a journey to-第33节

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irreconcilable　contrariety　things　which　they　surveyed　together；　and
which　both　undoubtedly　designed　to　show　as　they　saw　them。

When　we　had　satisfied　our　curiosity　in　the　cave；　so　far　as　our
penury　of　light　permitted　us；　we　clambered　again　to　our　boat；　and
proceeded　along　the　coast　of　Mull　to　a　headland；　called　Atun；
remarkable　for　the　columnar　form　of　the　rocks；　which　rise　in　a
series　of　pilasters；　with　a　degree　of　regularity；　which　Sir　Allan
thinks　not　less　worthy　of　curiosity　than　the　shore　of　Staffa。

Not　long　after　we　came　to　another　range　of　black　rocks；　which　had
the　appearance　of　broken　pilasters；　set　one　behind　another　to　a
great　depth。　　This　place　was　chosen　by　Sir　Allan　for　our　dinner。
We　were　easily　accommodated　with　seats；　for　the　stones　were　of　all
heights；　and　refreshed　ourselves　and　our　boatmen；　who　could　have　no
other　rest　till　we　were　at　Icolmkill。

The　evening　was　now　approaching；　and　we　were　yet　at　a　considerable
distance　from　the　end　of　our　expedition。　　We　could　therefore　stop
no　more　to　make　remarks　in　the　way；　but　set　forward　with　some
degree　of　eagerness。　　The　day　soon　failed　us；　and　the　moon
presented　a　very　solemn　and　pleasing　scene。　　The　sky　was　clear；　so
that　the　eye　commanded　a　wide　circle：　　the　sea　was　neither　still
nor　turbulent：　　the　wind　neither　silent　nor　loud。　　We　were　never
far　from　one　coast　or　another；　on　which；　if　the　weather　had　become
violent；　we　could　have　found　shelter；　and　therefore　contemplated　at
ease　the　region　through　which　we　glided　in　the　tranquillity　of　the
night；　and　saw　now　a　rock　and　now　an　island　grow　gradually
conspicuous　and　gradually　obscure。　　I　committed　the　fault　which　I
have　just　been　censuring；　in　neglecting；　as　we　passed；　to　note　the
series　of　this　placid　navigation。

We　were　very　near　an　Island；　called　Nun's　Island；　perhaps　from　an
ancient　convent。　　Here　is　said　to　have　been　dug　the　stone　that　was
used　in　the　buildings　of　Icolmkill。　　Whether　it　is　now　inhabited　we
could　not　stay　to　inquire。

At　last　we　came　to　Icolmkill；　but　found　no　convenience　for　landing。
Our　boat　could　not　be　forced　very　near　the　dry　ground；　and　our
Highlanders　carried　us　over　the　water。

We　were　now　treading　that　illustrious　Island；　which　was　once　the
luminary　of　the　Caledonian　regions；　whence　savage　clans　and　roving
barbarians　derived　the　benefits　of　knowledge；　and　the　blessings　of
religion。　　To　abstract　the　mind　from　all　local　emotion　would　be
impossible；　if　it　were　endeavoured；　and　would　be　foolish；　if　it
were　possible。　　Whatever　withdraws　us　from　the　power　of　our　senses；
whatever　makes　the　past；　the　distant；　or　the　future　predominate
over　the　present；　advances　us　in　the　dignity　of　thinking　beings。
Far　from　me　and　from　my　friends；　be　such　frigid　philosophy　as　may
conduct　us　indifferent　and　unmoved　over　any　ground　which　has　been
dignified　by　wisdom；　bravery；　or　virtue。　　That　man　is　little　to　be
envied；　whose　patriotism　would　not　gain　force　upon　the　plain　of
Marathon；　or　whose　piety　would　not　grow　warmer　among　the　ruins　of
Iona！

We　came　too　late　to　visit　monuments：　　some　care　was　necessary　for
ourselves。　　Whatever　was　in　the　Island；　Sir　Allan　could　command；
for　the　inhabitants　were　Macleans；　but　having　little　they　could　not
give　us　much。　　He　went　to　the　headman　of　the　Island；　whom　Fame；　but
Fame　delights　in　amplifying；　represents　as　worth　no　less　than　fifty
pounds。　　He　was　perhaps　proud　enough　of　his　guests；　but　ill
prepared　for　our　entertainment；　however；　he　soon　produced　more
provision　than　men　not　luxurious　require。　　Our　lodging　was　next　to
be　provided。　　We　found　a　barn　well　stocked　with　hay；　and　made　our
beds　as　soft　as　we　could。

In　the　morning　we　rose　and　surveyed　the　place。　　The　churches　of　the
two　convents　are　both　standing；　though　unroofed。　　They　were　built
of　unhewn　stone；　but　solid；　and　not　inelegant。　　I　brought　away　rude
measures　of　the　buildings；　such　as　I　cannot　much　trust　myself；
inaccurately　taken；　and　obscurely　noted。　　Mr。　Pennant's
delineations；　which　are　doubtless　exact；　have　made　my　unskilful
description　less　necessary。

The　episcopal　church　consists　of　two　parts；　separated　by　the
belfry；　and　built　at　different　times。　　The　original　church　had；
like　others；　the　altar　at　one　end；　and　tower　at　the　other：　　but　as
it　grew　too　small；　another　building　of　equal　dimension　was　added；
and　the　tower　then　was　necessarily　in　the　middle。

That　these　edifices　are　of　different　ages　seems　evident。　　The　arch
of　the　first　church　is　Roman；　being　part　of　a　circle；　that　of　the
additional　building　is　pointed；　and　therefore　Gothick；　or
Saracenical；　the　tower　is　firm；　and　wants　only　to　be　floored　and
covered。

