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第28节

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the sand from the shore over a considerable part of the land; and
it is said still to encroach and destroy more and more pasture; but
I am not of opinion; that by any surveys or landmarks; its limits
have been ever fixed; or its progression ascertained。  If one man
has confidence enough to say; that it advances; nobody can bring
any proof to support him in denying it。  The reason why it is not
spread to a greater extent; seems to be; that the wind and rain
come almost together; and that it is made close and heavy by the
wet before the storms can put it in motion。  So thick is the bed;
and so small the particles; that if a traveller should be caught by
a sudden gust in dry weather; he would find it very difficult to
escape with life。

For natural curiosities; I was shown only two great masses of
stone; which lie loose upon the ground; one on the top of a hill;
and the other at a small distance from the bottom。  They certainly
were never put into their present places by human strength or
skill; and though an earthquake might have broken off the lower
stone; and rolled it into the valley; no account can be given of
the other; which lies on the hill; unless; which I forgot to
examine; there be still near it some higher rock; from which it
might be torn。  All nations have a tradition; that their earliest
ancestors were giants; and these stones are said to have been
thrown up and down by a giant and his mistress。  There are so many
more important things; of which human knowledge can give no
account; that it may be forgiven us; if we speculate no longer on
two stones in Col。

This Island is very populous。  About nine…and…twenty years ago; the
fencible men of Col were reckoned one hundred and forty; which is
the sixth of eight hundred and forty; and probably some contrived
to be left out of the list。  The Minister told us; that a few years
ago the inhabitants were eight hundred; between the ages of seven
and of seventy。  Round numbers are seldom exact。  But in this case
the authority is good; and the errour likely to be little。  If to
the eight hundred be added what the laws of computation require;
they will be increased to at least a thousand; and if the
dimensions of the country have been accurately related; every mile
maintains more than twenty…five。

This proportion of habitation is greater than the appearance of the
country seems to admit; for wherever the eye wanders; it sees much
waste and little cultivation。  I am more inclined to extend the
land; of which no measure has ever been taken; than to diminish the
people; who have been really numbered。  Let it be supposed; that a
computed mile contains a mile and a half; as was commonly found
true in the mensuration of the English roads; and we shall then
allot nearly twelve to a mile; which agrees much better with ocular
observation。

Here; as in Sky; and other Islands; are the Laird; the Tacksmen;
and the under tenants。

Mr。 Maclean; the Laird; has very extensive possessions; being
proprietor; not only of far the greater part of Col; but of the
extensive Island of Rum; and a very considerable territory in Mull。

Rum is one of the larger Islands; almost square; and therefore of
great capacity in proportion to its sides。  By the usual method of
estimating computed extent; it may contain more than a hundred and
twenty square miles。

It originally belonged to Clanronald; and was purchased by Col;
who; in some dispute about the bargain; made Clanronald prisoner;
and kept him nine months in confinement。  Its owner represents it
as mountainous; rugged; and barren。  In the hills there are red
deer。  The horses are very small; but of a breed eminent for
beauty。  Col; not long ago; bought one of them from a tenant; who
told him; that as he was of a shape uncommonly elegant; he could
not sell him but at a high price; and that whoever had him should
pay a guinea and a half。

There are said to be in Barra a race of horses yet smaller; of
which the highest is not above thirty…six inches。

The rent of Rum is not great。  Mr。 Maclean declared; that he should
be very rich; if he could set his land at two…pence halfpenny an
acre。  The inhabitants are fifty…eight families; who continued
Papists for some time after the Laird became a Protestant。  Their
adherence to their old religion was strengthened by the countenance
of the Laird's sister; a zealous Romanist; till one Sunday; as they
were going to mass under the conduct of their patroness; Maclean
met them on the way; gave one of them a blow on the head with a
yellow stick; I suppose a cane; for which the Earse had no name;
and drove them to the kirk; from which they have never since
departed。  Since the use of this method of conversion; the
inhabitants of Egg and Canna; who continue Papists; call the
Protestantism of Rum; the religion of the Yellow Stick。

The only Popish Islands are Egg and Canna。  Egg is the principal
Island of a parish; in which; though he has no congregation; the
Protestant Minister resides。  I have heard of nothing curious in
it; but the cave in which a former generation of the Islanders were
smothered by Macleod。

If we had travelled with more leisure; it had not been fit to have
neglected the Popish Islands。  Popery is favourable to ceremony;
and among ignorant nations; ceremony is the only preservative of
tradition。  Since protestantism was extended to the savage parts of
Scotland; it has perhaps been one of the chief labours of the
Ministers to abolish stated observances; because they continued the
remembrance of the former religion。  We therefore who came to hear
old traditions; and see antiquated manners; should probably have
found them amongst the Papists。

Canna; the other Popish Island; belongs to Clanronald。  It is said
not to comprise more than twelve miles of land; and yet maintains
as many inhabitants as Rum。

We were at Col under the protection of the young Laird; without any
of the distresses; which Mr。 Pennant; in a fit of simple credulity;
seems to think almost worthy of an elegy by Ossian。  Wherever we
roved; we were pleased to see the reverence with which his subjects
regarded him。  He did not endeavour to dazzle them by any
magnificence of dress:  his only distinction was a feather in his
bonnet; but as soon as he appeared; they forsook their work and
clustered about him:  he took them by the hand; and they seemed
mutually delighted。  He has the proper disposition of a Chieftain;
and seems desirous to continue the customs of his house。  The
bagpiper played regularly; when dinner was served; whose person and
dress made a good appearance; and he brought no disgrace upon the
family of Rankin; which has long supplied the Lairds of Col with
hereditary musick。

The Tacksmen of Col seem to live with less dignity and convenience
than those of Sky; where they had good houses; and tables not only
plentiful; but delicate。  In Col only two houses pay the window
tax; for only two have six windows; which; I suppose; are the
Laird's and Mr。 Macsweyn's。

The rents have; till within seven years; been paid in kind; but the
tenants finding that cattle and corn varied in their price; desired
for the future to give their landlord money; which; not having yet
arrived at the philosophy of commerce; they consider as being every
year of the same value。

We were told of a particular mode of under…tenure。  The Tacksman
admits some of his inferior neighbours to the cultivation of his
grounds; on condition that performing all the work; and giving a
third part of the seed; they shall keep a certain number of cows;
sheep; and goats; and reap a third part of the harvest。  Thus by
less than the tillage of two acres they pay the rent of one。

There are tenants below the rank of Tacksmen; that have got smaller
tenants under them; for in every place; where money is not the
general equivalent; there must be some whose labour is immediately
paid by daily food。

A country that has no money; is by no means convenient for beggars;
both because such countries are commonly poor; and because charity
requires some trouble and some thought。  A penny is easily given
upon the first impulse of compassion; or impatience of importunity;
but few will deliberately search their cupboards or their granaries
to find out something to give。  A penny is likewise easily spent;
but victuals; if they are unprepared; require houseroom; and fire;
and utensils; which the beggar knows not where to find。

Yet beggars there sometimes are; who wander from Island to Island。
We had; in our passage to Mull; the company of a woman and her
child; who had exhausted the charity of Col。  The arrival of a
beggar on an Island is accounted a sinistrous event。  Every body
considers that he shall have the less for what he gives away。
Their alms; I believe; is generally oatmeal。

Near to Col is another Island called Tireye; eminent for its
fertility。  Though it has but half the extent of Rum; it is so well
peopled; that there have appeared; not long ago; nine hundred and
fourteen at a funeral。  The plenty of this Island enticed beggars
to it; who seemed so burdensome to the inhabitants; that a formal
compact was drawn up; by which the

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