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the head of Loch Ness; near the place where Fort Augustus now
stands; in which Lochiel obtained the victory; and Maclean; with
his followers; was defeated and destroyed。

The lady fell into the hands of the conquerours; and being found
pregnant was placed in the custody of Maclonich; one of a tribe or
family branched from Cameron; with orders; if she brought a boy; to
destroy him; if a girl; to spare her。

Maclonich's wife; who was with child likewise; had a girl about the
same time at which lady Maclean brought a boy; and Maclonich with
more generosity to his captive; than fidelity to his trust;
contrived that the children should be changed。

Maclean being thus preserved from death; in time recovered his
original patrimony; and in gratitude to his friend; made his castle
a place of refuge to any of the clan that should think himself in
danger; and; as a proof of reciprocal confidence; Maclean took upon
himself and his posterity the care of educating the heir of
Maclonich。

This story; like all other traditions of the Highlands; is
variously related; but though some circumstances are uncertain; the
principal fact is true。  Maclean undoubtedly owed his preservation
to Maclonich; for the treaty between the two families has been
strictly observed:  it did not sink into disuse and oblivion; but
continued in its full force while the chieftains retained their
power。  I have read a demand of protection; made not more than
thirty…seven years ago; for one of the Maclonichs; named Ewen
Cameron; who had been accessory to the death of Macmartin; and had
been banished by Lochiel; his lord; for a certain term; at the
expiration of which he returned married from France; but the
Macmartins; not satisfied with the punishment; when he attempted to
settle; still threatened him with vengeance。  He therefore asked;
and obtained shelter in the Isle of Col。

The power of protection subsists no longer; but what the law
permits is yet continued; and Maclean of Col now educates the heir
of Maclonich。

There still remains in the Islands; though it is passing fast away;
the custom of fosterage。  A Laird; a man of wealth and eminence;
sends his child; either male or female; to a tacksman; or tenant;
to be fostered。  It is not always his own tenant; but some distant
friend that obtains this honour; for an honour such a trust is very
reasonably thought。  The terms of fosterage seem to vary in
different islands。  In Mull; the father sends with his child a
certain number of cows; to which the same number is added by the
fosterer。  The father appropriates a proportionable extent of
ground; without rent; for their pasturage。  If every cow brings a
calf; half belongs to the fosterer; and half to the child; but if
there be only one calf between two cows; it is the child's; and
when the child returns to the parent; it is accompanied by all the
cows given; both by the father and by the fosterer; with half of
the increase of the stock by propagation。  These beasts are
considered as a portion; and called Macalive cattle; of which the
father has the produce; but is supposed not to have the full
property; but to owe the same number to the child; as a portion to
the daughter; or a stock for the son。

Children continue with the fosterer perhaps six years; and cannot;
where this is the practice; be considered as burdensome。  The
fosterer; if he gives four cows; receives likewise four; and has;
while the child continues with him; grass for eight without rent;
with half the calves; and all the milk; for which he pays only four
cows when he dismisses his Dalt; for that is the name for a foster
child。

Fosterage is; I believe; sometimes performed upon more liberal
terms。  Our friend; the young Laird of Col; was fostered by
Macsweyn of Grissipol。  Macsweyn then lived a tenant to Sir James
Macdonald in the Isle of Sky; and therefore Col; whether he sent
him cattle or not; could grant him no land。  The Dalt; however; at
his return; brought back a considerable number of Macalive cattle;
and of the friendship so formed there have been good effects。  When
Macdonald raised his rents; Macsweyn was; like other tenants;
discontented; and; resigning his farm; removed from Sky to Col; and
was established at Grissipol。

These observations we made by favour of the contrary wind that
drove us to Col; an Island not often visited; for there is not much
to amuse curiosity; or to attract avarice。

The ground has been hitherto; I believe; used chiefly for
pasturage。  In a district; such as the eye can command; there is a
general herdsman; who knows all the cattle of the neighbourhood;
and whose station is upon a hill; from which he surveys the lower
grounds; and if one man's cattle invade another's grass; drives
them back to their own borders。  But other means of profit begin to
be found; kelp is gathered and burnt; and sloops are loaded with
the concreted ashes。  Cultivation is likely to be improved by the
skill and encouragement of the present heir; and the inhabitants of
those obscure vallies will partake of the general progress of life。

The rents of the parts which belong to the Duke of Argyle; have
been raised from fifty…five to one hundred and five pounds; whether
from the land or the sea I cannot tell。  The bounties of the sea
have lately been so great; that a farm in Southuist has risen in
ten years from a rent of thirty pounds to one hundred and eighty。

He who lives in Col; and finds himself condemned to solitary meals;
and incommunicable reflection; will find the usefulness of that
middle order of Tacksmen; which some who applaud their own wisdom
are wishing to destroy。  Without intelligence man is not social; he
is only gregarious; and little intelligence will there be; where
all are constrained to daily labour; and every mind must wait upon
the hand。

After having listened for some days to the tempest; and wandered
about the Island till our curiosity was satisfied; we began to
think about our departure。  To leave Col in October was not very
easy。  We however found a sloop which lay on the coast to carry
kelp; and for a price which we thought levied upon our necessities;
the master agreed to carry us to Mull; whence we might readily pass
back to Scotland。



MULL



As we were to catch the first favourable breath; we spent the night
not very elegantly nor pleasantly in the vessel; and were landed
next day at Tobor Morar; a port in Mull; which appears to an
unexperienced eye formed for the security of ships; for its mouth
is closed by a small island; which admits them through narrow
channels into a bason sufficiently capacious。  They are indeed safe
from the sea; but there is a hollow between the mountains; through
which the wind issues from the land with very mischievous violence。

There was no danger while we were there; and we found several other
vessels at anchor; so that the port had a very commercial
appearance。

The young Laird of Col; who had determined not to let us lose his
company; while there was any difficulty remaining; came over with
us。  His influence soon appeared; for he procured us horses; and
conducted us to the house of Doctor Maclean; where we found very
kind entertainment; and very pleasing conversation。  Miss Maclean;
who was born; and had been bred at Glasgow; having removed with her
father to Mull; added to other qualifications; a great knowledge of
the Earse language; which she had not learned in her childhood; but
gained by study; and was the only interpreter of Earse poetry that
I could ever find。

The Isle of Mull is perhaps in extent the third of the Hebrides。
It is not broken by waters; nor shot into promontories; but is a
solid and compact mass; of breadth nearly equal to its length。  Of
the dimensions of the larger Islands; there is no knowledge
approaching to exactness。  I am willing to estimate it as
containing about three hundred square miles。

Mull had suffered like Sky by the black winter of seventy…one; in
which; contrary to all experience; a continued frost detained the
snow eight weeks upon the ground。  Against a calamity never known;
no provision had been made; and the people could only pine in
helpless misery。  One tenant was mentioned; whose cattle perished
to the value of three hundred pounds; a loss which probably more
than the life of man is necessary to repair。  In countries like
these; the descriptions of famine become intelligible。  Where by
vigorous and artful cultivation of a soil naturally fertile; there
is commonly a superfluous growth both of grain and grass; where the
fields are crowded with cattle; and where every hand is able to
attract wealth from a distance; by making something that promotes
ease; or gratifies vanity; a dear year produces only a comparative
want; which is rather seen than felt; and which terminates commonly
in no worse effect; than that of condemning the lower orders of the
community to sacrifice a little luxury to convenience; or at most a
little convenience to necessity。

But where the climate is unkind; and the ground penurious; so that
the most fruitful years will produce only enough to maintain
themselves; where life unimproved; and unadorned; 

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