Of　the　chambers　or　cells　belonging　to　the　monks；　there　are　some
walls　remaining；　but　nothing　approaching　to　a　complete　apartment。

The　bottom　of　the　church　is　so　incumbered　with　mud　and　rubbish；
that　we　could　make　no　discoveries　of　curious　inscriptions；　and　what
there　are　have　been　already　published。　　The　place　is　said　to　be
known　where　the　black　stones　lie　concealed；　on　which　the　old
Highland　Chiefs；　when　they　made　contracts　and　alliances；　used　to
take　the　oath；　which　was　considered　as　more　sacred　than　any　other
obligation；　and　which　could　not　be　violated　without　the　blackest
infamy。　　In　those　days　of　violence　and　rapine；　it　was　of　great
importance　to　impress　upon　savage　minds　the　sanctity　of　an　oath；　by
some　particular　and　extraordinary　circumstances。　　They　would　not
have　recourse　to　the　black　stones；　upon　small　or　common　occasions；
and　when　they　had　established　their　faith　by　this　tremendous
sanction；　inconstancy　and　treachery　were　no　longer　feared。

The　chapel　of　the　nunnery　is　now　used　by　the　inhabitants　as　a　kind
of　general　cow…house；　and　the　bottom　is　consequently　too　miry　for
examination。　　Some　of　the　stones　which　covered　the　later　abbesses
have　inscriptions；　which　might　yet　be　read；　if　the　chapel　were
cleansed。　　The　roof　of　this；　as　of　all　the　other　buildings；　is
totally　destroyed；　not　only　because　timber　quickly　decays　when　it
is　neglected；　but　because　in　an　island　utterly　destitute　of　wood；
it　was　wanted　for　use；　and　was　consequently　the　first　plunder　of
needy　rapacity。

The　chancel　of　the　nuns'　chapel　is　covered　with　an　arch　of　stone；
to　which　time　has　done　no　injury；　and　a　small　apartment
communicating　with　the　choir；　on　the　north　side；　like　the　chapter…
house　in　cathedrals；　roofed　with　stone　in　the　same　manner；　is
likewise　entire。

In　one　of　the　churches　was　a　marble　altar；　which　the　superstition
of　the　inhabitants　has　destroyed。　　Their　opinion　was；　that　a
fragment　of　this　stone　was　a　defence　against　shipwrecks；　fire；　and
miscarriages。　　In　one　corner　of　the　church　the　bason　for　holy　water
is　yet　unbroken。

The　cemetery　of　the　nunnery　was；　till　very　lately；　regarded　with
such　reverence；　that　only　women　were　buried　in　it。　　These　reliques
of　veneration　always　produce　some　mournful　pleasure。　　I　could　have
forgiven　a　great　injury　more　easily　than　the　violation　of　this
imaginary　sanctity。

South　of　the　chapel　stand　the　walls　of　a　large　room；　which　was
probably　the　hall；　or　refectory　of　the　nunnery。　　This　apartment　is
capable　of　repair。　　Of　the　rest　of　the　convent　there　are　only
fragments。

Besides　the　two　principal　churches；　there　are；　I　think；　five
chapels　yet　standing；　and　three　more　remembered。　　There　are　also
crosses；　of　which　two　bear　the　names　of　St。　John　and　St。　Matthew。

A　large　space　of　ground　about　these　consecrated　edifices　is　covered
with　gravestones；　few　of　which　have　any　inscription。　　He　that
surveys　it；　attended　by　an　insular　antiquary；　may　be　told　where　the
Kings　of　many　nations　are　buried；　and　if　he　loves　to　sooth　his
imagination　with　the　thoughts　that　naturally　rise　in　places　where
the　great　and　the　powerful　lie　mingled　with　the　dust；　let　him
listen　in　submissive　silence；　for　if　he　asks　any　questions；　his
delight　is　at　an　end。

Iona　has　long　enjoyed；　without　any　very　credible　attestation；　the
honour　of　being　reputed　the　cemetery　of　the　Scottish　Kings。　　It　is
not　unlikely；　that；　when　the　opinion　of　local　sanctity　was
prevalent；　the　Chieftains　of　the　Isles；　and　perhaps　some　of　the
Norwegian　or　Irish　princes　were　reposited　in　this　venerable
enclosure。　　But　by　whom　the　subterraneous　vaults　are　peopled　is　now
utterly　unknown。　　The　graves　are　very　numerous；　and　some　of　them
undoubtedly　contain　the　remains　of　men；　who　did　not　expect　to　be　so
soon　forgotten。

Not　far　from　this　awful　ground；　may　be　traced　the　garden　of　the
monastery：　　the　fishponds　are　yet　discernible；　and　the　aqueduct；
which　supplied　them；　is　still　in　use。

There　remains　a　broken　building；　which　is　called　the　Bishop's
house；　I　know　not　by　what　authority。　　It　was　once　the　residence　of
some　man　above　the　common　rank；　for　it　has　two　stories　and　a
chimney。　　We　were　shewn　a　chimney　at　the　other　end；　which　was　only
a　nich；　without　perforation；　but　so　much　does　antiquarian
credulity；　or　patriotick　vanity　prevail；　that　it　was　not　much　more
safe　to　trust　the　eye　of　our　instructor　than　the　memory。

There　is　in　the　Island　one　house　more；　and　only　one；　that　has　a
chimney：　　we　entered　it；　and　found　it　neither　wanting　repair　nor
inhabitants；　but　to　the　farmers；