; he supposed that no
inference could possibly follow; but that eggs were in great
abundance。  Posterity has since grown wiser; and having learned;
that nominal and real value may differ; they now tell no such
stories; lest the foreigner should happen to collect; not that eggs
are many; but that pence are few。

Money and wealth have by the use of commercial language been so
long confounded; that they are commonly supposed to be the same;
and this prejudice has spread so widely in Scotland; that I know
not whether I found man or woman; whom I interrogated concerning
payments of money; that could surmount the illiberal desire of
deceiving me; by representing every thing as dearer than it is。

From Lochbuy we rode a very few miles to the side of Mull; which
faces Scotland; where; having taken leave of our kind protector;
Sir Allan; we embarked in a boat; in which the seat provided for
our accommodation was a heap of rough brushwood; and on the twenty…
second of October reposed at a tolerable inn on the main land。

On the next day we began our journey southwards。  The weather was
tempestuous。  For half the day the ground was rough; and our horses
were still small。  Had they required much restraint; we might have
been reduced to difficulties; for I think we had amongst us but one
bridle。  We fed the poor animals liberally; and they performed
their journey well。  In the latter part of the day; we came to a
firm and smooth road; made by the soldiers; on which we travelled
with great security; busied with contemplating the scene about us。
The night came on while we had yet a great part of the way to go;
though not so dark; but that we could discern the cataracts which
poured down the hills; on one side; and fell into one general
channel that ran with great violence on the other。  The wind was
loud; the rain was heavy; and the whistling of the blast; the fall
of the shower; the rush of the cataracts; and the roar of the
torrent; made a nobler chorus of the rough musick of nature than it
had ever been my chance to hear before。  The streams; which ran
cross the way from the hills to the main current; were so frequent;
that after a while I began to count them; and; in ten miles;
reckoned fifty…five; probably missing some; and having let some
pass before they forced themselves upon my notice。  At last we came
to Inverary; where we found an inn; not only commodious; but
magnificent。

The difficulties of peregrination were now at an end。  Mr。 Boswell
had the honour of being known to the Duke of Argyle; by whom we
were very kindly entertained at his splendid seat; and supplied
with conveniences for surveying his spacious park and rising
forests。

After two days stay at Inverary we proceeded Southward over
Glencroe; a black and dreary region; now made easily passable by a
military road; which rises from either end of the glen by an
acclivity not dangerously steep; but sufficiently laborious。  In
the middle; at the top of the hill; is a seat with this
inscription; 'Rest; and be thankful。'  Stones were placed to mark
the distances; which the inhabitants have taken away; resolved;
they said; 'to have no new miles。'

In this rainy season the hills streamed with waterfalls; which;
crossing the way; formed currents on the other side; that ran in
contrary directions as they fell to the north or south of the
summit。  Being; by the favour of the Duke; well mounted; I went up
and down the hill with great convenience。

From Glencroe we passed through a pleasant country to the banks of
Loch Lomond; and were received at the house of Sir James Colquhoun;
who is owner of almost all the thirty islands of the Loch; which we
went in a boat next morning to survey。  The heaviness of the rain
shortened our voyage; but we landed on one island planted with yew;
and stocked with deer; and on another containing perhaps not more
than half an acre; remarkable for the ruins of an old castle; on
which the osprey builds her annual nest。  Had Loch Lomond been in a
happier climate; it would have been the boast of wealth and vanity
to own one of the little spots which it incloses; and to have
employed upon it all the arts of embellishment。  But as it is; the
islets; which court the gazer at a distance; disgust him at his
approach; when he finds; instead of soft lawns; and shady thickets;
nothing more than uncultivated ruggedness。

Where the Loch discharges itself into a river; called the Leven; we
passed a night with Mr。 Smollet; a relation of Doctor Smollet; to
whose memory he has raised an obelisk on the bank near the house in
which he was born。  The civility and respect which we found at
every place; it is ungrateful to omit; and tedious to repeat。  Here
we were met by a post…chaise; that conveyed us to Glasgow。

To describe a city so much frequented as Glasgow; is unnecessary。
The prosperity of its commerce appears by the greatness of many
private houses; and a general appearance of wealth。  It is the only
episcopal city whose cathedral was left standing in the rage of
Reformation。  It is now divided into many separate places of
worship; which; taken all together; compose a great pile; that had
been some centuries in building; but was never finished; for the
change of religion intercepted its progress; before the cross isle
was added; which seems essential to a Gothick cathedral。

The college has not had a sufficient share of the increasing
magnificence of the place。  The session was begun; for it commences
on the tenth of October and continues to the tenth of June; but the
students appeared not numerous; being; I suppose; not yet returned
from their several homes。  The division of the academical year into
one session; and one recess; seems to me better accommodated to the
present state of life; than that variegation of time by terms and
vacations derived from distant centuries; in which it was probably
convenient; and still continued in the English universities。  So
many solid months as the Scotch scheme of education joins together;
allow and encourage a plan for each part of the year; but with us;
he that has settled himself to study in the college is soon tempted
into the country; and he that has adjusted his life in the country;
is summoned back to his college。

Yet when I have allowed to the universities of Scotland a more
rational distribution of time; I have given them; so far as my
inquiries have informed me; all that they can claim。  The students;
for the most part; go thither boys; and depart before they are men;
they c

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